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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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Hiotograjiikc 

Sdences 

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33  Witt  MAIN  STRUT 

WltSTRRN.Y.  MSIO 

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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  instituta  for  Historical  IVIicroraproductiont  /  inttitut  Canadian  da  microraprodiictions  hiatoriquaa 


. 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


D 
D 


D 


D 
D 


D 


D 


Couverture  endommag6e 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaur^e  et/ou  pellicul6e 


Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


I      I    Coloured  maps/ 


Cartes  giographiquas  en  couleur 

Coloured  ink  (I.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bieue  ou  noire) 


□    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
Relii  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  serrie  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intArieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  aJoutAes 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  taxte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  italt  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6xi  filmAes. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppl6mentaires; 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
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point  de  vue  bibliographique.  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  m^thode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiqu6s  ci-dessous. 


□    Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 


TIM 

to  tl 


n 


n/ 


D 
0 


D 


Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagdes 

Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurdes  et/ou  pellicul6es 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  d6color6es,  tachet^es  ou  piqudes 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  ddtach^es 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 


The 
posi 
of  tl 
film 


Ori| 

beg 

the 

sion 

oth< 

first 

sior 

oril 


I      I    Quality  of  print  varies/ 


Quality  inigale  de  I'impresslon 

Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  supplimentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


The 
shal 
TIN 
whi 

Mai 
diff( 
anti 
beg 
righ 
reqi 
met 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  ref limed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  Image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etr.,  ont  AtA  fllm^es  &  nouveau  de  fapon  A 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  Item  Is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ca  document  est  film*  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu*  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


2 


12X 


16X 


20X 


26X 


30X 


24X 


28X 


3 


MX 


ler 
» 

le 


Th«  copy  filmed  har*  hat  baan  raproducad  thanks 
to  tha  ganarotity  of: 

Library  Oiviiion 

Provincial  Archives  of  British  Columbia 

Tha  imagaa  appaaring  hara  ara  tha  bast  quality 
possibia  considaring  tha  condition  and  legibility 
of  tha  origir:.(  copy  and  in  kaaping  with  tha 
filming  contract  spacif ications. 


L'axamplaira  film*  fut  raproduit  grAca  k  la 
gAnArosit*  da: 

Library  Division 

Provincial  Archives  of  British  Columbia 

Las  imagas  suivantas  ont  AtA  raproduitas  avac  ia 
plus  grand  soin.  compta  tanu  da  la  condition  at 
da  la  nattatA  da  l'axamplaira  filmA.  at  an 
conformitA  avac  las  conditions  du  contrat  da 
filmaga. 


Original  copias  in  printad  papar  covars  ara  filmad 
beginning  with  tha  front  covar  and  anding  on 
tha  last  paga  with  a  printad  or  illustratad  impras- 
sion.  or  tha  back  covar  whan  appropriate.  All 
othar  original  copias  ara  filmad  haginning  on  tha 
first  paga  with  a  printad  or  illustratad  impres- 
sion, and  anding  on  the  last  paga  with  a  printad 
or  illustreted  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shell  contein  the  symbol  — i^-  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  Imeening  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Les  exempleires  originaux  dont  Is  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimAe  sent  filmAs  en  commen^ent 
par  le  premier  plat  at  an  terminant  soit  par  la 
darnlAre  pege  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  salon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exempleires 
originaux  sont  filmAs  en  commen^ant  par  la 
premiAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  at  un  terminent  par 
la  darniAre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
darniAre  imege  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  la  symbols  -^  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbols  ▼  signifie  "FIN  ". 


IMeps.  pistes,  charts,  etc.,  mey  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  retios.  Those  too  isrge  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  ere  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hend  corner,  left  to 
right  end  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc..  peuvent  Atre 
filmAs  A  des  teux  de  rAduction  diffArents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grend  pour  Atre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichA,  il  est  filmA  A  pertir 
de  Tengle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bes,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'imeges  nAcesseire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  le  mAthode. 


ire, 


] 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

1^ 


o 


]^ 


I 


MONTANA  AS  IT  IS; 


BEINa 


i  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF  ITS  RESOURCES, 

BOTH  MINERAL  AND  AGRICULTUBAl, 

INCLUDING  A 

COMPLETE  DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  FACE  OF  THE 
COUNTRY,  ITS  CLIMATE,  ETC., 

IIXUSTHATED  WITH  A 

M^3?  OF  THE  TERRITORY, 

DRAWN  BY  CAPT.  W.  W.  DE  LACY, 

SHOWING  THE  DIFFERENT  ROADS  AND  THE  LOCATION  OF 
THE  DIFFERENT  MINING  DISTRICTS. 

TO  WHICH  13  APPENDED, 

A    COMPLETE    DICTIONARY 

0»      • 

THE  SNAKE  LANO-UAGE, 

AND  ALSO  OF  THiS 

FAMOUS    CHINNOOK   JARGON, 

WITH 

NUMEROUS  CRITICAL  AND  EXPLANATORY  NOTES, 

CONCERNING  TUE   HABITS,   SUPERSTITIONS,   ETC.,   OP 

THESE  INDIANS, 

WITH 

ITINEllAllIES  OF  ALL  THE  llOUTES  ACROSS  THE  PLAINS. 


BY  G-RANVILLE  STUART. 


C.    B.    WESTCOTT    k.    CO.,    PRINTERS, 

No.    70    JOHN    8TRRET. 


•  * 


r 


\    >♦    •»%%  1N\     ,\ 


Entorod  according  to  the  act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1865, 

By  WIUJAM  S.  EATON, 

In  tlio  Clflik's  (ifiico  of  the  District  Court  of  tlio  United  Stfttwi  for  the  Soiilhorn  District  of 

Now  York. 


PKEFACE. 


rict  of 


It  was  originally  my  intention  to  have  given  a  general 
description    of  the    form,    climate,    resources,  &c.,  of  the 
vast  region  over  which   the  Snake  language  is  talked,  in 
the  form  of  notes  to  a  dictionary  of  that  language,  a  plan 
that,  as  will  ho  seen,  I  had  partially  carried  out,  when 
my  attention  and  time  hecame  too  much  occupied  hy  other 
affairs  to  enahlo  me  to  devote  myself  to  it  as  I  wished  to, 
and  many  parts  of  it  that  I  had  travelled  over  in  days 
gone  by,  have  since  that  time  been  developed  in  a  most 
unexpected  and  extraordinary   manner,  proving  incredibly 
rich  in   the   precious   minerals.     So   that  a  description   of 
those  parts  of  the  Snake  country,  as  they  appeared  to  me 
then,  would  bear  but  a  slight  resemblance  to  their  present 
condition,  and  besides,  my  descriptions  of  portions  of  Mon- 
tana,  information  regarding  which   is  now  eagerly  sought 
for,  were  so  scattered  about  through  these  notes  that  they 
were  in  a  very  unsatisfactory  shape  for  those  seeking  in- 
formation in  regard  to  it.     These  considerations  have  de- 
termined me  to  write  a  few  pages  describing  in  detail  that 
part  of  my  old  "  stamping  ground,"  now  known  ns  "  Mon- 
tana t('rritoi7,"  and  if  there  shoi'ld  be  some  repetition  of 
things  already  described  in  the  notes,  I  hope  my  readers 


4 


PREFACE. 


(if  I  should  be  so  fortunate  as  to  have  any)  will  pardon 
me,  as  they  are  necessary  to  render  this  last  description 
intelligible.  And  now,  in  conclusion,  if  this  slight  treatise 
on  "  Our  Country  "  should  meet  with  the  approval  of  the 
"  ancients  in  the  laud,"  or  even  of  that  much-abused  class 
known  as  "  pilgrims,"  I  shall  have  had  my  reward.  And 
hoping  that  each  and  every  reader  of  this  "magnifi- 
cent work,"  as  John  Phoenix  would  say,  may  live  a  thou- 
sand years  and  own  numerous  "feet"  in  every  rich  silver 
lead  in  Montana,  I  subscribe  myself. 

Hopefully  yours, 

Granville  Stuart. 

Virginia  City,  Jan.  31,  1865. 


on 
on 
ise 
the 
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ncl 
ifi- 
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ver 


4 


TANA  AS  IT  IS. 


The  name  "  Montana,"  properly  belongs  to  a  certain  part  of 
Spain,  and  means  "  mountainous,"  a  name  that  is  applicable 
to  the  country  for  a  wonder.  Still,  I  think  that  the  Snake 
Indian  name  of  "  To'yabe-Shock'up,"  or  "  The  country  of  the 
mountains,"  would  have  been  more  approjjriate,  for  some 
parts  of  Montana  have  been  the  home  of  these  Indians  from 
a  time  far  anterior  to  the  discovery  of  America. 

Montana  consists  of  a  series  of  basins,  five  in  number,  of 
which  four  lie  on  the  east  side  of  the  Rocky  mountains  and 
one  on  the  west.  These  basins  are  generally  subdivided  into  a 
number  of  valleys  by  spurs  of  mountains  jutting  down  from 
the  main  chain  of  the  Rocky  mountains.  These  spurs  are  often 
of  great  height,  frequently  exceeding  that  of  the  main  chain, 
but  there  are  many  low  passes  among  them,  thus  connecting 
the  valleys  with  each  other  by  low  gaps  that  are  passable  at 
all  times  of  the  year. 

The  basin  west  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  in  the  north- 
western corner  of  the  territory,  is  drained  by  the  Missoula  and 
Flat-Head  rivers,  and  their  branches,  the  last  named  being 
the  outlet  of  the  Flat-Head  lake,  a  bt>autiful  sheet  of  water 
about  forty  miles  long  by  twenty  wide,  which  lies  at  the  foot 
of  the  Rocky  mountains,  near  the  northern  end  of  the  basin, 
and  not  far  from  the  line  of  British  Columbia. 

This  lake  is  surrounded  by  some  beautiful  country,  a  por- 
tion of  which  is  valuable  in  an  agricultural  point  of  view. 
From  the  lake  there  extends  south  along  the  foot  of  the 
Rocky  mountains  to  the  "  Pen  d'Oreille"  mission,  a  distance 
of  over  fifty  miles,  a  well- wooded,  gently-rolling  country, 
clothed  with  a  good  growth  of  grass,  a  large  proportion 
of   it    being    excellent    farming  laud.      Then   leaving  the 


6 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


mission  and  crossing  a  range  of  hills  to  the  south  you 
enter  the  vuUey  of  the  Jocko,  which  is  small,  hut  in  beauty 
and  fertility  it  is  unsurpassed.  Here  is  located  the  reserve 
of  the  Pen  d'Oieille  Indians.  Then  crossing  by  an  easy  pass, 
over  the  lofty  spur  of  mountains  running  down  from  the 
main  chain  between  the  Jocko  and  Hellgate  nvers,  you  enter 
the  lovely  valley  of  the  "  Hellgate,"  which  is  about  twenty- 
five  miles  long  Avith  an  average  breadth  of  about  six  miles.  It 
is  almost  all  good  farming  land  with  a  good  growth  of  bunch 
grass,  and  it  is  enough  to  make  a  man  from  the  piairies  of 
Iowa  or  Illinois  cry  to  see  the  good  pine  timber  that  is  going 
to  waste  here. 

Here  comes  in  from  the  south  the  river  and  valley  of  the 
"  Bittcr-Koot,"  a  lovely  and  fertile  region,  extending  south 
about  sixty  miles,  with  an  average  breadth  of  seven  or  eight 
miles.  In  this  valley  is  situated  Fort  Owen,  surrounded  by 
a  thriving  settlement.  This  fort  is  not,  nor  ever  was  a 
government  fort.  It  was  established  in  '51  or  '52,  by  the 
untiring  energy  and  perseverance  of  Mr.  John  Owen,  for  the 
purpose  of  trading  with  the  Indians,  and  it  is  at  present  the 
best  building  in  Montana. 

The  volleys  of  the  Bitter-Root  and  Hellgate  contain  many 
settlers,  whose  number  is  rapidly  increasing.  The  Missoula 
river  is  formed  by  the  junction  of  the  Hellgate  and  Bitter- 
Root. 

These  valleys  are  bounded  on  the  west  by  the  Bitter-Root 
mountains,  which  are  very  lofty,  snow  lying  on  many  of  the 
peaks  during  the  entire  year.  These  mountains  cover  an  ex- 
tent of  country  about  seventy-five  miles  wide,  reaching  to  the 
valley  of  Snake  river  in  Idaho,  and  about  two  hundred  miles  in 
length,  forming  a  howling  wilderness  of  yawning  canons  and 
huge  mountains,  covered  with  a  heavy  growth  of  pine  and 
fir  timber,  and  aifording  a  home  to  a  few  elk  and  large  num- 
bers of  grouse,  but  of  no  earthly  use  for  anything  but  the 
mineral  wealth  they  contain,  which  is  very  great,  as  is  proven 
by  Florence  City,  Elk  City,  Oro  Fino,  and  many  other  places 
of  less  note. 


MONTANA      AS     IT     IS 


I 


« 


Leaving;  the  Hellgate  valley,  and  going  up  the  Hellgate 
river,  which  comes  from  the  southeast,  we  enter  Hellgate 
canon — which  I  have  described  elsewhere — and  in  a  short 
distance  we  reach  the  mouth  of  "  Big  Blackfoot  river." 
Coming  in  from  the  east,  it  runs  through  a  canon  for  some 
fifteen  miles  above  its  mouth,  above  which  it  opens  out  into 
a  largo  and  beautiful  valley,  well  timbered  and  watered, 
forming  a  good  grazing  region,  and,  most  probably,  farming 
also,  but  it  has  never  been  tried.  Then,  going  up  Hellgate 
canon  f  )rty  miles,  we  emerge  into  the  rolling  grassy  hills 
which  reach  twelve  miles  to  the  valley  of  Flint  creek,  a 
beautiful  place,  well  calculated  for  grazing  and  farming. 
Thence  up  the  Hellgate  river,  through  much  good  farming 
land,  bordered  by  rolling  grassy  country,  twenty  miles  to  the 
lower  end  of  Deer  Lodge  valley,  passing  by  "  Gold  creek," 
where  are  the  first  gold  mines  ever  found  and  worked  in  what 
is  now  "  IMontana."  These  mines  were  discovered  in  the  fol- 
lowing manner  : 

About  the  year  1852,  a  French  half-breed  from  Red  river 
of  the  north,  named  Francois  Finlay,  but  commonly  known 
by  the  sobriquet  of  "  Benetsee,"  who  had  been  to  California, 
began  to  "  prospect"  c  a  branch  of  the  Hellgate,  now  known 
as  Gold  creek.  He  found  small  quantities  of  light  float 
gold  in  the  surface  along  this  stream,  but  not  in  sufficient 
abundance  to  pay.  This  became  noised  about  among  the 
mountaineers  ;  and  when  Reese  Anderson,  my  brotlier  James, 
and  I,  w(>re  delayed  by  sickness  at  the  licad  of  Malad  creek, 
on  the  Hu(ls[)etlis  cnt-off,  as  we  were  on  our  way  from  Cali- 
f )rniii  to  the  states  in  the  summer  of  1857,  we  saw  some 
men  who  had  passed  "  Benetsee's  creek,"  as  it  was  then 
called,  in  1856,  and  they  said  they  had  got  good  pros- 
pects there,  and  as  we  had  an  inclination  to  see  a  little 
mountain  life,  we  concluded  to  go  out  to  that  region, 
and  winter,  and  look  around  a  little.  We  accordingly  win- 
tered on  Big-Hole,  just  above  the  "Backbone,"  in  com- 
pany with  Robert  Dempsey,  Jake  Meeks,  and  others  ;  and 
in  the  spring  of  1858,   wo  went  over  to  Deer  Lodge  and 


8 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS 


prospected  a  little  on  "  Benctsee's  creek ;"  but  not  having  any 
"  grub"  or  tools  to  work  with,  we  soon  quit  in  disgiust,  with- 
out having  found  anything  that  would  pay,  or  done  enough  to 
enable  us  to  form  a  reliable  estimate  of  the  richness  of  this 
vicinity.  We  then  went  back  to  the  Emigrant  road,  and  re- 
mained there  trading  with  the  emigrants  over  two  years, 
very  frequently  talking  of  the  probability  of  there  being  good 
mines  in  Deer  Lodge,  until  in  the  fall  of  1860,  we  moved  out 
to  the  mouth  of  Stinking-Water  river,  intending  to  winter 
there,  and  go  over  and  try  our  hick  prospecting  in  the  spring. 
But  the  Indians  became  insolent  and  began  to  kill  our  cat- 
tle, when  we  moved  over,  late  in  the  fall,  and  settled  down 
at  the  mouth  of  "Gohl  creek,"  and  began  to  prospect.  We 
succeeded  during  the  following  summer  in  finding  prospects 
that  we  considered  very  good,  upon  which  we  began  to  make 
preparations  to  take  it  out  "  big,"  and  wrote  to  our  brother 
Thomas,  who  was  at  "  Pike's  Peak,"  as  Colorado  was  then 
called,  to  come  out  and  join  us,  as  we  thought  this  a  better 
country  than  the  "  Peak."  How  events  have  fulfilled  this 
prediction  will  be  sfjen  hereafter.  Thomas  showed  our  letters 
to  quite  a  number  of  his  friends,  and  they  became  quite  ex- 
cited over  them,  and  in  the  spring  of  1862  many  of  them 
started  out  to  tind  us,  but  became  lost,  and  went  to  Old  Fort 
Limhi,  on  Salmon  river,  and  from  there  they  scattered  all 
over  the  country,  a  few  of  them  reaching  us  about  the  first 
of  July.  We  were  then  mining  on  Pioneer  creek,  a  small 
fork  of  Gold  creek,  without  nuiking  more  than  a  living,  al- 
though some  adjacent  claims  paid  good  wages. 

About,  this  time  quite  a  number  of  people  arrived  who 
had  come  up  the  Missouri  river,  intending  to  go  to  the  mines 
at  Florence  and  Oro  Fino  ;  but  not  liking  the  news  from 
that  region,  when  thiy  arrived  in  Deer  Lodge,  a  part  of  them 
went  no  farther,  but  scattered  out  and  began  to  pros})ect, 
and  most  of  them  are  still  in  Montana  with  a  "  pocket  full 
of  rock  "  and  stout  and  robust  as  grizzly  bears,  although 
some  of  them  are  suffering  from  a  severe  attack  of  an  epi- 
demic known  as  "  quartz  on  the  brain,"  which  is  now  raging 


M 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


9 


^ 


f 


furiously  all  over  Montana.  It  seldom  proves  fatal,  however ; 
the  victim  <jfenerally  recovering  after  being  bled  freely  in  the 
pocket.  The  "  Pike's-Peakers,"  soon  after  their  arrival, 
struck  some  good  pay  on  a  small  branch  of  Gold  creek,  now 
known  as  "  Pike's  Peak  gulch."  The  diggings  of  this  re- 
gion did  not,  as  a  general  thing,  pay  very  well  that  summer, 
and  they  have  not  been  much  worked  or  prospected  since 
from  the  following  cause. 

Many  of  the  "  Pike's-Peakers "  became  rather  lost  and 
bewildered  in  their  attempts  to  reach  Deer  Lodge  and  were 
scattered  all  about  through  the  mountains  ;  this,  though  a 
source  of  inHnite  vexation  to  them  at  the  time,  proved  of 
great  ultimate  bLncfit  to  the  country,  for  one  smal]  party  of 
them  discovered  some  gulch  mines  at  the  head  of  Big-Hole 
prairie  that  paid  tolerable  well  during  the  summer  of  18G2, 
but  they  seem  to  have  been  exhausted,  as  they  have  not  been 
worked  since  that  time.  I  have  been  told  by  men  who  worked 
there,  that  they  worked  across  a  vein  of  good  coal  thirty  feet 
wide  in  the  bed  of  the  gulch,  and  that  they  put  some  of  it 
on  the  fire  and  it  burned  brilliantly.  If  thi  ^  the  case,  this 
locality  will  become  valuable  in  a  short  time. 

Another  party  ha})pcning  to  camp  on  Willard's  cre(!k,  be- 
gan to  prospect  and  found  very  rich  diggings,  where  a  great 
many  men  made  fortunes  during  that  summer  and  winter. 
This  attracted  almost  every  man  in  the  country  to  the  spot, 
and  the  mines  at  Gold  creek  were  deserted  for  the  richer  ones 
at  "  Banniic'k  City,"  as  a  small  town  that  had  sprung  up  at 
the  head  of  the  canon  of  Willnrd's  creek  was  called,  and 
have  virtually  remained  so  ever  since,  f  )r  about  the  time  that 
the  Bannaek  mines  began  to  decline  a  little  and  peoi)le  be  gan 
to  think  of  branching  out  again,  a  party  of  six  who  had 
started  to  the  Yellowstone  country,  on  a  prospecting  tour,  and 
had  been  driven  back  by  the  Crt)w  Indians,  who  robbed  them. 
of  nearly  everything  they  had,  camped,  as  they  were  return- 
ing, on  a  small  branch  of  Stinking-Water  river,  afterwards 
called  Alder  creek,  because  of  the  heavy  growth  of  that  wood 
along  it,  not  a  single  tree  of  which  is  now  to  be  seen,  tho 


10 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


Ml 


wants  of  Ihe  mii  ■  rs  havinGf  used  them  up  long  ago,  and  the 
banlvs  and  bod  of  the  stream  are  dug  up  and  piled  about  in  a 
most  extraordinary  manner,  considering  the  short  time  that 
has  elapsed  since  its  discovery.  But  to  return  to  the  discov- 
eries. Tiiey  camped  on  the  creek  about  half  a  mile  above 
where  the  city  of  Virginia  now  stands,  and  on  washing  a  few 
pans  of  dirt  they  "  struck  it  big,"  getting  as  high  as  four 
dollars  to  the  pan.  They  staked  off  their  claims  and  went 
to  Bi  nnack  City  to  get  a  supply  of  provisions,  and  to  tell 
their  tr'onds  to  return  with  them  and  take  claims,  which  they 
did.  The  creek  proved  almost  fabulously  rich.  Thousands 
of  men  having  made  fortunes  in  it,  and  still  it  is  not  half 
worked  out. 

But  I  am  digressing  from  my  description  of  the  basins 
that  constitute  Montana.  I  hav<  described  Deer  Lodge  valley 
olsewliero,  with  the  excc})tion  of  the  rich  placer  and  (|uart5^ 
mines  situated  in  a  kind  of  secondary  valley,  situated  at  the 
head  of  the  main  one,  and  a  slight  di'scription  of  which  will 
hd  })roper  here.  They  were  discovered  during  tlie  siunmer  of 
18t)4,  th((  large  number  of  gold  imd  silver-bearing  (juartz 
leads  lirst  attracting  the  attention  of  some  pros])eetors,  who 
began  to  examine  the  country  and  found  it  to  be  of  uni^x- 
ampled  riehnei^H,  theie  having  been  discovered  uj)  t^  this 
time  (January,  J8Gr))  over  one  hundred  and  fifty  leads  of 
gold  atid  silver-bearing  (juartz  within  a  space  of  six  by  ton 
miles.  Several  of  tin;  silver  leads  assaying  better  than  the 
famous  Comstock  lead  in  Nevada  territory,  and  one  in  ]iar- 
ticular,  the  "original,"  i)roducing  seventy  ])er  ceiil.  of  metal 
when  melted  down  in  a  common  forge.  The  projiortion  being 
two  thousand  eight  hundred  dollars  in  silver  to  the  ton  of 
rock,  two  hundred  dollars  in  gold  and  co])j)er,  (Miough  to  pay 
all  i-xpenses  of  working.  A  great  many  of  these  leads  pro- 
ject above  the  surface  of  the  ground,  and  can  be  traced  for 
hundreds  of  yards  by  the  eye  while  standing  in  one  spot. 
Therc^  is  no  doubt  but  this  vicinity  will  prove  as  good,  if  not 
better,  than  the  renowned  Washoe  mines.  Wood  and  water 
are  plenty  and  easy  of  access,  and  it  is  besides  an  excellent 


th 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS, 


11 


i 


I 


grass  conn  try.  There  are  also  several  large  leads  of  argentif- 
erous galena,  which  furnish  all  the  lead  that  may  he  wanted, 
and  which  contain  a  sufficient  quantity  of  silver  to  pay  a 
handsome  profit  to  the  workers. 

In  addition  to  the  quartz  leads,  which  are  known  to  form 
a  network  over  a  large  extent  of  country  bordering  Deer 
Lodge  vaHey,  there  is  interspersed  among  these  leads  a  large 
extent  of  placer  or  surface  diggings,  some  of  which  were 
worked  during  the  past  fall  and  yielded  largely,  and  which 
will  afford  remunerative  emph)yment  to  a  large  number  of 
men  for  years  to  come. 

Of  the  farming  capabilities  of  Deer  Lodge  I  have  sjioken 
at  length  in  the  notes  to  this  work,  ami  it  is  sufficient  to  say 
here  that  thev  are  K^'od. 

This  ends  the  descri])tion  of  the  northwestern  basin,  which 
contains  eight  prinei})al  valleys,  to  wit  :  the  valley  of  the 
Flat-Head  lake,  of  the  Mission,  of  the  Jocko,  of  Hellgate, 
of  the  Bitter-Root,  of  Big  Blackfoot,  of  Flint  creek,  and  of 
Di'cr  Lodge,  hcsidis  many  other  smaller  ones  of  great  beauty 
and  fertility.  This  basin  drains  towards  the  northwest,  and 
is  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  long  by  an  average  of 
about  seventy-five  miles  wide.  It  is  by  far  the  best  timber- 
ed part  of  the  territory,  owing  to  the  moist  warm  winds 
of  the  Pacific  ocean,  which  reach  to  the  Rocky  mountains 
along  hvie,  and  cause  a  more  luxuriant  growth  of  V(~getation 
than  farther  siuith,  wluM'e  their  moisture;  is  absorbed  and 
rathi'r  dried  up  in  crossing  the  arid  surface  of  the  "  Great 
basin,"  which  is  destituti!  of  timber,  except  in  a  few  places. 

Sicliuess  is  uhmist  unknown  in  this  basin,  or  indeed  in 
any  of  the  otli  is,  for  I  can  truly  say  that  no  healthier  coun- 
try can  be  found  in  the  woidd  than  that  comprised  within 
the  limits  of  the  territory  uT  Montana. 

Next  is  thf  noi'theastcrn  basin,  lying  on  the  east  side  of 
the  R  teky  mountains,  and  between  them  and  the  low  dividing 
ridge  that  si'pnrates  the  waters  of  the  Saskalchewan,  Red 
river  of  the  north,  and  th(>  Mississippi  riv((r,  from  those  of  the 
MisBOuri.     This  basin  extends  in  fact  from  tho  Rocky  moun- 


12 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


tains  to  the  eastern  border  of  the  territory,  along  its  north 
end,  a  distance  of  near  six  hundred  miles  in  length,  by  about 
one  hundred  and  fifty  in  breadth,  a  small  part  of  its  northern 
edi2;e  lying  in  the  British  jiossessions.  The  eastern  portion  of 
this  vast  basin  is  composed  of  clay  table  lands,  or  "  mauvaise 
terres,"  but  there  is  a  large  amount  of  good  land  along  the 
streams.  There  are  several  s}mrs  and  bunches  of  mountains, 
as  the  "Bear's  Paw,"  "Little  Rocky  mountains,"  "  Three 
Buttcs,"  &c.,  scattered  about  in  it.  It  drains  to  the  east  by 
the  Missouri  river,  Milk  river,  Marias  river,  Teton  river,  Sun 
river,  and  Dearborn,  the  first  three  putting  into  the  Missouri 
below  Fort  Benton,  and  the  last  two  a  short  distance  above 
the  Great  fills.  The  western  portion  of  this  basin  is  but 
little  broken  up  by  mountains,  yet  only  about  one  third  of  its 
surface"  is  available  for  farming,  consisting  of  a  strip  from  ten 
to  twenty  miles  in  width  and  about  one  hundred  and  fifty 
long,  running  along  the  east  foot  of  the  Rocky  mountains, 
whieli  afford  a  good  sujjply  of  timber,  This  strip  is  clothed 
with  buneh-grass,  but  as  you  leave  the  mountains  and  go 
down  into  the  plains,  tie  country  becomes  a  succession  of 
clay  terraces  or  table  lands,  more  commonly  known  as  "bad 
lands,"  which  are  sterile,  with  but  a  scanty  growth  of  stunted 
grass.  The  streams  have  worn  down  through  these  table 
lands  till  they  now  run  in  canons  several  hundred  feet  below 
the  surface  of  the  surrounding  country,  and  in  travi'lling 
through  this  basin  you  are  not  aware  that  you  are  a])proach- 
ing  a  stream  till  you  lind  yourself  standing  on  the  brink  of 
one  of  these  canons  and  see  the  stream  hinidn  ds  of  feet  below 
you,  Uicandering  through  the  narrow  bottoms  that  border  it. 
These  bottoms,  though  narrow,  are  generally  fertile  and  will 
supplied  with  grass  ;  timber,  however,  is  not  very  jdenty^ 
what  there  is  being  principally  cottonwood.  It  is  possible 
that  a  large  portion  of  thesti  table  lands  may  be  rendered  i)ro- 
ductive  by  a  well-directed  system  of  irrigation. 

The  want  of  timber  may  also  b((  supj)lied  by  coal,  of  which 
I  have  reason  to  believe  there  are  larg(i  dei)osits  in  this  basin. 

There  bus  not  been  any  discoveries  that  would  pay,  of  pre- 


s? 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


13 


I 


cious  minerals  in  this  basin  as  yet,  but  there  has  only  been  a 
small  amount  of  superficial  prospecting  clone.  This  has  es- 
tablished the  fact  that  gold  exists  in  unknown  quantities  in 
the  canons  and  streams  that  put  into  this  basin  from  the 
Rocky  mountains.  1  am,  however,  of  the  opinion  that  when 
this  region  is  thoroughly  prospected  it  will  be  found  equally 
as  rich  as  its  sister  basins. 

Next  comes  the  "  Western  Central  basin,"  drained  to  the 
east  by  the  Jefferson  fork  of  the  Missouri  and  its  tributaries,  of 
which  the  following  are  the  principal  :  Big-Holo  river,  which 
comes  in  from  the  northeast,  and  which,  I  think,  affords  more 
than  the  Beaverhead  river,  which  has  generally  been  consid- 
ered the  main  stream,  and  properly  so,  because  ir  runs  through 
the  centre  of  the  basin,  and  drains  a  much  larger  extent  of 
country  than  the  Big-Hole,  which  has  along  its  course,  and 
in  a  huge  semicircle  around  its  head,  some  of  the  loftiest 
peaks  in  this  part  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  on  which 
the  snow  falls  to  a  great  (l('])th,  and  as  it  melts  in  the 
spring  and  sununer,  causes  the  Big-IIole,  which  has  a  much 
steeper  grade  than  the  Beaverhead,  to  become  a  rushing 
torrent  of  formidable  dimensions.  The  Big-Hole  and  the 
Beaverhead  unite  near  the  easti^'n  v.i\*^Q.  of  the  basin,  and 
form  the  Jefferson  fork  of  the  Missouri,  whicli  runs  through 
a  canon  into  the  "  Eastern  Central  basin,"  where  it  makes  a 
junction  at  t|je  "  Three  forks,"  with  the  Matlistm  and  Gal- 
latin rivers. 

Rattlesnake  cn^ek  ct)meH  in  from  the  northwest  as  does 
Williams'  creek,  a  few  miles  farther  west.  Horse  Prairie 
creek,  which  is  the  headwater  of  the  Beaverhead,  comes  in 
from  the  wi>s<.  Red  Rock  creek  comes  in  from  the  south. 
Black-Tailed  Dcun*  creek  from  the  southeast,  and  Stinking- 
Water  river  from  the  southeast.  These  streams  drain  this 
basin,  which  lies  much  in  the  sha]>e  of  a  spread  fan,  being 
about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  wide  by  one  hundred  long. 

There  hav(!  been  no  mines  disovcred  on  the  Big-Mole,  ex- 
cept a  small  i)atch  at  its  head,  of  which  I  have  spoken  else- 
where. 


14 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


I 


lil 


Eattlesnako  creek  is  crossed  in  the  canon  above  its  valley, 
by  numerous  ledges  of  the  richest  silver  quartz  that  has  yet 
been  discovered  in  Montana,  some  of  them  assaying  as  high 
as  five  thousand  dollars  to  the  tun  of  rock.  These  ledges 
are  generally  ct)mi)osed  of  argentiferous  galena,  or  lead  ore, 
containing  a  large  amount  of  silver.  Who  shall  predict  the 
future  of  this  place  !  The  wealth  of  the  Rothschilds  is  as 
nothing  compared  to  the  riches  which  lie  concealed  in  the 
bowels  of  the  llattlesnake  hills,  awaiting  the  coming  of  the 
enchanters  with  their  wands  (in  the  shape  of  capitalists  with 
bushels  of  greenbaeks),  to  bring  forth  these  treasures  that 
have  lain  hid  since  the  sun  first  arose  and  cas*:  its  light  on 
a  viigin  world.  And  tiiis  reminds  me  (as  Father  Abraham 
would  say)  that  this  must  have  been  a  jolly  old  workl  about 
the  time  that  it  was  covered  with  glaciers  (whose  traces  aro 
still  plainly  visible  all  through  the  Rocky  mountains)  so 
deep  that  only  the  tops  of  the  lol'liest  mountains  rose  above 
this  universal  sea  of  ice.  I  think  the  night  winds  must  have 
been  un[!h'asantly  cool  about  that  time. 

Tiie  round  smooth  bnulders  and  gravel  commonly  known 
as  the  ''  wash,"  that  are  always  found  in  placer  diggings,  have 
evidently  l)(>en  caused  by  the  grinding,  [)ulveiizing  action  of 
these  glaciers,  the  country  having  undergone  great  changes 
of  upheaval  and  dejjression  since  that  time,  and  in  gold- 
bearing  localities  the  action  of  the  elements  during  countless 
ages  has  collei-ted  tlu^  gold  that  was  ground  out  the  ledges 
and  rocks  by  the  action  of  the  glaciers,  into  the  ravines,  creeks, 
and  rivers  of  the  vicinity. 

yixt(x:n  miles  west  of  Ruttlesnake  comes  in  Willard's  creek. 
Both  these  streams  head  in  "  liald  mountain,"  about  (ifteeu 
miles  north  of  Bannaek  City.  This  huge  mi»untaiu  is  seam- 
ed witii  ledges  of  very  rich  gold  and  silver  bearing  (^uartz. 
I^othing  has  heen  ('one,  as  yet,  toward  opening  these  leads, 
want,  ol' capital  being  the  cause. 

]iannaclc  City  stands  at  the  upper  end  of  the  canon  on 
Willard's  creek,  where   it   opens   out   into  a  small  valley. 


tlj 

f. 
hi 
H 
bi 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


15 


valley, 
lias  yet 
as  liigli 
1  ledges 
>ad  ore, 
diet  the 
Is  is  as 
,  in  the 
vt  of  the 
sts  with 
:es   that 
light  on 
ibrahain 
id  about 
'aees  are 
ains)  so 
se  above 
list  have 

y  known 
igs,  have 
action  of 
changes 
in  gold- 
;30untle8S 
lie  ledges 
s,  creeks, 

d's  creek, 
lit  (if teen 
L  is  seaiii- 
g  ([uartz. 
.'se  leads, 

cafion  on 
ill  valley. 


The  mines  extend  down  the  creek  seven  or  eight  miles,  and 
have  paid  "  big''  but  are  now  declining  somewhat. 

In  this  canon  are  situated  many  leads  of  gold-bearing 
quartz,  of  exceeding  richness,  among  which  is  the  famous 
"  Dacotah"  lead  which  is  now  being  worked  with  great 
success.  There  is  also  the  Waddam  load,  the  Calilbrnia 
lead,  and  many  others  that  assay  quite  rich.  In  fact,  few 
places  in  the  world  possess  greater  mineral  wealth  tliaii  the 
vicinity  of  Bannack  City. 

Passing  by  Horse  Prairie,  Red  Eock,  and  Black-Tailed  Deer 
creeks,  each  of  which  has  a  valley  of  considerable  extent  wliich 
is  admiiably  adapted  for  grazing  and  ])robably  for  fanning 
also,  but  on  which  no  mines  have  as  yet  been  discovered, 
we  come  to  Stinking- Water  river,  which  has  a  valk^y  of 
considerable  size,  but  only  a  portion  of  wliieh  is  fertile  and 
well  grassed  ;  but  the  spur  of  mountains  that  run  down  be- 
tween it  and  the  Madison  river,  and  whicli  are  over  fifty 
miles  long,  running  due  north  and  south,  are  veiy  rich.  The 
first  stream  that  comes  out  of  these  mountains  into  the  valley 
of  the  Stinking-Water,  is  "  Wisconsin  gulch,"  so  called 
because  it  was  Hrst  worked  by  a  party  from  that  state.  This 
gulch  has  only  been  partially  prospected,  it  being  deej)  to  the 
bedrock,  yet  there  has  been  found  a  considerai)li'  extent  of 
placer  diggings,  in  and  adjacent  to  it.  A  few  miles  farther 
up  the  valley  comes  out  "  Mill  creek,"  so  called  l).M!au80 
Gammell  &  Co.  built  a  mill  on  it  last  year.  There  has  been 
110  ])lacer  mines  discovered  on  this  creek,  but  along  the  base 
of  the  mountains  in  its  vicinity  is  a  large  luunber  of  rich 
gold  and  silver  bearing  (juartz  leads  among  whicli  are  tlio 
Ilothschihls  lode,  the  Eclijiso  lode,  the  Antelopi!,  the  iMoun- 
tain  Queen,  the  Gihraltar,  the  Hawk-Eye,  and  many  others 
thiit  assay  licli. 

This  is  tlu^  only  place  in  this  range  where  silver  leads  are 
found.     Som(M)f  them  assay  from  one  to  two  thousand  dol- 
lars to  th(^  ton  of  rock,  and  they  are  very  easy  of  access 
Hero   is  also  a  thriving  village,  called  "  Bramlon,"   which 
bids  fair  to  rival  Virginia  City. 


16 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


r. 

'•i 


I 
t 


A  few  miles  from  Mill  creek,  comes  out  "Ram's-Horn 
gulcli,"  so  called  from  the  large  number  of  mountain  slieep- 
horns  lying  along  it,  it  having  once  been  a  resort  for  them. 
This  stream,  like  Mill  creek,  possesses  no  placer  diggings, 
but  it  has  not  been  thoroughly  prospected. 

It  has,  however,  many  rich  leads  of  gold-bearing  quartz, 
amor.g  which  is  the  famous  "  Monitor,"  which  is  very  rich. 

A  little  farther  up  the  valley,  comes  out  "  Bivens  gulch" 
— named  alter  the  man  who  first  "  struck  it" — in  this  creek, 
which  has  paid,  and  is  still  paying,  remarkably  well  in 
"  coarse  gold."  Pieces  have  been  taken  out  of  this  gulch 
weighing  as  high  as  three  hundred  and  twenty  dollars. 

A  short  distance  fartlier  along  the  base  of  the  mountain, 
and  we  come  to  "Harris  gulcli,"  named  liter  its  discoverer, 
as  nsnal,  and  which  has  paid  well  in  i)laces,  in  beautiful  coarse 
gold,  but  this  gulch  is  what  is  called  "  spotted,"  in  mining 
parlance  ;  that  is,  the  gold  is  scattered  about  in  irn^gular 
spots.     Only  a  small  portion  of  this  gulcli  has  i)aid  wtll. 

There  is  another  ravine,  called  "  California  gulch,"  which 
comes  into  liiirris  gulch  on  the  south,  before  it  enters  the 
valley  of  Stinking- Water.  This  gnlch  is  similar  to  llarris'e, 
except  that  it  is  still  more  "  spotted,"  and  has  not  paid  so 
well. 

A  few  miles  farther  south,  comes  out  the  fanious  "  Alder 
creek" — t'le  derivation  of  which  name  I  have  given  elsewhere 
— on  the  banks  of  which,  a  few  miles  above  the  first  canon, 
where  it  opens  out  into  a  kind  of  basin,  are  situated  the 
cities  of  "  Virginia,"  "  Central,"  and  "  Nevada,"  which  are 
fast  being  merged  into  one,  with  a  population  of  about  ten 
thousand,  and  rapidly  increasing.  Alder  creek  is  incredibly 
rich,  from  its  head  down  to  near  where  it  enters  the  valley  of 
the  Stinking- Water,  a  dislance  of  aV)out  eighteen  miles.  Near 
its  head,  pieces  have  been  found  weighing  from  titty  to  as 
high  as  seven  hundred  and  tw<!nty  dollars,  the  gold  getting 
coarser  as  I  he  head  of  the  stnnim  is  api)roached. 

In  the  hills  bordering  the  stream,  a  large  nnmber  of  gold- 
bearing  quartz  leads  have  been  discovered.     Those  in  Summit 


';» 


f<i 

ell 
fif 

ol 
tlj 
til 

tl 


MONTANA    AS    IT    I 


17 


-Horn 

shoep- 
tliem. 

quartz, 

rich. 

jriilch" 

creek, 

well  in 

s  gulch 

I. 

)iiiitain, 
,C()verer, 
il  coarse 

mining 
Ivn^gular 

,vrll. 

,"  which 
iters  the 
Harris's, 
■j  paid  so 

}  "  Alder 
plsewliero 
st  canon, 
lated   the 
vliich  are 
ihout  ten 
ineredihly 
i  valley  of 
l(-s.    Near 
iilty  to  as 
d  getting 

r  of  gold- 
11  Summit 


district  in  particular,  heing  of  almost  unexampled  richness, 
while  in  the  mountains  at  the  head  of  the  creek,  is  a  coalfield 
of  unknown  extent,  which  is  now  heing  developed.  This  is 
the  second  place  in  this  hasin  where  coal  has  heen  discovered, 
and,  in  a  country  so  sparsely  timbered  as  this,  coalfields  are 
of  incalculable  value.  In  fact,  nature  has  placed  within  the 
limits  of  Montana  all  the  requisites  to  enable  her  to  become 
the  wealthiest  part  of  the  United  States.  Abounding  in  all 
the  minerals,  precious  and  otherwise,  with  coal  and  water- 
power  unlimited  to  work  them,  the  future  of  Montana  will 
equal  in  reality  those  gorgeous  fictions  of  the  Arabian 
Nights'  Entertainments. 

This  basin  contains  eight  valleys  of  considerable  size,  to 
wit :  The  valley  of  the  upper  part  of  the  Jefferson  and  Bea- 
verhead, of  Big-Hole  river,  of  Big-Hole  prairie,  of  Kattle- 
snake,  of  Horse  prairie,  of  Red  Rock,  of  Black-Tailed 
Deer,  of  Stinking- Water.  This  ends  the  description  of  the 
"  Western  Central  basin,"  which  contains  in  itself  all  the 
essentials  necessary  for  the  prosperity  of  a  mighty  nation. 

Next  comes  the  "Eastern  Central  basin,"  which  is  drained 
by  the  Missouri  river,  beh)w  the  "  Three  forks,"  and  above 
them  by  the  JeflFerson  fork,  into  Avhich  empty  the  North 
Boulder  creek,  South  Boulder  creek,  and  Willow  creek  ;  on 
the  first  and  last  of  which  are  some  placer  diggings  of  lim- 
ited extent  and  richness,  and  many  quartz  leads  that  prospect 
rich. 

This  basin  is  further  drained  by  thi^  Madison  and  G-allatin 
forks,  whicli  form  a  junction  with  the  Jefferson  in  a  fertile 
plain  of  considerable  extent. 

The  basin  contains  a  large  amount  of  arable  land,  with  a 
climate  fully  as  good  as  Utah  ;  it  is  about  one  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  long  north  and  south,  by  about  eighty  east  and 
west.  It  contains  five  ])rincij)al  valleys,  to  wit :  The  valley 
of  the  Three  forks,  of  North  Boulder,  of  the  lower  part  of 
the  Jefferson,  of  the  Madison,  and  of  the  Gallatin.  It  con- 
tains a  greater  amount  of  farming  lands  than  the  basin  of 
the  Beaverhead  and  tributaries. 


4 


1  ■ 


f.    "; 


18 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


Next  and  last  comes  the  basin  of  the  Yellowstone  and  its 
branches  :  it  drains  toward  the  east,  and  is  about  four  hun- 
dred miles  long  by  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  wide.  But 
little  is  known  about  the  mineral  resources  of  this  great  val- 
ley, the  hostility  of  the  Crow  Indians  rendering  it  very  dan- 
gerous prospecting  within  its  limits.  They  have  already 
killed  several  men  who  were  exploring  the  country,  and 
robbed  and  set  on  foot  manv  others. 

The  indefatigable  miners  have,  however,  succeeded  in  find- 
ing a  creek  at  the  western  edge  of  the  basin,  when  it  ap- 
proaches nearest  the  valley  of  the  Gallatin,  whicli  they  have 
called  "  Emigrants'  gulch,"  because  it  was  mostly  taken  up 
by  the  emigrar  j  who  arrived  by  the  Bridger  and  Jacobs 
road. 

There  is  a  small  mining  village  on  this  creek,  which  pros- 
pects very  well  in  places,  and  will  probably  prove  very  rich, 
but  it  is  very  hard  to  work,  because  of  the  vast  quantity  of 
granite  boulders  scattered  along  its  bed  and  banks. 

There  is  every  reason  to  believe,  however,  that  the  basin  of 
the  Yellowstone  will  prove  fully  as  rich  in  precious  minerals 
as  the  others,  and  it  is  known  to  contain  large  fields  of  .coal, 
which  are  very  accessible,  and  among  which  are  numbers  of 
petroleum  or  oil  springs. 

In  climate  and  fertility  this  valley  is  a  medium  b(>tween 
the  valleys  of  the  mountains  and  the  prairies  of  the  Western 
states.     Corn,  beans,  pumpkins,  &c.,  grow  finely  in  it. 

This  basin  contains  eight  principal  valleys,  as  follows  : 
the  main  valley  of  the  Yellowstone,  of  Shield's  river,  of  the 
Rosebud,  of  Clark's  fork,  of  Pryor's  fork,  of  the  Big-Horn 
river,  of  Tongue  river,  and  of  Powder  river,  and  many 
smaller  ones. 

The  Yellowstone  river  will  be  navigable  for  light-draught 
steamers  nearly  to  the  western  edge  of  the  basin,  or  almost 
to  the  centre  of  Montana,  and  it  is  by  this  river  that  she  will 
ere  long  receive  all  of  her  supplies  that  come  from  the  states, 
and  it  will  in  time  carry  down  our  geld  and  silver  to  the  poor 
devils  who  are  so  unfortunate  as  to  live  in  the  Mississippi 


i 


L# 


MONTANA     AS     IT    IS. 


19 


nd  its 
hun- 
But 

at  val- 
y  dan- 
already 

ry,  and 

m  find- 
it  ap- 
?y  have 
ken  up 
Jacobs 

ch  pros- 
jry  rich, 
mtity  of 

hasin  of 
minerals 

of  .coal, 
tubers  of 

between 
Western 
it. 

follows  : 
?r,  of  the 
3ig-Horn 
nd  many 


valley,  and  who  don't  own  any  "feet"  in  any  rich  silver 
leads,  and  are  ignorant  of  the  joys  of  going  out  poor  in  the 
morning,  in  search  of  "  leads,"  and  coming  back  rich  in  the 
evening  (in  imagination). 

O  "Chateaux  en  Espagno  !"  thou  art  the  sole  joy  and 
solac(*  of  many  weary  wanderers  among  the  mountains. 

Thus  ends  this  slight  description  of  "  The  country  of  the 
mountains,"  wliich,  it  will  be  seen,  contains  five  large 
basins,  which  enclose  within  their  limits  thirty  valleys, 
each  of  which  is  as  large  as  three  or  four  German  principali- 
ties, besides  many  smaller  ones  not  much  larger  than  Rhode 
Island  or  Dehrware. 

This  includes  the  valley  of  "  Prickly  Pear  creek,"  so  called 
because  there  are  two  or  three  "  prickly  pears"  growing  in  it, 
and  which  I  came  near  forgetting.  This  would  have  been  an 
unpardonable  omission,  as  it  disputes  the  palm  of  rich  leads 
with  Deer  Lodge, 

It  is  woU  (Established  that  tlie  main  chain  of  the  Rocky 
mountains  from  the  head  of  Deer  Lodge,  sixty  miles  north- 
east to  the  head  of  Prickly  Pear  creek,  contains  more  rich 
gold  and  silver  quartz  leads  tlian  are  to  be  found  in  the  same 
extent  of  country  in  any  other  part  of  the  world. 

These  two  localities  are  formidable  rivals  to  that  modem 
impersonation  of  the  "  El  Dorado  "  of  the  old  Spanish  ad- 
venturers, "  yclept"  Rattlesnake  creek. 

So  mote  it  be. 


t-draught 
or  almost 
,t  she  will 
he  states, 
0  the  poor 
lississippi 


i 


RULES  FOR  PRONUNCIATION. 


t  i 


Give  all  the  letters  their  common  English  sound. 

Be  careful  to  emrhasize  the  syllable  that  has  the  accent 
mark  (thus  0  attached  to  it,  and  if  two  syllables  in  the 
same  word  should  have  the  accent,  emphasize  them  both 

about  alike. 

The  different  sounds  of  the  letter  a  are  noted  when  they 

occur. 

Be  very  careful  not  to  give  the  letters  foreign  sounds, 
such  as  calling  i  as  though  it  were  written  e,  and  c  as  though 
it  were  a,  &c.  Pronounce  the  words  as  though  they  were 
Englinh,  and  not  as  if  they  were  Dutch  or  French,  and  any 
Snake  Indian  will  readily  understand  you. 


DICTIONARY 


OF   THE 


SNAKE   INDIAN  LANGUAGE, 


unci. 

,  the  accent 
bles  in  the 
them  both 

L  when  they 

ign  sounds, 

e  as  though 

li  they  were 

ich,  and  any 


ENGUSH.  SNAKE  INDIAN. 

Antelope  (in  general) Quar'-ree. 

Antelope  (buck) Wanty. 

Antelope  (doe) Qnar'-ree  em-bee'-ab. 

Axe llo'-han  (Note  1). 

All O'-yoke,  or,  o'-yeut. 

Awl Wee'-yoh. 

Arm 15oor'-rali. 

Aunt  (on  the  lather's  side)   Eni-bah'-hah. 

Aiuit  (on  the  mother's  side) Nag'-a  hy  em-bee'-ah. 

Afraid Tu'-e-eu,  or,  mer-ree'-yeu. 

American Sod-yah'-pe  (Note  2). 

Across,  or  on  the  other  side O'-nmig-wa,  or,  o'-nmik. 

Awkward Maw'-wot  (Note  3). 

Arrow Ilo'-pog-gau. 

Arrow-case Ho'  coon-ah. 

Akeady Push,  or,  him'-besh. 

Ashamed Nasli'-u-i. 

All  gone Ma-git'-soo-mat,  or,  cay '-wot. 

Amorous Ny'-sa-swaut,  or,  ny'-a-shap. 

Ants An'-ning-gwuts. 

Ant  eggs An'-ne-no'-yo  (Note  4). 

Ask,  or  asking Mar-ib'-bin,  or,  iu-dib'-bin. 

Alive Kwidge'-o-ni. 

Again A-tee'-is. 

Also A-tee'-is. 

Always,  or  all  the  time An'-deps. 

Ashes Koot'-scep. 

Apr-'i Do'-pur-rah. 

Auti..,ui Yeb'-ban. 

Arise Yates'. 


(f 


22 


MONTANA    AS     IT     IS, 


EXGUSn.  SNAKE   INDIAN. 

Awake,  or  awaking Tib'-boo-e,  or,  tib'-boo-i'-cant. 

Angry To'-lio-buck. 

Antolnpc  skill Qnar'-ree  eni-buh'. 

Ariai)ahoe  Indian Share'-a  tick'-ah. 

A  tort  or  largo  lioiisc  (of  woofl) Pee'-ah  woo'-ban  car'-ne. 

A  I'ort  or  large  house  (of  stone) I'ee'-ah  tiin'-pa  cai'-no. 

An  Amcriean  book Soo-yah'-i>e  tib'-op. 

An  apple Pce'-ah  pug'-uni-be. 

At  present E'-git-alia. 

All  the  lodges U'-yeut-a  ear'-ne. 

All  the  horses O'-yeut-a  pung'-go. 

All  my  cattle O'-yent-a  nec'-ali  quich'-cm  pong'-go. 

All  real  friends O'-vcut  til)'-iteli  a  hanee. 


Buffalo  (in  general) Quiteh,  or,  coo-itch'  (Note  5). 

Buffalo  robe Quitch'-ew. 

Bufi'alo  overshoes Pur'-namp. 

ButValo  niilteiis Pur  niush'-a-tuc-co. 

Buffalo  overcoat Pur'-quash'-ow. 

Ihilfalo  li'ggings Pur'  eoae. 

BuiValo  bull Quich'  no'-va-gant. 

Bulfalo  cow '^uich'  eiu-bee'-ab. 

Breeches,  or  pants Cose,  or,  pce'-mog-guts. 

Black To'-ho-bit. 

Blue T'-be-ah-wit. 

Brown Toop'-shu-but. 

Beard Eni-nio'-ts. 

Bring Mi-yaw',  or,  itii-yack'. 

B'ing  some  wood Cook'-ate. 

Bring  some  water I'ah'-dzi-yah'-conk. 

Big Pee'-up. 

Boy Toon'-yip. 

Blanket Err'h,  or,  wan'-iiop. 

Bear  (in  general) Wood'-ali  (No.  G). 

Bear  (he) ^,c...«  Wood'-ah  ung-goo'-mah. 

Bear  (she) Wood'-ah  em-bee'-ab. 

Bear  (Idiiek) To'  wood'-ah. 

Bt;ar  (brown) Toop'-Rhu-beet  wood'-ah. 

Bear  (cinnamon) T"ff'-gii  wood'-ah. 

Bear  (grizzly) Aw-ha-pit  wood'-ha. 

Bear  (white) To'-sa  wood'-ah. 

Bearakiu Wood'-ah  cm-buh'. 


B];j 
Bc| 

Be] 

Ik 
13lJ 


ant. 


>ni  pong'-go. 


te  5). 


h. 


MONTANAASITIS.  23 

ENOI-ISn.  SNAKE   INDIAN. 

Bear  track Wood'-ah  en-iiani])'. 

Bear  8  foot Wood'-ah  iiaiiip. 

Bear  meat Wood'-ah  un-dook'. 

Bear  river  (U.  T.) Qucc'  o'-gwa. 

Beaver Har'-ne. 

Beaver  skin llariie  em-buh'. 

Beaver  meat Ilar'-ne  un-dook'. 

Beaver  castor Ilar'-iie  en-dali'. 

Beaver  trap ILui'-c-wun. 

Beaver  lodf^e ITar'-)ie  en  car'-ne. 

Bag,  or  Hack Mog'-giits. 

Bridle Timp'-a-san'-o-gah. 

Bed Cap. 

Bed  curtains Cap'  it-zi'-n-ung-gah. 

By-and-by I'ee'-nnnk,  or,  pee'-nung-ga. 

Bay  (color) Ing'-ga-bit. 

Bay  horse Ing'-ga  co'-ali. 

Bay  mare Ing'-ga  pec'-ah. 

Brow7i  liorHc Toop'-shu  co'-ah. 

Brown  n)are Toop'-shu  pee'-ah. 

Black  horse To'  co'-ah. 

Black  mare To'  pee'-ah. 

Blue  hoirfc I'-be-we  co'-ah. 

Blue  mare I'-be-we  pee'-ah. 

Bri)ther  (elder) Ein-baw'-be. 

Brother  (younger) In-tahm'-ma. 

Blackl'o'it  Indian I'ar'-keeh. 

Blackfoot  country Par'-keeh  shock'-up. 

Blackfoot  horses I'ar'-keeh  pong'-go. 

Blackfoot  Avnmen Par'-keeh  wipe. 

Black  Butte,  at  the  mouth  of  Lewis  >  Wock  -way  (Note  7). 

fork  of  Hnake  river  (I.  T.) \  ^  ^  ' 

Black's  fork  of  Oreon  river  (U.  T,),.  .  Wong'-gog-vvay  (Nulo  8). 
Beaverhead  river,  or  JeflVrson  fork  ) 

of  Missouri  river [  H'^''-"^  cm-bamp'  o'-gwa  (Note  9). 

Beaverhead  valley Ilar'-no  em-bamp'. 

Beaverhead  reck ITar'-ne  em-bamp'. 

Blacksmith Wee'-in-dap'-pi  (Note  10). 

Blackbird Pog'-gan-zook. 

Black-Tailed  deer Do'-te-yah. 

Bad Ka'-dzont. 

Badger Hone'. 

Burn Wy'-yap. 


"1 


24 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS, 


ENGLISH.  SNAKE  INDIAN. 

Burnt Wy'-yalit. 

Bruko,  or  broken Co'-pop. 

Boil,  oi  boiling No'-ya-piint. 

Lolling  spring Pah'.gwoe-yo-wah. 

Boiled  meat Nas-salip'. 

Big-IIole  river See'-ninip  o'-gwa  (Not«  li). 

Blaek-Tailod-Deer  creek l)o'-te-yah  o'-gwa. 

Behind Nah'-viHh-i. 

Both Nani'-i-cnt. 

liuw  (weapon) Ho'-itc. 

I?ot Mar-ib'-bah,  or,  tib'-ah. 

Buek  (of  aninuiJB) Ung-gooh',  or,  iing-goo'-mah. 

Bull  (doniestic) No'-ya-gant  a  (luicb'-em  piing'-go. 

Brotlier-in-law lii-day'-to. 

Bald,  or  bald-headed Panip'-ey-wot. 

Bald-eagle PaHs'-ee-ah. 

Hald-faoed To'-sa  co-ba-gant. 

Blind Poo'-e-wot. 

Baeoii.  or  any  kind  of  hog  meat KiihIkiw'  un-<look'. 

Bill  (of  a  bird) yin-nio'-by,  or,  timp. 

Bo  Htill  or  quiet Yoim'-gart. 

Bad  tasting Moit'-zco  gum'-min. 

Beads THum'-mo. 

Big  toe Dat'-tog. 

Barking Woyt'  or  \vaw'-\vaw-gout. 

Bite iNfa-git'-sa,  or.  tig-it'-sa. 

Biting Ma-git'-8ii-ent. 

Berry  (in  general) Pug'-um-bo. 

Blood Pwip'. 

Bloody Pwip'-i)iiit. 

Button Tee'-tini-book'-ah. 

Baek,  or  baekbono Ung-gwimp'. 

l^one Mun-8uo'-nc. 

Boat Hyo. 

Break  (like  a  stick) Mad-/,at'-cawp. 

Brains (lo'-bisli-<'o. 

Blow  (with  the  mouth) Mah'-boke. 

Blow  (a  gale) Kut'-tuh  m^c'-ito. 

Bt'K Niek. 

Bullet-moulds Nai)'-a-gan  gaw'-gwing-ga. 

Bobtail Quash'-eo. 

Buckskin  coat Pi.k'-ah  (piash'-ew. 

Buckskin  shirt Pick''*h  (piash'-ow. 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


25 


ENaLIgH.  RNAKE  INDIAN. 

Buckskin  breeches Pick'-ah  cose. 

Rraiidiiig-iroii Tig'-go-po. 

Boll Cuw-o-wah. 

Boots To'-iiamp. 

Bring  together  (animals) Mam-mock'. 

Bitter-root Kou'-ah  (Note  12). 

Bottle 

Broeth-clout D(j'-pur-rah. 

Ikidge Boas'-sahk. 

Bravo Nare'-e-ent. 

Bread To'-aa-tick'-up. 

Beans I'ee-hoo'-rah. 

Bidl-rush  or  tule Sipe. 

Blue  crane AVah'-ss. 

Breastrstrap  (to  saddle) Wawhum-bec'-nah. 

Bitch 81iare'-rili  em-bce'-ah. 

Bird  (in  general) Qaeen'.ah. 

Bannack  Indian Ban'-ui-ta. 

Belly Shup'. 

Butterfly Ay'-yeh-po-rong'-go. 

Broom Tiii'-o-wah. 

Birch  (connnon) Son'-a  ho'-gwee-dzap. 

IJirch  (small  stinking  kind) To'-sa  bo'-gah  (Note  13). 

Bull-berries big'-ga  hawnip  (Note  14). 

Blossom Ton'-ze-ap. 

Bu/.zard Toag'-go  a  rik'-kah  (Note  15). 

Book Tib'-op. 

Beaded-moccasin Tsum'-mo  namp. 

Big  lodge Pec  -ah  car'-no. 

Big  man Pee'-ah  lur'-nup. 

Big  woman Poe'-ah  wipe. 

Beets  (white) Tsin'-ah. 

Beets  (red) big'-Ra  tsin'-ah. 

By  (lie  side  (of  anything) K\nn'-mo-yc-huiik8. 

Bull'alo  hump See'-nimp. 

Bat  (animal) yum'-moits. 

O. 

Crow  (liird) Pah'-hye. 

Crow  Indian All  (a  as  in  far). 

Comanche  Indian Yam'-pah  (Note  16). 

Cedar-trco Wap. 

( 'Ottonwood 8nw'-a-boe. 


''! 


I 


26 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


ENGUSH.  SNAKE  INDIAN 

Come Kim',  or,  kiiu-nmg'. 

Close  (not  far) Mru'-ditcli. 

Cold Ee'-goiit. 

Cow  (domostic) Qiiich'-om-poiig'-go. 

Comb Nad'-ze-u)o'-ye. 

Coat Poo'-ali  qiiush'-ew. 

Child   Dwut'-sa. 

Campkcttle Weok'-to-wah. 

Crdjinarod (!aW-lia\v. 

Crazy A'-mcp. 

Cry,  or  crying Yag'-g(>et. 

Crane  (sand-hiiij Qiian'-dah. 

Catch Maiid-zi'. 

Come  in Yike. 

Catamount,  nr  lyix Took'-a-bitch. 

Camns rah'-soe'-go  (Note  17). 

Cut  it Mad-ziik'-ah. 

Chief Tayg'-wan-ne. 

Crawfiah I'aij-ah  toag'-go. 

Cloud Tom'-ni). 

Cloudy Ti)in'-U|i-oant. 

Corn riau  -(!-l)it. 

Cornn)i,al llau-e-hit  a  nah'-tlo-sooh. 

Chin Ung-goo|t-er-ititH. 

Chock MaH-saw . 

Cruiijicr  (to  saddle) Nah-gwad-zau'-c-gah. 

Country  or  land Shock'-up. 

Choke-t'horricr,      To'nam'-bo. 

Cricket McHh. 

(/hair ("ar'-dc-naw. 

Co(lar  grovr Wat-tine,  or  Hairr-mar-riuo', 

(JottoTiwood  grove Saw'diaw-rine. 

(Joffee Ca\v'-))ee. 

Coft'ce-miU (!a\v -pee  (lzack'-(piecii. 

Charcoal Koo'-too-boo. 

Cough AW-nij). 

(!roam-coli)rf'd rn'-dani  be(>t. 

CliipH Nit'-Hee-uj). 

Coinb  your  head Km  bamp'  ud-zoo'-to-yo, 

((oyot(( Nag'-a-liy  c'-zip. 

Cards Noo'-whih. 

(^hai ger  (for  gun) Dil -tce-ah. 

(Curlew Uoo-wcch'  (Note  18). 


MONTANA     AS    IT     IS 


27 


EXGLISn.  SNAKE   INDIAN. 

Chewing  tobacco  (the  act  of) Pawm'-o  ma-gits-quitc. 

Cliew  or  (.'hewing Ma-gits'-qnite. 

(/urrants  ( yollow) Aw'-ha-pug'-um-be. 

Currants  (black) To'  pug'-um-be. 

Currants  (red) lug'-ga  pug'-um-be. 

Call Eni-ba'-dze-conk. 

Candle U  -ho  cooii'-ah. 

CaTie  (sDiall  species) Ilo'-gap. 

C'dium Tin'-so-an'-e-caut  (Note  19). 

Cloth  (in  general) Wan'-nop. 

(!at p„8s. 

Certain Tib'-itoh. 

ff^'t I'ong'-go  eii-do'-ah. 

^'•'■^'^1^' CJuieh'-etu  pong'-go. 

('loar  (n<it  cloudy) Toaf-sah-wot. 

XD. 

Deer  Lodge  Ibittn It-soo'-lco  en  car'-ne  (Note  20). 

Doer  Lodge  valley U-soo'-ko  en  car'-iio. 

Deer  (wJiitA-tailed) It-soo'-ke. 

Deer  (lilack-lailed) Do'-le-yah. 

Doe  (of  deer,  kv.) Em-bee'-aii. 

Duck I'no-e-yah. 

Dog Share'-rih. 

Dead Tee'-apo,  or  teo^-a. 

Dark Tong'-gun. 

Dayliglil I']'  giii  nah'-bo-na. 

Daughter Km  bay  -dah. 

Daughtir-in-l;iw Mow-hoatH'-em-boe. 

(  Diin'l  know Kn  Hliume'-bau-ner  (Note  21). 

Deep l)ook'-un(. 

Deep  hole Dook'-er-iiio. 

Down  Htrenin rah'-niudi,  or,  tin'-ah. 

DiHrnoinit Wike. 

Dapple  grey Ah'-aHh'-er-ab'-bu. 

Do V lis  or  fairies Nin'-iuu-bcc  (Note  22). 

I>'i  il< Ma-hib'-ba,  or,  hib'-ba. 

Dnnik I'i'-a  ine|)'. 

Dry  creek  (in  general) I  lo'-na-bit  puh'-wol. 

Dollar roe-aHB'. 

Dry  or  dead  eottunwood Paw'-a-bit  a  wipe. 

Dust llook'-ocmp. 


-m 


28 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


'  I 


ENGLISH.  SNAKE   INDIAN. 

Deaf Ka    niing'-a-tine,    or,     uung'-ga-wot 

(Note  23). 

Drowned Pahu'-do-ree'-arcant.  , 

Dry  (not  wet) Pash'-np. 

Dry  (thirsty) Hib'-ba-schwant. 

Doomed Ka-kwedge'-o-ni. 

Dance,  or  dancing Kik'-kaht. 

Dark  (of  the  moon) Mee'-ah  tee'-ayp.  • 

Day Tab'-ba. 

Digger  Indian Shosh'-o-co  (Note  24). 

Dirt Shock'-up. 

Drawers  (dotliing) Dook'-a-ni  cose. 

Dried  apples  or  peaclies Pah'-see'-go. 

Dish  rag 0\v'-a-rt)to'-sec-mah. 

Deer  meat  (white-tailed) It-looke'  un-dook'. 

Deer  meat  (black-fciiled) Dit'-te-yah  un-dook'. 

Do  yon  uiulerstand  me? Tm'-liow  nee'-ah  ma-nung'-gan. 

Don't  you  understand  me  ? Im'  how  ka'  nee'-ah  nia-n\uig-gan. 

Don't  kill  him,  her,  or  it Ka'  mow-vake'. 

Don't  go Ka'  myer'-ro. 

Don't  scold Ka'  maii-eet'-too-un. 

Doctor Po'-ho-gant. 

Dirty,  or  filtliy Teech'-ent. 

Drunkard An'-da'  pi'-a-mep'. 

Do  you  talk  the l::^nalie  timgue  well  ?..Im '-how  tsoutsho'-sho-ue  ta'gwan. 


lED. 

Eat Tik'-kaht  (a  as  in  hat). 

Kar Kn-nunk',  or,  nung'-ga. 

Eye Em-boo'-ee. 

Elk Par'-re-aii. 

Enough Shu'-big-ali,  or,  Rhu'-big-un. 

Eiglit .  Ny'-a  wot'-se-wit. 

Eleven Seo'-man-o  sim'-mitch  man-doy'. 

Eigldeen Si'e'-maii-o  ny'-.i-wot'-sc-wit  man-<l(>y'. 

Eiglity Ny'-a  wot'-se-wit  see'-mau-o. 

Eagle  (in  general) Pce-ah  queeu'-uh. 

Evening Yake. 

Entrails Mung-goy'. 

Eyebrows Ki-mp. 

Eyelashes Uoor'-as-se. 

Elbow Noe-goop'. 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


29 


iiing'-garwot 


-gan. 
luig-gan. 


s  ta'  gwan. 


nil. 


iii-dfiy'. 

vit  inan-(l(»y'. 

m-o. 


ENGLISH.  SNAKE   INDIAN. 

Every O'-ycut. 

Every  day  ...    O'-yeiit  a  tab'-ba. 

Every  night O'-yout  a  toog'-guii. 

Early  in  tlie  morning E'-gih  nah'-bo-na. 

Edge  or  side Uiig-gini'-mok. 

Enemy Waw'-haw. 

Ear-rings Nniig'-ga  sini'-nia. 

Elk-si<in Par'-re-a  em-buli'. 

Eating Tik'-kulit, 

Eating  broad   To'-sa  tick'-np  a  tick'kaht. 

Eating  meat Un-dook'  a  tik'-kaht. 

Egg Qiieeu'-ali  no'-yo. 

'■% 

IF". 

Freni'liman Ti'-oo,  or,  tab'-ba-bo, 

Friend Hance,  or,  haunce. 

Father App. 

Father-in-law Dog'-go. 

Fat U'-liope. 

Fish Peug'-woe,  or  Peuk. 

Frog Yaw'-gwad-zee. 

Fox Wan'-iie.  or.  AVaugli'-no. 

Flios  (insects) .Vn'-no-moo-ee. 

Fire Coon'-ah. 

Fog Pag'-in-up. 

First Ili'-a-gan. 

Feeiling TaW  meo'-ah,  or,  taw'-win  (2.5). 

Far Nbin'-»ndc,  or.  ^lan'-a-gan. 

Four ]\[ot'-se-wit. 

Five Man'-e-git. 

Fiinrh'cii 8ee'-man-o  wot'-se-wit  man-doy'. 

Fifteen Hee'-man-o  man'-e-git  man-doy'. 

Forty Wot'-se-wit  seo'-man-o. 

Fitty Afan'-e-git  see'-raan-o. 

Floiu" To'-sa  tiek'-np. 

Flint   Fn-namp',  or,  iiamp'. 

Fnimd  iir  tind Ma-row'-dah. 

Face Co-be. 

Fly  (Hie  act  of  tiyi  ig) Yore'-ali-tig. 

Flying Yore'-ah-lig'-gin, 

Full Tip'-a-gah. 

Full  (speaking  of  eating) Wooj-jim. 

Flat-Head  Inilian Tat'-se-paw. 


80 


MONTAN  A     AS     IT     IS. 


II    * 


ENGI.ISn.  SNAKE    INDIAN. 

Finger A[asli'-i.'-\vitk. 

Fiiif;-cr-rinii M;ui'-e-gah. 

Finscr-iiaiis Mas-scot. 

Fisli-h()(tk Xu(l-zoo'-no. 

Forcliead I  n|:;-ki'. 

Full  nidon Moe'-iih  tom'-bo-nut. 

Fall  or  fell Pike. 

Fryiiigi-iian Ti'o'  qiiKh-iiif^-p;an. 

Fall  (<»l'  the  yoiii) Ycb-baii. 

Feci  (with  the  hands) Maw'-shooii-f^ah. 

Feeling  (with  the  liaiuls) Maw'-shcKUi-gah. 

Feeling  (liodily  or  iiicntal) Nee'-shoon-gah. 

Fry,  or  fried U'-lm  quasli-iiig.gnp. 

Fire-steel Kosh'-awb. 

File Tiiu-inad-zoo'-iie. 

Frozen Tec'-a-sip. 

Flute,  or  any  wind  instruinent Tim'-indO-yag'-gin-gan. 

Fight Xali'-a-<ling. 

Fix  tile  lodge,  it  is  smoking Qcek'-nnt  ini  ad-yec'-hon. 

Formerly .Saw'-vish. 

Fir-tree VVong'-go-be. 

Floor \V(i-by  sho'-ne. 

Fire-wo'ul Cuon'-ali. 

Feathers  (in  general) Piir'-seep. 

Foalliers  (on  arrows) Xas'-see-ah. 

Fork  (to  eat  with) 'rid'-/.cc-iih. 

Fork  (in  timber) Ifo'-pit  Woor'-ah-sah-gah'-gant. 

Flicker,  or  yeilow-lianmier An'-niiig-gwee'-kwce  (Note  2(i). 

Forget,  forgot,  or  forgottiii Nas'-sa-wad-zip. 

Frightened Mer-roe'-yen. 

Flint Tim'-pa  nad'-doek. 

FiHli-line 

Fishing Peng'-wcc  hat. 

Fish-eggs IVng'-wee  iio'-ya. 

FIy-l»low8 An'-ne-nioo-ee  no'-ya. 

O 

Gun Itc'. 

Grass Slio'-nip. 

Grey Ow'-ji-bit. 

Go.  or  go  away Mycr'-ro. 

OrooTi !'on'-o-bi-nt. 

Green  river  (U.  T.) Can'-im-ra  o'-gwa  (Note  27). 


;.;it^y  m 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS, 


31 


**.  ENGLISH.  SNAKE   INDIAN. 

Green  Pipestone  creek Poo'-e-toy  (Nuto  28). 

Green  wood Pah'-c-gweetrship  lio'-pit. 

Great  Halt  lake  (U.  T.) Teed'-ze  pah  (Note  29). 

Give Mow -oat. 

Give  it  to  me My-yack,  or,  nee'-ah  oat'. 

Give  liim,  or  lier,  something  to  eat . .  Mam-mar'-gah  niam-mock'. 

Give  some  water Pah'  mow-oat'. 

Give  me  some  water Neo'-ali  pah'  margh. 

Give  me  some  milk Beed'-je  nee'-ah  oat'. 

Get iMy-yah'. 

Get  up Yates'. 

Get  on.  or  mount Mah'-ban-toy. 

Get  wood Cook'-ate,  or,  cook'-ick-oonk. 

Get  breakfast,  diinier,  or  supper Tiek'-up  ma-hon'. 

Gold Aw'-ha-pit  la  pee-ass'  (Note  30). 

Good Tzawnt'. 

Ground Shoek'-up. 

Ground-liog Yali'-hit-/-ee. 

Grouse Cah'-hah. 

Gaml)Ie,  or  gambling Ny'-a-witeh  (Note  31). 

Ghost Fswop',  or,  thiM)p'  (Note  32). 

Goi'se Nig'-gant. 

Go  out Toy'. 

Go  to  him  or  her Mow'-wo-gant  a  Myer'-ro. 

Go  liome Myer'-ro  un-en  Car'-ne. 

Go  and  look Myer'-ro  ma-lxio'-eet. 

Go,  or  going,  aeross  the  river Pah'-roy. 

Going  on  foot Shosh'-o-co  myer'-ro. 

Gojiher Ya'-hah-biteh. 

Grey  horse Ah'  eo-ali. 

Grey  mare Ah'  pee'-ah. 

Glovi's Mush'-a-tue-eo. 

Grandmother  (on  father's  side) Ilote'-zee. 

Grandmother  (on  mother's  side).   ...(rog'-go. 

Grandfather  (on  fallu-r's  side) Ung-gin'-naw. 

Grandfather  (on  mother's  side) Dog'-g"- 

Groy  ground  squirrel (Iieep',  or,  ehip. 

Ground  sipiirrel  (striped) Wo'-it-zee,  or  wo'-ee. 

Grasshopper Ilah'-tmik. 

Gonerrhcca Tim-pop,  or,  Tim'-pipe  (Note  33). 

Gun-flint Tim-pa  nad'-dok. 

Gap  in  niouiitain Weo'-yah. 

Gall Awm'-bo-ce. 


.-     if!!' 


32 


MONTANA     AS     IT     I 


r    I 


EXOIJSH.  SNAKE    INDIAN. 

Gimlet Ilote'-zat-tib -book-a. 

Glue 

Grease U'-hope. 

Gum  (of  pine-trees) Sou'-np. 

Goat Quar'-ree  puiit^'go. 

Good-bumurcd Ka'  him-ba  Tuo'bope. 

Gallatin  river Cut-tub  o-gwa  (Note  34). 

FIouRe  (of  wootl) Woo'-vau  car'-uec. 

Horse Puii{;:'-g:o. 

ITat Tiz'-zo-moy. 

Hair Pamp'-ey,  or,  pomp'-cy. 

Hare To'-sab-cum. 

Ilaiiil Maw. 

Haml-saw Ilote'-zick-ali. 

Hauilsiime Tzawiit'  nab'-bo-ick-uut. 

Haudkercliief Wau'-uo  coor'-ock. 

Half Sinp;'-g;\vapp. 

ITalf-nioou Mee'-ab  wiiig'-gape. 

Ham's  fttrk  (V.  T.) To'-row-gwa. 

Hair  rope Pur'  tim'-oke. 

FFawk  (in  general) Queen'-ah. 

Hard Cuf'-tunt. 

Fliimmer Tid'-an-a-kec. 

Hair-oil Tec'  u'-ho. 

Hair-brusb Nee'-too-ye. 

Hernl Em-bamp'. 

Head-acbe Em-bamp'-ey  nit-siek. 

Fl.iirt Fm-beeb'. 

Fleavy Put'-tunt. 

Henry's  fork  (I'.  T.) Har'-ne  on  tim'-pa  car'-ne. 

Heel   l']u-dap'-gaw. 

Hill  (sometimes  used) No'-a-iiee. 

Flill  or  bills  (ijiencrally) Ab'-nain. 

llim,  or  bcr I'uii'-us,  or,  pun-in-tag-gah. 

Hip ITnt'-zo-mnp. 

Hot Eiir  -a-ent. 

Hold,  or  to  bold. Man-dzi'. 

Flow  inucli,  or  how  many Flim'-ba-gant. 

Horn Ah  (a  as  in  far). 

Horsc-ilies I'ee'-bcet  (Note  35). 

HorHC  dragging  u  rope I*ung'-go  tiin'-okc  u  wee'-yob. 


In. 

ni- 


Ja^ 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS, 


33 


ENOUSH.  SNAKE   INDIAN. 

Horse  dragging  lodge-poles Pung'-go  wan'-dan  nore'-ah. 

Horseshoe Pong'-go  wee'-namp. 

Horse-prairie To'  erh'-ah-ro-ne  (Note  36). 

Horse-prairie  creek 

House  (of  stone)   Tim'-pa  woo'-ban  car'-ne. 

Hoops  (ladies') Wee-im-big'-i-noh. 

Hurry Nam'-i-shaw, 

Husband Ung-gaw'-up. 

Hungry Pow'-er-ee-a-cant. 

Hunting Tig'-ga  mee'-ah. 

Hard-hearted Um-beeh'  tim'-pa-wite. 

Ice Pah'-cup. 

Iron Wee'  or,  poo'-e  weeh. 

In  blossom Ton'-ye-ah-cant. 

In  the  middle Tib'-bee'-nah. 

In  love  with  anything Shoon'-gwee-tah. 

Infant  (girl) Tee'-a-pud,  or,  o'-nah. 

Infant  (boy) Toon'-yip-it-see,  or,  o'-nah. 

I  don't  know Nee'-ah  ka'  shumc'-ban-ner. 

I  don't  understand Nee'-ah  ka  e-nung'-gan. 

I  don't  know  when  I'll  come  back. .  .No'-in  ka  him'-ba  coin. 

I  traded  for  it Nee'-ah  sick  en-dim-up. 

I  am  poor Nee'-ah  nash-en-dit-en. 

I  am  cold Nee'-ah  shit'-tee-ah. 

I  am  warm Nee'-ah  it-zi'-u-en. 

I  (myself) Nee'-ah. 

It  is  warm  and  pleasant It-/i'-n-ike. 

It  bit  me Nee'-ah  na-git-see-ah. 

I  cut  my  hand Nee'-ah  maw'-nco-ah  raad-zic-ah. 

I  am  going Nee'-ah  myer'-ro. 

I  don't  like  you Nee'-ah  ka  im  ac-cum-mi-gan. 

I  don't  hear  you Nee'-ah  ka  ira  o-nung'-gan. 

Independence  rock Tim'-pa  nah-bore. 

Ill-humored An'-da  too'-hope. 

:^  J 

Jump Pop',  or,  pop'-ate. 

Just  alike Mab'-a-gant 

Jackass Moo'-dah  app'. 

Jaw  (upper) Saw'. 

Jaw  (under)  Ah'-r-ab. 

-m  3 


34 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


IS. 

ENOMRn.  SNAKE   INDIAN. 

Bjiife    Weet'. 

Knco En-dan -up. 

Know Shooni'-ban-ner. 

Kidney Dag'-ge-po. 

Kangaroo  nionso It-Booke'  po'-ni  (Note  37). 

Ko}' Tin'-a-kee. 

KisB Moo'-de-hikc. 

Kill Mow-vake',  or,  mow-rote'-sah. 

Kill  that  dog Mow-vake'  BOf>k  share'-rih. 

Kill  this  mati Mow-vake'  sickch  tur'-nup. 

Xj 

Lame  (in  fore  foot) Mot'-whet. 

Lame  (in  Innd  foot) Peet'-whet. 

Lake Pah'  car-did. 

Lazy Toe'-o-nab. 

Langh Yan'-eot. 

Laughing Yan'-e-cunt. 

Lay  it  down Mail-zat'-tig. 

I^b Tini-i'-yah  (Note  38). 

Largo Poe'-up,  or,  Pce'-h. 

Large  beails Pee'-ah  t«um'-mo. 

Lead  (mineral) Nah'-bok,  or,  nab'-a-gan. 

Lead  (with  a  rope,  &e.) Ad-zung'-gan. 

Leg Aiom. 

Leggings Tchee'-woor-ah-raali,  or,  coso. 

Level Say'-pig-ant. 

Let  it  alone,  or  let  it  be Mow-bweck',  or,  mow-bwe'-eck. 

Let  them  go,  or  let  them  alone Mah'-re-bwet'-tike. 

Lie  (falsehood) Ish'-shump. 

Lie  (to  recline) Ilab-ba. 

Lie  down Hab'-ba,  or,  Ilab'-bate. 

Like Ac-cum'-ini-gati. 

Little Tee-ditch. 

Light  (not  dark) Nali'-bo-ick-unt. 

Light  (not  heavy) Ka  puf-tnnt. 

Lights,  or  lungs O-eawm'. 

Liver 0-nim'. 

Lid,  or  cover Nam'-i-rim-ah. 

Look Mah-b(me'. 

Look  for  it Mow-wake'. 

Look  sharp  or  closely Tzont'  mah-bone'. 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


35 


KV. 


3te'-Bah. 

'-rih. 

-nup. 


;an. 

,  or,  coBO. 
w-bwe'-eck. 

itc. 


ENGIJ8H.  SNAKE   INDIAN. 

Looking-glaes Nah'-bo-na. 

Long  (ill  length) Cu'-barront. 

Long  time  ago Saw'-vish. 

Lodge  (of  skint!) Pick'-ah  car'-ne. 

Lodge  (of  cloth) Wan'-no  car'-no. 

Lodge  pole Wan'-dan. 

Louse PusB'-sy. 

Lousy Puss'-e-ah-gant 

Lover  (of  either  sex) Tee'-oo-dah. 

Lonesome Teot'-han-ish-wunt. 

I>oad  (a  gun,  for  instance) Njili'-ree-bah. 

Mad,  or  angry To'-ho-buck. 

Magpie Quee'-dow-woy. 

Make Ma-hon'. 

Man Tur'-nup. 

Mare Pung'-go  em-beo'-ab. 

Make  haste Nam'-i-shaw. 

Make  the  bed Sho -ne. 

Many Shaw'-ut. 

Manyfold  (of  paiuich) Sag'-ga-bee  (Note  39). 

Matches Ho'  kosh'-awb  (Note  40). 

Maybe No-hog'-a-ny. 

Make  a  fire Cut-taw. 

Marrow-gut Um-bah'-bung-go'-he. 

Maggot 

Me Nee'-ah. 

Meat Un-<look. 

Meet Mow-wa'-ge-oh  (g  hai'd). 

Mexican  or  Spaniard To'-yah  ti'-ro. 

Meadow  lark Ilay'-taw. 

Melted ,  .Pah'-wite. 

Mc<licine Nah'-tsooh. 

Measure Mau'-a-keet. 

Mint  (wild) Paw'-gwec-nah. 

Mischievous Kesh'-want. 

Midnight Tog'-wa  toog'-gun. 

Midday Tog'-wa  tiib'-ba. 

Milk Beed'-jo. 

Mittens Mush'-ii-tuc-co. 

Moimtain To'-yah-be. 


36 


MONTANA     AS     IT     18 


X 

i' 


ENGLISH.  SNAKE   INDIAN. 

Mountain  sheep  (generally) Took'. 

Mountain  sheep  (ram) Took'-utt-se. 

Mountain  sheep  (owe) Moo-zura'-be. 

Mount  (to) Mah'-ban-toy. 

Moccasin Pick'-ah  namp. 

Moccasin  board Tiz'-zi-tu'-day. 

Moose To'-par'-re-ah  (Note  41). 

Moose  skin To'-par'-re-ah  em-buh'. 

Moose  nose To'-par'-re-ah  em-mo'-by. 

Mother Eni-bee'-ah. 

Mother-in-law Gog'-go. 

Money  (in  general)  Lah  pe-ass'. 

Moon Mee'-ah  (Note  42). 

Mouth En-dimj). 

Morning Petch'-co. 

Moving U'-miick. 

Moving  camp No'  myer'-ro. 

Move  (to) U'-muck. 

Mouse Po'-id. 

Mouse-colored Quah. 

Mosquito Mup'-po. 

Molasses    Yo'-go  pee'-nah. 

Mole  (animal) Ya'-ha-bitch. 

Mole  (small  wen) Uug-goo'-meets. 

Mormon  book Mor'-mon  tib'-op. 

Madison  river Quee'  o'-gwa. 

Muskuielou Aw'ha  pah'-tick-up. 

Name , Nau'-ny-hack. 

Nail,  or  nails  (iron)  , Tid'-ap-se. 

Needle , Tee'  wee-yoh. 

Neck . .  .Man-doy'-omp. 

Neigh Tee'-hee-yah  yag'-geet. 

Nez  Perce  Indian Thoig'  a  rik-kali  (Note  43). 

New  moon Mee'-ah  e'gih  car'-did. 

Nine See'-man-o  woom'-uiit. 

Nineteen Seo'-man-o  see'-mau-o  woom'-unt-man- 

doy. 

Ninety Seo'-raan-o  woom'-unt  a  see'-man-o. 

No Ka'. 

Noon Tog'-wa  tab'-ba. 


MONTANA     AS     IT     18 


37 


t. 

te  43). 

I. 

t. 

)  woom'-unt-maii- 


ENOLISH.  SNAKE   INDIAN. 

Now E-giUha. 

Nose Em-mo-by. 

Nothing ^"an- 

Nothing  left Cay'-wot 

Not  strong Ka  nare-e-ent. 

O 

Old Soo'-go-pnh. 

Oldman Soo'-gcpit-ze. 

Old  woman Hib'-barzaw. 

Oil U'-hope. 

One      Sim'-raitch. 

One  hundred See'-man-o  maw  (Note  44). 

On  this  side  ot  the  river Tarn'  e'-nunk. 

On  top 0-bont. 

On  the  bottom Oo-rook'-un. 

On  foot Sliosh'-o-co  myer'-ro. 

Onion  or  onions King'-kh,  or,  king-gub. 

Opponent Mun-zo'. 

Otter Pon-sooke'. 

Other  or  others Kick'-un-ish. 

Outside Ho'-nunk. 

Oven Tim'-pa  tei'  quash'-aiig'-gan. 

Over-doat Pee'-ah  quash'-ew. 

Oysters Yaw-gwdn-ne. 

Open  the  door Mad-zat'-whoo-eet. 

Ox  or  oxen Quich'-cm  pung'-go. 

racing Pish'-in-dig-gin. 

Pack-saddle Nore-ah  nair-i-noh. 

Paint  (in  general) Pish'-ip. 

Painting,  or  to  paint Nah'-vislwib. 

Pan  (tin) To'-sa  ow. 

Pan  (sheet  iron) To'-ho-bit  ow. 

Panther To'-yah-rook  (Note  4.5). 

Paper Tib-awp'. 

Parfleche Teet'-sock  (Note  46). 

Partner In-dag'-gah,  or  mnn-day'. 

Pattern Tim'-man-a-keep. 

Palm A-mup-pahn. 

Panting Quee'-be-pig'-^in. 


38 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


r^r.Hi 


, 


i  (Ml 


f  1 


I    1 


KNOUSH.  S.VAKE    INDIAN. 

Pepper  (I'ack) To'  o-nah-bit  (Note  47). 

Pepper  (red) Ing'-ga  o'-nah-bit. 

Pencil Tib'awr. 

Pen  d'Oreille  Indian Pah'-ho-guh. 

Pen  (to  write  with) Tib-awr. 

Peas Po'-pon-zon-eet. 

Perhaps No-hog'-a-ny. 

Percussion  caps Nah'-dok. 

Pine-trees  (in  general) Wong'-go-be. 

Pine-tree  (yellow) Ing'-ga-quin'-o-gah. 

Pine-tree  (white) Nah'  wan'-flah  u'-gweet. 

Pine-tree  (niit-bearing) Tib'-ap  (Note  48). 

Pine-nut    Tib'-ap. 

Pistol Kib'-ba  ite'. 

Pipe Toy. 

Pinch  (to),  or  scratch Mad-zat'-soe-ah. 

Pine  or  fir  grove Wong'-go-riiie. 

Pillow T/ap'-a-dig-ga. 

pi„ A  w'-ha  woe'-yoh. 

Pitch  in  if  you  think  best Soo-do-niake". 

Pitch  (pine  gnm) 8on'-np. 

Pick  (mining  tool) Fhock'-o  v  ooh'-hur-rah. 

Plate Tish-awM 

Playing  cards Non'-whink. 

Playing  ball Nip-])a-nt. 

Plane  (tnol) llo'-seo-bih. 

Powder Nah'-goots. 

Powder-horn Nah'-ah-tog'-go. 

Pole-cat,  or  8kiu\k Po'-ne-a(-sy. 

I'orcupino    Yay'-nit-sa. 

Poor  (not  rich) Nash'-en-dit. 

poor  (not  fat) ron-a-bitcii. 

Potatoes Tid'-/e-ny'-yali. 

Port  Neui'  river Pco'-nah  gweo. 

Prairie    P.ir'-wot. 

Prairie  dog Tin'-saye. 

Prairie-dog  owl Puck-aw'. 

Prairie  chicken Pahn'-gog-go  (Note  49). 

Pretty T/.onl  nali'-bo-na. 

Pricking,  or,  to  prick Tor'-nt-gah. 

ProviHion.  or,  "grid)" Tick'-\ip. 

Putrid Pish'-ip. 

Purse Pc-asH'  inog'-gutw 


MONTANA      AS     IT      IS. 


39 


ENGLISH.  SNAKE   INDIAN. 

Put  it  on Nad'-zan-e-gah. 

Piill  it  off Tzuck'-qui-ee. 

Put  it  away Ma-rig'. 

Q 

Quick Nam'-i-shaw. 

Quit Slm'-big-r,h. 

Quiet You'-n-gurt. 

Quarrel,  or,  (inarrelling Nah'-gvvooh-int. 

Quaking  aspen  tree Sliiu'-ali  be. 

Quaking  aspen  grove Shin'-ar-rino, 

RaDhit .Tah-bo. 

Roiii Pah'-im-mah. 

Bamrod,  or  wipingHstick Nad'-ze-wy. 

Rattlesnake    Toag'-go  (Note  50). 

Ravine Ho'-nah-bit. 

Race,  or,  racing Nah'-re-nah'-rah. 

Red Ing'-ga-bit. 

Red  sorrel  (color) Un-dani-beot. 

Rod  sorrel  (color) lug'-ga  aw'-liarpit. 

Red-sorrel  liorse Un'-<hun-co'-ali. 

Red-aorrcl  mare Un'-dain-pee'-ali. 

Red  Hock  creek  (M.  T.) Tiig'-ga  tinip'-i)a  pah  (Note  51). 

Red-I'aced liig'-ga  co'-ba-gant. 

Rod  hat Iiig'-ga  tiz'-zo-nioy. 

Red  shirt lug'-ga  qnash'-ew. 

Return Coyt. 

Real  friends Tib'-itch-a  hanco. 

Rillc Ito,  or,  waw'-ito. 

Ripped Teer'-c-aj). 

Ribs WahtH. 

Rico An'-ne  no'-yo  (Note  52). 

Roan Ash'-cn-bit. 

Road I'o'-ee. 

Roue Tin»'-oke. 

Rose  (Hower) Ing-ga-yah-cant. 

RoHo-bush Itch'-e-ab. 

Ros(>-berry Itch'-c-ab  i>ug'-nni-be. 

Rump Mani-bec'-wosli. 

Rvui Nook,  or,  iiook'-ato. 


w 


!  1 


40 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


ENOI.ISH.  SNAKE  INDIAN. 

Run  qtiick Nam'-i-iiook. 

Running  fast Ket'-tan-ook-yeut. 

Rock Tii.ip'-a. 

Rosin Son'-up. 

Rotten Pish'-ip. 

Rotten  wood Wut'-si-namp. 

@ 

Snake  Indian Sho'-sho-ne  (Note  53). 

Snake  (garter  and  common) Pah'-«ee-noo'-oe. 

Snako  (rattle) Toag-go  (Note  50). 

Snake  river  (I.  T.) Po-ho-gwa  (Note  58). 

Sack Mog -guts. 

Saddle  (i  iding) Nare'-i-noh. 

Saddle  (i  ack) Nore'-ah  narc'-i-noh. 

Sage  bn.sh Po'-ho-bit. 

Sage  c)iicken .Iloo'-c-jan  (Note  54). 

S;dt O-nah-bit. 

Salt  river  (I.  T.) O'-nah-bit-a  pah,  or,  to'-sa  car'-nc  (55). 

Salmon Ag'-gi. 

Salmon  river  (I.  T.) Ag'-gi  pah  (Note  57). 

S;ind  pi|Hr Palin'-do-weeh. 

SaleratiiH Tid'-o-mi-u-linh. 

Sand Pah'  see-wum -be. 

Saddle-blanket Nmi'-flha-maw. 

See Muh-bo'-ne. 

Seven Tots'-wit. 

Seventeen 8ee'-man-o  tots'-wit  man-doy'. 

Seventy Tots'-wit  sce'-man-o. 

Service  ImihIi Tee'-ab-be. 

Service  berry Tie'Kun[i  (Note  56). 

Sew Na/.-Kack'-kin. 

Sewing Nrt/,-/.ack'-kin-\ip. 

Soe'-go iS<'e'-go. 

Six Nah-bite. 

Sixteen See'-inan  -o  nah'-bite  maii-tloy'. 

Sixty 'I'otP'-wit  Hoe'-inan-o. 

Sisb-r  (cldiri   Kni-bad'-zih. 

Sirtter  (younger) Nam'-mih. 

SiHter-in-law Em-bahm'-bo-up. 

Si(,  or  sit  down    ('ar'-<li  1. 

Sinew  (used  in  sewing) .Tuhm'-o. 

Sing Tin'-nc-toy. 


Bn 
Sn 
Be 
Bin] 

p.' 


MONTANA     AS     IT     I 


41 


LN. 


y-fla  car'-nc  (f)!^)- 


ii!in-doy'. 


niiuwloy'. 


ENGLISH.  SNAIE   INDIAN. 

Singing Tin'-nc-toy'-cant. 

Side,  or  edge Uiig-gim'-mok. 

Silver Ash'-cn-bit  lah  po-ass'. 

Sioux  Indian Pam'-pa-jiin'-i-na  (Note  59). 

Shirt Qiiash'-ew. 

Shot Ptvli'  8ce'-wun  nah'-bok. 

Shot-pouch Nah'  mog'-guts. 

Sheep  (common) Took'-oo  pong'-go. 

Sheep  f mountain) Took'-utt-see. 

Sheep-ukin , .  .Took'  eni-buh'. 

Sheop-eater,  or  Salmon  11.  snake.   . .  .Took -all  rik-kah. 

Shoulder Unt-tzo'-ap. 

Shoulder-blade O-see'-turap. 

Show Ma/.-zap'-po-ne. 

Showing Maz-zap'-po-ing-gan. 

*^hovel Tiil'-zi-no-wab. 

Bhut  the  door Mad-zat'-tim. 

Sick Nii'-sick. 

S«old Nanect'-toop. 

Scolding Nat'.-eet'  too-un. 

Sorateli Mad-zat'-8oe-ah. 

S<»ro,  or  scared.   Mcr-roo'-(  -vcti. 

Scar Yee-ha-hap'. 

Scalping Pam'-py  tsack'-wy. 

BcisHorH Kce'-wad-zoo-guh. 

Scuttling Nah'-gwooli-\uit. 

Skui  (of  any  kind) Kni-buh'. 

Skilh't Timp'-a  tee'  (lash-irig-gan. 

Shoot Ma-gunt'. 

Shot    -n     Pee'ite. 

Sleej       . E[)'-wee,  or,  ick'-koyk, 

Sleoi-.^         .    .    Ep'-wee-8want. 

Sleei)ing Ep'-wee-cant. 

Slow O'-be-daw. 

Smoke  (of  iiie) Queek'. 

Smoke  (a  pipe,  kr.) I'uwm'  (HUi. 

Smoking  (a  pipe.  &.c.) Pii  viii -o-un. 

Smoking  (the  lire) Qiieek'-ate. 

Smell,  or  Hmelling (luun-an. 

p.;- '11  (to) El-gweet. 

t^j&v.othing-inm Tid'-iih-(piiu-iio. 

gJiO/ '. Taek-o-be. 

Bftowiug , Tttck'-o-be  weep'-iuit. 


Vf 


1 

I    ) 
,1    • 


42 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


A 


ri 


i; 


!  1.1 


EXOIJSH.  SNAKE  INDIAN. 

Siiip>-  (long-bilk-d) Coo-weeh'. 

Smith's  fork  of  Bear  river  (U.  T.). .  .Tis-Sf-ag-ga-be  o'-gwa. 

SmaU TeeHlitch. 

Son EiiHlo'-ah. 

Son-ill-law Moon'-up. 

Soap .  .Tig-goo-c-cheh. 

l^our See-goo  gnm'-niiu. 

«,,ft ^. ..  .Ka' ciit-tuh. 

Spotted Aslr-er-ab-ba. 

Sorrel  color AW-ha-pit. 

Sorrel  horse  (in  general) .\\v  -ha  co-ah 

Sorrel  mare  (in  general) Aw  -ha  pee  -ah. 

Spotted  hor      (olaek) To'  ash-or-ab-ba. 

Sjjotted  marc  ■,  ) Ti .'  aHh-er-ab-ba. 

Spotted  horse  (b.         ) TiM.p'-sliu  ash'-er-iib-ba. 

Spotted  mare  (brown) Toop  -slm  ash-er-ab-ba. 

Spotte(]  horse  (bay) Ing'-ga  ash'-e'r-alt-ba. 

Sjjottod  mare  (hay) Ing -ga  ash-or-ab-ba. 

Spotttnl  liorse  (sorrel) Aw'-ha  ash'-er-ab-ba. 

S|)otteil  mare  (sorn  1) Aw  -ha  ash-er-ab-ba, 

Spill,  or  spilt Weot  -tee-yah. 

S])ring  (of  the  year) Tam'-mnn-ne. 

Spring  (of  water,  "eold  ") Pah'  di/.-o'-pa. 

Spurs 'lid  -am-ing-gwil-ka. 

Spider Am'-nii-HoitB. 

Spanianl To  -yah  ti'-vo, 

S|)ade Tid'-/o-no'  wall. 

Spo/m Queeii-ec 

Spitlli' I'lwlon  -Bcep. 

Siniirrel  (small  brown  ones  in  pines).  Wotig-^o-rats. 

Sjuirril  (grey,  lives  in  ground) Chii).  or,  cheep. 

Sijuirrel  (I'hip-monk) Wu-it-see. 

Steal Mar-tid'-it!k. 

Stealing Mar-tid-iek. 

StoliMi Tid'-iek-up. 

Stay (ar'-did. 

Stink  or  stinking I'ish'-<i  gw>m'-nin. 

Stirrup Nah  -rah-tig'-ga. 

Stone Timp',  or,  tim|i'-ut. 

Stand Win-an. 

Stand  np Win'mn. 

Stand  aside Man'-unk  a  win'-4U\. 

Htop Keah'. 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


43 


ENGLISU.  SNAKE   INDIAN. 

String Pick-up. 

Starve  or  starving Cut-tuh  pow'-er-ee-a-cant. 

Steel  trap Haii'-o-wun. 

Steelyards Toof-sy-yah. 

Storm  or  stormy Wecp'-iint. 

Strike Mow   /ut'-tig,  or,  raar-o'-pi. 

Striped Nah'-bore. 

Star  or  sturs Tad'-ze-nmu-bo. 

Stomach Nin-ap. 

String  tlu'in  togctlior Mah-bu-sah. 

Stove Wco'-iiah  cut-taw. 

Strawberry li'g'-K'^  mag  -in-up. 

Strong Nare'-c-eut. 

Step-motlicr Nag'-a-hy  em-bco-ah. 

Stinking- Water  river Pah'  Banr-iua-riiio. 

Sun Tab -ba. 

Sunshine Tab'-ba-slio'-i-caiit. 

Sunrise Tab'ba  toy. 

Sunset 'I'ab'-ba  yako. 

Sunday I'ee'Hk  tab-l>a  (Note  GO). 

Sugar l\'c'-nah. 

Supeniaturul I'o-lio-gaut. 

Sure Tib -hitch. 

Swan Poii-(U) -sah. 

Sweet , I'ee-iiah  giiMi'-niiu. 

Sweet-Wat, T  riviT    I'ce  -nali  pub. 

Sword I'(t\v-\v(ik(>'. 

Swim I'air  liab  -ba. 

Swimming I'ah'  hub-bin. 

Sway-baeketl   Nahn'-e-kee. 

Swallow  (liird) Pah'  soc-go  eni-bei''-iiah 

Sweetbreads  (in  jiiiuials). . , , , .    ....  EM-tuk-o-miiits. 

Talk Ta-gwftii. 

Tiill , Cu-bai-oiit. 

Take  it  lilV  (<lothiiig,  kv.) D/ark'-ipii-o. 

Take  it  oil'  (packs,  kv.) Mad-/.a])'-pi. 

Tall Qiiasli, 

Tallow U-!io|.e. 

Table-ciolh Tee-i)iirrah. 

Ten Suo'-inaii-o. 


.•; 


M   ; 

I  :» 

I  ' 

■» 

"n 

1 

;  1 

i 
1 

:     1 
1 

,     1 

illi 


!J 


■■    'ill 


44 


Teeth 
Te 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


ENGIJ8H. 


a 

Tear 

That 

That  way  (in  that  manner) 

This 

This  way  (in  this  manner) . 
Throw  away,  or  to  throw  . 
Thread 


Three 

Thirteen 

Thirty 

Thnnder   

The  other  way 

The  Two  Buttes  in  Snake-river  val- 
ley, opposite  Fort  Hall 

The  bunch  of  mountains  lying  be- 
tween Black-Tailed  Deer  creek 
and  Stinking-Water  river ' 

The  Big  Butte,. just  below  the  Two  I 
Buttes  in  Snake  River  valley. .  .  .  ( 

The  Three  Tetons 

The  Butte  in  Horse  ])rairie 

The  Backbone,  on  Big-Hole  river 

Thigh 

Thumb    

Thistle-root  or  thistle 

There  is  none 

Thimble 

Th.m 

That  one 

Thick 

Thin 

Tired 

Timbtr 

Tie,  or  tied 

Too 

To.( 


SNAKE   INDUX. 

.En-tahm'. 

.Ho -bah. 

.  Mad-zas'-ee-wy. 

.Sook. 

.Soo'-wite. 

.Irk. 

.  E  -wite. 

.Mow-wee'-tah. 

.Wau'-no  tom'-ah. 

.Pite. 

.See'-man-o  pitfc  man-doy'. 

.Pite  see'-man-o. 

.Tom'-maw  yag'-ge  (Note  64). 

.Ebont. 

Wah-hy  U-gwut  (Note  65). 


(lay 


.11  ,1 


To-morrow 

Tobacco 

Tobacco-root. . . 

Tom  

TumuLuwk-pipo 


Do'-te-ya. 

Pee'-ah  Car'-<lid. 

.Tee' Win'-at(Not«  66). 
.To  Erh'-iih-ro-ne. 
.See'-nini))  (sec  Note  11). 
.En-daw -hawp. 
.Maf-tawk. 

.Tsinah,  or,  tchocn-ah  (Note  68). 
.Cay '-wot. 
.Tim-i'-ne-gah. 
.Soo'-dcnt. 
.Oo'-dent. 
.  Po'-hnn-dant. 
.Tar'-on-dit-sa. 
.  Ka  nah'-bee-nah. 
Hoi»e. 

.  Mow-witch'-kin. 
.  A-te'-ia. 

.  K-(rit-Bha  tab'-ba. 
.A -mi,  or,  ])etch'-co. 
.Pawni  (Note  61). 
,Quee  ,  or,  queu'-ah  (Note  62). 
,S('e'-wop. 
.Ho-Lau  toy. 


Und 

Und 

Unti 

Unc 

Unci 

Up 

Us.  I 


Valll 

Ver 

Vea 

VioJ 

Voi 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS 


45 


)1AN. 


cloy', 
s'ote  64). 

Jotc  65). 


66). 
«11). 

i-ub  (Note  C8). 


0. 

1  (NuU'  62). 


SKOMSH.  SNAKE   INDIAN. 

ToeB Un-das8'-e-wick. 

Toe-nails Un-dass'-eot. 

Towel Now-go'-be  dat'-se-maw. 

Toad Yaw'-gwad-zee. 

Tongue O-a'-go. 

To  like  anything  extremely  well  . . . .  Shoon'-gwe-tah. 
Tomahawk  lurk  of  Bear  river  (U.  T.).Say'-gwa  o'-gwa  (Note  63). 

To  run  a  race Nah'-re-nah'-rah. 

To  win  back  again Nee'-coy. 

Tooth-brush Tahni'-a  nah'-go-tso. 

Trail,  or  path Po'-ee. 

Trade Nare'-e-mo. 

Tripod  (to  hang  pot  on) Wcok'-to-wah  wan'-dan. 

Trunk Woo'-ban  teet'-sock. 

True Tib-bitch. 

Turtle-dove Co-ali-wee'-haw  (Note  67). 

Turnip Tchcen'-ah. 

Tub Peo'-ah  wo'-by  week'-to-wa. 

Two Wot. 

Twenty Wot  see'-man-o,  or,  wah'-mau-o. 

Twelve Soo'-nian-o  wot  raan-doy'. 

Tying  two  together Narn'-i  witch'-kin. 

To  make  fun  of  anything Nee'  hi-boo-eot. 

To  joke,  or  playfully  deceive Nee'-a-mung-gan. 

XJ 

Ugly Tcod'-zo  nah'-bo-na. 

Under Oo-rook'-un. 

Under  the  pines Won'-go  rook'-un. 

Under-sliirt Dook'-a-ni  quat.h'-ew. 

Untio Mad-zat'-too-ye. 

Uncle  (on  mother's  side) Ar'-rah. 

Uncle  (on  fatlier's  siik') Nag'-a  hy  app. 

Up  the  river Pah'-nih,  or,  park. 

Ub Tarn. 

■m  -^ 

Valley  of  Salt  river  (I.  T.) To'-sa  cor'-no  (Note  55). 

Vermillion  paint Pish'-ip. 

Veit Am'-mud-zan-e-gah. 

Violin Teo'-hee-yah  yag'-ging-gan. 

Vomit,  or,  vomiting Woet'-toyk. 


ir 


46 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


.v., 


ENGM8H.  SNAKE   INDIAN. 

Very  warm Tib'-itch-a  ce'-ra-cnt 

Very  cold Tib'-itch-a  ec'-geut.     . 

Very  good Tib'-itch-a  tzont. 

Very  bad Tib  -itch-a  ka'-tzoiit. 

Very  old Tib'-itch-a  eoo-go-puh. 

Very  angry Tib'-itch-a  to'-ho-buck. 

Very  much,  or  many Tib'-itch-a  Bhawnt. 

Very  thirsty Tah'-gwo-tcc-a. 

■w 

V^^ater Pah'.  

Want Ac-cimi'-mi-gan. 

Wagon Woo'-bau  pung'-go. 

Wait Kesh. 

Wart Ung-goo'-nieeta. 

Wash Nah'-go-tso. 

Wash-basin Nah'-go-tso  owh. 

Wash-board Teer'-ro-so-ne. 

Wash  your  hands Ini  maw  nah'-go-tao. 

Wash  your  feet Ini  namp  nah  -go-tau. 

Watermelon Pali'  tick-up. 

Water-spider Pah'  pung'-go. 

Wake,  or  wake  up Tib'-boo-e. 

Wasp Pay'-nah. 

Weber  river  (U.  T.) IIo'  o-gwa  (Note  70). 

Wet Pah  -dzoint,  nr,  pah'-gweot«hip. 

Well! Tsoh. 

What Hin. 

Wliat  are  you  (ulkiiig  about? Ilin'-a-ree-ah-whate. 

What  do  you  want? Hin  im  ac-cum'-mi-gan. 

What  arc  you  doitig  ? llin  im-a  ma-hon'. 

What  are  you  going  to  do  with  it.?..Ish  hag'-a-ny  myer'-ro. 

Where? Hak. 

Where  are  you  gouig? Im  hak'-ka-po  myer'-ro. 

Where  do  you  come  I'rom  ? Im  hak'-ka-po  myer'-ro. 

What  is  your  namo  ? Hin  im  uan'-ny-hak. 

What  are  y;>u  htoking  for? Ilin  im  a  mow'-wako. 

Wiien Him'-ba. 

Wheat Wain  tick'-up,  or,  son'-a  tick'-up. 

Whet-fitono Tim'-mah-gim-mah. 

White To'-Ha-bit. 

White  man Soo-yah'-pe. 

WhiUi  woman Soo-yah'-po  wipe. 


W( 

w 
w 
w 
w 


Ye 
Y« 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS 


47 


DIAN. 


uh. 


BO. 


70). 
ih'-gwoot-«hip. 


ito. 
li-gan. 

jr'-ro. 

fcr'-ro. 
yer'-ro. 
lak. 
t^ako. 

r,  Boii'-a  tick'-up. 
ah. 


ENGLISH.  SNAKE   INDIAN. 

Whitc-tiiilcd  deer [t-soo'-kc. 

White  horse To'-sah. 

White  mare To'sah  pcc'-ah. 

Whip Nit'-tig-wy. 

Whirlwhid Woo'-e-roy-beets. 

Whistling Co'-.sha-tiu'-a-quiii. 

Why,  or  wliat  for? ilini-hant. 

Whippoorwill Wy-ya-bo. 

Wife  (ill  general) Ung-gwih'. 

Wind Nce'-ite. 

Wild,  or  shy Nog'-gcr-bito. 

Winter Tom'-inaw. 

Windpipe Woy -yor-onk. 

Wing Ung-guss'. 

Wings  of  the  lodge Natl'-zc-pur'-rah. 

Wildcat Took'-a-bitch. 

Wild  sage Po'-ho-bit. 

Wild  currants   Aw  -ha  i)ug'-um-be. 

Willows Sa'-a-bit. 

Wife  (first  one) Pce'-a-gwih. 

Wife  (second  one) Nan'-ing-gwih. 

Wink Wut-tat-zong'-geet 

Window Nah'-bo-na. 

Willard's  creek Pish'-ah  tim'-mo-dzah  (Note  71). 

Willow  blossoms Poe'-to-rah-hak-iuit, 

Will  you  go  ? Im  how  ?  rnyer -ro. 

Will  you  go  there  ? Im  how  look-sha-myer'-ro. 

Will  you  come  ? Im  how  kim'-maht. 

Window-curtains Nah'-bo-na  it-zi'-u-ung-gah. 

Wood  (in  general) Hope. 

Wood  (to  make  a  fu'c) Coon'-ah. 

Wood-tick Mee'-tah. 

WoodpcHiker Woo'-ban  dut-tur-ag'-ga. 

Wolf Ee'-zip-ah,  or,  ee'-zip. 

Wolverine Waugh'-iio. 

Wooden  bucket VVo'-by  week'-to-wa. 

Wrestling Nah-gwooh'-uut. 

Wrong Ka'-dzont. 

Tes Hah,  or,  o'-se. 

Year Tom'-maw. 

Yellow Aw'-ha-pit,  or,  un'-dam-bcet. 


.•!! 


f:f 


si     I 


f 


I    I 


48 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


ENGLISH.  SNAKE    INDIAN. 

Yellow  head Un'-dam  pam'-pey. 

Yellow  horse Aw'-ha  co'-ah. 

Yellow  man Aw'-ha  pee'-ah. 

Yellow  sage See -bap. 

Yellowhainmer,  or  flicker An'-ning-gwee-kwee. 

Yellow-pine  tree Ing-ga-quin-e-gah. 

Yelling WaW-unt. 

Yeast  powders Tid'-o-ini-u-hali. 

Young  man Too-e-bit-sa. 

Young  woman Ni'-va. 

Yonder Ock. 

You Tin. 

Yourself Im,  or,  im'-iu-tag-gab. 

You  stay  here Im  sick-sha  car'-ra. 

You  talk  bad Iin  ka  dzont  ta'-gwan. 

Yon  sooMi'd  mc Im  uee'-ah  nan-eet'-too-un. 

You  arc  joking Im  ka  tib'-a  ta'-gwan. 

Yom*  cliiM  (male) Im  en-do '-ah. 

Your  child  (t'emalo) Im  em-ba  -dah. 

Your  horse  is  sick Im  pung'-go  nit'-sick. 

Your  dog  is  good Im  share -rih  dzont. 

Your  knife  don't  cut Im  weet  ka-gim'-mo-gaut 


^  '.  .'- 


I! 


mi 

m 

til 
ini 
ta] 


mi 


EXPLANATORY  XOTES. 


'im 


Note  1,  page  21  :  "  Ho'-ha%''— This  is  evidently  a  corrup- 
tion of  the  words  "Hope  ma-hoii',"  which  mean  the  "wood- 
cutler,"'  or  an  instrument  to  cut  or  fashion  things  of  Avood, 

Note  2,  page  21  :  "  Soo-yaV-pe."— This  name  is  applied 
to  all  Americans  by  almost  all  the  Rocky  Mountain  and 
Great  l^ashi  Indians.  I  have  never  been  able  to  discover  the 
meaning  of  the  word,  or  why  they  call  us  by  it. 

Note  3,  page  21 :  "  Maw^-wot" — means  "  ro  hands,"  and 
is  applied  to  any  awkwardness  or  unskilfulncss  in  doing  any- 
thing, just  as  we  use  the  word  "  awkward." 

Note  4,  page  21:  "  An'-ne-no-yo" — means  "ant-eggs." 
These  tire  eaten  by  all  the  Great  Basin  Indians,  and  by  some 
few  of  mountain  ones.  They  build  a  fire  on  the  ant-hill, 
which  soon  kills  all  the  ants  and  cooks  the  eggs,  which  arc 
then  (lug  out,  separateil  from  the  rubbish  and  eaten  with 
great  gusto. 

Note  5,  page  22 :  "  Quitch." — These  animals  were  once  very 
numerous  at  some  very  remote  period,  all  over  the  western 
slop(~s  of  tlu>  Rocky  mountains  and  in  the  eastern  part  of  the 
"  Great  basin,"  as  their  bones,  which  are  still  very  plenty  in 
many  localities,  testify.  The  bones  of  *hese  animals  resist 
the  action  of  the  (>lements  for  an  almost  incredible  l(>ngth  of 
time.  The  skulls,  in  particular,  are  of  an  enormov.s  thickness 
in  proportion  to  their  size,  and  all  the  rest  of  their  bones  par- 
take in  some  degree  of  this  peculiarity. 

According  to  the  Indian  traditions,  many  of  these  bones 
hiive  been  lying  on  the  surface  of  the  ground  for  over  ono 
hundred  years,  and  they  are  still  in  a  good  state  of  prescrva- 


'«• 


50 


M  O  N  T  A  N  A    A  S      I  T    I  S . 


It 


I' 


ti'  t 


!   J.i 


'1 


I 

'til 


'  if. 


Hi 


•-"    " 


■1  ..I: 


:*    : 


)!  , 


-:!. 


I. 


I  5 


I 


tion.  I  litiA'c  found  it  iiiii^ossihle  to  ascertain  tlio  exact  peri- 
od of  their  decline  in  this  vast  ri'gion,  but  it  is  very  reuiotf. 
I  am  inclined  to  think  (liat  it  Avas  caused  either  hy  a  succes- 
sion of  very  severe  Avint(.'rs,  or  by  some  disi'ase  among  them. 
Tliere  is  still  in  the  rec<'sscs  of  the  mountains  a  lew  is( dated 
bands  of  mountain  butf  ilo,  which  ditfer  slij^htly  from  the  buf- 
falo e^f  tlie  plains.  They  are  generally  a  trifle  smaller,  Avitli 
iimr,  silkier  robes  than  the  ftliers.  They  are  more  active, 
and  much  shyer,  and  more  dilticuit  to  get  a  shot  at.  They 
live  among  densely-timbered,  almost  inaccessible  mountains, 
and  in  their  habits  generally  they  are  very  similar  to  the 
moose.  I  think  that  all  of  those  that  once  lived  on  the  west- 
ern slo[»c,  were  oi  the  mountain  kind. 

At  the  i)rcsent  rate  at  which  this  noble  game  is  beiiii; 
''murdered,"  they  will  be  (Extinct  in  lifty  years.  All  whitt 
men  passing  through  the  buffal)  country,  slaughter  them  in 
a  manner  that  is  perfectly  shameful,  often  shooting  down 
hundreds  of  them  and  leaving  theni^  hide  and  all,  to  rot  on 
the  plains. 

The  Indians,  also,  incited  thereto  by  the  fur  companies, 
kill  aunually  hundreds  of  thousand;-  ::iore  than  they  want  for 
their  own  food  and  raiment,  for  the  purjjose  of  getting  tin 
robes  to  trade  to  the  whites.  It  seisms  to  be  the  destiny  ol 
the  buffalo  as  well  as  of  the  Indians,  to  become  extinct.  1 
see  'H)  way  to  stop  the  wholesale  nuuder  of  this  noblest  garni' 
in  America  (I  mean  the  buftalo,  not  the  Indians).  I  wish  it 
could  be  done. 

Note  G,  page  22  :  ''  Wood'-ah." — These  animals  appear  to 
be  of  several  diilerent  kinds  among  the  Kocky  mountains, 
and  while  they  are  very  numerous  in  some  localities,  in  others 
they  are  quite  scarce. 

Lewis  and  Clarke,  in  1805,  found  them  very  numerous  and 
ferocious  all  along  the  Missouri  river,  from  the  mouth  of  the 
Yellowstone  to  the  Gates  of  the  Mountains,  they  lrc(iuently 
attacking  and  chasing  the  men  without  any  provouatiou. 
They  had  many  very  narrow  escapes  from  them. 


in 


MONTANA      AS      IT      IS. 


51 


oxiict  pen- 
/ery  rtUK^to. 
|jy  a  siicces- 
nioiig  tlieiii. 
iV'W  isdliited 
oiu  the  bul- 
niiilkr,  with 
niovo  active, 
)t  at.  They 
mountains, 
niUir  to  th' 
on  the  weht- 

nie  is  he'nv^ 
1.  All  whitr 
hter  them  in 
ootin;:?  do-\vi! 
all,  to  rot  OP. 

r  companies, 
liey  want  for 
f  getting  till' 
lie  destiny  el 
e  extinct.  I 
noblest  ganu' 
?).     I  wish  ii 

uils  ai»pcar  to 
y  mountains, 
ties,  in  others 

ninierons  and 

mouth  of  the 

ey  freciuentlv 

provocation. 


Thoy  were  particularly  numerous  and  dangerous  about  the 
Great  falls  and  mouth  of  Sun  river.  They  are  not  so  plenty 
or  so  savage  in  those  places  now  as  they  were  in  those  days. 
Above  the  Gates  of  the  Mountains  they  were  scarce,  and  they 
are  so  at  this  day.  There  is  only  a  few  black  and  cinnamon 
bears  in  the  great  "  Plorseshoe  basin"  of  the  Jefferson  and 
its  branches,  and  in  whicli  lie  Virginia  and  Bannack  cities — 
while,  on  the  head  of  the  Marias  and  Milk  iivers,  and  for  a 
long  distance  north  along  the  liocky  mountains,  they  are 
quite  plentiful  and  v(My  savage. 

In  the  valley  of  the  Yellowstone,  they  are  very  plenty  and 
extremely  ferocious,  the  white  ou'S  being  the  worst.  I  think 
that  bears  are  more  i)lenty  and  savage  in  the  buffalo  region 
than  elsewhere. 

There  is  a  very  singular  fact  in  the  natural  history  of  these 
animals.  It  is  that  no  hunter  that  I  ever  heard  of  ever  killed  a 
she  bear  that  was  pregnant.  This  has  never  been  ex  lained 
that  1  am  aware  of  Where  they  go  during  the  time  that  they 
re  Avith  young,  remains  a  mystery  even  in  this  enlightened 
age. 

NoTK  7,  page  23:  "  Wock'-way" — means  "The  Cedar 
Butte."  It  stands  isolated  in  the  })hiinof  Snake  river  valley, 
not  far  from  the  niouth  of  Lewis  fork,  about  twelve  or  fifteen 
miles  above  where  the  road  from  G.  S.  L.  City  to  Virginia  City 
leaves  Snake  river.  It  is  thinly  covered'with  scrubby  cedars, 
and  served  the  Indians  for  a  landmark  in  their  peregrinations 
in  this  vast  valley,  before  the  days  of  roads  and  wagons,  and 
"  Wo-Haws"  and  "  God-Damns,"  as  the  Sioux  call  cattle 
and  their  drivers. 

Note  8,  page  23  :  "  Wong'-gog-way" — means  "  Fir"  or 
"Pine  river,"  and  it  is  so  called  by  the  Indians,  because  of 
the  dense  forests  of  fir  timber  covering  the  mountains  where 
it  takes  its  rise.  These  mountains  are  very  lofty,  and  present 
a  very  ])icturesque  appearance  to  the  traveller  from  the  South 
Pass  to  Fort  Bridger.  There  are  some  beautiful  little  lakes 
lying   embosomed   among   them,   on    the   head   branches  of 


■rw 


■  i 


V 


i\ 


52 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


Boacks  fork,  which  is  a  bcaiitil'ul  stream  in  and  near  the 
niount'iins,  but  before  it  readies  Creen  river,  into  v.laeh  it 
empties,  it  passes  th;-onn;h  eloy  hills  or  •'  table  lands,"  or  what 
is  calleil  ''  mesas"  in  Mexico  and  Arizona,  and  wliirh  \\\  tliis 
reirion  are  eallt  d  "  mauvaise  terres"  1?r  "  bad  lands"  bv  the 
French  anu  America:;  mountaineers,  wliieh  (the  "  bad  lands,"' 
not  the  nioantaineeVs)  give  it  a  yellow  color,  and  miike  it  \ia- 
tit  to  use  after  a  rain  storm,  it  then  being  of  about  the  con- 
sistency of  thin  soup,  and  not  half  so  palatable. 

There  is  plenty  of  trout  in  the  stream  among  and  near  the 
mountains,  but  iho  "bad  lands"  play  them  out. 

Fort  l>riilger  is  siruateil  on  this  stream  near  wliere  it  caters 
the  bad  lands,  and  was  a  h)vely  place  in  the  days  when  "  Old 
Jim  Ih'idger"  livid  liere  and  was  lord  of  all  he  surveyed,  and 
some  that  he  didn't  survey.  The  finest  and  most  numerous 
clusters  of  wild  roses  (a  tlower  that  I  have  a  jjartieular  wi'ak- 
ness  fur,  bv  the  wav)  that  ever  1  saw  were  along  the  iiv(>r  in 
the  vicinity  of  Fort  Bridger,  when  I  passed  there  in  duly, 
1852,  "'eu  route"  to  I'aliforiiia. 

But  iiov.-,  alas,  the  Gmhs  and  Vandals  uf  civili/ation  (i.  e. 
the  enii;;rant>i)  have  almost  exterminated  the  beautiful  groves 
of  cottonwoods  that  onee  fringtd  its  banks,  and  their  vast 
annual  swarms  of  stock  have  devoured  the  grass  yi'ar  after 
year  till  it  has  (i[uit  growing  out  of  sheer  despair  uf  over 
reaching  maturity,  and  they  have  browsid,  trodden  dov.ii, 
and  almost  worn  ovit  the  fine  growth  of  willows  that  once 
lineil  the  stream,  leaving  a  dismal  waste  whcv  uiiee  a  beauti- 
ful lan'Isea})e  made  gVid  the  heart  of  the  wandering  tra]iper 
and  hunter. 

I'hiiigranfs  in  geu' ral  have  about  as  much  ai)j)reeiatioii  of 
the  many  and  varied  beaut ies  ^4^  the  vast  jianorama  that 
passes  l»,'fore  their  eyes  during  their  lung  and  weary  journey 
towaids  the  Italy  of  America  (as  California  should  be  called) 
as  the  herds  ot  stock  they  driv(>.  The  eireumstanei's,  how- 
«ver,  uii(l(  r  which  most  of  them  cross  the  plains  are  not  con- 
ducive to  a  nice  appreciation  of  either  romantic  ov  desert 
scenery.     They  toil  along,  weary,  footsore,  and  completely 


f* 


i 


i 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


63 


worn  out,  half  cliokcd  -witii  clouds  of  alkali  dust,  and  vtrv 
"icd-oycd"  fVeui  the  sami'  a^gravatiu;^"  c  lUip^und,  hoarse 
with  bawliu'^-  at  their  refractory  cattle,  oath  individual  ox 
of  which  suifcrs  aliout  twenty-five  thousand  di'aths  from 
thirst,  starvation,  and  ill-troalnieni,  in  ciossini!;  the  ])lains 
whose  surface  is  whitened  with  the  bones  of  tin  ir  uufortu- 
nati'  ]ircdeccssorH. 

All  these  things  are  eminently  calculated  to  work  a  man 
up  to  th"  highest  jtitcli  of  exasjieration,  and  make  him  look 
on  Dame  Nature  with  a  jaundiced  eye. 

On*.'  thing  is  certain,  a  man  who  can  cross  the  ]dains  and 
drive  an  ox-team  without  s^vearing  is  fit  to  go  to  heaven 
riglit  nfV.  Innunierahle  ])reachers  have  rashly  tiied  it,  and 
tiiey  all  came  out  of  the  terrible  ordeal  completely  "  demoral- 
ized." 

1  have  seen  sonic  of  them,  soon  after  tluiir  arrival  at  the 
mines,  engaged  in  dealing  "  monte,"  '•  thind)le-rig,"  '•ehuck- 
a-luck,"  and  various  other  ganu  s,  besides  taking  a  "  snifter" 
wilii  as  good  a  grace  as  anybody.    Alas,  poor  human  nature  ! 

Fori  J^iiiiger  is  somewhat  noted  as  the  wint  'ing  place 
during  the  winter  of  1857-8  of  the  army  seni  out  to  Utah 
to  subdue  the  inciiiient  rebellion  of  the  "  soi-disant,"  "  Jiat- 
ter-Day  Saints."  This  army  was  comiu'  nded  by  Colonel, 
al'leiv, ards  (Jeueral  A.  S.  Johnson,  who  joined  the  rebels  on 
the  bi(aking  out  of  tlu>  civil  war  in  18(11,  and  was  killed  at 
the  battle  of  rittsburg  Landing,  or  Sliiloh,  in  Tennessee. 

NoTH  1),  page  23*  "  Har -ne  (iii-bami»  o-gwa"' — means 
•'  Beaverhead  river,"  and  is  known  altogether  among  the 
trappers  and  mountaineers  by  that  name.  It  was  called  Jef- 
ferson's fork  of  the  Missouri  river,  by  Lewis  and  (/larke's  ex- 
pedition, who  ascended  it  in  boats  in  the  sunmier  of  1805,  to 
tlie  lower  end  of  *'  Jlorse  jtrairie,"  near  whei'e  the  town  of 
Bannacic  City  now  stands.  It  is  laid  down  on  nearly  all  maiis 
as  Jelferson's  river.  It  takis  its  name  from  a  ]>oinl  of  rocks  on 
the  noitii  bank,  about  fifteen  miles  above  the  ninulb  'il'  Big 
Hole  river,  called  by  the  Indians  from  time  imniemnrial, 
"The    Beaverhtfad,"    Ixn-ause   viewed    from  a  certain   point 


i: 


3'l 


li  1% 


54 


M  O  XT  A  .'^  A      AS      IT     IS. 


■I 


tllC 


itliof  Stinl<iii<r-Water,  i 


t  hears  a  striking  rcsem- 


)  (ji 


■I 

•V    111 


ii 


near  tnc  mouth ot  wtinkuig-' 
blance  to  the  head  of  that  animal. 

This  river  is  the  north  fork  of  tlie  tliree  forks  of  tlu^  Mis- 
souri, anil  (bains  the  '* Horseshoe  basin"  of  iho  Rocky  moun- 
tains, in  which  ho  the  "  Phiccr"  and  quiirtz;  mines  of  Virginia 
Citv,  Bannaek  City.  Ibitth'snake  creek,  Ram's-Horn  creek. 
Bianduii.  llouhh'r  creek,  Prickly  Pear  creik,  Silver  creek,  and 
many  other  ])laces  of  minor  importance.  Tlii;^  large  basin  has 
many  isolated  spurs  and  bunches  of  mountains  scattered  about 
in  it.  whi(>h  are  known  to  be  ricii  in  gold,  silver,  cojipcn-,  lead, 
quicksilver,  and  coal.  In  fact  I  am  fully  satisfied  that  tliis 
region  is  as  rich  in  all  the  precious  minerals  as  Washoe,  Ari- 
zonia,  or  Colorado. 

The  principal  branches  ]nitting  into  tlie  Beaverhead  river 
on  the  tMvtli  side,  are  North  Hiiui(h>r  creek,  Pipestone  creek, 
White-T;ul(!d  Deer  creek.  Big- Holt;  river,  Rattlesnake  creek, 
and  Willard's  creek.  The  princi])al  branches  ])utting  into 
the  Bciiverliead  river  on  the  south  side,  aro  South  B(tnUler 
creek.  Willow  creek,  St  inking- \Vater  river,  Black-Tailed  Deer 
creek,  and  Red  Rock  creek. 

There  is  a  huge  extent  of  available  farniing  land  along  thi^ 
Beaverhead  and  its  branches,  but  there  is  a  scarcity  of  tim- 
ber along  the  streams,  and  what  there  is  is  entirely  a  scrubby 
species  of  Cottonwood,  calh d  "bitter  cnttonwood,"  wiiicli  de- 
cays very  rajjitlly.  The  timber  on  tin'  mountains  is  not  very 
plenty,  and  ennsists  of  scrultby  fir,  and  a  spe(;ies  of  white  piuo, 
and  a  fe\\^  scrubby  cedars. 

It  is  thought  that  tin'  jMissmn-i  river  will  l)e  navigable  f(»r 
light-draught  steamboats  as  far  as  (lallatin  City  (a  small  vil- 
lage situated  at  the  junction  of  the  Three  forks  of  the  Mis- 
Bouri,  and  ir\  whith  I  doji't  own  any  lots),  provideil  they  make 
a  portage  of  about  twenty  miles  amnnd  the  (Jreat  falls,  a  short 
distajice  above  Fort  Benton,  and  remove  a  led"-e  (-f  Ix'd-rock 
and  about  twenty  islands  that  ol)sfiuct  tlu^  chamiel  above  the 
falls. 

NoTF,  10,  pi\n;o23'  "Weo'-in-dappi" — means 'Hhe  iron- 
striker." 


t1 


[^ 


MONTANA      AS     IT     IS. 


55 


NoTK  11,  pa,L!;e  24  :  "  See  -iiiinp  (/-gwa" — means  "  Buffalo 
Hump  river,"  ami  is  so  callcfl  from  t\w  singular  ridj^c  of  rocks 
known  as  the  ''Backbone"  among  the  whites,  and  eallinl 
"  See'-nimp"  or  ''  Buffalo  Hump"  among  the  Indians,  which 
lies  on  the  south  bank  of  the  river,  about  twelve  miles  above 
its  mouth,  and  forms  a  notable  landmark  in  the  Beaverhead 
valley.  It  irf  about  a  mile  and  a  half  in  length,  counting  the 
portion  on  the  north  bank  of  the  riv(n',  which  breaks  through 
it  near  its  northern  end.  It  runs  northeast  and  southwest, 
and  rises  from  six  hundri'd  to  on(>  thousand  feet  above  the 
plain,  and  is  very  abrupt  and  iirecijiitous  on  the  side  facing  the 
southeast,  while  on  the  northwest  .side  it  d(  scends  in  a  suc- 
cession of  rocky  ridges  resembling  waves  of  the  sea.  There  are 
a  few  stunted  cedars  growing  upon  it.  It  was  the  fall  and 
winter  residence  of  nuiny  bands  of  mountain  slue]),  before  the 
advent  of  the  whites,  who  have  abt)ut  finished  them.  In  fact 
the  game  is  rapidly  becoming  extinct,  owing  to  the  indiscrim- 
inate "  murder"  of  it,  in  and  out  of  season.  It  made  me  mad 
to  see  the  shameful  manner  in  which  the  people  of  every  class 
hunted  down  and  kilh  il  game  of  all  kinds  during  the  [last 
winter,  when  it  was  absolutidy  too  poor  for  aiiybody  to  cat. 
Kvery  cabin  had  thri'o  or  foiu'  deer  and  (Ik,  &c.,  hangiisi;:  on 
it,  which  toward  s[)ringwere  thrown  away.  Many  thousands 
Wire  killed  and  thrown  away  ;  very  few  of  the  hii'  even  were 
saved. 

This  river  is  from  fifty  to  seventy-live  yards  wide  at  low 
water,  and  much  larger  when  high.  It  has  a  very  swift  cur- 
rent, tind  is  obstructed  by  numerous  islands,  and  wIk  n  high 
during  the  sjiring  and  summer,  caused  by  the  midting  of  the 
snow,  which  falls  to  a  gn^at  depth  in  the  viciidty  of  its  source, 
it  is  very  dangerous  crossing  it.  It  is  tolerably  well  tindnred 
with  Cottonwood  in  the  bottoms  along  its  banks,  but  Ihent  is 
very  little  firming  land,  \hc  greater  jxirt  of  it  being  rocky, 
sterile,  and  su])ject  to  overflow.  The  lir  timber  on  the  moun- 
tains along  its  course  is  scrubby  until  near  its  sinirce,  where 
it  runs  through  a  large  valley,  called  "  Big-Hole  prairie,"  a 
large  portion  of  which  is  rnaishy,  and  it  lies  too  high  to  bo 


t, 


!t'':*. 


.  fi 


56 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


iM 


availablo  for  tarmiiig-  purixjsi's.  It  aff  u'ds  spU'ii.lid  pasturago 
durinf  tlio  summer  and  tall,  and  al)i>unds  in  beaver  and 
moose.  There  is  also  a  lew  mountain  buiialo  in  the  moun- 
tains which  surround  the  valley  like  a  vast  ampitheatre. 

There  has  been  sonic  mining  de  e  in  the  small  streams  at 
the  head  of  this  valley,  but  the  diggings  do  not  a})pear  lo  be 
extensive. 

Lewis  and  Clark«\  those  bravo  old  i)ionecra,  type  of  a  class 
now  fast  becoming  extinct,  ascended  this  river  (which  they 
named  \7isdoui  river)  for  some  distance  in  their  boats  in 
1805,  supposing  it  to  be  the  main  stream,  but  they  found  the 
current  so  very  rapid  and  the  channel  so  much  obstructed  by 
numerous  islandsj  that  they  turned  back  and  went  up  the 
Beaverhead  river. 

This  river  d(  rives  its  nanit."  of  "  r>ig-Hole,"  from  a  valley 
on  the  head  of  it,  called  "Le(Jrand  Trou,"  by  the  old  French 
mountaineers,  and  whieh  literally  translated  is  "The  Big 
Hole."  They  fre([uently  call  a  basin  or  valloy  surrounded  by 
high  mountains  by  this  name. 

dust  above  the  'VP)ackbone,"  and  extending  uj)  the  river 
eight  oi-  nine  mik's,  is  one  of  th(!  thret*  places  in  this  piA't  of 
the  Rocky  mountains  whert^  snow  seldom  \'u:h  on  the  ground 
mor(>-  thiin  six  or  seven  days  at  a  time.  We  wintered  at  this 
])laee  in  the  winter  of  1857,  and  cattle  and  horses  that  were 
very  })()or  in  the  fall,  were  in  excellent  oKhr  in  the  spring. 
Christmas  day  was  warm  and  ]ileasant  enoU'j,h  to  render  a 
coat  umiecessary.  (iame  was  abundant  at  that  time,  but  it 
is  getting  veiy  scarce  now. 

One  ]»eculiarily  of  the  streams  in  the  Beaverhead  basin 
is,  that  there  are  very  few  lish  in  them.  Trout  in  itarlieular 
are  very  scarce. 


(( 


ai 


Largo  yellow  ruttlesnak<'H,  however,  are  very  ])lenty  in  the 
basin,"  and  in  the  vicinity  of  Boulder  and  Crow  cwvU,  where 
V  seveial  thus  of  these  "animals"  (as  Lewis  and  Clarke 
call  lliem,  iiiiil  mosfpiitoes,  j'iid  bugs,  and  toads,  luul  gei'se, 
ami  chickens,  ifec,  in  their  journal  which  seems  v(My  strange). 
They  will  average  about  one  to  the  square  rod. 


cu 
th 
til 

be 

is 
its 


w; 
th 

CO 

T 

eil 


t<3 

la 

jn- 

|at 
Il.e 

lass 

111 
th(3 

tlio 


MONTANA    AS     IT     IS. 


57 


Deer  Lod^c,  on  the  contmiy,  enjoys  u  singular  exemption 
from  these  ivptilcs,  for  during  a  residence  in  it  of  three  years, 
I  never  saw  one,  or  knew  of  one  being  killed  in  tl<o  valley 
proi)er. 

There  are  hut  two  or  three  other  kinds  of  snakes  in  tlie 
Kucky  mountains,  and  they  are  harmless  and  scarce.  There 
are  some  scori)ions,  hut  they  are  not  very  venomous. 

Mosquitoes  are  not  very  plenty,  except  in  certain  localities? 
and  they  do  most  of  their  biting  in  daylight,  as  the  niglits 
are  so  cold  that  they  have  to  go  to  roost  soon  after  dark. 

Note  12,  page  25:  "  Kon'-ah"—"  Bitter-root,"  a  small 
plant  having  a  very  ])rotty  flower  in  June.  The  root  is  about 
three  inches  long,  and  one  quarter  of  an  inch  in  diameter, 
and  very  often  forked.  It  grows  in  many  of  the  valleys  in 
the  1-Joeky  mountains,  l)nt  it  particularly  abounds  in  the 
"  Bitter-lioot  valley,"  which  takes  its  name  from  this  cir- 
cunislanco.  It  forms  no  inconsidcrablt!  item  of  food  among 
the  Indians.  The  Flat-IL^ads  in  particular  dig  large  quan- 
tities of  it  (that  is  the  s(|uaws  do)  in  May,  when  it  is  at  its 
best,  and  dry  it.  It  will  then  keep  for  years  if  kept  dry.  It 
is  very  nutritious,  l)ut  has  an  exceedingly  bitter  taste,  hence 
its  name.  I  never  could  ("i,t  it  unless  very  hungry,  but  many 
of  the  mountaineers  are  very  fond  of  it. 

Note  13,  page  25:  "  To'-sa  bo'-gah" — a  small  species  of 
water  birch,  which  grows  along  tlie  streams  in  many  parts  of 
the  mountains  ;  it  bears  an  insipid  tasting  berry  of  a  whitish 
color,  but  in  shajx)  and  substance  resembling  a  black  haw. 
This  wood,  when  burning,  eitlier  in  a  dry  or  green  state, 
emits  a  very  strong  odor  jaccisely  like  human  excrement. 

I  have  often  amiiseil  myself  by  keej)ing  a  *•'  poking  stick" 
of  this  wood,  and  wlnm  strangers  lame  in,  ])ol<e  the  tire  till 
the  stick  began  to  burn,  and  then  set  it  up  in  a  cornel',  and  see 
tliem  b(>gin  to  snulf  and  examine  their  feet  and  clothes  to 
iiiid  out  where  the  infernal  .■-niell  came  from.  When  told 
that  it  was  the  wood,  Ihey  would  hardly  believe  it. 


58 


MONTANA      AS      IT     IS, 


Note  14,  page  25  :  "  Ing'-ga  hawmp."  Those  berries 
grow  upon  a  very  thorny  scrubby  kiml  of  tree,  or  rather  large 
bush,  growing  in  the  Green  river  country,  along  the  Hum- 
bohlt  river,  ami  in  many  other  places  in  the  "  Great  basin," 
and  along  the  streams  in  the  principal  valleys  of  the  Rocky 
mountains.  These  berries  are  about  half  the  size  of  a  com- 
mon wild  currant,  and  of  a  light  red  color,  and  they  ripen 
in  Augnst  and  September,  but  stay  or,  the  bushes  till  the 
birJs  pick  them  ol^',  or  till  the  middle  of  winter.  They  have 
an  agreeable  {piquant  sour  taste,  which  cannot  be  extinguished 
by  putting  four  limes  their  bulk  of  sugar  with  thcni ;  in- 
stead of  the  sugar  sweetening  them,  they  make  the  sugar 
sour.  These  bushes,  if  properly  cultivated,  would  make  good 
hedges. 

Note  15,  page  25  :  "  Toiig'-go  rik'-kah" — means  "  rattle- 
snake eaters,"  and  they  are  so  called,  because  they  kill  and 
eat  every  one  of  these  reptiles  that  they  can  find.  These 
birds  are  not  very  numerous  in  the  Rocky  mountains. 

Notk  1(),  page  25  :  "  Yam'-])ah"— This  is  wliat  the  Snakes 
call  the  Comanches,  of  which  they  are  either  the  ])arents  or 
descendants,  for  the  two  languages  are  nearly  the  same,  and 
they  readily  understand  each  other,  and  say  that  they  were 
once  one  penpU — but  I  have  neverljeen  able  to  ascertain  if  they 
have  any  traditions  among  them  in  regard  to  how  they  be- 
came divided. 

Note  17,  page  26 :  "  Pah'-see'-go" — means  "  water,  or 
swamp  seego,"  so  called,  because  it  grows  in  low  swampy 
lands,  while  the  "  seego"  proper  grows  on  high  lands.  It 
is  a  bulbous  root  about  the  hv/a^.  of  a  ])lum.  It  has  a  sweet 
gummy  taste,  and  is  very  nutrilious.  It  forms  an  important 
item  of  food  among  the  Indians  from  here  to  the  Pacific 
ocean.  Thtsy  dig  it,  cook  it  in  k.dlles,  and  dry  it,  when  it  be- 
comes very  hard,  and  will  k(;ep  for  years  if  ke[»t  dry.  It  is 
also  very  good  boiled  when  freshly  dug. 

White  men,  Indians,  Oregonians,  and  Hogs,  are  very  fond 
of  it.     It,  is  very  abundant  in  Oregon,  and  was  an  imiiortant 


li , 


m 


s. 


jrONTANA      AS     IT     IS. 


59 


|ICS 

11- 
>> 

Jky 

Ira- 

kn 

the 

live 

lied 

in- 


avticle  of  food  to  the  first  settlors.  Hence,  they  derive  their 
'' sobriquet"  of  "cainus  catiM's/' "  camus"  being  tlie  name 
that  the  root  is  known  by  among  the  whites. 

Oregonians  are,  however,  better  known  by  the  name  of 
"  Webfeet,"  This  name  originated  in  this  way  :  It  rains  in 
Oregon  about  seven  months  in  the  year,  and  I  am  informed 
by  several  "reliable  gentlemen,"  tliat  through  constant  wad- 
ing in  tlie  water  during  that  })eriod,  "webs"  finally  grow  be- 
tween the  toes  of  the  unfortunate  inhabitants,  who  may  be 
f  irever  after  known  by  a  habit  tliey  have  of  dismounting  (the 
Oregonian  never  walks,  if  the  distance  exceeds  one  lumdred 
yards)  fri»m  their  horses,  and  wading  in  every  swamp  along 
their  route  to  moisten  the  webs  between  their  toes  to  keep 
them  from  drying  up  and  becoming  painful. 

NoTK  18,  page  26  :   "  Coo-weeli'." — The  Indians  evidently 
derive  their  name  of  the  bird  from  its  cry,  which  is  very  sim- 
ilar in  sound.     They  are  viry  numerous  in  the  spring  and 
l^  summer   in    most   of  the  valleys  in   the   Rocky  mountains. 

Some  people  have  a  beastly  habit  of  shooting  them,  that  I 
am  "  down  on." 

NoTK  19,  i)age  27  :  "  Tin'-so-an'-e-cant" — means  a  gorge 
or  deiile,  a  place  where  mountains  or  hills  approach  each  oth- 
er closely,  leaving  a  narrow  rugged  way  between.  It  is  gen- 
erally used  in  connection  with  places  on  streams  where  the 
hills  and  mountains  close  in  on  the  banks  on  each  side  ;  but 
it  is  also  used  in  connection  with  places  where  there  is  no 
water. 

The  word  "canon"  is  Spanish,  and  shouhl  always  be  spelt 
as  above.  It  is  pronounced  "kan'-yon,"  and  most  of  Amci- 
caiiH  have  adopted  the  detestable  habit  of  writing  it  "kan'- 
yon."  When  wo  do  ad(ipt  a  word  from  any  other  language 
for  Avant  of  one  as  good  in  our  own,  we  should  always  adopt 
it  in  its  purity,  and  not  manufacture  some  horrible  distortion 
of  it  for  common  use. 

NoTR  20,  page  27:    "Tt-soo'-ke  on  car'-ne" — means  the 
"  White-Tailed  Deer's  Lodge,"  and  is  so  called  by  Indians 


M 


60 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


because  the  aforesaid  deer  wore  very  abundant  of  old  in  tlie 
brushy  bottoms  in  its  vicinity.  The  valk^y  derives  its  name 
from  this  butte,  \v)i.ii;'.i  is  a  singular  formation  standing  in  the 
centre  of  the  upj)er  half  of  the  vaUey.  It  is  a  sugarloaf 
mound,  about  tliirty  ieet  high  and  the  same  in  diameter, 
around  the  base  of  which  are  innumerable  springs,  varying  in 
temperature  from  ice  cold  to  boiling  hot.  On  top  of  the 
mound  is  a  spring  three  feet  in  diameter  and  of  considerable 
dej)th,  which  does  not  run  over  and  is  almost  boiling  hot. 
The  mound,  which  forms  a  notable  object  in  the  valley,  is 
com]iosed  of  a  singular  kind  of  stone  resembling  iron  rust  and 
of  a  iiighly  crystalline  structure.  It  has  evidently  been  de- 
posited by  the  spring  on  its  summit  wiiicli  has  been  raised  to 
its  present  height  in  this  matuier.  It  stands  about  two  hun- 
dred yards  north  of  Warm  Spring  creek,  a  branch  oi'  ''I)t>er 
Lodge  creek,"  and  is  surrounded  by  a  small  marsh  caused  by 
the  many  si*rings.  The  marsh  is  elevated  a  few  feet  above 
the  surrounding  plain.  In  the  neighborhood  of  the  "Lodge" 
is  the  second  place  in  the  Eoeky  mountains  where  snow  never 
lies  more  than  a  few  davs  at  a  time. 

The  valley  of  tin;  Deer's  Lodge  will  be  available  for 
forming  purposes  with  the  exception  of  the  more  delicate 
kinds  of  vegetables.  There  is  very  little  timber  in  the  valley, 
but  the  mountains  surrounding  it  are  well  timbered.  This 
valley  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  the  mountains,  and  it  is 
famous  for  two  things.  One  is  that  mountain  trout  are  m(»re 
plenty  in  it  than  in  any  other  i)lace  of  the  same  extent  in  the 
world.  I  do  not  know,  however,  but  I  had  better  say  ivcre 
more  plenty,  for  vast  quantities  of  them  have  been  caught  in 
the  last  year,  a  large  portion  of  which  were  allowed  to  spoil 
and  were  thrown  away. 

If  the  k^gislatuie  does  not  enact  some  laws  in  regard  to 
game  and  lish,  there  will  not  be  in  a  few  years  so  much  as  a 
minnow  or  a  deer  left  alive  in  all  the  ti'rritory. 

The  trout  will  bite  at  almost  any  kind  of  bait  at  any  time 
of  yeai-,  yet  some  "  barharians"  have  used  seines  and  dragged 
out  these  beautiful  citizens  of  the  brook  by  the  wagon  load. 


?^ 


MONTANA     AS     IT     I 


61 


Oh,  fie  !  for  shame  !  Every  stream  in  the  valley  that  is  large 
enough  for  a  trout  to  turn  in,  contains,  to  use  an  expression 
tliat  I  liavc  not  heard  used  since  1  was  a  boy,  "  lots  and  gobs 
of  'em." 

There  is  a  lake  on  the  head  of  Rock  creek  at  the  lower  end 
of  the  valley,  tliat  literally  swarms  with  these  "  purty  little 
critturs,"  as  I  heard  them  calli;d  the  other  day. 

This  lake  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  about  a  miln  and  a 
iialf  lonui;,  and  half  a  mile  wide,  of  an  irregular  oval  shape. 
It  lies  at  about  two  thousand  feet  above  the  vallev  and  has 
evidently  been  caused  by  an  enormous  landslide  or  avalanche, 
which  choked  up  the  canon  on  the  creek  and  backed  the  wa- 
ter U])  till  it  formed  the  lake. 

This  slide  has  a  plateau  at  the  lowc  end  and  northwestern 
side  of  the  lake  of  eighty  or  one  hundred  acres  in  extent, 
which  is  a  perfect  little  paradise  in  summer,  it  is  covered 
with  a  beautiful  species  of  white  pine  without  any  under- 
brush, and  ()(H-asioual  openings  in  which  stand  beautiful 
clumps  of  wiUows,  while  all  underfoot  is  carpeted  with  long 
silky  bear  grass. 

IinmiMliately  after  issuing  from  the  lake,  the  creek  forms  a 
series  of  rapids  and  cascades  over  masses  of  huge  granite 
bouhk'rs,  making  a  descent  in  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of 
over  fifteen  liundred  feet. 

There  is  another  small  lake  on  a  small  ereek  that  ]»uts  into 
the  Heilgate  river  on  the  north  side  about  twenty-lhree  miles 
behtw  the  village  of  "Cottonwood."  The  stream  is  quite 
small,  not  affording  more  than  two  or  three  sluice-heads  of 
water,  and  as  usual,  the  lake  has  been  formed  by  a  landslide, 
filling  up  the  clnuuud  just  below  where  it  forks  and  causing 
the  water  to  back  up  one  fork  about  f  )ur  hundred  yards  and 
up  the  other  about  live  hundreil,  thus  forming  an  L-sha[)ed 
lake.  It  has  probably  not  been  more  than  a  hundred  years 
since  tho  lake  was  formed,  for  there  are  many  stumps  of  trees 
standing  in  it  and  projecting  from  a  few  inches  to  several  feet 
above  the  water,  where  tiie  wind  has  broken  them  off  many 
years  after  they  perished  by  drowning.     The  water  is  not 


1: 


G2 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


•     \ 


:} 


more  than  forty  or  fifty  feet  deep  in  tlie  deepest  part,  and 
much  of  it  is  not  more  than  from  ten  to  twelve  feet  dt-ep. 

The  trout  in  this  lake  are  very  large  and  jilentj-  of  them  ; 
some  of  them  wcigli  over  four  pounds,  and  they  bite'  ravenous- 
ly ;  a  friend  of  niini^  even  going  so  far  as  to  assert  that  they 
chased  him  into  the  pine  woods  and  bit  at  his  spm's  as  he  was 
runnhig,  but  he  is  givt-n  to  joking.  This  lake  lies  embosomed 
among  high  mountains  which  are  densely  wooded,  and  are  the 
home  during  the  spring  and  sunmier,  of  a  consideracle  num- 
ber of  deer,  mountain  shciep,  and  elk.  In  the  winter  there  is 
nothing  except  mountain  grouse  which  abound  at  all  times, 
and  are  a  great  nuisance  to  the  hunter,  as  they  sit  concealed 
in  the  dense  fir  branch^  s  until  you  get  immediately  under 
them,  when  they  buTit  out  with  a  tlijj-tlop-whir'r  that  scares 
you  out  of  half  a  year's  growth,  and  makes  you  think  that 
half  the  treis  in  the  woods  are  falling  on  you,  and  puts  all 
the  game  within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  on  its  guard.  Many  of 
them  have  1  slain  for  this  same  trick. 

The  other  thing  that  Di'er  Lodge  is  famous  for,  is  being  a 
good  grazing  and  stock-raising  country.  I  think  its  natural 
advantages  in  this  resj)ect  can  iu»t  be  excelled  in  the  world. 
The  valley,  tlie  hills,  and  the  base,  and  in  some  places  far  up 
the  sides  o^  the  mountains,  are  covered  with  a  heavy  growth 
of  bunch-grass,  and  there  are  numerous  creeks  of  ])ure  ice 
cold  water,  coming  out  of  the  mountains  on  all  sides,  cattle 
and  horses  winter  in  this  valley  without  any  shelter  or  feed 
exc(>pt  such  as  they  get  on  the  jtrairie,  and  they  come  out  fat 
in  the  s])ring.  I  have  seen  cattle  butchered  in  Deer  Lodge 
in  March,  that  had  wintered  in  this  manner  that  were  abso- 
lutely too  fat  to  eat,  and  the  greater  part  of  them  were  ren- 
dered out  into  tallow,  'fhis  is  i)artly  owing  to  the  great  ele- 
vation, and  the  dryness  of  the  atmosj)here,  which  causes  all 
the  animals  to  secrete  more  tallow  than  in  other  climates, 
and  j)iiitly  to  the  (extraordinary  richness  of  the  grass  all 
through  the  K  )cky  mountains.  The  bunch-grass  in  this  re- 
gion j)osses8es  the  strange  property  of  coming  to  life  every 
spring  ;  it  bocotnes  dry  and  apparently  dead  in  the  fall,  l)ut 


U 


MONTANA      AS     IT     IS. 


63 


is- 

r 

[as 
ed 
he 


r 


in  the  spring  all  the  pnncipal  stalks  and  hranihcs  become 
green  as  the  sap  rises  in  them,  and  only  the  tips  and  extremi- 
ties become  rotten  and  drop  off.  This  seems  alm(3st  incredi- 
ble, but  I  speak  from  my  own  observation,  and  know  it  to  be 
Six  I  am  inclined  to  think  the  bunch-grass  in  Colorado, 
California,  and  Oregon,  possesses  the  same  peculiarity,  but 
I  dill  not  notice  it  while  in  those  countries. 

The  valley  of  the  Deer's  Lodge  is  about  thirty-five  miles 
long,  with  an  average  wiilth  of  about  ten  miles,  and  it 
is  drained  by  the  Deer's  Lodge  river  and  its  braviclus,  but  at 
the  lower  end  of  the  valhy  when  "  Little  Bhicklbot"  now 
conies  in  from  the  east  and  llock  creek  frum  the  west,  it 
changes  its  name  to  Ilcllgate  river,  and  its  course  from 
n'irth  to  northwest.  It  flows  ihrouyh  low  hills,  thickly 
covered  with  bunch-grass,  back  to  the  mountains  on  each 
siile,  a  iHstance  varying  from  two  to  eight  miles.  In  these  hills 
in  the  vicinity  of  "  Gold  creek"  there  are  placer  gold  mines  of 
considerable  richness,  and  I  think,  extensive.  The  livir  flows 
through  these  hills  for  thirty-two  miles,  with  many  beauti- 
ful and  fertile  bottonis  along  its  course,  while  the  mountains 
are  clothed  with  excellent  timber;  it  then  enters  '"Hell- 
gate  canon"  through  which  it  flows  for  forty  miles,  receiv- 
ing on  the  way  several  streams,  one  of  which  on  the  south 
sifle  called  Ivoek  creek  runs  with  extreme  velocity,  and  fur- 
nishes a  large  body  of  water,  which  during  the  spring  ireshets 
brings  down  a  large  quantity  of  round  smooth  boulders, 
which  it  deposites  on  the  bottoms  at  its  mouth,  fifteen  miles 
below.  '■  Big  Blackfoot"  river  comes  in  from  the  east  and 
north.  It  heads  near  Lewis  and  Chiike's  pass  of  the  Kocky  moun- 
tains, wiiere  Capt.  l^ewis  crossed  with  ten  men  as  the  expe- 
dition was  returning  to  the  states  in  180G.  Five  miles  below 
Big  Blackfoot,  the  river  enters  llellgate  "  ronde"  or  valley, 
where  it  forms  a  junction  with  the  Bittor-lloot  river,  which 
ctmies  from  the  south  through  the  valley  of  the  same  name, 
which  is  some  seventy  or  eighty  miles  in  length,  and  in  which 
is  situated  Fort  O'Tn,  about  twenty  miles  abi)ve  which  is 
tho  third  place  iu  these  mountains  whore  snow  never  lies 


ii  I       I 


64 


MONT  ANA     AS     IT      IS. 


long  at  a  time.  These  two  valleys  (if  that  can  he  calhd  two 
which  loolcs  like  one)  are  unsurpassed  for  farming  or  grazing 
purposes,  and  are  hotter  tinihen  d  than  the  most  of  the  country 
south  and  east  of  tliem.  The  moist  winds  of  the  Pacific 
ocean  reach  the  RoclvV  mountahis  along  here,  and  farther 
north,  and  cause  vegetation  of  all  kinds,  pines  in  particular, 
to  flourish  luxuriantly. 

The  origin  of  the  name  "Hellgate,"  as  applied  to  the 
river  and  canon,  is  most  prohaldy  derived  from  the  form  of 
the  canon  itself,  for  where  it  enters  the  valley,  it  is  very  nar- 
row and  tlic  mountains  on  each  side  are  very  high,  making  it 
appear  like  a  vast  chasm  extending  into  the  hosom  of  the 
mountains. 

Note  21,  page  27  :  "  Ka  Shnme'-hau-ner." — This  word  is 
used  in  the  same  sense  and  just  about  as  often  as  "  quien 
sahe"  among  the  Mexicans,  or  "  Je  ne  sais  pas"  among  the 
French. 

Note  22,  page  27  :  "  Nin'-um-hee." — This  is  a  very  sin- 
gular superstition,  among  the  Snakes  and  Bannacks,  and  of 
which  1  have  never  been  able  to  discover  the  origin.  It  runs 
about  as  f )llows,  although  tlure  are  many  variations  of  it  : 
In  certain  parts  of  the  mountains  (which,  as  near  as  I  can 
find  out,  are  the  Salmon  River,  the  Goose  Cre(>k,  and  the 
Owyhee  mountains)  there  lives  in  caves  among  the  rocks  a 
race  of  fairies,  about  two  feet  in  height,  who,  with  bow  in 
hand  and  arrow-case  slung  on  their  backs,  go  out  and  hunt 
and  kill  many  sheep,  deer,  and  elk,  which  they  carry  home 
on  their  backs  ;  they  eat  the  fiesh,  and  their  wives  dress  the 
skins,  of  which  they  make  themselves  clothes,  while  the  men 
go  entirely  naked. 

Now,  whenever  the  Indians  arc  in  their  vicinity,  and  a 
woman  goes  out  after  wood,  or  for  any  other  purpose,  and 
happens  to  lay  her  infant  down  and  gets  out  of  sight  of  it, 
one  of  these  fairies  immediately  devours  it,  and  taking  its 
place  begins  to  cry  at  a  terrible  rate  ;  the  woman  hearing  her 
child,  as  she  supposes,  crying,  returns,  and  taking  it  up  gives 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


65 


it  to  SMck  to  pacify  it,  when  it  instantly  seizes  her  by  the 
breast  and  commences  devouring  it. 

Now,  these  fairies  are  a  kind  of  liuman  "  Monitor,"  being 
]ierfectly  proof  against  knives,  axes,  stones,  chibs,  or  fire- 
arms, so  the  poor  woman  cannot  get  rid  of  liim,  and  lier 
screams  being  heard  by  her  husband  or  friends,  they  rush  to 
the  spot,  when  the  little  devil  takes  to  tlight,  leaving  her  in 
a  dying  condition.  She  always  dies  befoie  morning.  When 
they  find  her,  if  they  leave  her  to  go  after  mort*  iielp,  the 
fairy  instantly  returns  and  finishes  the  job  by  eating  her  up 
altogether. 

Now,  when  they  see  the  little  children  playing  together  a 
little  way  out  of  camp,  one  of  them  will  take  his  tail  (I  for- 
got to  mention  that  they  were  furnished  with  these  caudal 
appendages)  in  his  hand  and  giving  it  a  wind  around  his 
body  to  conceal  it,  will  api)roach  the  children  and  want  to 
]»lay  with  them.  Sometinus  they  discover  the  tail  and  take 
to  fiiglit  and  "  save  their  bacon,"  but  at  other  times  they 
think  it  is  only  a  "  marrow  gut"  and  let  him  come  among 
them,  when  the  first  thing  they  know  he  "  gobbles  onto" 
some  little  '  image  of  his  dad,"  clasjis  him  astride  of  his  tail 
and  runs  '^f  ..ith  him,  and  that  is  the  last  that  is  ever  seen 
or  heard  of  that  unfortunate  child. 

Their  camiibalistic  propensities,  however,  do  not  appear 
to  extend  to  the  Indian  men,  for  whenever  they  hap})en  to 
meet  one  near  their  dwelling,  tlu^y  invite  him  in  and  give 
him  something  to  eat  and  insist  on  his  staying  all  night,  but 
he  invariably  refuses,  saying  that  he  has  killed  some  game 
and  must  no  and  take  it  liome  or  the  wolves  will  eat  it.  The 
general  opinion,  however,  is,  that  he  was  afraid  to  stay,  but 
he  scorns  the  imputation.  The  fairies  often  gather  together 
of  an  evening  on  high  rocks  and  clifi's  and  sing  most  boister- 
ously, and  are  supposed  to  be  having  a  good  time  generally. 
They  are  seldom  seen  except  in  the  evening. 

There  is  also  another  kind  of  these  fairies  that  live  in 
streams,  and  are  called  "  pah'  o'-nah,"  which  means  '^  water 
infants."     They  devour  women  and  children  in  the  same 


66 


BI  0  N  T  A  N  A      AS      IT      IS. 


manner  .as  the  land  fairies,  and  may  be  considered  as  rnaliu'- 
iiant  ''  little  cusses." 

NoTK  23,  ])aj;e  28  :  "  Kj;  nung'-a-tine,"  or,  "  nung'-ga- 
wot." — Tli(!  first  literally  translated  is,  "  no  ear-holes,"  and 
the  second  is,  "  no  ears." 

NoTK  24,  ])a,ij;o  28  :  "  Shosh''-o-co  " — m<'ans  "  on  foot,"  or 
"  footmen,"  and  alludes  to  the  fact  of  their  liavinpj  no  horses 
in  formi  i  times  ;  but  of  late  years  they  have  stolen  a 
great  many  from  the  emigrants,  and  are  gen(^rally  mounted, 
although  in  winter  they  fref^iieiuly  eat  the  most  of  them  up, 
and  have  to  steal  a  I'resh  sui)ply  the  foHowing  summer. 

Tl'.ey  talk  u  sort  of  Snake  "  jiatois,"  but  are  held  in  great 
contem])t  by  the  Snakes  nnd  B.mnai-ks  proper.  They  arc 
sometimes  calhnl  "  To'-sa  wee,"  which  menus  "  white  knives." 
ami  is  derived  from  their  having  had  knives  of  bone  before 
tliey  g<i|  others  from  the  whites. 

Th(  y  consist  of  many  tribes,  all  living  in  the  ''  (Jrcat  basin,'' 
and  are  oidy  a  few  degrees  i\bove  the  brute;',  and  their  bill  of 
fare  is  not  calculati  1  for  a  hotel,  as  it  consists  of  crickets, 
grasshoppers,  ant-eggs,  and  various  kinds  of  roots,  varied 
with  ground  sq'.iirn'ls,  ''  woodeliiicks,"  ducks,  ar  '  an  occa- 
sional ui;telo])e.  They  live  in  miserable  huts  made  of  grass 
and  sage-brush,  standing  in  desert,  sandy,  sage-brush  i»lains, 
among  barren,  naked,  granite  mountains.  In  fact,  of  all  the 
(lod-lorsaken  eountri(  s  on  earth,  the  "  liasin  of  the  (Jreat 
Salt  hil.vi"  (which  iiichides  lleese  river,  Humboldt  river,  and 
the  Washoe  country)  is  the  gloomiest,  most  des(date  })lace 
imaginable.  K.  P.  Kingston,  in  the  March  (1864)  number 
of  the  California  Magazine,  describes  it  better  than  I  can, 
80  I  quote  it  : 

'■  Vwr  iiwiiy  11  H('oii(>  (liHcloHi'H — Htnuij^oly  Holcinn — wiliUy  HtraiiRO, 
l,!iy  iisido  ill!  hriilituit.  cdIiu-h,  imiiitor,  imw  tlm  ixili'llt)  chiuiKo. 
IJriii},'  iiic  imiliur,  briii^  iiif  Scpiiis,  Viimlyki',  mid  all  tiiilH  of  lirown, 
Wliiitsdi'Vr  will  ]\\nt  piiiiit  Nutiiro  wIilmo  hi.;'  wiarH  her  j;;l()iiini('8t  frown, 
1.1k''  a  niiiiiMl  wi/iM  it,  HiM'iiictli — burnt,  uptiiriii'il,  iiml  Hcarrod  by  lire — 
Vestige  (I  Alinik^hty  voiigi'uiieo,  record  of  Almighty  iro  : 


t 


]{i 


0 


Th 


<( 


is 

res* 


MONTANi     AS     IT     IS. 


67 


MonntaiiiB  in  amvirphous  masses — sea-beds  of  somo  cavHer  sea ; 
Laml  whcivoii  no  flower  blooniotli — never  grows  unibra-^eous  tree — 
Dreary  hills  and  drearier  valleys — howling  wastes  of  sage-clad  sand — 
Chaos  of  (iod's  first  creation — '  I'ieture  two  in  Silver  Land.'  " 


If 


\lt 


}> 


Any  one  who  has  ever  seen  the  country  described  above, 
must  acknowledge  that  it  is  absohitoly  lifeliUe,  and,  as  a 
speciniin  of  "  word-painting,"  it  has  never  bi en  excelled. 
The  same  remark  will  also  apply  to  his  descrii)tion  of  Carson 
City,  which  I  quote  belov; : 

"  Once  an  outpost — now  a  <'ity — this  is  Carsun  fairly  drawn, 
As  I  i  kelch  it  roughly  tnited,  on  this  bright  I)eeend)er  morn, 
Crairr  ol  some  dead  volcano — lava  bed  of  later  lake; 
Pays  the  pioneei,  stanch-hearted,  '  Ib're  will  I  a  city  make  ;' 
Lays  it  out  in  ijnadrilaterals,  this  a  i)la/.a — that  a  street. 
Stores  (if  granite,  wooden  shanties,  cottages  witli  gardens  neat. 
Here  tlie  soil  wifii  careful  tillage  yields  its  luscious  crops  of  corn, 
roiiceiitrating  heie  its  verdure  in  a  wildernt'ss  forlorn. 
(Circling  round  me,  rise  the  mountains,  and  hills  the  placi'  invest, 
Have  where  crags  and  pines  eomtuingle — looking  backward  to  tiio  Avest, 
One  long  row  of  streets  and  bar-rooms  ranged  iii)on  the  wc.siern  side: 
Kastward,  viiws  of  iilains  of  sage-hrusii,  where  the  vista  oju  us  wide. 
IJusy  throngs  of  motley  people — pioneers  ot  every  raei>, 
Kastern,  wcHlern,  Jew  and  Gentile,  Chinese,  negro,  Indian  face. 
Trailers  with  thin-visageil  aspects;  hunters,  with  their  nets  and  guns, 
Specula'-;s,  politicians,  labor's  horny-listed  sons, 
IJuilding  up  the  nascent  city  of  the  great  state  yet  to  bo. 
Making  in  the  waste  a  desert  all  the  sounds  of  energy, 
Rearing  with  Cyi'lops  power,  tralhc's  nr.irts  and  happy  homes. 
Legislative  halls  and  chambers — temiih  s,  towers,  spires,  and  donies, 
Such  the  gro\md-plot — such  the  future,  roughly  sketched,  but  (:,randly 

plamicd. 
Of  this  strange  young  Carson  City — '  Tietiu'c  three  in  Silvi  r  Land.'" 

NdTE  25,  iiage  29:  "  Taw'-mee'-ah,"  or,  "  law -win."— 
The  first  is  "  walking  about  and  feeding,"  nud  tlie  second  is 
"  standing  still  and  I'eeding." 

NoTR  2G,  page  30  :  '•' An'-ning-gwce'-kwoo." — This  nsime 
is  evid  ntly  deprived  from  the  cry  of  the  bird  itscH',  which  it 
resembles  in  Bound.     They  are  very  numerous  in  many  plaeea 


t    I 


li 


68 


JI  O  N  T  A  X  A      AS      IT     IS 


in  the  mouutiiins.  and  tlioy  keep  np  an  incessant  song  during 
the  mciiths  (tf  April  and  Ma5^ 

I  dearly  love  to  hear  them,  their  song  has  such  a  chi>erfiil, 
ph?asant  sound. 

Note  27,  page  30:  Green  river. — "  Can'-na-ra  o  -gwa" — or 
the  "  Poor  river,"  is  so  calhnl  bec.iuso  it  runs  through 
"  mauvaise  terres,"  t)r  "  bad  lands,"  which  are  clay  ter- 
races, rising  one  above  the  other  as  you  go  back  IVoni  the 
riA^r,  anil  on  which  neither  grass  nor  timber  grows.  Theie 
is  no  game  of  any  consequence  along  the  greater  part  of  its 
course,  nor  any  fish,  except  a  few  of  a  kind  of  white  lish. 

Tlu'  laanehes  of  the  river  near  its  head,  however,  abound 
in  largi'  and  beautiful  trout.  Some  of  these  l)ranclH>s  head 
in  lakes  of  considerable  I'xtimt,  which  lie  embosomed  in  the 
Wind  lliver  mountains,  among  some  of  the  most  glorious 
scenery  in  America. 

Mv  memory  is  full  of  many  marvellous  legends  of  these 
same  \Vind  Kiver  mountains,  whicli,  as  I  have  heard  them 
from  tlie  old  mountaineer  trappers,  are  almost  {H[\ui\  to 
the  leLii  nils  of  the  Hartz  mountains  in  Germany.  One 
in  iiarliciilar  tells  that  in  tliesi'  mountains  there  are  places 
where  the  tind)er,  tlie  different  kiiuls  vf  game,  aiul  even 
the  Indians,  were  petritied,  yet  looking  as  natural  as 
life  itself,  and  that  the  game  and  Indians  shunned  these  lo- 
calities with  a  superstitious  dread  lest  they  should  share  the 
fate  of  their  unfortunate  predecessors,  and  many  wei  the 
taK'S  that  were  told  in  years  gone  by,  of  Indians  having  picked 
up  i)ieees  of  yellow  metal  in  the  bronks  of  tliese  enchanted 
mountains,  which  were  afterwards  found  to  be  gold  These 
stories  lloated  through  the  mountains  even  to  California, 
where,  in  the  winter  of  18.V2, 1  was  told  by  two  o!<l  mountain- 
eers that  tiny  knew  a  tiapper  who,  becoming  lost  l)elween 
Fort  Laramie  and  Taos,  in  Mrxico,  had  wandered  about  for 
muny  days,  and  in  drinking  from  a  small  stream,  ho  saw  some 
pieces  of  yeUow  metal  as  large  as  a  hazel-nut,  which  lie  picked 
up  and  curried  to  Taos,  where  be  asci^rtaiucd  that  they  were 


1 


m  I 

aftc 

nia;j 

mail 

seat! 

fro  1 1 

oecil 

wii 

opii 

sun 

naj 

riel 

pit. 

tnrl 

seal 

shJ 

is  i| 

ami 

rat 

S|M| 

gr(l 


MONTANA      AS     IT     IS, 


69 


-or 


gold.  He  s[)ent  many  years  in  searching-  lur  the  place,  hnt  his 
eyes  were  never  gladdened  by  Lehohling  it  again  ;  yet  the  Pike's 
Peak  mines  were  afterwards  I'onnd  in  that  region,  and  who 
can  say  but  that  lone  trapper  was  the  original  discoverer  of 
tlieni  ?  Tiiese  two  trappers  also  told  that  they  knew  that 
there  were  gold  mines  en  the  head  waters  of  the  Missouri  riv- 
er, and  events  have  made  Iheir  words  good.  It  is  certain  that 
in  gold  regions  "coming  events  cast  their  shadows  before  ;" 
for  therc^  iiiiH  never  yet  been  diggings  discovered  withou*  there 
having  been  for  long  years  before  a  rumor,  in  some  cases  faint 
iind  almost  untraceable,  and  in  others  clear  and  well  di-lined, 
that  thi'ic  was  gold  in  that  vicinity.  So,  who  can  say  but 
wo  sliiiU  yet  see  the  wonderful  legends  of  the  almost  nnex- 
))lor»'(MVin(l  lliver  mountains  realizeil,  y<'a,  veiily,  "  Quic^n 
^iabe.^" 

Who  but  "  a  regular  gut"  could  eviM-  live  and  be  contented 
in  the  llat,  monotonous  bake-oven  of  the  Mississippi  valley, 
after  having  once  breathed  the  free;  pnrc  air,  and  viinved  the 
njagniliceni  scenery,  or  if  he  isn't  fond  of  ^liat,  "  chawed"  the 
niagnilicent  venison  ste.dcs  that  lie  (after  they  ar(!  killed) 
sialtori'd  among  the  U(d)h'  ranges  of  mountains  tliat  reach 
Ironi  the  east  em  hIojjc  of  the  Koiky  mountains  to  the  Pacific 
ocean,  csjiocially  if  the  aforesaid  steaks  be  well  washed  down 
with  stories  of  discoveries  richer  and  more  goigi'ons  than  an 
opium  eater's  dn^ams,  and  runiung  aboni  in  this  wise  :  '"  Be 
sure  and  don't  tell  anybody,  but  have  your  horse  and  'grub' 
ready  and  we  will  start  as  soon  as  the'  moon  goes  down.  It's 
rich,  'bet  your  life,'  four  dollars  to  the  jian  and  the  bed-rock 
pileliing." 

Now  the  man  who  can  sit  coldly  by  and  hear  this  without 
tnrning  a  double  sununersault  and  coiiiiiig  down  with  iho 
seat  of  Ids  breeches  on  a  big  bunch  of  prickly  penis,  a. id 
shouting  "  Heat!  go  way,  gals!  I'm  on  it,  you  bet  your  life," 
is  no  man  at  all,  lie  Iuim  no  appieciation  of  what  1  (all  "life," 
and  is  (to  use  an  exjji'ession  of  my  own  that  1  see  in  jirint 
rather  often  of  late)  "only  fit  for  treasr>ns,  stratagems,  and 
spoils."  "  (ireen  river"  derives  its  name  from  the  beautiful 
green  color  of  its  waters. 


']i 


h 


t\H 


I  ,   ! 


70 


MONTANA      AS     IT      18. 


Note  28,  papje  31:  "Poo'-e-foy,"  or  "groen  pipe,"  is 
found  in  tho  banks  of  the  creek  which  deriv(>s  its  name  from 
it,  and  also  in  several  ravines  in  the  vicinity.  It  is  a  <5reen 
soft  kind  of  stone,  of  great  weight,  and  without  grit  in  it.  It 
crumbles  when  exposed  to  the  air  a  short  time.  The  Indians, 
however,  make  heautiful  transparent  pipes  of  a  niotth'd 
cloudy  green,  through  which  the  fire  shows  when  smoking. 
Th»  Indians,  however,  do  not  show  much  taste  in  making 
them,  fir  tliey  are  clumsy  and  ill  lo(tking,  hut  the  material  is 
excellent.  They  use  the  following  process  in  making  the 
pipes  :  ihey  dig  out  a  piece  of  the  rock  f.om  the  ledge  and 
instantly  rub  grease  all  over  it  and  keep  plenty  of  it  on  it 
while  carving  it  out,  which  pn^'ents  it  from  cracking. 

NoTK  29,  page  31  :  "  Teed  -zc  ].ah,"  or  "  the  bad  water," 
hut  is  soiretimes  called  "  0  -nah-bit  i)ah,"  or  "  the  salt 
water,*'  the  last  being  much  the  most  ai)pro])riate  of  the  two, 

111  speaking  of  the  sctthments  there  they  g(  ncrally  call 
them  the  "Mormon  .shoek'-up,"  or  "  IMormon  country."  This 
great  iiilaml  sea  is  a  "  prtimiiient  featunv"  in  the  "  Great 
basin."  which  ajtpeais  to  have  been  almost  covered  by  it  in 
ancient  days,  as  water-mark^<  an;  j>lainly  visible  at  diflVrent 
heights  on  the  UKUintains,  some  of  \vhi<'h,  however,  appear 
to  have  been  upheaved  abtitit  the  time  the  water  subsided, 
and  may  have  had  something  to  do  with  its  fall. 

The  description  I  have  already  given  ol'  the  Hreat  basin 
will  also  api  ly  to  that  part  of  it  around  the  lake.  1  do 'not 
think  any  other  jieoph;  but  the  Mormons  would  have  had  the 
courage  to  make  their  humes  and  living  (by  agiieultuial  ])ur- 
suils)  in  such  an  unpromising  land.  They  have  literally  ''made 
the  desert  blossom  like  the  rose," 

Note  30,  ]iage  31  :  ''  Aw'-ha-pit  la  pee-ass,"  or  "  the 
yellow  money." — Money  being  exjiressed  by  ''La  pee-ass" 
among  the  French  Canadian  hunters  and  tra])iiers,  and  the 
Indians  have  adopted  it  I'rom  hearing  them  (!onstantly  use 
the  word.  Still,  a  great  many  of  the  Hnakes,  and  tiiat  ])art 
of  them  in  particular  that  range  in  the  vicinity  of  Salt  lake, 


MONTANA      AS     IT      I 


71 


IS 

lom 

?en 

It 

iiis, 

tied 


s 


use  the  word '•  Poo'-e-wee"  for  money  or  dollar,  which  arc 
synonymous  ti^rms  among  Indians.  Gold  dust  is  som(>tiniG8 
distinguished  by  being  called  "Aw'-ha-pit  la  pee-ass'  kesh  a 
hon'-ip"  or  ''  The  yellow  money  not  yet  made  up." 

Note  31,  page  31  :  "  Ny-a-.vitch." — All  Indians  from  the 
eastern  foot  of  the  Rocky  mountains  to  the  Pacific  ocean, 
and  from  Mexico  to  the  Arctic  regions,  are  the  most  invete- 
rate gamblers  in  the  world  (always  i'XC(']iting  the  Chinese, 
who  are  just  as  far  ahead  of  them  in  that  respect,  as  the 
Indians  art;  ahead  of  the  wliites).  They  will  bet  their  last 
horse,  last  blanket,  last  shirt,  or  last  anything,  on  a  horse- 
race (of  which  they  are  very  fond)  or  on  some  games  of  chance, 
of  which  the  princii)al  one  runs  about  as  follows  :  They 
take  two  })iece8  of  bone  made  for  the  purpose,  about  two  and 
a  half  inches  long  and  a  fourth  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  one 
of  which  is  covered  with  some  dark  skin,  except  about  half 
an  inch  at  each  end.  Each  party  then  takes  a  certain 
number  of  short  pieces  of  willow  sharpened  at  one  end,  which 
they  stick  in  the  ground  and  use  to  count  the  game.  Tluy 
take  the  pieces  of  bone  one  in  each  hand  and  shift  them  about 
rapidly  with  various  contortions  and  twisting  about,  accom- 
panied with  a  kind  of  monotonous  song  which  they  sing  in 
chorus,  while  some  of  them  generally  l*eat  time  with  a  stick 
on  a  dry  \n)\v.  Tiie  ojjposite  party  (it  is  played  by  any 
nund)er,  seated  in  two  rows  facing  each  other)  guesses  which 
hand  contains  the  black  bono  (or  tlu^  white  one  as  they  agree 
at  the  commencement  of  the  game)  if  they  guess  right  they 
get  the  bones,  and  wrong  they  give  the  other  side  a  stick, 
who  keep  hiding  the  bones  till  it  is  guessed,  when  the  oppo- 
site party  taki^s  it,  and  goes  through  the  same  process  ;  who- 
ever wins  all  the  sticks  wins  the  game. 

They  are  passionately  fond  of  this  and  similar  gamins,  and 
will  play  at  tliem  night  after  night,  with  a  perseveranee  and 
endurance  Avorthy  of  a  better  causes 

Note  32,  page  31 :  "  Thu-op' "  or  " Tswop "  or  "  (Jhost."~ 
Their  belief  in  such  things  is  exactly  like  that  ol'  the  lower 


!!. 


72 


MONTANA      AS     IT     IS, 


classes  {wnono-  civilized  nations.  White  men  are  frequently- 
called  by  this  name  by  the  Indians,  and  it  is  generally  sup- 
posed that  they  use  it  as  a  sort  of  derisive  nickname  because 
white  men  make  very  frequent  use  of  the  word  "swap"  in 
trying  to  trade  with  them,  and  I  think  that  at  the  present 
time  it  is  often  used  in  this  way  ;  but  I  am  satisfied  that  it 
was  originally  applied  to  whites  because  of  their  pale,  ghost- 
ly appearance. 

NoTic  33,  page  31  :  "Tim -pep"  or  "  Tim^-pipe."— This 
dist'ase  dues  not  ]>re  "1  to  any  great  extent  among  the  tribes 
of  the  mountains,  aiul  is  not  very  severe,  very  frequently  get- 
ting well  without  any  doctoring. 

Note  34,  page  32  :  "Cut'-tuh  o  -gwa"  or  "Swift  river."— 
The  Snakes  call  it  by  this  name  because  of  the  extreme  velo- 
city dt'  its  current,  which  is  equal  if  not  strongir  than  that  of 
Big-llt)K'  iivt>r.  The  vallev  of  the  (Jallatin  is  thirty-live  or 
forty  miles  long,  and  from  ten  to  lifteen  wide,  and  for  farming 
purposes  it  is  unexcelled  by  any  valley  in  the  Rocky  moun- 
tains, and  it  is  a  good  gru//ing  region. 

There  is  a  town  laid  out  ni  ar  the  upper  end  of  the  valley, 
wh(>re  the  road  throuirh  the  Yellowstone  eountrv,  known  as 
"Bridger's,  Jacob's,  and  Bozeman's  cutotVs,"  strikes  it  and  all 
the  most  favorabU^  location^  for  farms  are  taken  u]),  and  there 
will  be  a  large  flouring  mill  jiut  up  in  the  vallt'\  next  spring, 
which,  with  flour  wi  fifty  doUar.s  a  barrel,  may  be  considered 
"a  dead  thing  for  a  raise,"  or  in  other  words  a  "sure  card" 
for  a  fortune ;  and  with  wheat  at  from  live  to  eight  dollars  a 
buslu>l.  I'otatoes  twelve  to  fifteen  cents  j)er  pound,  onions  fif- 
teen to  eighteen  cents  jxr  juiund,  cabbage  twenty  cents  j)er 
pound,  and  other  vegetables  in  jiroportion  ;  melons  of  any 
kiiul  a  dollar  and  fifty  cents  each,  burhy  twelve  to  fifteen 
cents  j»er  pound,  and  oats  the  same.  If  the  farmers  can't 
make  their  "})iles"  at  these  })iices,  in  gold,  rcmvinher,  they 
hail  better  sell  out  to  somebody  that  can.  Yet.  strange  as  it 
may  seem,  there  ar(>  very  few  peo]do  engaged  in  agricultural 
pursuits,  whil(>  there  are  laud  and  room  for  thousands.     The 


n 
o 


MONTANA      AS     IT     IS, 


73 


tly 


mountains  around  the  Gallatin  valley  are  beyond  doubt  rich 
in  the  j)recious  minerals,  althou<;h,  owinj^f  to  the  slight  amount 
of  prospectinc;  that  has  been  done,  nothing  very  rich  has  yet 
been  *'  struck,"  but  the  time  is  not  far  distant  -when  the 
smoke  of  many  furnaces  shall  rise  like  pillars  to  heaven,  and 
the  sound  of  the  ponderous  "stamp"  shall  be  heard  irom  a 
thousand  quart?  mills,  scattered  among  the  mountains  of  this 
region,  and  make  the  heart  of  the  '"honest  miner"  leap  for 

NoTK  35,  page  32  :  "  Pec-beet,"  or  "hovse-flies." — These 
troublesome  insects  are  very  bad  in  the  pine  timber  on  the 
mountains,  while  in  the  valleys  they  are  not  very  numerous  ; 
the  higher  you  ascend  U])on  the  mountains  the  worse  they 
become.  I  have  often,  in  hunting,  ascended  to  the  heights 
where  tjie  snow  lies  all  the  year,  an<l  found  these  ])ests  much 
worse  among  the  l)anks  of  snow  than  anywhere  else  ;  gnats 
and  mosquitoes  also  were  veiy  plenty,  so  much  so,  that  they 
and  the  ilii^s  would  drive  my  horse  almost  crazy,  and  comitcl 
me  to  des'^"nd  to  the  valleys  to  get  rid  of  them. 

Note  36,  page  33  :  "  To'-erk-oh-ro-ne" — is  the  name  given 
by  the  "aborigines"  tt)  the  jilain  or  valley,  now  known  as  "Horse 
prairie  ;"  it  received  this  name  because  Lewis  and  Clarke's 
party  here  obtaiiK^d  horses  from  the  Salmon  Kiver  Snakes 
with  which  to  continue  their  long  and  weary  journey  to  the 
tuouth  of  the  Columbia  river  in  Oregon.  They  were  here  in 
September,  1805,  and  called  the  valley  the  "  Shoshonee 
cove,"  which  name  it  should  have  retained,  but  it  would 
"make  a  ])reacher  cuss"  to  see  how  many  of  the  names 
given  to  streams  and  ]>laces  by  the  Indians  and  old  trappers 
have  been  changed  to  others  that  have  neither  sense  nor  mean- 
ing to  tlicm.  The  class  of  peojile  who  ilock  to  mining  re- 
gions apjiear  to  have  about  as  much  originality  as  so  many 
ganders.  Every  little  town,  for  instance,  nuist  be  call(>d 
Virginia  City,  Nevada  City,  (.\>ntral  City,  or  some  other 
name  that  has  already  been  used  in  naming  half  a  dozen 
other  towns  in  mining  r(>gions.     'Tis  villanous,  it  produces 


I ' 


t. ''     1 


wsm 


'!|t 


74 


MONTANA      AS     IT     IS. 


!     I 


"  confusion  worse  confonndetl,"  and  greatly  facilitates  our 
cliunco  of  never  i^etting  any  letters  ;  mine  generally  circum- 
navigate the  globe,  and  reach  me  Avith  about  eight  inches 
thick  of  post  marks  and  "misscnts"  on  the  envelope,  on 
which  occasions  I  have  been  overheard  making  sonn'  remarks 
about  "  the  d — d  stu])idity  of  calling  more  than  six  mining 
towns  by  the  same  name," 

"  Horse  prairie"  lies  a  few  miles  south  of  Bannack  city, 
and  at  the  upper  end  of  the  valley  is  the  extreme  head  of 
the  main  fork  of  the  Missouri  river,  where  one  of  Lewis  and 
Clarke's  men  stood  astride  of  the  stream  and  thaid^ed  God 
that  he  had  lived  to  see  the  day  that  he  could  straddle  the 
Missouri  river. 

There  is  a  gulch  near  the  upper  end  of  the  valley  that  paid 
good  wages  din'ing  the  summer  of  '63,  but  water  was  very 
scarce  and  little  has  been  done  there  since. 

I  think  the  valley  lies  at  too  great  an  elevation  to  be  of 
much  account  for  farming  purposes,  although  it  has  never 
been  tried  ;  it  is  an  excellent  grazing  region,  however,  being 
clothed  with  a  luxuriant  growth  of  grass,  while  the  moun- 
tains on  all  sides  are  known  to  be  rich  in  gold  and  silver,  and 
probably  in  coj)per,  lead,  and  coal. 

It  was  in  this  valley  that  bands  of  antelope  were  found 
during  the  extremely  si-vere  winter  of  1852,  frozen  stiff  and 
standing  on  their  feet  in  the  snow,  which  was  from  two  to 
four  feet  in  depth  ;  at  a  little  distance  they  seemed  to  be 
alive,  and  a  hunter  "  approached  "  one  and  shot  it  several 
tunes  before  he  discoveied  that  it  was  already  dead. 

Note  34,  page  34  :  ''  It-sooke'  ])o'-ni,"  or  "  white-tailed 
deer  mouse" — are  so  called  because  they  go  by  leajis,  and 
in  color  resemble  the  deer  also.  They  have  the  long  hind 
legs  and  short  fore  ones  in  about  the  same  proportion  as  the 
kangaroo.  They  are  found  in  certain  parts  of  the  Rocky 
moimtaius,  Deer  Lodge  in  particular,  and  in  California. 
They  are  a  little  larger  than  the  common  mouse  and  liavo 
longer  tails. 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS, 


75 


on 
iks 


Note  38,  page  34  :  "  Tiin-i'-yah,"  or  "  larb" — is  a  small 
creeping  plant,  growing  all  over  the  Rocky  mountains.  It 
has  thick  oblong  leaves,  about  half  an  inch  long  and  of  a 
dull  green  color,  and  when  dried  and  mixed  with  about  one 
fourth  its  bulk  of  tobacco  and  smoked,  has  a  very  agreeable 
flavor  and  smell.  It  is  in  universal  use  among  the  moun- 
taineers and  Indians.  It  bears  a  small  red  beny,  which  has 
an  agreeable  tartish  taste,  but  if  many  are  eaten  tiny  give  a 
choking  sensation  exactly  like  choke-cherries.  They  are 
gathered  by  the  Indians,  who  eat  them  while  fresh.  The 
leaves  and  berries  of  the  nuinzanita  bushes  in  California 
I)osses8  similar  prop<>rtie8. 

The  word  "  larb"  is  a  corru])tion  of  the  French  "  I'herbe," 
or  "  the  plant,"  and  the  Americans  having  no  name  of  their 
own  for  the  plant  in  question,  have  adopted  the  French 
one. 

Note  30,  page  35:  "  Sag''-ga-bee,"  or  "manyfold  of 
pauneh." — This  is  a  great  delicacy  among  the  Indians  and 
mountaineers,  who  always  save  it  when  they  kill  any  game. 
I  have  seen  them  gobble  down  large  (quantities  of  it  raw,  and 
without  its  being  washed  any  too  clean  either. 

I  cannot  "go  it"  yet,  but  as  ''  we  all  know  what  wo  are, 
but  know  not  what  we  may  be,"  I  may  come  to  it  yet. 

Note  40,  ])age  35  :  "  Ho'  kosh^-awb"— literally  "  the 
wooden  fire-steel,"  and  they  give  it  this  name  because  it  is 
used  to  kindle  a  fire  with. 

Note  41,  page  36:  "To'  par'-rce-ah,"or  "black  elk."— 
They  are  so  called  because  when  they  "  shed  off"  in  the 
Bj)ring  they  arc  nearly  black,  and  they  arc  of  the  elk  species, 
only  much  larger  and  uglier  ;  in  fact,  a  moose  is  the  ugliest 
beast  in  North  America,  not  even  exeejjting  buffalo  bulls. 
Their  most  usual  haunt  is  in  bushy  marshy  jtlaces,  near  the 
head  of  streams,  and  among  densely  wooded  mountains. 
Tiiey  are  easily  killed  (wlun  found,  but  finding  them  is  a 
good  deal  like  work)  if  you  have  the  wind  of  them  and  make 


f: 


1 1 


1:' 


2i 


76 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS 


M'l 


no  nuisc,  for  they  will  stand  and  stare  at  you  till  you  p;ot 
within  twenty  or  tliirty  yards  of  them,  hut  if  ever  they  j;et 
a  "  smell"  of  you,  or  you  wound  one  without  giviniji;  it  a  dead 
shot,  it  is  almost  useless  to  follow,  heeause  they  will  run  a 
long  distance,  and  are  very  watchful  for  many  hours  after- 
ward. When  wounded  and  hard  pressed,  they  will  turn  and 
fight,  and  are  almost  as  dangerous  as  a  wounded  btar.  They 
strike  with  their  feet,  which  are  exceedingly  sharp.  Their 
track  is  peculiar,  being  about  as  large  as  that  of  an  ox,  but 
the  "  claws"  are  wider  apart  and  a  little  narrower,  and  they 
run  to  a  very  sharp  point. 

They  feed  on  willows,  hr  branches,  and  "  larb."  I  do  not 
think  they  eat  much  grass.  One  thing  that  contributes  not 
a  little  to  their  strange  and  frightful  a])pearance,  is  tlieir 
cnornious  nose,  which  is  about  the  size  of  a  three-gallon  camp- 
kettle,  and,  ])eing  composed  of  soft  cartilages,  it  swings  and 
flo])s  about  in  a  very  amusing  manner  when  they  ti  this 
biing  thrir  gait,  and  it  takes  a  pretty  swift  horse  to  ratcli 
them.  When  hard  pressed,  they  will  often  break  into  a  very 
awkward  gallop,  their  legs  seeming  to  fly  about  and  become 
mixed  u})  into  an  inextricable  snarl,  while  their  speed  is  much 
less  than  when  trotting. 

Moose-nose,  cooked  in  various  styles,  is  a  mountaineer  and 
Indian  delicacy.  I  have  a  "  weakness"  for  it  mysflf  As 
for  the  meat,  when  fat  it  is  tolerably  good,  but  when  poor, 
a  mess  of  old  boots  cooked  in  good  style  is  infinitely  prefer- 
able. 

Note  42,  psigc  30  :  "  Mee'-ah."— This  word  is  very  diffi- 
cult to  spell,  80  as  to  give  a  correct  idea  of  its  sound.  I  am 
nut  sure  but  "  muh"  is  nearer  to  it  than  "  mce'-ah." 

Note  43,  page  36  :  "  Thoig  a-rik-kah,"  or  "  cowse-eat- 
ers." — They  are  so  called  from  a  root  called  liy  them  "  cowse," 
and  ])y  the  Snakes  "thoig,"  which  grows  in  great  abundance 
in  th.ir  country,  and  which  is  used  by  them  as  a  substitute 
for  l)read.  It  has  a  pungent  disagreeable  taste,  yet  many  of 
the  mountaineers  arc  fund  of  it. 


il 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


77 


Thcso  Indians  are  also  callrd  "  Tsoi'-gali"  by  the  Snakes, 
vvhicli  is  evidently  a  corruption  of  "  Tlioig  a-rik-kah."  These 
Indians  have  been  at  war  with  tlu'  Snakes  and  Bannacks  from 
time  inimemorial,  for  Lewis  and  Clarke  speak  of  "raids"  by 
the  Snakes  into  the  Nez  Perce  country,  while  they  were  there 
in  1805- G. 

The  word  "  Nez  Perce"  is  French,  and  means  "  ])ierced 
noses,"  and  is  derived  from  the  fact  that,  in  ancient  days, 
they  often  pierced  the  cartilage  of  the  nose,  and  inserted 
pieces  of  bone,  and  other  "jewelry,"  that  might  well  be  con- 
sidered more  ornamental  than  useful.  This  beastly  practice 
a})pears  to  have  been  nearly  extinct  when  Lewis  and  Clarke 
visited  them,  and  I  believe  is  entirely  so  now.  These  Indians 
are  fast  becoming  civilized,  and  now  farm  to  a  considerable 
extent,  a  large  pro[)ortion  of  their  country  being  well  adapted 
to  agricultural  pursuits. 

Here  is  a  practical  refutation  of  the  time-honored  lie,  that 
intercourse  with  the  whites  is  an  injury  to  Indians.  Let  any 
one  take  Lewis  and  Clarke's  journal,  written  sixty  years  ago, 
when  few  of  the  western  tribes  had  ever  seen  a  wiiite  man, 
and  follow  them  in  their  journey  to  the  mouth  of  ihe  Colum- 
bia, and  he  will  find  that  the  Indians  along  their  route  are, 
almost  without  exception,  ten  times  better  olf  lo-day  than 
they  were  then.  Tluy  have  more  to  eat,  are  iulinitely  bet- 
ter clothed,  have  more  horses,  do  not  live  in  such  constant 
fear  of  their  neighbors,  and  some  of  them  are  even  beginning 
to  believe  that  this  is  so. 


J.. 


NoTK  44,  page  .'57  :  "  See'-man-o  maw"  or  "  the  hands 
ten  times,"  or  "  ten  hands," — is  used  because  the  tingers  and 
thumbs  counted  ten  times  make  one  hundred.  All  Imlians  use 
the  lingers  a  great  deal  in  counting. 

Note  45,  page  .37  :  "  To'-yah-rook"  or  "th(>  Panther"— 
the  literal  meaning  being  "  The  beast  that  lives  in  the  caves 
of  the  mountains,"  and  is  plainly  derived  irom  the  fact  that 
they  generally  inhabit  such  places.     They  are  not  numerous, 


t  .i 


•H 


78 


MONTANA      AS     IT      IS, 


I' 


neither  are  they  so  furious  in  the  Rocky  mountains  and  Cala- 
fornia,  and  Oregon,  as  they  were  in  the  states. 

Their  skin  is  held  in  good  esteem  hy  all  the  Rocky  mountain 
Indians,  who  will  often  give  a  good  horse  for  a  fine  one  ;  they 
use  thcni  to  make  arrow  cases,  &c. 

Note  46,  page  37  :  "  Teet'-sock"  or  "  parfleche"— which  is 
a  French  word  that  the  Americans  have  adopted.  '•  Paifleches" 
are  in  universal  use  in  the  mountains,  and  tlie  Indians  manu- 
facture them  in  the  following  manner  :  They  take  a  dried 
Lutfalo  hide  (and  sometimes  of  late  years,  they  use  the  hides 
of  domestic  cattle),  and  beat  the  hair  off  with  a  stone  which 
also  softens  it  considerably.  They  then  cut  it  nearly  in  the 
shape  of  an  envelope.  When  folded  they  are  about  two  and  a 
half  feet  long  by  fourteen  inches  wide.  The  articles  to  be 
packed  are  then  placed  upon  the  hide  and  the  sides  brought 
together  and  tied  with  a  small  cord  passed  through  holes  cut 
in  the  edge.  The  ends  are  then  brought  over  and  tied  in  a 
like  nuuuier,  Avhich  makes  a  very  portable  package  even 
when  composed  of  small  articles.  Two  loops  of  small  cord  are 
then  fastened  on  one  side  near  the  ends,  and  which  are  used 
to  hang  over  the  forks  of  the  paeksaddle,  a  rope  is  then  pass- 
ed around  anil  lashed  tight,  which  l)inds  the  "  parlleches" 
firndy,  and  enables  the  horse  to  carry  them  easily — when 
taken  off  and  turned  U]iside  down  they  are  impervious  to  the 
hardest  lain,  which  is  a  qualitication  of  some  importance  to 
those  who  are  travelling  without  tents. 

Note  47,  page  38  :  "  To'  o-nah-bit"— This  literally  means 
"  black  salt."     They  also  call  red  pepjjcr  "  red  salt." 

Note  48,  page  38  :  "  Tib'-ap"  or  "  nut-bearing  pine."— 
This  is  a  species  of  pine  very  much  resembling  the  "  switch- 
tail  pines"  of  Calii'ernia,  with  this  difference,  however,  the 
"  switch-tails"  generally  grow  on  the  low  rocky  hills  border- 
ing the  California  valleys,  while  the  *'  tib'-ap"  only  grows 
on  the  lofiy  mountains  of  the  Rocky  mountain  region.  The 
nuts  are  alike,  only  the  cones  of  the  "  switch-tails"  are  larger 
and  contain  more  nuts.     The  nuts  are  contained  in  the  scales 


tan 

heii 

the 

to 

rar(.' 


of 

Bea 

end 

St  re 

goo 

th( 


MONTANA      AS     IT      IS. 


79 


of  the  cones,  there  being  many  on  each  tree,  a  single  cone 
often  yields  a  handful  of  nuts,  which  are  about  the  size  of  a 
plum  kernel. 

I  can't  say  that  I  "hanker"  after  them,  because  they  have 
a  kind  of  pine  taste  that  I  don't  like  ;  but  the  Indians  are 
very  fond  of  them. 

Note  49,  i)age  38:  "  Pahn'-gog-go,"  or  "prairie  chick- 
en."— These  "animals,"  as  Lewis  and  Chirki' call  them,  are 
fiund  in  considerable  numbers  in  most  of  the  valleys  of  the 
liocky  mountains,  but  they  are  not  found  in  California  or 
Oregon.  They  are  much  hetter  eating  than  sage  hens,  the  meat 
is  not  so  dark.  The  whitest  meat,  howi'vcr,  is  the  mountain 
grouse,  and  next  is  the  pheasant,  which  are  found  in  some 
})arts  of  the  mountains. 

Note  50,  page  39;  "Toag'-go,"  or  "rattlesnake."— 
These  re})tiles  are  vciy  numeriuis  in  some  parts  of  the  moun- 
tains, and  are  invariably  of  the  large  yellow  kind,  there 
being  none  of  the  species  called  "  j)rairie  rattlesnakes"  in 
the  states,  to  be  found  in  this  country.  They  do  not  appear 
to  be  very  "heavy  on  the  bite"  in  this  region,  for  it  is  very 
rare  to  hear  of  their  biting  either  man  or  beast. 

Note  51,  page  39;  "  Ing'-ga  timp'-pa  pah,"  or  "Red 
Rock  creek." — This  stream  derives  its  name  from  some  red 
"  buttes"  or  isolated  hills,  on  the  banks  near  the  U])per  end 
of  the  valley.  This  stream  is  a  prinei])al  bianch  of  the 
Beaverhead  river.  It  comes  in  from  the  south,  at  the  lower 
end  of  Horse  prairie.  There  is  a  valley  extending  up  the 
stream  sixteen  or  eighteen  miles,  but  it  lies  too  high  to  be  a 
good  farming  region,  the  stream  heads  in  a  marshy  lake,  to 
the  north  of  the  Dry-creek  pass. 

This  pass  is  the  second  lowest  one  that  has  yet  been  dis- 
covered in  the  Rocky-mountain  chain.  A  stranger,  passing 
here,  can  scarcely  be  brought  to  believe  that  he  is  crossing 
the  main  chain  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  for  there  is  actually 
no  mountain  to  cross,  the  road,  when  it  leaves  Snake  river, 


I       1 


I? 


I ) 


80 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS, 


^■i: 


going  ui»  Dry  creek  ten  or  twelve  miles  with  ti  very  gradual 
ascent,  tuul  then  passing  across  a  grassy  plain  three  or  four 
miles,  to  wlu've  it  strikes  the  valley  of  a  small  fork  of  lied 
Rock  c^cek. 

The  easiest  divide  to  cross  is  that  between  Biaverhead  and 
Deer  Lodge  valleys,  which  is  reuiirkable  as  being  the  only 
pass  that  never  becomes  impassable  with  snow  ;  in  iact,  it 
seldc.m  tails  mure  than  two  tcwt  deep  on  this  gap,  while  on 
the  Dry  Creek  pass  it  generally  falls  to  the  depth  of  ten  and 
twelve  feet. 

No  work  has  ever  been  done  on  either  of  these  passes,  and 

yet  loadc'l  wagons  pass  with  ease. 

NoTF.  r-2,  page  39  :  "  Aa'-ne  no  -yo,"  or  ''  rice."— The 
Indiui  namr,  however,  nunins  "ant-eggs,"  which  are  very 
similar  !  '  ap[iearance,  and  are  cateu  by  the  "noble  red  men 
of  the  sage-!<rush." 

Note  53,  puge  Hi  :  "  Sho'-sho-ne,"  or  "  Snak(>  Indian." — 
These  Indians  occupy  a  vast  extent  of  country,  and  are 
dividttl  into  bands  like  the  Sioux.  The  "  (Jrei'U-River 
Snalccs"  occupy  the  c<»untry  drained  hy  Green  river  mid  its 
branches.  They  are  known  also  as  "  Wash'-a-kceks  band," 
and  their  princl[»al  hunliiig  ground  is  in  the  Wind  IliviT 
mountains  and  on  Wind  river  (which  is  a  iun\u  branch  of  the 
the  Big-Ilorn  rivci)  and  its  tribularic' ,  where  they  nact  and 
have  nuuK  rous  battles  w.fli  the  ('v.>w  Indians,  who  also  claim 
that  country.  Tlusc  tijlits  among  the  Indians  remind  me 
strongly  of  the  minor  bi.tths  UMi-^\ii  at  the  beginning  i<i'  the 
rebellion  wiien  a  Haniin^  diBpakl*  wonM  be  issued,  stating 
that  a  "  (h'sperate  battle  '  had  been  fouglt  by  seven  or  eight 
hunilietl  faenoneach  «id( ,  and  last ingirom  four  o'clock  in  the 
moinl'ng  till  six  in  theevtning,  when  one  party  would  charge 
upon  the  other  umler  "  a  vlea'.iiy  lire,"  and  rout  IIkjui  "  with 
great  slaughter  ,"  then  wou'd  follow  a  list  of  casualties  con- 
sisting of  one  killed  and  foui  wounded. 

How  supremely  ludicrous  mud*  such  braggadocio,-)  appear 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


81 


'lit 


to  all  forcif^n  nations,  and  every  one  who  has  read  the  papers 
since  tlie  war  commenced,  knows  that  they  contain  plenty  of 
just  such  hattles. 

The  "  Salmon  River  Snakes"  occupy  the  Salmon  River 
country  and  the  U])per  part  of  Snake  River  valley,  and 
"  Coiners'  prairie,"  near  the  Boise  mines.  Th(>y  are  called 
"  Took'-a-rik-kah,"  or  "  mountain  sheep-eaters,"  hy  the  other 
Snakes,  because  in  former  times  th(>y  lived  principally  off 
these  animals,  which  were  very  abundant  then  in  that  re- 
<j;i()n,  but  they  are  about  "  i)hiyed  out"  now.  These  two 
bands  are  the  f];enuine  Snakes,  all  the  others  beinf;;  the  in- 
fciior  blanches  of  the  Snake  family,  for  instance,  the  "S.-vlt 
Lak(^  l)i<;'<;ers,"  or  •' Ho'-kaii-dik'' ah,"  who  inhabit  the  re- 
^hm  about  tho  "  Ureal  lake,"  and  live  by  stealinu'  from  the 
emiurauts  and  "  bumminj;"  on  the  IMornions.  They  were 
exceedingly  insolent  prior  lo  (Ik^  battle  on  Bear  river,  in  the 
winter  of  1S(!2,  when  they  were  almost  exterminated  by  the 
(Jalit'ornia  VoIunt(H'rs,  under  C-olonel  Connor.  This  inso- 
lence was  caused  l»y  (he  conciliatory  policy  of  the  Mormons, 
who  will  submit  to  be  grossly  imposed  upon  for  tlu^  sake  of 
ke(^l)ing  on  good  terms  with  ihem,  partly  Itecause  llu!  heads 
of  the  church  gavi!  orders  to  thiit  elfect,  and  partly  because 
the  tratlic  with  these  Indians  (in  property  and  live  stock 
stolt'U  from  the  emigrants)  was  very  remunerative. 

Next  in  order  como  the  "  Ag  -gi  ..ik'-kah,"  or  ''  Salmon- 
eaters,"  who  occupy  the  region  round  about  Salmon  liilIs,on 
Snake  rivur,  and  who  subsist,  as  their  nann!  iinj)lies,  princi- 
pally on  salmon. 

And  lastly,  the  "  J[uml)oldt"  am}  "  (jooso  Creek  Diggers," 
or  as  they  are  called  an)ong  the  other  Indians,  "  To'-sa  weo," 
or"  White  Knives,"  and  sometiiuos  "  Shosh'-o-co,"  or  "Foot- 
nwn."  Tliey  are  very  similar  in  their  lil'e  and  habits  to  all 
the  other  tribes  of  the  Great  basin,  consisting  of  "  Pi  Ules," 
"Gosh  UteH,"an(l  several  other  bands  of  Utes  anil  the  "  Dig- 
ger Baunacks,"  who  inhabit  tho  ref^iou  of  the  Boise,  Mal- 


leur,  au( 


Owyl 


ivv  rivers. 


I       I 


0 


iSf; 


82 


MONTANA      AS      IT      IS, 


All  those  Indians  who  occupy  th<3  vast  extent  of  country, 
reacliini;'  from  the  Rocky  niountaius  to  the  Sierra  Nevada, 
and  iVi'in  Arizona  t<i  Washington  territory,  are  iViindly  with 
each  other,  never  lighting  among  themselves,  althougli  they 
steal  a  little  from  one  another  just  for  the  sake  of  being 
sociable  and  "  kee})ing  their  hand  in." 

The  Bannacks  and  Flat-H(>adi6  are  the  bravest  Indians  in 
the  mountains. 

The  Snakes  are  the  most  gentle,  tractable,  and  be;  t  dis- 
positioned. 

The  Flat- Heads  are  the  ugliest,  and  most  of  thiir  Avomen 
are  far  from  being  beauties,  and  are  slightly  inclined  to  "•  em- 
hoii]ioint." 

The  Bannacks  are  the  finest  looking  men,  hut  their  women 
are  the  ugliest  of  an  v. 

The  Snake  women,  and  part  of  the  "  To'-sa  »vees,"  arc  the 
best  hulking  among  the  foregiting  tribi-s 

The  Flat-Head  and  Nesc  Perce  women  are  masculine  in 
disposilion.  They  are  most  intolerable  lermaganis,  and  they 
generally  "  wear  the  breeches." 

Tbc  Snake  women  have  the  characteristics  of  the  men? 
being  kind,  gentle,  and  tractable. 

The  Hannack  men  are  proud  and  (]uarrelsom(>,  the  women 
are  stubboin  and  (dtstinat  \ 

Tlu' "  Salt  Lake  Diggers"  dispute  the  ]mlm  of  ugliness 
with  the  Flat-Heads,  but  tliey  have  "  no  cliancv." 

The  Flat-Head  men  are  good  dispositivjned,  and  are  partly 
civilized,  owing  to  the  cfForls  of  the  Jesuit  missionaries,  who 
have  been  established  among  them  for  many  years.  Fatliei 
De  Smet  wrote  a  very  interesting  book,  Heveral  years  ago, 
concerning  the  Indians  of  the  Rocky  nu)untHins  and  the  mis- 
BioriH  that  he  had  assisted  lo  establish  among  them. 

I  do  not  know  how  tiuf  Flat-Heads  got  their  name,  for  thev 
do  not  i.ow,  nor  ever  did,  so  far  as  1  can  learn,  fiatt*  n  their 
heads.  Lewis  and  (jlarke  did  not  sec  any  Indians  with  the 
heads  ilatlened  until  they  reached  the  Jiower  Colnmbut 

The  Snake  language  i.-  talked  and  understood  by  m  the 
tribes  from  the  Kuuky  mouuujmH  to  (Jaiil'uruia,  and  froiu  tl^e 


goo 
the 

\ 
vicM 
fill.! 
ri<' 
thai 
will! 

h 
Im- 


th. 

-on  I 
thai 


T" 


MONTANA      AS     IT     IS. 


83 


Colorado  to  the  Columbia,  and  Lv  a  few  in  manv  tribes  out- 
side  of  these  limits.  It  is  to  this  region  what  llie  "  Chin- 
nook  jargon"  is  to  the  North  Pacilic  coast  and  British  Co- 
lumbia. But  Oregon  is  the  place  to  hoar  the  "  Chinnook"  in 
all  its  glory  ;  it  has  "  played"  the  English  language  "  square 
out"  in  that  land  of  rain,  fir-trees,  "  cloochmans,"  and 
"  camus  ;"  it  is  talked  by  all  the  inhabitants,  big  and  little, 
old  and  young.  In  travelling  through  this  "illiihe"  it  is 
n('C(>ssary  to  hnve  n  Chinnook  dictionary  in  your  j)ocket  or  an 
int('i']»ret('r.  Young  men  and  maidens  do  their  courting  in 
this  lovely  language. 

About  the  strongest  case  of  "  Chinnook  "  that  (iver  I  heard 
of  was  in  this  wise  :  A  preacher  who  was  exhorting  and 
comforting  a  young  lady  who  was  kneeling  in  great  tribula- 
tion at  the  "'  mourner's  bench,"  asked  her  :  "  tSistcr,  do  you 
love  your  Jesus  ?"  the  answer  was  prompt  and  to  the  point  : 
"  Now'-it-ka  siks  ;"  this  somewhat  "  bhitfed"  him,  but  he 
jtlucked  up  courage  and  said  to  her  ;  "  How  do  you  feel  now, 
sister  ?"  "  Hy-ass'  close,"  was  the  touching  answer,  which 
completely  demoralized  him.  ("  Now'-it-ka  siks,"  being 
"  ^'es,  sir,"  in  Chinnook,  and  '"  Hy-ass  ck»se,"  is  *'  Very 
good."  1  shall  append  a  Chinnook  dictionary  to  this  one  for 
the  benefit  of  j»ersons  going  to  Oregon,  Washington  territory, 
or  Britihh  i'olumbiH. 

While  I  am  on  the  subject  of  Indians,  I  want  to  give  my 
views  on  the  virtues  and  vices  of  the  '' n<»l)le  ro\\  man."  J 
lind  that  (-a]it.  K.  H.  Marcy  of  the  U.  H.  army,  in  his  "Prai- 
rie Traveller,"  has  done  it  exactly  to  my  mind,  and  I  think 
that  every  one  who  is  thoroughly  conversant  with  Indians, 
will  agHK*  with  him.     He  i-ays  : 

"The  Indians  of  the  plains  [and  niounl.iins  too,  he  should 
lijf.'e  added],  notwithstanding  the  encomiums  tha'  have  been 
lipsijtfd  upon  their  brethren  who  formerly  occiupicd  the  FiHstern 
sUtt'i*,  for  their  gratitnde,  have  not,  so  far  as  I  have  observed, 
the  most  distant  eonce[ttion  of  that  s(Mitiment.  You  may 
wnfer  numberless  benefits  ui-on  them  for  years,  and  the  more 
that  is  done  for  theui,  tho  more  they  will  exjiect.     They  do 


84 


MONTANA     AS      IT     IS. 


■■  ■    i 

5 


not  seem  to  comprehend  the  motive  which  dictates  an  act  of 
benevolence  or  charity,  and  they  invariably  attribute  it  to  fear 
or  the  expectation  of  reward.  When  they  make  a  present,  it 
is  with  a  view  of  getting  more  than  its  equivalent  in  return. 

''  I  have  never  yet  been  able  to  discover  that  the  Western 
wild  tribes  possessed  any  of  the  attributes  which  among  civi- 
lized nations  are  regarded  as  virtu(^s  adorning  the  human  char- 
acter. 

''  They  have  yet  to  be  taught  the  first  rudiments  of  civili- 
zation, and  (hey  are  at  this  time  as  far  from  any  knowledge 
of  Christianity,  and  as  fit  subjects  for  missionary  enterprise, 
as  the  most  luitutored  natives  of  the  South  Sea  islands. 

"  The  only  way  to  make  these  merciless  freebooters  fear  or 
respect  the  authority  of  our  government,  is,  when  they  misbe- 
have, first  of  all,  to  chastise  them  well  by  striking  such  a  blow 
as  will  be  felt  for  a  long  time,  and  thus  show  them  that  we 
ari'  superior  to  them  in  war.  They  will  then  res))ect  us  much 
more  than  when  their  good  will  is  })urchased  with  ])resents." 

The  o])inion  of  a  friend  of  mine,  who  has  })assed  th(!  last 
twenty-live  years  of  his  life  among  the  Indians  of  the  liocky 
mountains,  corroborates  the  o[)inions  1  have  already  ad- 
vanced upon  this  head,  and  although  I  do  not  endorse  all  of 
his  sentiments,  yet  many  of  tliem  are  deduced  from  long  and 
matured  experic'^^'e  and  critical  observation,     lie  says  : 

"  They  are  the  most  onsartainest  varjuinls  in  all  creation, 
and  I  reckon  tha'r  not  mor'n  half  human  ;  for  y^u  never  seed 
a  hninaii,  artcr  you'd  fed  and  treated  him  to  the  best  fixins  in 
your  lodge,  jist  turn  round  and  steal  all  your  horses,  or  any 
other  tiling"  h(!  could  lay  liis  hands  on.  No,  nrt  adzaclly.  He 
would  feel  kinder  gratclV.l,  and  ask  you  to  spread  a  blankist  in 
his  lodge,  ef  you  ever  ])assed  that-a-way.  But  the  Injun,  he 
don't  care  shucks  lor  you,  and  is  ready  to  do  you  a  heap  of 
Liuschief  as  soon  as  he  quits  your  feed.  No,  Caj»,"  he  contin- 
ued, "it's  not  tlh:!  right  way,  to  give  uni  presents  lo  buy 
peace  ;  but  if  I  war  govenor  of  themi  yore  Unlled  NtateH,  I  II 
tell  you  what  I'll  do  :  I'd  invite  luu  all  to  a  big  feast  and  maki- 
believe  1  wanted  to  have  u  big  talk  ;   and  as  soon  as  I'd  got 


Tli| 

tliej 
gnl 
th. 


w 
lli.l 

VM 

e.| 
foil 

ill 


"■. 


MONTANA      AS      IT      IS. 


85 


of 
ar 
it 


urn  all  together,  I'd  pitch  in  and  hc.J.p  abont  half  of  uni,  and 
then  tother  half  would  be  mighty  gbnl  to  make  a  peace  tliat 
would  stick.  That's  the  way  I'tl  make  a  treaty  witli  the 
dog'ond,  red-bellied  varmints  ;  ami  as  sure  as  you're  born, 
Cap,  that's  the  only  way." 

I  suggested  to  him  the  idea  that  tlicre  would  be  a  lack  of 
good  faith  and  honor  in  such  a  jjrocceding,  iuid  that  it  would 
he  much  more  in  accordance  with  my  notions  of  fair  dealing 
to  meet  them  openly  in  the  field,  .-ind  tlunv>  endeavor  to  pun- 
ish them  if  they  deserve  it.     To  this  he  replied. 

"'Tain't  no  use  to  talk  about  honor  with  them,  Cap  ;  they 
hain't  got  no  such  thing  in  'uni  ;  and  they  won't  show  fair 
tight  any  way  you  can  fix  it.  Don't  tli(>y  kill  and  seulp  a 
white  man  where-ar  they  get  the  better  on  him  ?  The  mean 
varmints,  they'll  m^ver  behave  themselves  till  you  give  'urn 
a  clean  out-and-out  licking.  They  ctm'l  understand  white 
folks'  ways,  and  tlu'y  won't  leain  'un)  ;  and  ef  you  treat  'tun 
decently  they  think  you  ar  atrard.  You  may  iie})t'n(l  on't, 
Cap,  the  only  way  to  treai  Injuns  is  to  thrash  them  wvll 
at  first,  then  the  balance  will  sorter  take  to  you  and  behave 
themselves." 

NoTK  54,  page  40  :  "Hoo'-e-jan"  or  "  S;ige  chickens." — 
These  fowls  are  the  connecting  link  brtwei  n  prouse  and 
turkeys.  They  feed  [trineipally  y^^w  the  leaves  and  buvls  of 
the  wild  sag(>,  and  are  never  found  where  this  shrub  dofs  m  t 
grow.  Their  flesh  i.-"  very  dn  k,  tough,  and  ill  fiavor^\l,  yet 
th(  y  are  eaten  by  both  white's  and  Indians. 

NoTK  5"),  ]tng<  40  :  '' To -sa  ciur-no"  or  "  NVhite  lodges." 
— The  river,  kw  ra.'ier  valley  lakes  its  name  front  some  little 
whiti^  "buttes"  Hliuidini^  near  lln;  river  al  the  lowi'r  end  of 
the  valley.  This  is,  du  tng  the  summer,  the  most  beautiful 
valhy  I  have  ever  seen  in  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  is  almost 
('(jual  to  Indiaiv  .aUey,  near  tlu^  Lassen  meadows,  on  the  north 
fork  of  Feather  river,  in  California." 

The  valley  of  Halt  river  will  proliablybe  available  lor  farm- 
ing jturposes,  with  (Vt;  e.\t'e])tu)n  of  the  more  delicatv-  kinds 


!■) 


\\ 


H, 


'  V  t: 


86 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


of  vegetables.  I  am  told  by  tlu>  Indians  that  the  snow  falls 
to  a  considerable  depth  in  winter,  and  the  cold  is  intense, 
rendering  it  dirticult  for  stock  to  live  through  the  winter  with- 
out hay  or  grain. 

This  rivin*  is  also  sometimes  called  "  O'-na-bit-a  pah"  or 
"  Salt  water,"  by  the  Indians.  It  takes  this  name  from  some 
salt  s])rings  in  the  mountains  bordering  the  west  side  of  the 
valley,  and  from  some  ledges  of  piu'e  rock  salt  which  are  said 
to  crop  out  in  some  canons  in  the  same  vicinity.  These 
springs  are  in  mv  opinion  more  highly  charged  with  salt 
than  any  others  in  the  world,  for,  if  you  dip  up  a  cupful  of  the 
water  and  let  it  stand  s<mie  time  beautiful  salt  crystals  will 
be  formed  running  thi'ough  the  water  in  different  directions. 

One  spring  in  particular,  which  comes  out  at  the  foot  of  a 
hill  on  "Lander's  cut- iff,''  spreads  over  a  tiat  of  about  four 
acres,  and  during  the  summer  it  covers  this  extent  of  ground 
with  pure,  snow-white  salt,  to  the  depth  of  from  three  to 
four  inches. 

The  melting  of  the  snows  each  spring  dissolves  and  carries 
away  this  salt,  which  is  replaced  during  the  following  sum- 
mer by  another  coat. 

These  springs  will  undoubtedly  be  very  valuable  at  some 
future  day,  when  the  country  becomes  poi)ulated  in  propor- 
tion In  its  resources. 

NoTK  Sn,  page  40 :  "  Toe-amp,"  or  "  S(>rvic('  berry." — 
These  berries  are  very  abundant  in  the  Rocky  mountain 
reginn  and  in  (^ililornia  and  Oregon.  They  have  an  in- 
sipid sweet  tasti^,  which  has  a  certain  richness  that  makes 
both  whites  and  Indians  fond  of  them  ;  if  eaten  to  excess, 
however,  they  will  cause  sickness  at  the  stomach  and  vomit- 
ing. The  Indians  gather  and  dry  large  qiuintilies  of  them 
tor  winter  use,  and  wlit  n  ])roperly  cooked  they  are  very  good. 
They  jj^row  u])on  a  hush  varying  from  two  to  twelve  te(  t  in 
hi'iirlit.  and  seldom  e.Keeeding  two  inches  in  diameter.  The 
Iwiish  is  inclined  (,(,  bo  low  ami  scrubby  :  the  wood  is  very 
hard  aud  tough,  and  is  much  uaed  by  the  Indiana,  who  uro 


HI 

sal 

lh| 

All 


re| 

a> 

til 

oj 


f 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS 


87 


Us 


veiy  expert  in  straighten  in*;'  it  I'or  arrows  and  ramrods.  One 
groat  drawback  to  the  Kocky  mountahi  and  Great  basin 
country,  is  that  there  is  no  hard  wood  growing  in  it  large 
enough  to  be  of  much  use.  About  Salt  lake  there  grows  a 
few  small  stunted  oaks,  and  a  scrubby  tree  called  "moun- 
tain mahogany,"  which  is  exceedingly  hard  and  very  fine- 
grained ;  but  is  too  scarce  and  small  tu  be  useful  for  anyt.jini; 
but  ten-pin  balls  and  "  faro  cliecks,"  &c.  There  are  some 
small  specimens  of  the  "  mountain  mahogany"  growing  in 
the  "  B^'averhead  basin,"  which  shows  that  the  climate  is 
similar  to  that  of  the  "  Great  basin." 

It  is  an  indis])Utable  fact,  that  the  climate  of  the  Eocky 
mountains,  or,  at  least,  that  part  of  them  lying  between  the 
Houth  pass  and  the  British  ])Ossesaions,  is  much  milder  than 
the  same  latitude  in  the  Mississippi  valley,  or  the  stares  east 
of  it  When  one  considers  the  great  elevation  of  this  region, 
tb.'  Milidm^ss  of  the  climate  seems  almost  incredible  ;  but  it 
is  known  to  be  so,  in  proof  of  which  stock  of  all  kinds,  even 
including  sheep,  winter  easily  without  having  feed  of  any 
kind,  except  what  they  get  on  the  prairie  ;  or  shelter,  except 
such  as  they  lind  in  the  brush  and  timber  along  the  streams  ; 
and  it"  tlicy  are  not  used  they  will  usually  gain  in  llesh  dur- 
ing the  winter,  and  come  out  fat  in  the  spring. 

i  attributes  this  inihlness  to  the  warm  winds  from  the 
Pacific  ocean,  which  evidently  reach  to,  and  in  some  localities 
cross  over  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  make  their  inlluence 
felt  for  a  considerable  distance  (;ast  of  them.  It  is  these 
same  winds  that  give  to  Washington  territory,  which  lies  in 
the  same  latitude  as  Cana(Ui,  New  J5runsvvick,  and  Nova 
Hcotia,  a  climate  as  mild  as  that  of  New  Jersey,  Dehiwaro 
rtnd  Pennsylvania. 

^oTi;  07,  page  40:  "  Ag'-gi  pah,"  or  "  Salmon  river" — 
receives  its  nanu'  from  the  large  nnmlx^-s  of  thoe  fish  that 
ascend  it  every  summer,  and  furnish,  from  time  imniemorial, 
the  subsisleiuu!,  during  the  latter  part  of  the  summerand  fall, 
of  the  "  Saliuou  River  BjiaHt^'«/' 


h 


88 


II  O  N  T  A  N  A      AS     IT      IS 


The  Mormons  formed  a  settlement,  called  "  Fort  Llmhi," 
in  Salmon  River  valley  in  18.'55,  and  farmed  with  great  suc- 
cess lor  three  years,  till  the  winter  of  1857,  when  the  Ban- 
nacks,  aided  and  abetted  hy  the  "  Sheep-eaters,"  rose  upon 
them,  kill  inn;  several,  and  takinjj^  some  three  hundred  cattle, 
a  numlier  of  horses,  ami  almost  all  their  grain  and  vegeta- 
bles I'rom  tlu'in.  and  then  compelled  them  to  leave  the  valley 
and  go  to  Sal  '  in  midwinter.  I  have  ntver  heen  able 
to  ascertain  ti  >e  of  this  apparently  unprovoked  out- 


rage. 


This  valley  ])resent8  great  inducements  to  settlers,  being 
well  timbered  aiid  watered,  with  a  good  soil,  and  a  sure  mar- 
ket at  Haniiack  City,  distant  thirty-live  or  forty  miles,  with  a 
tnh'nihly  good  ]iass  in  the  Rocky  mountains,  which  .run  be- 
tween them.  Salmcm  river  being  on  their  western  slope,  it 
is  the  <.nly  stieam  that  the  salmon  can  ascend  to  the  very  toot 
of  the  Rocky  mountains,  which  mak(»  (juito  a  bend  to  the 
west  at  this  ])oint,  and  are  the  dividing  line  between  Mon- 
tana and  Idaho,  Salmon  river  being  in  the  latter. 

The  winters  are  quite  mild  in  this  valley — about  as  much 
so  as  in  l^eaverhead  or  Dt'cr  Lodge  valleys — and  there  is  no 
doubt  but  that  the  mountains  all  around  it  contain  gieat 
mineral  wealth,  but  as  yet  very  little  ])rospecting  has  ever 
been  done  in  that  vicinity.  In  iiict,  a  very  small  portion  of 
the  territory  of  Montana  is  all  that  has  been  prospected, 
and  that  little  has  proved  to  be  universally  rich  in  the  [)re- 
cious  minerals. 

Note  58,  ]>agfi  40:  "  Po-ho-gwa,"  or  "  Snake  river." — 
The  Indian  name,  however,  means  "  Sage-Brush  river,"  and 
is  very  a])propriate,  for  the  up])er  and  largest  hali'of  its  im- 
mense vaHey  is  a  desert  sage-brush  pliiin,  thickly  strewn  with 
volca!iic  rock  of  all  shajtes  and  sizes,  with  scrubby  cedflrs 
growing  in  patches  in  the  stoniest  jdaees.  In  fact  that  part 
of  the  valley  lying  north  of  the  river,  and  between  the  "  Mar- 
ket lake"  and  ''(/amus  prairie"  is  a  vast  lava  bed,  about  one 
hundred  nu'Ies  in  length  and  fnmi  forty  to  sixty  wide  ;  the 


tr; 
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MONTANA      AS     IT      I 


89 


upper  part  of  it  is  much  brolcen  up,  but  in  the  middle  and 
lower  pcn-tions  there  are  many  places  that  look  as  if  they  had 
only  cooled  a  few  hours  ago,  when  it  has  probably  been  cen- 
turies since  this  fiery  flood  boiled  up  at  some  pomt  in  this 
plain,  and  spread  utter  and  eternal  ruin  over  this  part  of  the 
valley.  Some  of  these  })laces  present  a  ri))pled  appearance, 
like  a  sheet  of  water  with  a  gentle  wind  blowing  across  it, 
and  which  has,  imdoubtedly,  been  caused  by  a  very  strong 
wind — probably  a  tornado — blowing  across  it  when  it  was 
cooling.  In  some  jdaces  there  are  huge  fissures  or  cracks, 
caused  bv  the  contraction  of  the  lava  as  it  cooled,  from  one 
to  ten  feet  wide,  and  reaching  for  miles,  and  of  unfathoma- 
ble de])th,  for  a  stone  thrown  into  one  of  these  chasms  can  be 
heard  striking  the  walls  as  it  descends,  until  tiie  sound  is  lost 
in  the  bowels  of  the  earth. 

All  the  streams  ]uitting  down  from  the  mountains  into  this 
huge  lava  ficild,  sink  and  heccnne  lost,  and  maybe  seen  by  the 
traveller  that  passes  along  the  south  side  of  Snake  river, 
spouting  out  of  holes  and  fissure's  bi  the  per])endieular  wall- 
rock  banks  of  the  river  at  various  iicights,  from  twenty  to  two 
hundred  feet  above  the  water,  along  this  part  of  Snake  river 
there  are  many  places  extending  for  miles  and  miles  where  the 
traveller,  though  dying  of  thirst,  cannot  get  a  droj)  of  water, 
because  the  banks  arc  of  perpendicular  wall-rock,  of  volcanic 
origin,  hundreds  of  feet  in  height. 

There  are  many  falls  in  the  river  along  here,  and  T  find  the 
following  description  of  the  greatest  of  thiin  in  "■  Ij'echo  du 
l'aeifi(|ne,"  a  paper  published  in  San  Frarieiseo,  Cal. : 

"  We  lately  ])ul)lished  an  account  according  to  the  reeitaj 
of  a  traveller,  of  the  (Jreat  fills  of  Snake  river.  Since  lliN 
epoch  a  crowd  of  other  relations  piijilished  l/V  llie  Allieiiea?! 
])res8,  have  contirmed  the  details  of  the  first.  It  follows  llwt| 
these  falls  positively,  both  in  the  volume  of  wafer  which  lulls 
and  in  tin;  heightof  the  fall,  surpass  those  of  Niagain,  |l(|i'/n- 
fore  the  most  eelehrated  in  the  whole  world.  ■    l  ti 

"  A  visitor  has  recently  measured  the  diifere/if  fiijifi  of 
Snake  river,  and  he  has  given  to  the  '  News/  a  lie|s(*  l'/l(/'i/'| 


.:f  1 


90 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


published  the  nearest  to  these  falls,  the  following  account  of 
his  journey  and  his  experience  : 

"  'We  arrived  at  Ruck  creek,  distant  a  day's  travel  from 
Salmon  Falls  ferry,  and  we  set  out  one  morning  to  go  in  a 
straiglit  line  to  Snake  river  at  the  Great  falls.  After  trav- 
elling four  miles,  we  came  upon  them  without  having  seen 
them  or  even  heard  the  roaring  of  the  water.  This  was  owing 
to  the  great  height  or  rather  dejith  of  the  river  banks,  which 
rose  on  each  side  three  thousand  feet,  or  one  thousand  yards. 
We  could  descend  on  horseback  to  within  some  hundreds  of 
yards  of  the  friglitful  ])recipice. 

"■  'Quick-'ning  the  steps  of  our  animals,  wc  were  soon  at  the 
kncl  of  the  river,  above  the  falls.  The  scene  that  then  lay 
spread  out  l)efore  us  is  too  sublime  and  too  far  above  the  ca- 
pacities of  my  pen  to  be  adequately  described  by  me. 

"■ '  We  measured  the  total  licight  of  the  falling  sheet  of  wa- 
ter and  found  it  to  be  two  hundred  and  three  feet,  and  the 
pitch  commenced  twenty-five  or  thirty  feet  above  that,  and 
the  width  of  the  Great  falls,  according  to  our  estimate,  is 
twenty- live  hundred  feet  or  eight  hundred  thirty-three  and 
one  third  yards. 

'•  'I  have  vi^^ited  Niagara  several  times  and  I  sj)cak  know- 
ingly when  I  say  that  it  cannot  compare  with  these  falls. 

"  '  Four  miles  farther  uj)  the  river  we  saw  another  full,  but 
it  is  mufli  less  curious  and  remarkable  than  the  Hrst. 

'' '  The  water  is  divided  into  two  j)arts,  and  falls  a  perpen- 
dicular height  of  one  hundred  and  sixty-seven  feet, 

"  '  Whoever  crosses  the  i)lains  nowadays,  should  not  pass  so 
near  to  these  wonderful  falls  without  paying  them  a  visit.  I 
consider  that  this  visit  has  been  worth  an  entire  year  of  life. 

"  '  The  figures  given  above  can  be  relied  upon,  fur  we  set 
out  with  the  intention  of  verifying  them,  and  carried  with  us 
all  the  instruments  necessary  f(jr  measuring.'  " 

The  Salmon  falls  prevent  the  salmon  lish  from  ascending 
any  farther,  but  the  river  above  is  "  full"  of  very  large  trout, 
which  are  the  best  and  most  beautiful  fish  in  the  woild. 

It  is  a  singular  fact,  that  while  all  the  streams  on  the 


it 
tl 


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1'^ 


MONTANA    AS     IT     IS. 


91 


of 


of 


but 


western  slope  of  the  Rocky  luouiitains  literally  swaiin  with 
these  delicious  fish,  the  streams  on  the  eastern  slope  contain, 
as  a  general  thing,  very  few  of  them.  The  Yellowstone, 
however,  is  an  exception,  for  trout  are  plenty  in  its  waters, 
especially  the  lake  and  the  small  streams  emptying"  into  it. 
This  lake  is  about  sixty  miles  long  and  from  fifteen  to  twenty 
wide,  and  is  very  irn^gnlar  in  shape.  It  lies  at  the  eastern 
edge  of  a  vast  plateau,  in  wliich  rises  the  Yellowstone  river, 
and  the  Madison,  and  Gallatin  forks  of  the  Missouri,  Snake 
river,  and  some  branches  of  "  Green  river,"  whieli  is  the 
north  fork  of  the  Cohrado.  The  three  first  named  flow  into 
the  Atlantic,  while  the  last  two  empty  into  the  glorious 
Pacific. 

This  ])lateau  lies  at  a  great  elevation,  probably  over  six 
thousantl  feet,  and  it  almost  obliterates  the  Rocky  mountain 
chain  in  that  region.  Some  spurs  and  isolated  peaks,  how- 
ever, stand  around  its  edges.  It  is  swampy  in  many  places, 
and  it  is  said  that  some  of  these  swami)s  furnish  water  to 
both  octans — in  other  ])arts  are  craters  still  hot  and  smoking, 
and  old  mountaineers  tdl  many  strange  stories  of  "  fire 
holes,"  "  beds  of  hot  a.  s,"  "  boiling  swamp,"  "stinking 
tar  and  sulphur  springs,"  and  of  many  strange  and  startling 
sights  and  sounds  seen  and  h(>ard  in  this  volcanic  region. 

It  is  a  singular  fact  that  less  is  known  of  this  particular 
locality  of  about  two  hundred  miles  square,  'hanof  any  other 
part  of  the  Rocky  mountains  north  or  soui.j  of  it — Jii  fact 
it  is  almost  as  much  of  a  '•  terra  incognita"  at  this  time  as 
Central  Africa.  But  it  will  nt>t  l)e  long  now  until  ii  wii;  be 
thoroughly  exi)lored  by  miners  in  search  <'t'  that  particular 
ramification  of  "  the  root  of  all  evil,"  ycient  "gold  dust," 
which  is  supposed  to  abound  "  over  there." 

It  is  rather  near,  however,  for  miners  from"  these  di;j:gings" 
to  give  it  much  of  a  trial,  for  it  is  an  undoubted  fact  that 
the  farther  off  diggings  are  discovered  the  greater  will  be  the 
rush,  and  the  harder  miners  .vill  strive  to  get  there,  while 


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MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


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them  at  all.     "  'Tis  distance  lands  enchantment  to  the"  tale 
as  well  as  to  the  "  view." 

But  it  strikes  me  that  I  am  digressing  from  the  subject 
of  Snake  river  and  its  curious  scenery,  so  here  goes  to  finish 
it.  That  lava  field  is  an  exception  to  all  others,  for  instead 
of  coming  from  some  mountain  it  has  boiled  up  in  an  ex- 
tensive plain,  and  rolled  in  mighty  surges  up  to  the  very  base 
of  the  Salmon  River  mountains,  where  it  is  suddenly  cooled, 
presenting  a  very  singular  appearance.  It  looks  like  a  mighty 
billow  just  on  the  point  of  breaking  on  the  shore.  It  rises 
up  like  an  irregular  wall  to  the  height  of  from  ten  to  twenty 
feet  all  along  the  base  of  the  mountains,  leaving  only  enough 
level  ground  to  barely  admit  of  the  passage  of  wagons  along 
the  road  from  Fort  Hall  to  Boise  mines,  which  is  also  one  of 
the  old  emigrant  roads  to  Oregon. 

There  are  many  small  rocky  *'buttes"  scattered  over  the 
surface  of  tliis  great  bed  of  lava,  which  have  a  few  scattered 
cedars  growing  upon  them.  I  think  there  is  a  huge  crater 
somewhere  among  them,  from  which  this  burning  sea  was 
ejected,  but  it  is  mere  conjecture,  for  no  jiart  of  it  was  ever 
explored,  that  I  am  aware  of 

I  have  never  heard  of  any  traditions  among  the  Indians 
having  reference  to  this  mighty  eruption. 

It  is  noted  as  being  the  home  of  myriads  of  "  woodchucks," 
which  live  in  the  numerous  holes  and  cracks  in  the  lava,  and 
form  the  princii)al  article  of  food  of  the  Indians  of  that 
vicinity  during  the  spring  and  early  part  of  sunmier. 

Rattlesnakes  are  also  wij  abundant,  and  theL.e  playful 
reptiles  have  a  hal)it  of  getting  up  on  the  sage-bushes  and 
serenading  ])asser8-by  with  their  tails,  a  practice  that  is  held 
in  great  abhorrence  by  nervous  people. 

Note  59,  page  41  :  "  Pamp'-a-jim'-i-na,"  or  "  Sioux  In- 
dians ;"  the  Snake  name  means  "  cutthroats,"  or,  more  ex- 
actly, "  tlu)se  who  cut  off  the  head,"  alluding  to  a  practice 
common  to  the  Sioux,  of  cutting  off  the  heads  of  their  ene- 
mies, cutting  their  throats,  scalping  them,  and  carving  them 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS 


93 


up  generally,  -which  is  a  thing  that  the  Snakes  and  Bannacks 
are  not  very  much  in  the  habit  of  doing.  They  meet  the 
Sioux  on  Sweetwater  river  and  on  the  Big  Horn,  where  they 
go  to  hunt  buffalo,  and  when  they  meet  they  always  fight, 
for  they  have  been  enemies  from  time  out  of  mind. 

These  fights,  however,  consist  of  a  great  deal  of  shooting, 
yelling,  and  charging  around  on  horseback,  with  very  few 
killed,  for  they  generally  keep  at  a  safe  distance  from  each 
other. 

Note  60,  page  43  :  "  Pee'-a  tab'-ba,"  or  "  the  big  day.'' — 
It  is  used,  however,  in  the  sense  of  a  holiday,  and  not  as  a 
day  of  rest,  for,  with  the  exception  of  Salt  lake,  Sunday  in 
the  mountains  is  like  an  old  country  fair,  more  business  being 
done  on  that  day  tlian  all  the  week  j)ut  together. 

It  is  a  lamentable  fact,  that  the  great  majority  of  the 
people  of  California,  Oregon,  Washington,  Idaho,  Arizona, 
and  Colorado,  pay  no  more  attention  to  the  Sabbath,  in  a  re- 
ligious ])()int  of  view,  ihan  so  many  Japanese  would.  No 
one  would  ever  suppose  that  they  had  been  born  and  educated 
in  religious  communities,  as  no  trace  of  it  is  to  be  found  in 
their  language  or  conduct. 

NoTR  61,  page  44  :  "  Pawm"  or  "  tobacco." — Almost  all 
th(j  tribes  of  tlie  mountains  use  it ;  they  mix  it,  however,  with 
about  the  same  quantity  of  the  leaves  of  "  Larb"  which 
we!ik(>ns  it  and  gives  it  a  })Ieasant  flavor.  Tliey  will  not  smoke 
it  pure,  nor  liave  I  ever  seen  an  Indian  who  chewed  tobacco, 
which  shows  that  thoy  have  some  sense  any  how. 

Note  62,  page  44  :  "  Qiiee,"  or  "  quee'-ah,"  or  "  tobacco 
root." — This  is  a  root  about  the  size  and  length  of  the  linger, 
it  is  of  a  (k'ej)  yellow  color,  it  grows  in  the  bottoms  along 
many  of  the  streams. 

It  is  poisonous  when  raw,  but  the  Indians  cook  largo  quan- 
tities of  it  in  a  kind  of  kiln,  the  j)rocess  occupying  several 
days.  Wiieii  done  it  is  jjerfectly  black  and  very  sticky.  It  lias 
a  very  strong  smell  which  is  extremely  ofleusivo  to  those  who 


1 


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1: 


94 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


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are  "  not  used  to  it."  It  has  another  agreeable  peculiarity, 
which  is,  that  the  person  eating  it,  and  liis  clothes  also,  will 
smell  just  as  strong  as  the  plant  itself.  In  color  it  bears  con- 
siderable, and  in  smell  a  little,  resemblance  to  strong,  black 
plug  tobacco  when  wet,  and  for  this  reason  the  mountaineers 
call  it  "  tobacco  root."  It  will  sustain  life,  but  I  do  not 
think  it  will  ever  be  taxed  as  a  luxury,  but  "  quien  sube,"  we 
are  progressing — toward  what — God  only  knows,  and  he  won't 
tell. 

Note  63,  page  45  :  "  Say'-gwa  o'-gwa"  or  "  Miry  river" — 
and  it  is  rightly  named,  fur  it  is  the  only  stream  in  the  moun- 
tains where  the  mud  is  absolutely  bottomless  both  in  the 
stream  and  on  its  banks  ;  it  empties  into  Bear  river  on  the 
north  side,  about  fifteen  miles  above  the  outlet  of  "  Peg-Leg's 
lake,"  which  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  of  small  extent, 
however,  lying  a  few  miles  south  of  the  river.  The  Mormons 
are  now  beginning  to  ftirra  in  this  locality  which  offers  great 
inducements. 

This  lake  was  called  after  an  old  mountaineer  named 
Smith,  who  used  to  keep  a  "  trading  j)ost"  at  the  outlet  of 
the  lake,  and  who  had  a  wooden  leg,  which  he  got  in  the 
following  manner : 

Some  twenty  years  ago,  a  party  of  mountaineers  were 
gathered  together,  having  a  "  huge"  drunk,  when  one  of 
them  became  enraged  at  one  of  his  companions  and  shot  at 
him,  but  missed  him  and  broke  Smith's  leg  Inflow  tlie  knee, 
he  tried  several  days,  suffering  terribly  meanwliile,  to  get 
some  of  his  friends  to  am])utate  it,  but  none  of  them  knew 
how  and  Avnuld  not  undertake  it.  Smith,  the  lion-hearted 
seeing  that  his  l(>g  was  beginning  to  mortify,  filed  teeth  in 
the  back  of  his  knife  (there  being  no  such  thing  as  a  saw  in 
the  country)  and  sharp(>ning  its  edge  cut  away  the  Ih'sh  sear- 
ing the  arteries  with  a  i)iece  of  red-hot  iron,  and  then  turn- 
ing the  back  of  his  knife  sawed  the  bone  off,  and  bandaged  it 
up,  all  without  assistance. 

Ho  recovered  rapidly,  being  of  the  half-horse  and  half-alliga- 
tor species,  who  stand  as  much  killing  as  half  a  dozen  common 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


95 


men,  and  while  getting  well  he  made  himself  a  .  joden  leg 
which  he  still  wears,  for  he  is  living  in  California,  or  was 
quite  recently.  He  ever  afterwards  went  hy  the  name  of 
"  Old  Peg-Leg  Smith." 

How  many  men  could  amputate  their  own  leg  and  save 
their  lives  under  such  circumstances  ?  Perhaps  one  in  ten 
thousand — not  more. 

Note  64,  page  44  :  "  Tom'-maw  yag'-ge,"  or  "  thunder." — 
As  they  pronounce  the  word,  it  would  mean  "  winter  crying  ;" 
but  I  am  satisfied  that  the  original  way  of  saying  it  was 
"  tom'-up  yag'-ge,"  which  means  "  the  clouds  crying,"  which 
is  very  appropriate,  and  is  very  evidently  the  true  meaning. 

Note  65,  page  44  :  "  Wah  -hy  U'-gwut,"  or  "  The  Two 
Buttes." — These  buttes  form  a  prominent  landmark  in  the 
upper  part  of  Snake  liiver  valley,  o})posite  to  old  Fort  Hall. 
They  stand  in  the  great  lava  field,  and  have  apparently  been 
upheaved  at  the  time  of  the  great  eruption. 

Note  m,  page  44  :  "  Tec"  Win"-at,  or  the  "  Three 
Tetons." — The  Indian  name  signifies  "  the  pinnacles,"  and,  as 
usual,  it  is  the  most  api)ro])riate  one  that  could  he  given  to 
these  remarkable  peaks.  They  are  called  the  "  Trois  Tetons" 
by  the  Fnncli  mountaineers,  which  is  "  the  three  women's 
breasts."  They  very  freipU'ntly  give  tliis  name  to  isolated 
sharp  cone-like  mountains.  The  "  Trois  Tetons"  are  three 
very  sticp  high  peaks  of  naked  rocks,  standing  in  a  hunch  of 
mountains  on  the  right  bank  of  the  north  lurk  of  Snake 
river,  not  far  from  the  main  chain  of  the  llocky  mountains. 
They  run  uj)  to  very  shar})  points,  and  are  aitjjarently  inac- 
cessible. 1  never  heard  of  any  one  trying  to  ascend  them. 
They  stand  close  together,  and  are  very  notabhi  objects,  be- 
ing visible  a  long  distance.  They  tower  above  densely  wood- 
ed mountains,  among  which  are  some  beautiful  lakes  of  con- 
sidirable  size. 

Thesi!  peaks  are  very  curious  objects  and  will  become  a 
great  resort  of  sight-seers  in  times  to  come.     I  am  sure  they 


\  " 


f  f 


TT" 


1l 


96 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


'  :■: 


•■  ;iUi! 

:"  r  If » 


;:1I: 


will  well  repay  a  lover  of  grandeur  and  sublimity  for  a  visit 
to  them. 

Note  67,  page  45  :  "  Co-ah-wee^-haw."  or  "  turtle  dove." — 
This  name  is  evidently  derived  from  the  cry  of  the  hird, 
which  is  siuiihar  in  sound.  They  are  also  called  "  toag'-go 
in-day ts'/'  <^i"  "  rattlesnakes'  brother-in-law/'  which  name  is 
derived  from  a  strange  belief  that  they  have  among  them, 
which  runs  in  this  wise  : 

Whenever  an  Indian  mocks  one  of  these  birds,  or  kills  its 
mate,  it  tells  a  rattlesnake  which  way  he  is  going,  and  to 
place  himself  by  his  (the  Indian's)  path  and  bite  him  as  he 
goes  by.  The  snake  instantly  does  so,  and  gives  him  a  bite 
that  "  shuffles  off  his  mortal  coil"  for  him  in  double  quick 
time. 

And  if  an  Indian  kills  one  of  these  reptiles,  the  doves  sit 
on  a  tree  and  weep  and  lament  over  that  departed  snake  by 
reiterating  their  peculiarly  mournful  cry. 

Now,  it  is  nut  a  little  singular  that  these  Indians  should 
have  a  sujierstition  against  mocking  or  killing  this  bird, 
which  it  is  considered  a  sin  to  kill  among  the  most  civilized 
nations. 

Here  is  a  chance  for  learned  philologists  and  antiquarians 
to  "  wade  in." 

Note  68,  page  44  :  "  Tsin-ah,"  or  "  Thistle-root."— This 
is  the  rout  of  the  common  thistle,  which  is  very  abundant  in 
the  bottoms  along  nearly  all  the  streams  in  the  mountains  ; 
they  grow  to  about  the  size  of  a  largo  radish,  and  taste 
very  much  like  turnips,  and  are  good  cither  raw  or  cooked 
with  meat  ;  they  are  only  good,  however,  during  the 
months  of  March  and  April,  as  after  that  time  they  become 
pithy. 

They  are  much  us(  d  by  the  Indians,  who  also  cat  the 
young  and  succulent  stalks  during  the  months  of  June,  July, 
and  August,  on  the  same  principle  that  white  folks  cat  as- 
paragus and  greens. 


MONTANA      AS     IT     IS 


97 


Note  69,  page  46  :  "Woo'-ban  Pimg'-go,"  or  "Wagon." — 
The  Indian  name  is  "  wooden  horse,"  and  they  have  a  singu- 
lar way  of  affixing  the  word  "horse"  to  their  names  of  a 
good  many  things  that  were  unknown  to  them  before  the 
advent  of  the  whites  ;  for  instance,  they  call  a  common 
sheep  "  took'-oo  pung'-go"  or  "  mountain  sheep-horse  ;" 
they  call  a  goat  "  quar^-see  pung-'-go,"  or  "  antelope-hor?G  ;" 
they  call  oxen  or  cattle  "  quitch'-em  pung^-go"  or  "  buffalo- 
horse  ;"  they  appear  to  have  affixed  "  horse"  to  all  these 
things  in  order  to  distinguish  them  from  the  animals  they 
named  them  after. 

Note  70,  page  46  :  "  Ho'  o'-gwa"  or  "  Weber  river," 
U.  T. — The  Indian  name  signifies  "  Timber  river,"  and  tliey 
called  it  so  because  it  was  very  heavily  timbered  before  the 
Mormons  used  it  up. 

Note  71,  page  47  :  "  Pish'-ah  tim'-mo-dzah"  or  "Wil- 
lard's  creek." — The  Indian  name  is  ''  Eotteii-stone  point," 
and  is  derived  from  the  cliifs  of  rotten,  crumbling  stone,  just 
below  where  the  town  of  Bannack  now  stands  ;  it  was  a 
famous  locality  fur  mountain  sheep  in  days  gone  by,  as  the 
numerous  heads  and  horns  found  about  there  still  attest. 

This  creek  was  named  after  one  of  Lewis  and  Clarke's  party, 
who  is  still  living,  or  was  a  few  years  ago  in  California.  At 
the  time  of  the  discovery  of  the  mines  on  this  creek  the 
miners  called  it  "  Gra8shopj)er  creek,"  because  of  the  great 
number  of  these  "  fowls"  that  lived  there.  It  should,  how- 
ever, be  called  after  Willard,  in  remembrance  of  the  first 
white  man  who  ever  saw  it.  There  is  a  tendency  to  change 
the  old  names  of  Htreams  and  places,  as  the  country  settles 
up,  that  is  nuieh  to  be  regretted,  as  the  Indian  names  and 
those  given  by  the  early  pioneers,  arc  much  moie  ap])licable 
than  those  of  civilization,  as  a  general  thing.  Lewis  and 
Clarke's  party  passed  through  the  "  ITorse-prairiii"  gap,  and 
camped  on  "  Willard's  creek,"  about  half  a  mile  above 
where  the  stream  enters  the  "  canon,"  in  September,  1805. 
How  little  did  tliey  think,  as  they  passed  over  that  desert 


•V; 


Uv 


\   ! 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


solitude,  that  it  contained  immense  wealth,  and  that  that 
sage-brush  point  should  afterwards  he  the  site  of  a  mighty- 
metropolis,  called  ''  Bannack  Cit)-,"  in  which  I  own  two 
lots! 


'  I 


■■:1 


A 


r>ICTION"^RY 


OF  THE 


CHIlSr^OOK  JAEGOiq", 


IN  USE  AMONG  THE  TRIBES  OP 


OREGOiX,  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY,  BRITISH  COLUMBIA, 
AND  THE  NORTH  PACIFIC  COAST, 


WITH 


l»i' 


CRITICAL  AND  EXPLANATORY  NOTES. 


{i\H 


j.^  1 


BY   GRANVILLE  STUART. 


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m. 


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t*i 

f : 

¥ 

:i' 

■  .t; 

■  j' 

1  :*• 

■,i< 

^i 

iiii 

.;!l 

PREFACE. 


The  "Jargon"  so  much  in  use  all  over  the  North  Pacific 
coast  among  both  whites  and  Indians,  as  a  verbal  medium 
of  communicating  with  each  other,  was  originally  invented 
by  the  "Hudson's  Bay  Company,"  in  order  to  facilitate 
the  progress  of  their  commerce  with  Indians,  of  which  there 
are  more  than  fifty  tribes  in  Oregon  and  Washington, 
and  as  many  more  in  British  Columbia  ;  and  while  there 
is  general  similarity  of  language  among  them,  leading  one 
to  suppose  that  at  some  remote  period  they  all  talked  one 
tongue,  yet  each  tribe  has  at  this  time,  a  dialect  of  its 
own,  differing  in  many  respects  from  all  the  others  ;  and 
as  it  was  impossible  for  the  traders  to  learn  all  the  lan- 
guages, and  jet  it  was  necessary  to  have  some  medium  of 
conversing  with  each  tribe,  the  "Chinnook  Jargon"  was 
gradually  formed  and  introduced  among  them,  and  is  now 
universally  used  by  all  these  tribes  in  their  intercouse  with 
the  whites. 

The  "Jargon"  is  founded  on  the  language  of  the  "Chin- 
nook"  Indians,  and  the  bulk  of  it  is  composed  of  words 
from  their  dialect,  to  which  is  added  a  great  many  French 
words,  and  a  few  English  ones  ;  there  is,  besides,  a  great 
many  "  Nez  Perce"  words,  and  a  few  from  many  of  the 
other  tribes. 

In  writing  this  ''  Dictionary,"  I  shall  append  notes,  criti- 
cal and  explanatory,  for  the  purpose  of  showing  how  tliis 
"  Jargon"  was  formed. 


?1 


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k  i 


Mil 


;  't  '• 


.  i:i! 


»''■ 


■■  W'l '  '» 


'  ?     f  i;? 


K 


■  f 


,  k 


RULES  FOR  PRONUNCIATION. 


»♦• 


Give  all  the  letters  their  alphabet  sound,  and  be  careful 
to  emphasize  the  syllable  that  has  the  accent  mark  (thus  ') 
attached  to  it. 

Compound  words  determine  their  signification  by  the 
word  prefixed  to  them,  as  "  ty'-ee  pus-sis'-sey,"  or  "  chief 
cloth"  or"bhmket,"  means  superfine  cloth ;  "ty'-ee  house" 
or  "chief's  house,"  meaning  the  house  of  an  important 
person,  &c. 

Words  express  equivocally  nouns  or  verbs,  as  "ni'-kah 
waw^-waw,"  "I  speak,"  or  "my  word." 

The  letter  /  never  occurs  in  this  jargon. 

When  there  is  no  accent  mark,  emphasize  all  the  sylla- 
bles alike. 


'    ■   '  li 

1 

1.? 

Mi 

!    U 

DICTIONARY 


OF   THK 


CHINNOOK    JARGON. 


W 


ENGLISH.  OniNXOOK  JARGON. 

Ague Cole'-aick  (Note  1). 

Alms  (to  give) Mam'-mook  klah'-how-iam. 

Ami,  or  & Pe  (Note  2). 

Arm Le  mah'  (Note  3). 

Aimt Qnaw'-eth. 

Axe La  hash'. 

Alone Co-pet',  or,  ict. 

Always Qua' •     sum. 

Alike Cock'-qna. 

Angry Sul'-lux. 

Age En'-cot-ta. 

Afraid Quash. 

Angel Ta-man'-on-is. 

Arrow Stick  col-li'-ton  (Note  4). 

American Boston  (Note  5). 

Across En'-a-ti. 

Apron Ki'-en. 

All Kon'-a-way. 

Ah  I  (in  pain) A-nah'. 

Awl Shoe  ca'-pii-nt. 

Amuse  (to) Mam'-mook  he'-he  (Note  6). 

Arrive Coe. 

Autumn Ten-ass'  cold  ill'-a-he. 

As Kock'-wah. 

Ask  (to) Waw'-waw. 

Again WaW-hnth,  or,  worth. 

Ascend Clat'-ta-waw  soth'-a-le. 

Ahead E'-lip. 

\lmo8t Wake  si'-ah. 


I'l 


t' 


niit' 


If 


'  .    I, 


V     i 


;♦ 


J 

i  ■ 


104  MONTANA      AH      I  T      J  R, 

KNdi.lSII.  CIIINNOOK  JAKUON. 

Apple INiW-ilcli. 

AiiHWcr \V;i\v'-\Viiw. 

33 

Hciinl ('liii-pootcli'-iio. 

Wiick Kiiiip'-tii. 

({rnllicr  (cildiT) ('!i'-[>o. 

UnilliiT  (yniiiif/;(  i) Ow'-cy. 

HinMicr-iii-liiw Atl,H-y()('k'-ii-iriati. 

lilllllkt't I'llH-HiH'-HCy. 

Kill.' T'khil.^,  or.  chile. 

[{(■;i<Ih Kaw'-moo-HiKk. 

Biui M;i-H;irlr-a. 

Hy-aii(l-liy Al'-ka. 

I5arU'r Mah'-coctk. 

Hoy TtMr-iiaH  man. 

Uravc Skunk'-mii  tiiirr-tuni. 

Udiie Sloiic. 

liridle La  l.tTcd'  (Note  7). 

i^iiy  (Id) Mali -t;<p()k. 

|{(t()ts Stick  hIkm'h  (Xoto  S). 

By Co'-pa. 

Hoil Lip'-lip  (Nolo  9). 

BaHkol <)i)t'-(iiii. 

Baji I, a  Hack'. 

MiaviT Ki'ii'-iia. 

Mcar ItH'-liodtH. 

Uroad I'irc  Hap'-a-lil. 

Ball (\.l-li'-l()n. 

BniHH I'd  cliick'-a-iniu. 

niill<.ii Cliil'-chil. 

IMHciiil La  l»iH'-(pu>. 

IJerricH O'-Iil-Ic. 

Boivnl  (.r  plank La  j.I.ihIi  (Note  10). 

I'l'iiiK  (to) luk'-kiiiii. 

Hlackhi'iricH (!lick'-a-iinix. 

Uad  Hpirit Ma-Hacli'-a  tu-mati'-uu-wis. 

Befnro A'-lip. 

Bt'liiml Kinip'-tam. 

Bt'll Tiiin'-tiiiji  (Note  11). 

B<'y'Mid Tcu'-as  Hi'-ali. 

Hluuil I'il-pil. 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS 


105 


E.varjHri.  cimnnook  jauuon. 

'^''"•> ria'-|„  H.-lth'-hoHt. 

|{..W  (wCillH.Il) Hl.i(;k-llMIHkc(,. 

'*"x l.<...l<'-a-Hoj. 

'^''«<'l' Cnr-UiH  ti.iNitc. 

'5''"i<"l' Tliliick'-iilUi. 

I^'irl^y liii'nli. 

'*'■"•"» \'U)(,\n  (n-,  I.MK.in  (Note  12). 

'^iiT^'l Tali'-jno-lilch. 

l*«ii(!atli K(!k'-wil-l;i. 

'^""l"' T.'-IoohIi'  ^rluCO'   (Notu    l.'}). 

•broken Cock'-slitt. 

•5n!:ik  (((.) Main'-inook  (;(..;k'-Hli.'f. 

'5«>'<l" I.ii  bol.-lco'  (NoU:  H). 

\io\\ii\» Yock'-waUiii. 

'{'•'^'Iit Twiih. 

'{fit I.ii  cliatr-i(!l. 

'{'•'■" Matn'-inook  piHc. 

|{'»'I.V Itli-wool'-l.v. 

Horrow lvvalr-w(iol-|y, 

IJif.' llv-aHH. 

I5ii'l Ciil'-la  cdl'-la. 

'{•'I'iuiHo A  (s'-wali. 

Hrook 'IVii'-riaH  chuck. 

I5"tl» Koii-a-iiiDXt. 

J5<»ro  (lu) MiiiM'-iiKMik  tlila'-wliop. 

|{'!it  (((») (Aick'-iiln't. 

O 

dnVr Ty'-co. 

Cat riiHH(Vf)tc  1.5). 

Tdiiic  licro riiali'-cc)  Vdck'-wa. 

Catioc Ka-iiiiii'. 

<'nw <"lo()cli'-(riati  ruooa'-mooH. 

{Jcimc (-Iiah'-co. 

('nine  (t(.) (.'liali'-<j(). 

Carry  (lo) Lo'-lo. 

( "aiidlc l.a  clian-dcl  (Nolo  1 G). 

Color 'rHiitii. 

Cliair !,a  clniiRo  (Noto  17). 

Cnok  (Id) Matn'-iriodk  tiiiick'-a  iiiiick. 

Conceal  (hi) Ip'-Hoot. 

Chiiuney La  Hlmrn'-u-na  (Note  18). 


ti 


106 


MONTANA     AS      IT     IS 


K    > 


ENGLISH.  CHINXOOK   JARGON. 

Coat Capeau  (Note  19). 

Calm Ha'-lo  wind. 

Clean Ha  lo  ill'-a-he. 

Cry Cly  (Note  20).       . 

Cut  (to) Tlilah'-C'ope. 

Cellar Ket'-wil-la. 

Cold Cole  (Note  21). 

Cup O'-skuii. 

Curly Hun'-nel-h-keek. 

Carrot La  car-rot  (Note  22). 

Cabbage Cabbage  (Note  23). 

Crooked See'-py. 

Clams La-kutch'-ee. 

Capsize Kil'-a-pie. 

Come  en Ily'-iuk. 

Call  (tn) Waw'-waw. 

Cap So-ah'-pult. 

C..ftoo CnflVe  (Note  24). 

('ertaiuly Nnw'-wit-ka. 

Cedar I^  med-seeu  stick. 

Cirilf Ka'-<)0  ka'-oo. 

Chain Cliick'-a-niin  lope. 

Cart Chick-chick. 

Command  (t") AVaw'-waw. 

Count N[aiii'-mi)ok  cou'-cha. 

Crow  (bird) Caw'-caw. 

Cloth  (wiinlUn) i'us'-sis'-scy. 

Cloth  (cotton) I^il. 

Copper Pel  chick'-a-min. 

Child Teu'-nas. 

Chilly Ten'-uas  cold. 

Cra/y Til-ton. 

Coid  (to) Mam'-niook  cold. 

Country Ill  -a-he. 

Captk Tah'-uio-Iicb. 

Conquer To  -lo. 

CI'  'ck lly'-as  watch. 

Calf Tcu'-naH  inooB'  moos. 

TD 

Kaughtcr  (my)  Ni'-kah  tcn'-nus  clooch-man. 

Duck CuMacul'-la. 

Dig  (to) Mam'-mook  cla'-wliop. 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


107 


ENGLISH.  CHINNOOK   JARGON'. 

Door La  porte  (Note  25). 

Drive  (to) Mani'-mook  kish'-kisli. 

Deer MoW-itch. 

Dance Dance,  or,  tance  (Note  26). 

Dish O'-seun. 

Drink p,,t'-tle  lum  (Note  27). 

Dive  in  the  water Claf-ta  waw  kef-wiUa  cliuch. 

Down  the  stream Mi'-mv. 

Deceive  (to) >ram-mook  tal'-la-pos. 

Dark Key'-sep. 

Down Keg'-wil-lv. 

Day Sun  (Note  28). 

Daybreak Teu-nas  sun. 

Drink  {to) Mam'-mi>okt3uch,or,chuck,or,muck'- 

a-nuick  chuck. 

Different IlaW-lo-hah'-niaw. 

Dress  (a  woinau's) Coat  (Xote  29). 

Deep Klip. 

D^'vil Le  yob  (Xote  30),  or,  nia-sacli'-a  ta- 

inan'-on-is. 

Desert  (to) C'ap'-swal-la  claf-ta-waw. 

Difficult Ily-as  kul. 

Dead Mam -ina-looso. 

Dirty Por-tle  Ill-a-he. 

Dog Kah'-mooks. 

Don't  know Wake  cuni'-tux,  or,  clo-nass'. 

El 

Kye Pee-uli'-host. 

Kar (^)u(>-l(in. 

Knemies Ma-sacli'-a  til'-li-cums. 

Klk M.M.-luck. 

Early Teri'-nas  sun. 

Everywhere Kon'-a-way  kah,  or,  kah-kah. 

Enil ()'-bo..t  (Note  ai). 

Egf? Ea  sap  (Noto  32). 

Em|ity Ila'-lo  mit'-lite. 

Evening Ten'-iias  po'-lack-ly. 

Englishman King  (ioorge  man  (33). 

Enough ('o-i)et. 

Embrace Ba-ba. 

Elevate  (to) Mam-monk  soth'-a-ly. 

Enlarge  (to) Maiu'-iuuok  hy-as. 


I' 

■   J, 

i> 

'h 

'.  ■  '      ■■■;■. 

'\* 

It 

"i:'^ 


108 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


I 


I- 


I' 


ENGLISH.  CKINNOOK   JAROON. 

Extinguish Mam'-raook  mam'-a-loose. 

Earn  (to) To-lo. 

Eat  (to) Mufk'-a-miick. 

Eight Stoat-kin. 

Eighty ,Stoat'-kin  tot'-le-him. 

Frenclunan Pe-si'-oux. 

Face Seea'-host. 

Flea En'-o-poo. 

Fingers Le  niah'  (Xote  34). 

Feet La  pe-a'  (Note  35). 

Father I'aw'-paw  (Note  50). 

For  what Pc'-co-tu. 

Falseliooil {"lali-niau'-a-whit. 

Far  off Si-ah'. 

Full rof-ul. 

Fire Pi'-ah  (Note  37). 

Food Muek'-a-niuck. 

Friend Six. 

Fiiiisiied Co-pet. 

Fence t'lil  -lali. 

■"at Ily'-as  gleeco. 

^lowers Close  tii)'-HO. 

'orget Co-pet  cuui'-tux. 

\n)\ Pil-ton. 

Mag Sun'-day. 

'ox Tal-a'-pos. 

'hes Le  niooshe  (Note  38). 

'orenonii Fi'-lij)  Hit'-cuiii  sun. 

'ik- Lr  lini  (Note  39). 

'rog Shi\v'-\va-ka-iek. 

^)ol  (to  deceive) Lah'  lah. 

'ishhook A-kiek'. 

'isii Sa'nion  (Note  40). 

ear Quash. 

'lour Klini'-Miin  sap'-a-lil. 

'ryiMg|)an La  poo'-el  (Note  41). 

'allioni  (six  i'eef) Klh'-lon. 

'ade  (til) Chah'-co  spo'-ak. 

asten  (to) Mam'-mook-kow. 


Fl 


i' 


f; 

(J 

(; 

(; 
(3 

V, 
V, 

v,\ 

Oil 

(if 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS, 


109 


EXaUSII.  CIIINXOOIC   JARGON. 

Field Close  iU'-a-he  co'-pa  cul'-la. 

Formerly Aii-aw'-cot-ta. 

Fill  (to) :\ram'-mook  pot'-nl. 

Fork La  foo-shay'  (Note  42). 

Future Al'-ka. 

Fog Cul'-tus  smoke. 

Fil<^  (to) Maiu'-niook  lo  lim'. 

Fii'l TiCe'-pa,  or,  L-see'-pa. 

Flat Thluck'-ulth. 

Feather Tip-pa,  or,  Tip'so. 

First E'-lip. 

Four L(.ck'-et. 

Fourteen Tot'-le-lum  lock'-et. 

Forty Lock'-et  tot-lc-lum. 

Five Qiiiu'-\un. 

Fifteen Tot'-le-lura  quiii'-uiu. 

Fifty Qnin'-nm  tot'-le-lum. 

C3- 

Grandmother Chits. 

Graiulfatlier Cliope. 

Girl Teii'-uas  Clooch'-mau. 

Good ('lose. 

(Jo  away Clat'-ta-waw. 

Go  to  bed Clat'-t{i-waw  Moo'-sum. 

Gum Musket  (Note  43). 

God Sah'-hah-le  Ty'-ee. 

(jootl  H])iril Sah'-hah-le  Ty'-ce. 

(Jreat  luany Ili-vu'. 

(ioose Cul'-la  cul'-la. 

let  up Mit'-whit. 

Gamble Ithel-eoom. 

Great Hy-ass'. 

Ground IU'-a-he. 

Get Isk'-um. 

(irasH Ti])'-8o. 

Glass Hlu'-ioek'-um. 

Give I'ot'-Iateh. 

(Jift Cul  tuH  pol'-lateh. 

Green , I'-v'lioe'. 

Good  bye Klah-hoy'-yum. 

(Jreaso (Jleeeo. 


1  V. 


-rr' 


h 


110 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


I 


I  i 

:;i 

;  1 1 P  * 


f    r- 


i  ■■ 


«;.-ti'  V 


k 


ENGMSH,  CniNNOOK  JARGON. 

Grease  {to) Mam'-mook  gleece. 

Gum  (pine) La  goom  (Note  44). 

Head La  tate  (Note  45). 

Husband Afan  (Note  46). 

He Yock'-ka. 

Hair Yock'-so. 

Help E'-Ion. 

Hoe La  pe-osh'  (Note  47). 

Here Yock'-waw. 

How  many Coii'-ze-ah  hi-yu'. 

House House  (Note  48). 

Horse Cu'-i-tun. 

Hear  (to) Cum'-tux  co  -pa  quo'-lon. 

Hog Cosh-aw'  (Note  49). 

Heart Tum'-tum. 

Hurt  (to)   Mam'-mook  sick. 

Hungry O'-lo. 

Hat Sce-ali'-pult. 

Handsome Hy'-ass  cloBe. 

Hor Yock'-ka. 

Hole Chi'-whop. 

His Yock'-ka. 

Heavy Till. 

High Utle-i-cut. 

Half Sit'-cum. 

Halloa!   Nuh  ! 

Hail Knull  snans. 

Hammer La  mar-too'  (Noto  50). 

Hard   Roll. 

Hide  (to) T})-8oot. 

Hide  (of  aiiinials) Pkin  (Note  51). 

Hankkcri  iiiel' Han'-kor-chum  (Note  52). 

Hold(;o) Isk'-um. 

Hand Le  mah  (Noto  53). 

Hold  fast Quah'-tio  isk'-um. 

Hen Lii  j„„,l  (Note  54). 

How  largo (^on'-cha  hy'-os. 

Hurry Uy'-uck. 

Hit(fo)....    Quali'-tlo. 

Hunt  (to) (.'lat'-<a-\vaw  kah'-kah  nan'-ago  ic'-tn. 


MON  TANA     AS     IT     IS. 


Ill 


ENGLISH.  CniNXOOK    JARGON. 

Harden  (to) Mam'-mook  kull. 

Hell Ket'-wil-Ia  pire. 

Hay Tip-so. 

Hook Hook. 

He  who O'-cook  clax'-ta. 

Hindmost Kirap'-ta. 

I 

^(^rme..... Ni'-kah 

It O'-cook. 

^^ Spose. 

I»flia" Si'-wask 

I»'«" Chiuk'-a-rnin. 

I"  or  into Co'-paii. 

I«'a"^^ Teii'-nas  ill'-a-lie. 

Ice Kull  chuck. 

J" 

J"ke  (to) Mam'-mook  lah'-lah. 

J'lnip Soap'-aiiy. 

Joy :   U'-a-tle.  "^ 

l^ill  (to) Afam'-mook  mam'-a-looso. 

Know  (til) Cum'-tux, 

Kettlo Kt'tMe  (Xote  55). 

Key La  kley  (Note  56). 

Knitb O'-pii-cha. 

Kick Chuck'-i-in. 

Kiss Ba-ba. 

Kanaka Wy'-ee. 

!>aii(l Ill'-a-he. 

Lif;ht  (not  heavy) VVake  till. 

Light  (not  dark) Sun,  or  twa. 

Little Tcn'-nas. 

Long  ago Eii-cot'-ta. 

r^ong U'-tle-ciit. 


t'.  ii 


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t 

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112 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


W 


T' 


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i.    ■ 


I      I 


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ENOMSH.  CTIINXOOK   JAKOON. 

Leg Te-yah'-wit, 

Land  otter E-nah'-modka. 

Lad Ten'-nas  man. 

Look Nan'-ago. 

Lie  (untruth) Cla-iuan-a-wit. 

Lie  (to  lie  down) Moo'-sum. 

Leaves Tip'-so. 

Laugh He '-he. 

Lazy Cnl'-tiis. 

Live  (to) Mit'-lite. 

Listen Ne'-whah. 

Like  (similar) Kah'-qnah. 

Lower  (to) Mam'-raook  keg'-wil-la. 

Leave  (to) Marsh  (Note  57). 

Love Tick'-cy.  .  .    •  • 

Lame Cluck-te-ya'-wit. 

Last  (hindmost) Kimp'-ta. 

Lightning Sah'-hah-le  pirc. 

Lift  (to) Afam'-mook  sah'-hah-le. 

Large ITy'-aa. 

Lean  (to) Lah. 

Looking-glass Sho-lock'-iim. 

Lately.    Tt>n'-nas  en-cot'-ta. 

Lost Marsh. 

Long  A\  hile La'  ly. 

Is/L 

Mouth La  bush  (Note  .^)8). 

Mother Mam'-ma  (Note  59). 

Mine Ni'-kah. 

Men Til'-li-tMuns. 

Moon Moon  (Note  CO). 

Mnskrat {'ul'-tus  e'-nah. 

Many ITi-yn'. 

Make  (to) Mam'-mook. 

Mat Klis'-qnis. 

Mos(piito Mal-a-qua. 

Mocf-asins Skin  shoos  (Note  01). 

I^eat Tth-\y(»ol-ly, 

Mountain Ily'-aH  ill'-a-hp.     • 

Milk Tce-toosh'. 

Morning  , Ton'-na8  sun. 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


113 


ENGLISH.  CUINNOOK  JARGON. 

Mouse Ten'-nas  cole'-uple. 

Middle Cot-sick. 

Mud Cle-miu' iU'-a-he. 

Miss  (to) Chee'-pe 

Mad Sul'-lux. 

Mind Tum'-tum. 

Mark Tsum.  ... 

Molasses Lau-lase'. 

Midday Sif-cum  sun. 

Midnight Sif-cum  po'-lack-ly. 

Mill Moo-lah'  (Note  62). 

Mend  (to) Mam'-mook  ca-pu'-at. 

Man Man  (Note  63). 

Month Ictmoou  (Note  64). 

Maybe Clo-nass'. 

osr 

No Wake. 

Nose Nose  (Note  65). 

Night Po'-lack-ly. 

Nothing Wake  icta'. 

None Ha'-lo. 

Neck Le-coo'  (Note  66). 

Now Ul'-tah. 

Needle Ca-pu'-ut. 

Nobody Wake  clax'-tah. 

Nails  (iron) La  clue'  (Note  67). 

Never Wake  con'-cha. 

Nut Tuck'-wnl-lah. 

Not  yet Wake  al'-ta. 

Near Wake  si'-ah. 

Nine Quoits. 

Nineteen Tot'-le-lum  quoits. 

Nuiety Quoits  tot'-lo-lum. 

O 

Old  man Ole'  laan  (Note  68). 

Old  woman Lam'-ya. 

Open  (to) Hi-luck. 

On Co'-pa. 

Over  (above) Sah'-hah-le. 

Over  (other  side) En'-a-ti. 

8 


e 


114 


MONTANA      AS     IT     IS. 


■IM 


I    1 


■  A 


ENaiJSH.  CHIN  NOOK  JABQON. 

Oats La  wain  (Note  69). 

Out  of  doors Klah'-haw-uy. 

Obtain Isk'-um. 

Other Ha'-lo  a-mah'. 

Overcoat Cah-po'  (Note  70). 

One let. 

Oar Le  lam  (Note  71).    . 

Only Co -pet  o'-cook. 

One  hundred let  tock'-a-moo'-nuck. 

One  thousand Tot'-le-lum  tock'-a-moo'-nuck. 

Potato Wap'-a-too. 

Present  (gift) Cul'-tus  pot'-latch. 

Powder  (gun) Po'-lal-ly. 

Perhaps Clo-nass'. 

Panta Se-cah'-lux. 

Plate La  see-et'  (Note  72). 

Pipe La  peep'  (Note  73). 

Paddle Is'-siek.  •    ■ 

Pin Qua'-qua-uts. 

Peas La  poo-aw'  (Note  74). 

Porpoise Qui-cee-o. 

Priest La  prate  (Note  75). 

Path O-e-hut. 

Pleased Qu-a-tle. 

Paint  (to) Mit'-lite  point. 

Pour  (to) Whah. 

Red... Pill. 

Relation,  or  kindred Til'-a-cum. 

Rise Mit'-whiu 

River Hig'-ass  chuck. 

Rain Snass. 

Run Coo-ree'  (Note  76). 

Rope Lope  (Note  77). 

Round Lu'-lu. 

Rum juum  (Note  78). 

Rattle She-aw. 

Rooster La  cock  (Note  79). 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


115 


ENGU8H.  CHINNOOK  JAROON. 

Ribbon La  loo-pee. 

I^t Hole'-hole. 

Rotten Poo-ry. 

Return Chali'-co  kil'-a-pie. 

Road Oo'-e-hut. 

Relate Ye'-em. 

Run  away Cap'-swal-la  clat'-a-waw. 

Rudder O'-puts. 

Row(to) Mam'-mook le  lam". 

Strike  (to) Cock'-shet. 

Shoot  (to) Poo. 

Speak  (to) Waw'-waw. 

See  (to) Nan'-age. 

Soon Wake  le-ly. 

Steamboat Pia  ship  (Note  80). 

Sour Quaits. 

Stand Mit'-whit. 

Snake O'-luck. 

Snow .Tie'-cope  snass  (Note  81). 

Sorry Sick  ttim'-tiim. 

Summer Warm  ill-a-he. 

Sing Shor-tay'  (Note  82). 

Swim Shet'Hsum. 

Silver Tie'-cope  chink'-a-min. 

Shut let  poo'-ee. 

Spear Cock'-shet  stick. 

Squirrel Quis'-quis. 

Saddle La  sel  (Note  83). 

Saw  (instrument) La  see. 

Shovel La  pell  (Note  84). 

Slave E-li'-ta. 

Short D-cho-cut. 

Steal Cap'-8wal-la. 

Sweet Tsee. 

Salmon Salmon  (Note  85). 

Sleep Moo'-sura. 

She Yock'-kah. 

Sister Atts. 

Sneak Tal-arpoa. 

Sit  down Mit'-lit«. 


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116 


31  ON  TAN  A     AS     IT     IS 


4-'. 


V  ^ 


ENGLISH.  CHINNOOK   JARGON. 

Soft Clah'-men. 

Shot  pouch Cal'-liton  la  sack  (Note  86). 

Strawberries AW-rno-tah.  , .  . 

Sheep La  rimt-to'  (Note  87). 

Stirrup Sit'-lee. 

Spurs Le  sib-ro'  (Note  88). 

Skunk Piii'-pin,  or,  scu-boo'. 

Silk La  swag  (Note  89). 

SpiU Wah. 

Slow Klah'-wah. 

Stars Chil'-chil. 

Sandwich  Islander Wv'-ce. 

Spc.tted La  kye  (Note  90). 

Store ^fa-cook'  house. 

Snare La  pe-age'  (Note  91).      .     . 

Sharp Yeah-kis'-ick. 

Smell Hum. 

Split Klah'-klah. 

Soften Cle-men. 

Stag Man  mow'-itch. 

Seek Nan'-age. 

Scissors La  cis-zo  (Note  92). 

Sew Mam  -mook  ca-pu-ut. 

Shake Ilul-hul. 

Subdue Quawn. 

Scare Qiiaw'-so. 

Sink Clip. 

Send  (to) Clat'-ta-waw. 

Strong Skook'-um. 

Seal  (sea  animal) Olk'-hi-vu'. 

Sea Hy'-ass  salt  chuck 

Show  (to) ." Nan -age. 

Since Ats -wah. 

Sometimes Ict'-ict. 

Sunset Klip  sun. 

Sell Mah-cook'. 

Six , Tah'-hum. 

Sixteen Tot'-le-lum  tah'-hum. 

Sixty Tah'-hum  tot'-le-lum. 

Seven Sin'-a-inox. 

Seventeen Tot'-le-lum  sin'-a-  mox. 

Seventy Siu'-a-mox  tot'-le-lum. 


MONTANA      AS     ITIS 


117 


BNOLISH.  CniXXOOK   JARQO.V. 

T 

T^^^ Lotav. 

That O'-cook. 

'^'^^  over Kil-a-pie. 

To-morrow To-mah'-lah  (Note  93). 

^"^^^y 0-co„k-8un. 

They  or  them Klas-kah. 

Take Isk'-ura. 

T"t>acco Ki-uolth. 

Trade Hoa'-hoa. 

Tear Mam-mook  klaJi'. 

Trouble Mani-mook  till. 

Tree Mif-whit  stick. 

Throw Marsh. 

Tattle  (t.>) Ya'-yim. 

Tongue La  lunk'  (Xote  94). 

Thank  you Mer-see'  (Note  95). 

Tie Cow. 

^  ^o Ta-mo-liteh. 

Tame Quawn. 

Tail O'-pock. 

Table La  turn'  (Note  96). 

Twine   Ten'-nas  lope. 

Thread Cla-pite. 

Thirsty O-lo  chuck. 

Twilight Twah. 

Tired Till. 

Twice Afoxt. 

Tliere Yah'-wah. 

Take  care ! (/lose  nan'-ago 

Tremble Hul'-hnl. 

Towards  shore Mart-thol'-ny. 

Towards  the  middle  of  the  river ....  Nfart/-lin'-ny. 

Two Most. 

Three Clone. 

Ten Tof-le-lum. 

Twenty , Moxt  tot'-le-lum. 

Thirty Clone  tot'-le-lum. 

XT 

Up Sah'-hah-le. 

Under Ket'-wil-ly. 


.^! 


ft 


i  . 


f 


!k: 


118 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


Hu 


m 


t  ^■ 


■', ;'. 


;j      '-    )  (. 'il 


ENGLISH.  CHINNOOK  JARGON. 

Useless Cul'-tus. 

Uncle Taut 

Us Ne-si'-kah. 

Untie Klock. 

Understand Cum-tux. 

Very  small Hy'-ass  ten'-nas. 

Very Hy'-ass. 

Vancouver  (fort) Kits-oat-qua. 

Vomit Hoh'-hoh. 

Wide Thluck'-ulth. 

Winter Cold  ill'-a-he. 

Window She-lock'-um. 

Wolf le-lo'  (Note  97). 

Who Clax+ah. 

When Con'-ze-ah. 

Wife Clooch'-mau. 

What Ict'-tah. 

Where Kah. 

What  for Kah'-tah. 

White Tic'-copc. 

What  color Kah'-tah  tsum. 

With Co'-pa. 

Wheels Chick'-chick. 

Wo Ne-si'-kah. 

Whale Qua'-nice. 

Wild Le  mo'-ro  (Note  98). 

Win To-lo. 

Want  (to) Tick'-ey. 

Well  then Ab'-ba. 

Water Chuck. 

Within Co'-pa. 

Write  (to) Mam'-mook  tsiim. 

Work Mam'-niook. 

Watch  (to) Naii'-aRe. 

Whip La-whit. 

Week let  Sunday. 


4     \ 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


119 


ENQUSU.  CUINNOOK   JAUOON. 

You Mi'-kah. 

Yours Me-si'-kah. 

Yellow Cow-wow-wock. 

Yes Nah'-wit-kah. 

Yesterday Tal'-ky. 

Year let'  cold. 

NUMERALS. 

One let. 

Two Moxt. 

Throp Clone. 

Four Lock'-et. 

Five Qnim'-uni. 

Six Tah'-hum. 

Seven Sin'-a-mox. 

Eight Stoat'-kin. 

Nine Quoits. 

Ten Tot'-le-lum. 

Twenty Moxt  tot'-le-lum. 

rj^ljirty ^ Clone  tot'-le-lum. 

One  hundred I'-'t  took'-a-moo'-nuck. 

One  thousand Tof-le-lum  tock'-a-moo'-nuck. 


' 

aI 


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II      f f 


SHORT    DIALOGUES 

....  * 

IN 

CHINNOOK    JARGON. 

•♦« 

ENGIJSn.  .  CHINNOOK  JARGON. 

Good  morning:,  \ 

Goou  evening,  i  friend Kla-how'-iam  six. 

Good  day,  )  

Come  here Chah'-cn  yock'-wah. 

How  are  you  ? Kah'-ta  nii'-kah  ? 

Are  you  8iek  ? l^iek  iiah  ?*  nii'-kah  ? 

A  little,  a  little  fever Ten'-us  eole'-siek. 

Are  you  hungry  ? Nah  ?  o'-lo  mi -kali  ? 

Are  you  thirsty  ? Nidi  ?  o'-lo  ehuek  mi'-kah  ? 

Will  you  take  something  to  eat  ?. . . .  Mi'-kah  nali  ?  tiek'-ey-nuck'-a-muck ? 

„-.,,  ,    ,,  o  I  Mi'-kah  iiah  ?    tiek-ey-mam-raook 

Will  you  work  tor  mc  ? {      ,  .  ,    ,   „ 

(      ten'-nas  ick'-ta  ? 

At  what  ? lek'-tuh  ? 

Cut  some  wood Mam'-mook  stick. 

C.-rtainly Con-wil-kah. 

( Con'-ze-ah  tol'-lah   mi'-kah   tiek'-oy 
What  will  you  talce  to  cut  all  that)      ^^^^^^^  mam'-mook  con'-a-way  o'- 

P*l«- (      eo-kstick? 

One  dollar h't  tol'-lah. 

That  is  loo  much.  T  will  giv  you  )  lly'-as  o-cook,  id'-kah  pot'-laleh  sit'- 

hulf  a  dollar   j      cum  tol'-lah. 

No  ;  give  me  three  quarters.  ,    Wake  nix  ;  y^ot'-lateh  clone  quah'-tidi. 

Very  well,  conimenco Close  coek'-wa,  mam'-mook  al'-tuh. 

Where  is  the  axe  ? Kah'  la  hash  ? 

Here  it  is Yock'-widi. 

n..«  u  „,     u  r  ..  *i  ,  „*  ..,  t  Marn'-iiiook    ten'-naH     stick    spoflO 

Gut  it  small  lor  the  stove J  ' 

(      chink'-u-min  pi'-uh. 

Givo  me  a  saw I'ot'-latch  la  see. 

I  have  not  got  one  ;  use  the  axe Ha'-lo  hi  boo  ;  isk'-tim  la  hash. 

*  Null?    iH  idwavH   iisrvl   in   luakinn;  lui  InterrdKiitlon,  uiid  niuy  l)o  pluccJ  either 
lioforo  or  nfter  the  (irst  word. 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS, 


121 


ENQLISH.  CHINXOOK  JARGON. 

Have  you  done  ? Mi'-kah  nah  ?  co'-pet  mam'-mook  ? 

Yes Nah'-wit-kah. 

Bring  it  in Mam'-mook,      chah'-co      stick-co'-pa 

house. 

Where  shall  I  put  it  ? Kah  ni'-kah  marsh  o'-cook  stick  ? 

There.  Yah'-wah. 

Here  is  something  to  eat Yock'-wah  mit'  llLe  mi'-kah  muck'-a- 

muck. 
Here  is  some  meat Yock'-wah  mit'-Hte  moos'-moos  muck'- 

a-muck. 
Hero  is  some  bread Yock'-wah  mit'-lito  sap-i-lel  muck'-a- 

muck. 

Bring  me  some  water Clat'-a-waw  isk'-um  chuck. 

Where  will  I  get  it  ? Kah'  ni'-kah  isk'-um  ? 

In  the  river ,    Co'-pa  chuck  yah'-wah. 

Make  a  fire .Mam'-mook  ])i'-ah. 

Boil  the  water Mam'-mook  lip'-lip  chuck. 

Cook  the  meat Mam'-mook  pi'-ah  o'-cook  moos'-moos. 

Wash  tlio  dishes Wash  o'-cook  la  plah'. 

In  -what? Co'-pa  kah? 

In  that  vessel Co'-pa  o'-cook  la  plah. 

Come  here,  iriiaid Chah'-co  yock'-wah  six. 

What  do  you  want  ? Ick'tih  mi'-kah  tiek'-cy  ? 

Where  do  you  live? Kah'  mi'-kah  house ? 

Wliore  do  you  como  from  ? Kah'  mi'-kah  chah'-co? 

Where  are  you  going  ? Kah'  mi'-kah  clat'-tah-Avaw  ? 

Do  you  understand  English? Mi-kah  cum '-tux  Boston  waw'-waw? 

Are  you  a  Ncz  Perce  ? Ncz  Perce  nuh  mi'-kali  ? 


1'' 


■'■J 


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■M 


,'\  "i 


I  it 


it 


EXPLANATORY  NOTES. 


1^ 


Note  1  :  "  Cole'-sick." — This  is  a  corruption  of  the  Eng- 
lish words  "  cold  sick"  or  "  cold  sickness." 

Note  2:  "  Pe." — This  word  is  used  by  the  French  Canadians 
for  "  and." 

Note  3  :  "  Le  mah/" — This  is  a  corruption  of  the  French 
words  "  le  main,"  or  "  the  hand." 

Note  4  :  "  Stick  colMi-ton,"  or  "  the  wooden  bullet." 

Note  5  :  "  Boston." — This  name,  which  they  give  to  all 
Americans,  originated  as  follows  :  The  crew  of  the  first 
American  vessel  that  visited  the  shores  of  Puget's  sound, 
being  repeatedly  asked  by  the  Indians  where  they  came  from  ; 
thoy  invariably  answered  "  Boston,"  that  being  the  port 
they  sailed  from  ;  and  the  Indians  supposing  that  all  the  white 
men  who  afterwards  visited  them  were  from  Boston  also, 
called  them  all  "  Bostons,"  and  in  the  course  of  time  the 
name  became  universal  among  all  the  Indians  of  the  north- 
west coast. 

Note  6  :  "  Mam'-mook  he''-he ,"  or  "  to  make  lauirh." 

Note  7  :  "  La  breed" — is  a  corruption  of  the  French  words 
"la  bride,"  or  "the  bridle." 

Note  8  :  "  Stick  shoes" — meaning  that  thoy  aro  stiff  and 
hard  compared  to  moccasins,  and  that  they  reach  up  high  on 
tlie  leg. 

Note  9  :  "  Lip-lip." — This  word  is  derived  from  the  action 
of  the  teakettle  in  giving  vent  to  the  steam  when  boiling. 

Notk  10:  "Lai)lu8h" — is  a  corruption  of  the  French 
words  "  la  planche,"  or  "  the  plank." 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


123 


Note  11  :  "  Ting'-ting" — is  derived  from  the  sound  of  the 
bell. 

Note  12 :  "  Ploom"  or  "  Broom" — is  English. 

Note  13  :  "  Te-toosh^  gleece" — is  *'  milk  grease." 

Note  14  :  "  La  hot-tee'" — is  a  corruption  of  the  French 
words  "  la  bouteille,"  or  "  the  bottle." 

Note  15:  "  Puss"— is  English. 

Note  16  :  "  La  chan-deV" — is  a  coiTuption  of  the  French 
words  "la  chandelle,"  or  "  the  candle." 

Note  17  ;  "  La  chaise." — Pure  French,  "  the  chair." 

Note  18  :  "La  shum'-a-na" — is  a  corruption  of  the  French 
words  "  la  cheminee,"  or  "  the  chimney." 

Note  19  :  "  Capeau" — pure  French,  "  coat." 

Note  20  :  "  Cly" — is  a  corruption  of  the  English  word 
"  crv." 
Note  21  :  "  Cole" — is  a  corruption  of  "  cold." 

Note  22  :  "  La  ca-.  -rot" — is  a  corruption  of  the  French 
words  "  la  carrotte,"  or  "  the  carrot." 

Note  23  :  "  Cabbage" — is  pure  English. 

Notp:  24  :  "  Coffee" — is  pure  English. 

Note  25  :  "  La  porto" — is  pure  French,  "  the  door." 

Note  26  :  "  Dance"— is  English. 

Note  27  :  "  Pottle  lum" — is  derived  from  "  bottle  of 
rum,"  which  article  was  of  old  traded  to  them  in  exchange 
for  their  iurs  and  salmon,  and  on  which  they  would  get  glori- 
ously drunk — hence  their  name  for  drunkenness. 

Note  28  :  "  Sun"— is  English. 

Note  29  :  "  Coat" — is  old  English,  it  being  common  in 
the  "  good  old  times"  to  speak  of  a  "  woman's  coats,"  in- 
stead of  her  dress. 


•It 


\m 


124 


MONTANA      AS     IT     IS. 


1  ■ 


i<  . 


Note  30  :  "  Le  yob" — is  a  corruption  of  the  French 
words  "  le  diable"  or  "  the  devil." 

Note  31  :  "  0-boot" — is  a  corruption  of  the  French 
words  "  au  bout"  or  "at  the  end."  ■,■-■;■,;■>■ 

Note  32  :  "  La  sap" — ^is  a  corruption  of  the  French 
words  "  les  oiufs,"  or  "  the  eggs." 

Note  33  :  "  King  Goorge-man." — The  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany, and  also  the  "  free"  English  traders,  called  themselves 
by  this  name  to  enable  the  Indians  to  distinguish  them  from 
the  American  traders,  who  were  called  ''  Bostons." 

Note  34  :  "  Le  mah''" — is  a  corruption  of  the  French 
words  "  le  main,"  or  "  the  hand." 

NoTK  35  :  "  La  po-a'" — is  a  corruption  of  the  French 
words  "  la  pie^"  or  "  the  foot." 

Note  36  :  "Paw -paw" — is  a  corruption  of  the  English 
"  papa." 

Note  37  :  "  Pi^-ah" — is  a  corruption  of  "  fire." 

Note  38  :  "  Le  mooshi" — is  a  corruption  of  the  French 
words  "  le  mouche,"  or  "  the  fly." 

Note  39  :  "  Lo  lim" — is  a  corruption  of  the  French  words 
"  le  lime,"  or  "  the  file." 

Note  40  :  "  Salmon" — is  English. 

Note  41 :    La  poo-eP" — is  a  corruption  of   the  French 

words  "  la  poile,"  or  "  the  frying-pan." 

Note  42  :  "■  La  foo-shay'" — is  a  corruption  of  the  French 
words  "  la  fourchette,"  or  "  the  fork."  . 

Note  43  :  "  Musket"— is  English. 

Note  44  :  "  La  goom" — is  a  corruption  of  the  French 
words  "  la  gommo,"  or  "  the  gum." 

Note  45  :  "  La  tate" — is  a  corruption  of  the  French  words 
"  la  tete,"  or  "  the  head." 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS 


125 


Note  46  :  "  Man" — is  English. 

Note  47  :  "  La  pe-osV — is  a  corruption  of  the  French 
words  "  la  pioche,"  or  "  the  mattock." 

Note  48  :  "  House" — is  English. 

Note  49  :    "  Cosh-aw^" — is  a  corruption  of  the  French 
word  "cochon,"  or  "hog." 

Note  50  :    "  Le  mar-too'"' — is  a  corruption  of  the  French 
words  "  le  marteau"  or  "  the  hammer." 

Note  51 :   "  Skin"— is  EngMsh. 

Note  52  :    " Han^'-ker-chum" — is  a  corruption  of  "hand- 
kerchief." 

Note  53  :    "  Le  mah."— See  Note  34. 

Note  54  :    "  La  pool " — is  a  corruption  of  the  French 
words,  "  la  poule"  or  "  the  hen." 

Note  55  :   "  Kettle"— is  English. 

Note  56:   "La  kley" — is  a  corruption  of  the   French 
words,  "  La  cle"  or  "  the  key." 

Note  57  :    "  Marsh" — is  a  corruption  of  the  French  word, 
"marche"  or  "go." 

Note  58:    "La  bush" — is  a  corruption  of  the  French 
words  "  la  bouche"  or  "  the  mouth." 


- 1     ii 


Note  59 
Note  60 
Note  61 


"  Mam-ma" — is  English. 

"Moon"— is  English. 

"  Skin-shoes  " — is  English. 


Note   62:    Moo'-lah'" — is    a  corruption  of  the   French 
word  "  moulin  "  or  "  mill." 

Note  63  :    "  Man"— is  English. 

Note  64  :    "  let  moon." — This  is  a  mixture  of  English  and 
Chinnook,  "let"  boimjc  "one"  in  the  latter. 


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Note  65  :   "  Nose" — is  English. 


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126 


MONT  AN  A    AS    IT    IS. 


^ri 


:  '^: 


Note  66  :  "Lee  coo" — is  a  corruption  of  the  French  words 
"lecon"  or  "the  neck." 

Note  67  :  "  La  clue — is  a  corruption  of  the  French  words 
"la  clou"  or  " the  nails." 

Note  68 :  "Ole  Man" — is  a  corruption  of  the  English 
words. 

Note  69:  "La  wain" — is  a  corruption  of  the  French 
words  "I'avoine"  or  "  the  oats." 

Note  70  :"  Cah-po^" — is  a  corruptioc  of  the  French  word 
"capeau"  or  "coat." 

Note  71 :  "  Le  lam" — is  a  corruption  of  the  French  words, 
"lelame"  or  "blade." 

Note  72  :  "La  see-et" — is  a  corruption  of  the  French 
words  "I'assiette"  or  "the  plate." 

Note  73:  "La  peep" — is  a  corruption  of  the  French 
words,  "la  pipe"  or  "the  pipe." 

Note  74 :  "La  poo-aw" — is  a  corruption  of  the  French 
words  "  la  pois,"  or  "  the  peas." 

Note  75 :  "  la  prate" — is  a  corruption  of  the  French 
words  "  la  pretre,"  or  "  the  priest." 

Note  76  :  "  Coo-ree" — is  a  corruption  of  the  French 
words  "  courir,"  or  "  to  run." 

Note  77  :  "Lope" — is  a  corruption  of  " rope." 

Note  78  :  "  Lum" — is  a  corruption  of  "  rum." 

Note  79  :  "La  cock" — is  a  corruption  of  the  French  words 
"  le  coq,"  or  "  the  cock." 

Note  80  :  "  Pia  ship"— is  a  corruption  of  "  fire-ship." 

Note  81 :  "  Tie'-cope  suass" — is  "  white  rain." 

Note  82 :  "  Shor  tay'"— is  a  corruption  of  the  French 
words  "chanter,"  "to  sins." 

Note  83  :  "  La  sel" — is  a  corruption  of  the  French  words 
^laselle,""  the  saddle." 


i  ].  f'':;; 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


127 


Note  84  :  "  La  pell" — is  a  corruption  of  the  French  words 
"  la  pelle,"  "  the  school." 

Note  85  :  "  Salmon" — is  English. 

Note  86  :  "  Cal-li  ton  la  sack"— is  a  mixture  of  French  and 
Chinnook,  "  la  sack"  being  French  for  "  bag,"  or  "  pouch." 

Note  87  :  "  La  mut-to" — is  a  corruption  of  the  French 
words  "la  mouton,"  "the  sheep." 

Note  88  :  "  Le  sib-ro" — is  a  corruption  of  the  French 
words  "  les  eperon,"  or  "  the  spurs." 

Note  89  :  "  La  swag" — is  a  ct)rruption  of  the  French 
words  "  la  soie,"  or  "  the  silk." 

Note  90  :  "  La  kye." — This  word  is  in  use  among  the 
French  mountaineers,  who  apply  it  to  all  spotted  animals. 

Note  91  :  "La  pe-age" — is  a  corruption  of  the  French 
words  "  la  piege,"  or  "  the  snare." 

Note  92  :  "  La  cis-zo" — is  a  corruption  of  the   French 
words  "  la  ciseaux,"  or  "  the  scissors." 
Note  93  :  "  To  mah  lah"— is  a  corruption  of  "  to-morrow." 

Note  94  :  "  La  lunk"— is  a  corruption  of  the  French 
words  "  la  langue,"  or  "  the  tongue." 

Note  95  :  "  Mer  see  "—is  a  corruption  of  the  French  word 
"  mercie  "  or  "  thank  you." 

Note  96  :  "  La  turn  "—is  a  corruption  of  the  French  word 
"la  table"  or  "the  table." 

Note  97  :  "  Le  lo  "—is  a  corruption  of  the  French  word 
"  le  loup  "  or  "  the  wolf" 

Note  98  :  "  Le  mo-ro."— This  word  is  used  by  the  French 
mountaineers  to  express  any  domestic  animal  that  is  wild  and 
shy,  or  almost  untameable. 


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■:1 


ITINERARY 


OF  THE  ROUTE  FROM  LEAVEXWORTH  CITY  TO  GREAT  SALT 
LAKE  CITY,  UP  THE  SOUTH  SIDE  OF  PLATTE  RIVER. 

From  Leavenwortli  City  to  Salt  Creek 3 

Good  camp,  wood,  vvatcr  and  grass. 

To  Cold  Spring 12 

To  the  right  of  the  road,  in  a  deep  ravine,  plenty  of  wood, 
water  and  grass. 

To  Small  IJranch 12 

To  the  north  of  the  road,  in  a  gulch,  good  wood,  water  and 
grass.     Here  enters  the  road  from  Atchison  six  miles  distant. 

To  Gmsshoppcr  Creek 1G§ 

Good  wood,  Avater,  and  grass. 

To  Walnut  Creek 9| 

I?oad  piis.^es  a  town  called  "White  Head,"  four  miles  from 
last  camp.  Water  in  pools,  but  there  is  a  fine  spring  three 
quarters  of  a  mile  below.     IMenty  of  wood,  water  and  grass. 

To  Grasshopper  Creek 17 

Good  camp  with  wood,  water,  and  grass. 

To  l!ig  Nemchaw  (two  miles  above  Kichl.and) 12| 

Wood,  water,  and  grass,  near  the  creek. 

To  Water  Holes 11 

On  a  ridge  at  the  head  of  a  ravine,  are  wood,  water,  and  grass, 
but  in  a  dry  time  there  would  be  but  little  water. 

To  Vermillion  Creek 10| 

Water  in  the  creek  not  good,  but  there  is  a  well  of  good  cold 
water  near  the  road ;  wood  and  grass  good. 

To  Big  Blue  liiver  Upper  Crossing 21| 

Good  ford,  fine  clear  stream,  sixty  yards  wide  ;  plenty  of  wood 
and  grass. 

To  Branch  of  the  Hig  Blue 17^ 

Camp  half  a  mile  north  of  the  road ;  good  wood,  water,  and 
grass. 

9 


I': 


130 


M  ONT  ANA     AS     IT     IS. 


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MILEH. 

To  Turkey,  or  Kock  Creok 15 

Good  sprin;^  four  hundred  yards  to  the  north  of  the  road. 
Store  at  the  crofising  ;  good  wood,  water,  and  grass. 

To  liig  Sandy 19 

Good  wood,  water,  and  grass. 

To  Little  Blue  IJiver 19 

A  fine  running  stream.  Camp  is  at  the  point  where  the  road 
turns  otF  fi'om  the  creek.  Good  camps  may  be  had  anywhere 
on  the  Little  Jilue,  with  excellent  vvood,  water,  and  grass. 
No  water  between  Big  Sandy  and  Little  Blue.  Tlie  road  runs 
across  the  hills. 

To  Little  Blue  IJiver 1H| 

Good  camps  all  along  here. 

To  Little  I'.Iue  Kiver 15 

Koad  strikes  the  creek  again,  and  keeps  it  to  camp.  Good 
wood,  water,  and  griuss. 

To  Elm  Creek 19 

The  road  leaves  the  Little  Blue,  and  runs  a  divide  to  the  head 
of  Elm  creek,  where  there  is  water  in  holes,  with  a  few  trees. 
Good  grass. 

To  Platte  Biver 20 

The  road  crosses  one  small  branch  where  there  is  water  some- 
times. Good  camp  on  the  Platte,  with  wood,  water,  and 
grass. 

To  Fort  Kearney 15 

Good  camps  about  two  miles  from  the  fort,  either  above  or  be- 
low.    Wood,  water,  and  grass. 

To  Platte  Biver 17 

The  road  runs  along  the  river,  ulicre  there  is  plenty  of  grass, 
and  occasionally  a  few  cottriiVtood  trees.  Here  the  buffalo 
generally  begin  to  be  seen,  and  the  traveller  can  always  get 
plenty  of  *'  butfalo  chips." 

To  Plum  Creek 16| 

The  road  runs  along  the  Platte  to  Plum  creek,  where  there  is 
a  little  wood,  with  good  grass  and  water.  There  is  a  mail 
station  at  the  crossing. 

To  Platte  River 22J 

The  raad  runs  along  the  Platte  bottoms  after  crossing  Plum 
creek,  and  is  good,  except  in  wet  weather.  The  road  occa- 
sionally comes  near  the  river ;  and,  although  the  timber  be- 
comes thin,  yet  places  are  found  where  fuel  can  be  obtained. 
Grass  is  plenty  all  along  here. 


"^ 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


131 


20 


15 


17 


16? 


m 


Mn.K?. 

On  Platte  River 23 

Tlie  roiul  continues  along  the  valley  over  a  Hat  country  where 
the  water  stands  in  ponds,  and  is  boggy  in  wet  weather.  Camps 
on  the  river,  occasionally,  but  there  is  little  fuel.  The  grass 
and  water  are  good. 

On  riatte  River 14 

The  road  continues  along  the  valley  with  the  isume  character- 
istics as  before,  but  more  timber.  Camp  opposite  Brady's  Is- 
land,    Plenty  of  wood,  water,  and  gra^s. 

To  Slough,  on  the  Prairie 171 

The  road  runs  from  one  to  three  miles  from  tiie  river.  No 
wood  along  here,  but  plenty  of  grass,  and  buffalo  chips  for 
cooking. 

On  Platte  River 15^ 

The  road  crosses  O' Fallon's  bluffs,  where  there  is  a  good  camp- 
ing place  on  the  right  of  the  road.  Plenty  of  wood,  water, 
and  grass  on  a  small  stream  which  is  a  bayou  of  the  Platte. 
There  is  a  mail  station  here. 

To  South  Platte  River 16^ 

No  timber  all  day.  The  road  runs  along  the  Platte.  Good 
water  and  grass  all  along,  with  buffalo  chips  for  fuel. 

To  South  Platte  River 17 

No  timber  along  here,  but  good  water  and  grass  at  all  points, 
with  plenty  of  buffalo  chips. 

To  South  Platte  Crossing , 8 

No  wood  along  here,  but  good  water  and  gra.«s,  witli  buffalo 
chips  for  fuel.  The  river  is  about  six  hun<lred  yards  wide, 
very  rapid,  witli  quicksand  bottom,  but  can  be  forded  when 
not  above  a  medium  stage.  It  is  best  to  send  a  man  on  horse- 
back in  advance  to  ascertain  the  depth  of  the  water  before 
starting  in  with  the  wagons  and  loose  stock. 

To  Ash  Hollow 19 

The  road  leaves  the  South  Platfo,  and  strikes  over  the  high 
prairie  for  sixteen  miles,  when  it  descends  the  high  bluffs  border- 
ing the  valley  of  the  North  Platte  rivor,  and  enters  Ash  Hol- 
low, where  there  is  plenty  of  wotxl  and  a  small  spring  of  water. 
Half  a  mile  beyond  this  the  road  reaches  the  river  where  there 
is  a  mail  station  and  a  '*  one-horse"  grocery. 

On  North  Platte 16| 

Very  sandy  road.  No  wood.  Grass  and  water  plenty  all 
along.     Plenty  of  buffalo  chips  for  fuel. 

On  North  Platte 17 

Road  sandy  in  places.  No  wood.  Good  grass  and  water, 
with  a  few  bufialo  chips. 


h  if?  )-i 


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132 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS 


MILFS. 

On  North  Platte IG^ 

Good  roatl.  No  wooJ.  Good  grains  and  water,  with  a  few 
cattle  c'hi|).s. 

On  North  Platte 18| 

Camp  oppofi'ite  "  Chimiiey  Kock,''  which  is  a  vory  j)eculiar 
formation  on  the  south  of  the  road,  and  resembles  a  chimney. 
No  wood,  but  good  grass.     Koad  muddy  after  rains. 

On  North  Phitte ...    17.\ 

No  wood.     Good  grass  and  water. 

To  Horse  Creek 16 

This  is  a  branch  of  the  North  Platte.  Seven  miles  from  last 
camp,  the  road  passes  through  "  Scott's  blulf',"  which  have  a 
strange  an<l  fantastic  appearance,  rcsiMubliiig  the  ruins  of 
mighty  castles  and  churche-,  with  battlements  and  towns  still 
standing.  There  is  generally  water  in  the  first  ravine,  about 
two  hundred  yards  below  the  road.  The  road  descends  from 
the  bluffs,  at  the  foot  of  which  is  the  Plati'%  and  a  mail  sta- 
tion. A  little  wood  can  be  obtained  at  Scott's  ^blutfs,  but 
there  is  none  at  Horse  creek. 

On  North  Platte l\\ 

Poad  fellows  the  river  bottom  all  this  distance,  with  wood, 
water,  ami  grass. 

To  Fort  Laramie 12 

i?oad  rough  and  rocky  in  placis.  'I'hcie  iU"e  wood  and  water 
plenty  ;  and,  before  many  trains  have  passed,  the  grass  is 
good  above  the  tort.  lSlail-,»tation  and  post-otficc  here,  with 
sutler's  store,  well  stocked  with  travellers'  outfits. 

To  North  Platte 10 

lioad  good,  but  hilly  in  places.  Camp  in  the  river  bottom, 
with  plenty  of  wooti,  water,  and  gra.ss.  There  is  a  hot  spring 
two  miles  above. 

To  lUtter  Creek 11 

There  are  two  roads  here  ;  the  upper  or  south  one  is  best  in 
the  spring,  or  in  v/et  weather.  Plenty  of  wood,  water,  and 
grass. 

To  irorseshoe  Creek. 17^ 

A  fine  camp,  with  good  wood,  water,  j'ud  grass.  'J'ho  road 
ibrks  here,  one  passing  to  the  left  o'.er  the  hill.>*,  and  the  other 
rumiing  nearer  to  the  Platte. 

On  North  Platte 20', 

CJo(\d  road  along  the  river.  (Jood  wood,  water,  and  grass, 
lio'.ul  crosses  the  river  at  twelve  and  a  half  miles. 


.   10 


1  7  a 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


133 


On  North  Plivtto 20|- 

Koiul  crosses  the  river  again,  and  llie  camp  is  two  miles  above 
the  moiitli  of  La  Prell  creek.     CrooJ  wood,  water,  and  grass. 

Oil  North  rhitte. 19 

Koad  runs  aUmg  tiie  river,  and  is  smooth  and  good.  The 
camp  is  two  miles  ahove  the,  crossing  of  Deer  creek,  where 
there  is  a  blacksmith  shop  and  store.  T'ood  wood,  water,  and 
grass. 

On  North  Platte 16 

Good  road,  with  wood,  water,  and  gr:i?s. 

On  North  Platte 13 

Good  road,  pnssing  the  bridge  wliere  there  is  a  blacksinitli  shop 
and  store,  also  a  military  station  and  a  mail  station.  At,  two 
miles  from  camp  the  road  crosses  (he  river  on  a  good  ford  with 
a  rocky  bottom.     Plenty  of  wood,  water,  and  grass. 

To  "  Rod  linttes,"  on  the  North  Platte '2i\ 

Road  is  very  hilly,  and  in  some  places  very  sandy ;  pas:?es  "  Wil- 
low springs,"  where  there  is  grass  and  a  little  wo xl.  CJood 
wood,  water,  and  grass  at  camp,  when*  there  is  a  mail  station. 

To  Sweetwater  Kiver 1 1 

The  road  leaves  North  Platte  at  the  "  Red  lliittes,"  and  strikes 
over  the  high  rolling  prairie.  Ciood  grass  and  water  at  canip, 
but  not  much  wood. 

On  Sweetwater  River •  •  •    ^^ 

Road  passes  a  blacksmilh  shop  and  store  at  the  bridge  just 
above  Independence  Rock,  six  miles  from  camp:  two  and  a 
half  miles  from  camp  it  passes  the  -'Devil's  (iate"  and  a  mail 
station.  The  Sweetwater  here  runs  belwcMi  two  perpendicu- 
lar dills,  i>resenling  a  most  .''ingnlar  and  striking  appearance. 
Take  wood  at  the  "  Devil's  Gate,"  tor  cam[».  Good  grass  and 
water  at  all  |)laces  on  the  Sweetwater. 

This  stream  lakes  ils  name  from  its  waters  having  a  kind  of 
sweetish  la^te,  caused  Ity  the  large  (juanlily  of  alkali  held  in  so- 
lution by  its  waters,  not  enotigh,  however,  to  cause  any  appa- 
rent deleterious  eifects. 

On  Sweetwater  River "^ 

Road  n\uddy  after  rains,  and  some  bad  ravines  to  cross.  Wood, 
water,  and  grass,  abundant  at  cmup. 

On  Sweetwater  River /    ^^ 

Road  runs  along  the  valley  of  the  Sweetwatw,  whore  there  w 
plenty  of  wood,  wale-,  and  grass,  in  places,  but  little  wood, 
liowevcr,  at  this  camp. 

Q 

On  Sweetwater  River 

Koud  good,  no  wood,  grass  plenty. 


134 


MONTANA     AS     IT      IS 


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On  Sweetwater  River 20 

Road  good,  no  wood. 

To  Strawberry  Creek 

Road  leaves  the  Sweetwater  and  ascends  a  very  long  rocky  hill, 
called  "  Rockv  Ridge."  But  little  wood  :  grass  and  water  abun- 
dant. 

To  the  "  South  Pass  " 

Road  crosses  the  dividing  ridge  of  the  Rocky  mountains  and 
strikes  the  Pfcilic  springs  (so  called  because  thej'  flow  into  that 
ocean  by  way  of  the  Colorado  river),  where  there  is  excellent 
water  and  good  grass,  provided  many  trains  have  not  passed, 
in  wbioh  case  it  is  best  to  continue  on  down  the  creek  formed 
by  tho  springs.     Sage-brush  for  wood. 

To  Dry  Snndy  Creek lo| 

Grass  scaice,  no  wood,  but  some  sage  and  greasewood  ;  watoi 
brackish,  but  drinkable.  If  many  are  travelling  together,  it  is 
advisable  to  send  some  one  ahead  to  find  the  best  spots  of  grass, 
as  it  is  very  scarce  in  this  region.  "  Sublette's  ciitott'"  turns 
otT"  to  the  right  hero  for  "  Soda  springs  "  and  Fort  Hall.  Take 
the  left-hand  road  for  Fort  IJridger  and  Salt  Lake  City. 

To  Little  Sandy  Creek 15 

Good  water,  grass  in  detached  spots  along  the  creek,  but  little 
fuel. 

To  F.ig  Sandy 18 

Grass  in  spots  along  the  creek,  and  but  little  fuel. 

To  Green  River,  at  the  Upper  Ford  and  Ferry, 21  j| 

Plenty  of  grass  .iud  wood. 

To  Greon  River,  at  the  "  Lower  Ford  " 7 

Good  grass  and  wood  below  the  ford.  Ferry  hero  in  lime  of 
high  water.  This  h)cality  also  boasts  of  u  mail  station  and  a 
"  grocery." 

To  IJlack  Folk  (Lower  Road) IG 

( lood  grass  and  fu(!l. 

To  Ham's  Fork 7 

United  States  bridge  here,  if  passers-by  have  not  used  it  »ip 
for  lirewood,  which  is  very  scarce  ;  no  toll.  Good  grass  early 
in  the  season. 

To  Third  Crossing  of  Slack's  Fork ^ 

lioad  crosses  a  high  ridge  ;  tho  ford  is  good  except  when  tho 
crock  is  high,  when  if  is  best  to  tak(!  n  road  which  goes  up  tho 
right  bank  and  aviiids  all  th<!  crossings. 

To  Fourtli  Crossing  of  Hliu-k's  Fork 14^ 

Good  roud,  linu  cuinp,  good  wood,  wuter,  and  grusa. 


» 
I 


m 


MONTANA    AS     IT     IS. 


135 


1.) 


To  Fifth  Crossing  of  Black's  Fork "'2^'? 

Good  road,  and  a  good  camp.  ^ 

To  Smith's  Fork 2^ 

This  is  a  branch  of  Black's  fork  coming  in  from  "the*  south.       ^ 
The  road  is  good,  but  very  little  grass. 

To  Fort  Bridger jja 

Good  camps  above  and  below  the  fort,  which  is  a  miii'taiy 
post,  with  mail  station  and  store. 

To  Muddy  Creek ^ g 

Good  grass  and  water,  with  a  little  wood.  The  grass  isVli'o'rt 
near  tiie  road  after  many  trains  have  passed,  but  good  feed 
may  be  found  by  going  up  the  creek.  Road  passes  a  fiae 
spring  three  nnles  back. 

To  Sulphur  Creek 17 

Poor  grass,  and  no  wood.  «  Qiuiking  Asp  hill."  beUveon  here 
and  Muihly,  is  the  ea.stern  run  of  the  "  Great  basin." 

To  Bear  River 2 

Good  canij)  with  w(^,od,  water,  and  grass,  good  ford  except  in 
time  of  high  water. 

To  Red  Fork  of  Weber  River 19 

In  "  Echo  Canon"  two  miles  below  "  Cache  Cave"  good  water 
and  grass,  little  wood. 

To  Webor  River I91 

Good  grass,  wood,  and  water.  Mail  station,  U.  S.  Bridge  for 
high  water,  tio  toll. 

To  Spring  Branch ,51 

l?(iad  leaves  the  river  and  strikes  into  a  little  valley  to  the  left. 
Good  camp. 

I  0  Beaudiemins  Fork 9 

Road  crosses  over  a  mountain,  and  descends  to  the  creek 
where  there  is  a  good  cami>. 

To  Big  Canon  Creek 14 

Road  crosses  Heaucluv.nins  fork  tliirteen  times  in  eight  miles, 
and  is  dangerous  in  high  water,  becaiise  of  the  extreme  velocity 
of  Its  current.  The  road  leaves  Beauchomins  fork  and  ascends 
"Big  mountain,"  along  a  small  creek  which  is  well  wooded 
nnd  luis  good  grass  ;  it  then  des(!ends  "Big  mountain"  by  way 
of  a  very  sleep  ravine  to  Big  Canon  crock,  where  there  is 
good  wood,  water,  and  grass. 

To  Immigration  Creek 0 

The  road  goes  down  Big  Caftou  creek  about  three  miles,  and 
then  crosses  '•  Little  mountain,"  wliich  is  very  steep.  But  little 
grass  or  wood  at  this  camp. 


'V, 


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1  ;• 


na 


I  V 


136 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS, 


MIT.EK. 


To  Great  Siilt  Lake  City lOi 

Foeil  lor  stock  can  be  purchased  here  and  so  ran  any  articles 
that  tho  traveller  may  require,  but  the  price  will  make  his  hair 
stand  straijxht  on  "eend." 

There  is  no  camping  place  within  two  miles  of  the  city  and 
and  it  is  best  either  to  stop  near  the  month  of  '"Emigration 
cailon"  or  to  cross  to  "  The  other  side  of  Jordan." 

RKCAriTULATION. 

Total  distance  from  Leavenworth  to  "The  city  of  the  Latter 
Day  Saints"    ]  IGU 


rriNERARY  OF  THE  ROt'TE  FUOM  C3REAT  SALT  LAKE  CITY  TO  SACRAMENTO 
AND  BENICIA,  CALIFORNIA,  VIA  THE  HLMBOl-DT  RIVER  AND  CARtlON 
VALLEY. 

Mii.r.B. 

From  Great  Salt  Lake  City  to  Halt's  Hanche 18 

CJood  road  but  no  feed  until  after  passing  Box  Elder  creek, 
because  the  country  is  all  fenced. 

To  Ford  on  Weber  Kiver ITj 

Good  road,  must  buy  feed  for  stock.     Toll  bridge  for  high 
water. 

To  1  Njint  of  INIountain \') 

Spring  water,  warm,  but  pure  ;    no  grass. 

To  Hox  Elder  Creek 125 

Excell(>nt  water,  but  grass  and  fuel  are  "  played  out"  in  the 
canons  ;  must  buy  of  the  settlers. 

To  Ferry  on  Hear  River 23 

Foiu'  miles  above  the  usual  crossing,  good  grass 

To  Snmll  S))ring 0| 

Cross  Hear  river,  below  the  mouth  of  "  Maladc  creek,"  which 
would  mire  a  saddle-blaidiet.     No  wood. 

To  Blue  Springs 17^ 

Grass  scarce,  no  woorl,  an  1  the  water  is  enough  to  make  a  man 
swear  he  will  drink  nothing  but  whiskey  henceforth. 

To  Deep  (Vcek 21  ^ 

Heavy  .«age-brusli,  but  good  grass  on   the  right  of  the  road, 
near  the  sink  of  the  creek. 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS 


137 


MILK!, 

To  Codar  Springs 20^ 

Good  "iiiiss  on  the  hills,  with  fine  wixter  and  wood  ;  rolling 
country. 

To  Kock  Crock 10 

Plenty  of  grass  t'  the  left  of  the  road ;  a  pood  camping 
place. 

To  Raft  Hivor l^ 

Good  eanip. 

To  Goose  Creek  ^lountain '22| 

III  this  ref.fion  there  is  tolerable  |)lenty  of  firass,  wood,  and 
water.  I'he  country  is  rouj:h  and  mountainous.  Tiie  road 
from  Fort  Hridiii-r  comes  in  here,  via  Soda  springs,  ai\d  the 
"Sublette's  entotl"  comes  in  by  way  of  Fort  llall,  on  Suako 
river,  ami  the  "Hudspeth's  eutolf."  which  turns  olf  at  Soda 
springs,  and  comes  in  again  at  Kaft  river. 

On  Goose  Creek 17| 

Hough,  broken  ccnuitry.  The  road,  however,  whieli  follows 
i\\)  the  canon  of  Goose  creek  about  twenty  miles,  is  good. 

Head    of  Tliousand- Spring  Valley 2S| 

J?oad  runs  »)ver  a  rolling  barren  region,  with  but  little  water, 
except  on  the  river  far  to  the  right. 

Thousand-Spring  Valley 251 

Good  grass;  very  little  wood.  Good  camp  can  be  found  at 
short  distance  along  the  road. 

Head  of  the  Humboldt  Uiver U 

Hue  camping  places  and  road  generally  good,  running  over  a 
rolling  counliy. 

Shtugh  of  the  Humboldt, 23 

Extensive  bottoms  of  good  grass;  not  much  wood. 

Humboldt  River 20 

All  along  (lie  Humboldl,  as  far  down  as  Lsissen's  meadows, 
the  iced  is  good,  exce[)t  during  very  high  water,  when  the  bot- 
toms are  overflowed,  nudving  it  necessary  to  take  the  nv.vl  on 
the  blufls,  Avhere  grass  is  scarce.  The  river,  when  not  above 
a  fording  stage,  can  be  forded  at  almost  any  point,  and  good 
camps  <'an  be  Ibnnd  at  .short  intervals.  There  are  places  ali/Ug 
the  river  where  alkali  ponds  are  frecpient.  These  are  poison- 
ous to  stock,  and  shoidd  be  avoided  by  travellers.  It  is  well, 
along  this  river,  not  to  allow  aninuds  to  drink  any  water  ex- 
cept Iroin  the  river,  where  it  is  running. 

Hiunbol.lt  River 20 

Good  camps  all  along. 


i 


i  3 


m 


138 


MONTANA    AS     IT     IS. 


;■'-  ■*.!; 


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m 


Humboldt  River 

Good  camps  along  the  valley. 

Humboldt  River  (willows  and  sage  for  fuel) . 


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•    •••«•«! 


Knxa. 

22 

23 

13^ 

101 

25 

13| 

24 

24i 

20J 

m 


Lassen's  Meadows 

The  feed  is  good  here,  as  the  name  implies.  The  road  forks 
here — the  left-hand  one  going  to  Sacramento  city,  via  the  sink 
of  the  Humboldt  river  and  Carson  valley  ;  this  itinerary  fol- 
lows this  road.  The  right-hand  road  goes  to  Rabl)it  Spring 
wells,  twenty-seven  and  three  fourths  miles,  where  it  forks 
again,  the  loft-l>and  one  going  to  Honey  Lake  valley,  and  the 
right  one  to  Rdgue  River  valley,  Oregon,  and  Yrcka,  Califor- 
nia.    I  will  insert  itineraries  of  all  these  routes. 

On  Humboldt  river 33| 

Gras,s  anil  water  poor  all  the  way  to  the  sink.  Willows  for 
wood. 

Sink  of  the  Humboldt 19^ 

The  water  at  the  s^I'iV  is  strongly  impregnated  with  alkali. 
The  road  is  generally  goo '.,  but  awful  dusty.  Much  stock  dies 
along  here,  Travellers  should  not  let  their  stock  drink  too 
freely  along  here. 

Head  Sink  of  Humboldt 26 

Road  good,  but  miserublo  water. 

Carson  River 45 

Road  crosses  the  desert,  where  there  is  no  water  for  stock,  but 
there  is  a  well  where  travellers  can  purchase  water  to  drink. 
This  part  of  the  road  should  be  travelled  ii\  the  cool  of  the  day 
and  at  night.  Good  grass  and  water  where  the  road  strikes 
Carson. 

Carson  River 2 

Good  bunch  grass  near  the  road. 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS, 


139 


Carson  River 

Twenty-six  miles  of  desert  where  there  is  no  grass  of  any  con- 
seiiuence. 

Eagle  Ranch 

Good  grass  and  water. 

Reese's  Ranch 

Good  grass  and  water. 

Williams'  Ranch 

Good  grass  and  water, 

Hope  Valley 

Road  rough  and  rocky.    (Carson  City.) 

Nnar  Sierra 

Good  camp,  with  water  and  graps. 

First  Smnmit 

Road  rough  and  rocky  ;  good  water  ;  no  grass. 

Second  Summit 

Road  mountainous  and  very  steep  ;    snow  nearly  all  the  year. 

Red  Lake 

Good  camp. 

Leek  Springs 

Good  grais  near  the  road. 


Traders'  Creek 

(Jrass  and  fuel  scarce. 


Sly  Park 

Grass  and  fuel  near  the  road. 


Miuta. 
30 


14 

13 

12 

15 

3 

7 

2 

10 
12 
10 
12 


Forty-Mile  I  louse 

Water  [)lonty  ;  grass  scarce. 


Sacramento  Valley 

Water  plenty  ;  purchase  forage. 


Sacramento  City , 

Water  plenty  ;  purchase  forage. 


Total  distance  from  Great  Salt  liako  City  to  Sacramento  City, 
Total  distance  to  Renecia 


805 
973 


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140  MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 

ITIXEHARY    OF   THE  ROUTE  FROM    GREAT    SALT  LAKE    CITY   TO  I.OS    AXGELOS, 
AND    THENCE    TO    SAN    FRANCISCO,  VIA  THE    "  SGITHERX  ROITE." 

MJLR!. 

Salt  Lake  City  to  Willow  Creek 20'' 

Good  grass. 

American  Creek 14 

Good  grass. 

Provo  City Ill 

Buy  forage,  &c. 

Hobble  Creek 7^ 

Good  camp. 

Spanish  Fork G 

Good  eani[). 

Peteetucet 5 

Good  camp. 

Salt  Creek 25 

Several  .small  creeks  between  ;  good  camp. 

Tide  Creek 18^' 

Ford  ;  no  wood  ;  grass  good. 

Sevier  Hiver G^ 

Koad  is  sandy  passing  over  a  liigli  ridge  ;  good  camp. 

Cedar  Creek 25^ 

Koad  rather  mountainous  and  sandy  ;  good  grass  and  wood. 

Creek IT^f 

This  is  the  fourth  stream  south  of  Sevier  river,     lload  crosses 
two  streams  ;  good  camp. 

Willow  Flats 3^ 

The  water  sinks  a  little  east  of  the  road. 

Spring 25 

Good  grass  and  water. 

Sage  Creek 22^ 

Grass  poor  ;   wood  and  water. 

Beaver  Creek 5  J 

Good  wood,  writer  and  grass. 

North  Cailim  Creek Tl\ 

In  Littk'  Salt  l^ake  valley.        Clood  gra.ss  ;  no  wood.     The 
road  is  rough  and  steep  for  six  miles. 

Creek. ol 

GygJ  wood,  water,  and  grass. 


G 


H 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS.  141 

MILE3. 

Creek , g  3 

Good  wood,  water,  and  gi'ass. 

Cottonwood    Creek 12I 

Good  wood,  water,  and  grass. 

Cedar  Springs , . ,      9 

Good  camp. 

Pynte  Creek , 23 

Good  grass  one  mile  up  the  canon. 

l\oad  Springs 9 

Koad  is  rough.     Good  camp. 

Santa  Chira 16 

Road  dosrending,  and  rougli  ;  poor  grass.  From  hero  to 
Cahoon  pass,  look  out  for  Indians. 

Camp  Si)rings 171 

Two  niiloH  Itetorc  reaching  the  springs,  the  road  leaves  the 
Santa  Clara.     Good  grass. 

Rio  Virgin 2"^ '^ 

Koad  crosses  over  the  summit  of  a  mountain.  Good  road  ; 
poor  grasps. 

Rio  Virgin 39^' 

Road  runs  down  the  Rio  Virgin,  crossing  it  ten  times.  Grass 
good  down  the  river. 

Muddy  Creek 10^' 

Road  for  half  a  mile  is  very  steep  and  sandy.     Good  camp. 

Las  Vagas 52^' 

Water  is  sometimes  found  two  and  a  half  miles  west  of  tiie 
road  in  lioles,  twenty-three  miles  from  the  Muddy,  and  some 
grass  about  a  mile  from  the  road,  but,  generally,  there  is  no 
water  on  this  desert.     Good  camp  at  Las  Vegas. 

On  Vegas 5 

Road  runs  up  the  river.     Good  grass. 

Cottonwood  Spring 17 

Poor  grass. 

Cottonwood  ( irove 29| 

No  grass.  Water  and  grass  can  bo  found  four  miles  west,  by 
following  tho  old  Spanish  trail  to  a  ravine,  and  thence  to  the 
left  in  the  ravine  one  mile. 

Resting  Springs 21| 

Gooil  gra«s  and  water.  Animals  ''ould  be  rested  here  before 
entering  the  desert. 


1  . 1 


142 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


I  *, '  I  • 


•  < 

I  ■ 


:H 


I     ' 


ULES. 

Spring 7 

The  spring  is  on  the  left  of  the  road,  and  flo\v3  into  Saleratus 
creek.     Animals  must  not  be  allowed  to  drink  the  bad  water. 

Salt  Springs 14J- 

Poor  gra,«s,  and  no  fresh  water. 

Bitter  Springs 38| 

INIi^erable  water,  and  poor  gra^s.     Good  road. 

Mohave  Kiver 30| 

This  is  tlie  end  of  this  desert  of  over  eiglity  miles,  with- 
out any  good  water,  and  hardly  any  grass.  Good  road,  and 
feed  good  on  the  Mohave  river. 

On  the  Mohave 51 J 

Last  ford ;  good  grass  all  the  way  up  the  Mohave. 

Gaboon  Pass,  of  the  Sierra  Nevada 17 

At  the  summit. 

Camp 10 

Koad  bad  down  the  canon. 

Coco  Mongo  Kanch 11| 

Del  Chino  Kanch  (Williams) 10 

San  Gabriel  River 10^ 

San  Gabriel  Mission 6 

Pueblo  de  los  Angelos  (town  of  los  Angelos) 8  J 

Santa  Clara  Kiver  (on  the  coast  route) 68| 

Good  camps  to  San  Jose. 

Buena  Ventura  Mission  and  Kiver 7 J 

The  road  here  strikes  the  Pacific  shore. 

Town  of  Santa  Barbara 26 

ban  Yenness  Kiver 45 1 

At  the  Mission. 

Santa  Margarita 78^ 

Old  Mission, 

San  Miguel 282 

Old  Mission. 

San  Antonio  Kiver 24| 

Rio  del  Monterey 2G| 

Solida  Mission 15| 

At  the  ford  of  the  Rio  del  Monterey. 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


143 


-MILFS. 

San  Juan  Mission 371 

Pueblo  de  San  Jose  (town  of  San  Jose) 83 

San  Francisco 75 

The  Queen  of  the  Pacific. 

Total  distance  from  Great  Salt  Lake  City  to  Pueblo  de  los  An- 

,  gelos 772J. 

From  there  to  San  Francisco 464* 

Total  distance  from  Great  Salt  Lake  City  to  San  Francisco 1237 


ITINERARY   OF   THE   ROUTE    FROM   FORT  BRIDGER  TO  THE  "  CITY  OF  ROCKS," 

VIA  THE  "  Hudspeth's  cutoff,'' 

MILES, 

Fort  Bridger  to  Little  Muddy 9 

Water  bnicki.sh  in  pools  along  the  creek.  Very  little  gras.«(. 
A  little  sage  for  fuel,  Ruml  runs  over  a  barren  region  ;  is 
rough,  and  passes  one  steep  hill. 

IJig  Muddy  Creek 121 

The  road,  with  the  oxeeptiou  of  two  or  throe  bad  gullies,  is 
good  for  ten  miles  ;  it  then  follows  the  Big  JMuddy"  bottom, 
which  is  flat  and  boggy,  and  the  camp  is  three  niilos  above  the 
crossing.      Some  grass.     Sage  for  fuel. 

Small  Branch  of  Muddy 14^ 

Cross  the  river  in  three  miles,  at  a  bad  ford.  A  mile  above 
camp  the  grass  is  good.     Koad  generally  good.     N(»  water. 

On  Small  Creek IQi 

Koad  continues  up  the  Muddy  nine  and  a  half  miles  to  its 
head  ;  it  then  ascends  the  rim  of  the  "Great  basin,"  probably 
eight  hundred  feet  in  one  and  three  fifths  miles.  Tiie  descent 
on  the  other  side  is  about  the  same,  and  the  road  pas.^os  many 
fine  springs.  At  one  and  two  miles  back,  road  passes  many 
points  of  hills,  where  it  is  veiy  rough.  Gojd  grass  and  sage 
at  camp. 

Bear  Kiver 8^%^ 

Bad  creek  to  cross  near  camp.  Thence  to  Bear  l?ivor  valley 
the  road  is  good ;  it  then  follows  down  the  river,  crossing 
Willow  creek.     Good  camp  at  a  very  large  spring. 

Bear  River 17 

Good  road  along  the  river.  Plenty  of  -wood,  water,  and 
grass  at  all  points. 


■  -'.h  ..' 


144 


MONTANA      AS     IT     IS. 


!  '. . 


!: 


II- 

■I 


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ir'i 


WLIS. 

SmithV  Fork  and  Junction  of  SiiMette's  Cutoff 2h 

This  stream  abounds  in  trout,  weighing  from  two  to  five 
pounds.  Good  fuel  and  wood.  There  are  two  crossings  at  this 
stream :  it  is  very  bad  to  cross  wlien  high.  Tliere  was  a 
bridge  in  I'ornier  days,  but  I  believe  it  is  destroyed  now. 

Tommaw's  Fork G 

There  is  a  bad  slough  about  three  miles  back,  which  can  be 
avoided  by  going  around  on  the  hills.  There  was  a  bridge 
across  Tommaw's  tbrk  and  one  across  a  very  miry  slough, 
near  the  creek,  but  they  were  used  up  for  firewood  by  a  party 
of  men  from  Oregon,  who  were  ca\ight  here  by  snow  in  the 
winter  of  1^')9,  and  who,  not  knowing  where  they  were,  win- 
tered at  this  place,  run  out  of  provisions,  eat  up  their  horses 
and  mules,  and  in  March  started  on  snowshoes  toward  Fort 
Hall.  They  all  starved  to  <leath  but  lioone  Helm,  who  was 
hung  at  Virginia  City  by  the  \'igilance  Committee,  on  the  Mth 
January,  lH(j4. 

Tlu?re  is  a  ford  two  miles  above,  good  crossing,  good  grass, 
and  water  ;  willows  for  fuel. 

Bear  Kiver 6' 

Roiul  crosses  Grant's  Mountain,  twelve  hundred  feet  high. 
Steei)  descent ;   good  wood,  water,  ami  grass. 

Indian  Creek 23 

•     Koad  crosses  eight  fine  spring   br;inc'  es.     Indian  creek  is  a 
beautiful  stream,  abounding  in  trout.     Good  camps  all  along. 

Spring,  near  IJear  River 11 

Koad  hilly,  cro.'^sing  two  spring  branches.  Good  wood,  water, 
and  grass. 

Soda  .Springs 0| 

This  is  cmini'Mtly  a  volcanic  region,  there  being  several  extinct 
craters  and  many  curious  springs,  among  which  is  the  Soda 
spring,  Avhich  is  excellent,  and  the  Steamboat  spring,  which 
was  a  famous  curiosity  till  some  Goths  and  Vandals  of  emi- 
grants pounded  rocks  into  it  and  choked  it  up,  causing  it  to 
break  out  in  tlie  middle  of  the  river.  Two  small  creeks  come  in 
here  on  the  left  bank  of  the  upper  end.  I'inc  creek  is  a  salera- 
tus  lake. 

Port  Neuf  IJiver 19^ 

At  two  and  three  tenths  miles  the  road  leaves  Bear  river  near 
where  it  iims  through  a  canon  with  high  blurt's  on  each  side. 
Here  the  Califijrnia  and  Oregon  roads  separate.  The  Cai,  road 
called  lludsfieth's  cutotf  takes  the  left  hand  and  crosses  a  valley 
between  Bear  river  and  I'ort  xSeuf  riountains,  nine  miles.  No 
water  front  camp  to  camp.     Good  wood,  water,  and  grass. 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


145 


Jni.Fs. 

2i 


cq 


M 


MarshCreek Tf 

Ihe  crossing  is  miry  where  the  main  road  crossJs";*  but  about     "^ 
two  mdes  above  is  a  tolerable  ford.     A  road  lead.;  to  it  fiZ 

good  S'  '^*     ^"^  ''"°^ '  '"'''''  ^"^  S^'^ss  plenty" 

Bannack  Creek 

Vir^t  part  of  the  road'is'liiily  V  the  remainder  is  good.' '  Good       ' 

Malade  River 

Koad  crosses  this  stream  he'rc.' '  Good  canip  and  goo'd  road  •      ' ' 
one  hundred  and  forty  miles  from  Great  Salt  Lake  City. 

Small  Creek 29  t 

Tlie  road  ascends  a  ndge  or  mountain  through  a'canon  and  ^ 
descends  to  a  valley ;  from  Malade  to  the  summit  is  six  and  one 
tilth  miles ;  the  descent  is  three  and  seven  tenths  miles.  Koad 
then  crosses  a  vidley  eight  miles  wide  (desert)  and  strikes  a 
canon  winch  leads  to  the  top  of  a  hill  over  a  rough  road.  Plen- 
ty of  wood,  water,  and  grass  at  camp,  but »  o  waler  between  this 
and  the  Malade. 

Small  Creek oa 

Road  after  five  miles  strikes  a  ca?ion  with  a  long  but  gentleas- 
cent.  Two  miles  from  the  entrance  to  this  canon  is ''a  spring 
branch.  There  is  wood  and  some  grass  and  water  at  this 
place. 

Head  of  Spring  Branch 5 

Road  passes  through  a  canon  to  this  spring,  which  it  follows 
down  two  miles  and  a  half  to  the  junction  with  a  larger  branch 
M'hich  is  bridged.  At  about  a  mile  below,  another  branch 
comes  in.  The  feed  is  excellent  here.  Road  follows  down 
this  branch  two  miles  to 

Good  Camp 51 

Down  the  Creek n^ 

(rood  camp. 

Raft  River qi 

Good  camp,  road  crosses  the  creek  here. 

Second  Crossing ^  9 

O  •••••••••••••••(-^ 

Road  follows  up  a  valley,  crossing  several  spring  branches,  from 
last  camp  ;  good  fuel. 

Spring  Branch 10  ^- 

The  road  follows  up  the  valley  two  miles,  then  crosses  a  high 
sage  plain  eight  and  nine  tenths  miles  across  to  camp,  to  the 
left  of  the  road  in  a  beautiful  valley. 

10 


wr 


1  i 


1   .i 


!1 

t  ■; 

t       . 
I 

,'     s 
!      i 


146 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS 


im.EB. 


City  of  Kocks o\ 

Koad  passes  several  small  branches  in  three  mile>,  then  ascends 
twrougli  a  canon  to  the  lower  end  of  CUy  of  Rocks,  which  is 
a  great  natural  curiosity  ;  huge  rocks  of  various  strange  and 
fanta-tic  shapes  standing  scattered  over  a  space  of  about  three 
miles  long  and  one  wide.     Poor  grass  here  and  no  wood. 

Upper  end  of  City  of  Rocks 3 

Neither  wood,  water,  nnr  grass  here. 

Junction  of  the  Salt  Lake  Road 1 J 

At  one  and  two  fiftns  miles  from  here  a  road  eads  off  to  the 
right  to  a  S[)riiig  branch  three  miles  dist,":it,  '^'here  there  is  a 
good  can.p  near  the  foot  of  Goose  creek  moimtain.  From  this 
point  CaliCornui  travellers  can  refer  to  the  itinerary  of  tlie  route 
from  (Jreat  Salt  Lake  City  to  Sacramento  city,  California  or 
t'j  that  loading  to  Honey  lake  and  JVLirysvUle,  or  to  that 
leading  to  Yreka  and  Rogue  Jtiver  valley. 

Total  distance  from  Fort  Bridger  to  City  of  Rocks -yiiyV 

Total  distance  from  Soda  springs  to  City  of  Rocks,  known 
as  the  Hudspeth's  cutotf 143 


mXERAnV    OF  A    NEW    ROfTfi    FROM  FORT  BRIDGER  TO    CAMP  FLOYD,  OPEN'- 
ED    BY    CAl'T.   J.    H.    SIMPSON,    IN    1«58. 

un.r.s. 

From  Fort  Bridger  to  Branch  of  Jilack's  Fork G 

Wood,  water,  and  grass. 

Cedar  of  Bhilfs  of  ISTuddy 7^ 

Grains  and  wood  all  the  way  up  the  ravine  from  Muddy,  and 
V'liter  at  intervals. 

Last  water  in  raviiie  after  heaving  Muddy r^^ 

Wood,  water,  and  grass. 

East  lirnnch  of  Sulphur  Creek 51 

Wood,  water,  and  grass  ;  junction  of  Fort  Supply  road. 

Middle  Branch  of  Sulphur  Creek ^ 

Sugo,  water,  and  grass. 

West  branch  of  Sulphnr  Crock 3 

Willows,  water,  and  grass.     Spring  a  mile  below. 

East  Branch  of  Bear  River 5^ 

Wood,  water,  and  grass. 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS, 


147 


'^5 


3 


14 


»TTr 


H 


H 


Middle  nranch  of  Bear  River ..., "'' ' J' 

Wood,  water,  and  grass.  * 

Main  Branch  of  Boar  River ns 

Wood,  water,  and  graps.  ^ 

P'irst  Camp  on  White  Clay  Creek q  s 

Wood,  water,  and  grass.  * 

Wiiite  Clay  Creek . , 

Wood,  water,  and  grass.  

White  Clay  Creek ; ^ ,. 

Good  aunps  all  along  the  valley  of  Wiiite'  Clay  "c'reek. 

Commonceinont  of  Canon 3 

Wood,  water,  and  grass.  

White  Clay  Creek , 

Good  camps  all  along  the  valley  of  "t'he' White  Clay  Creek  to 
the  end  ot  lower  canon. 

Weber  River jo 

^Vood,  water,  and  grass. 

I'arley'.s  Park  IJoad q 

Wood,  water,  and  grass.     Cross  div'ule". 

Silver  Creek o  ■? 

Willows,  water,  and  gra&s.  ^ 

Timpanogos  Creek /. 

Wood,  water,  and  grass.     Cross  over  the  divide. 

Conini(>ncenient  of  Canon j 

Wood,  water,  and  grass. 

Cascade  in  Canon 211 

Good  camp  at  short  intervals  all  along  'J'impanogos  cafioii."  '  *  ^ 

Mcuth  of  Canon 1 1 

Wood  and  water.                                                        * 

Battle  Creek  Setllomont (>i 

Purchase  lorage.  *  * 

American  Fork  Settlement f]l 

Purchase  forage. 

Lehi  (town) g 

I'urchasc  forage.    Grass  near. 

Bridge  oyov  Jordan  River 2 jf 

Grami  md  water.     Wood  iu  tho  hills  one  and  a  half  miles 
distant. 


k 


!■  ":^ 


t 


'II 
-I 


!^!l' 


148 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


HIUB. 


Camp  Floyd 14 

Wood,  water,  and  grass. 

Total  distance  from  Fort  Bridger  to  Camp  Floyd 155 

Captain  Simpson  says  this  waL;on  route  is  far  superior  to  the  old 
one  in  respect  to  wood,  water,  and  grass ;  the  grade  is  also  muck 
better,  and  the  distance  about  the  same. 


ITINEHAUY  OF  SUBLETTe's  CUTOFF,  FROM  THE  JUNCTION  WITH  THE  SALT 
LAKE  UOAD,  AT  DRY  SANDY,  TO  WHERE  IT  INTERSECTS  THE  FORT 
BRIDGER   ROAD,    AT    SMITH's    FORK    OF    BEAR    RIVER. 

muss- 

From  Jimction  to  l?ig  Sandy 7 

Wood,  water,  and  grass. 

Green  Kiver      From  Big  Sandy  to  Green  River  (upper  road)  . .   44 
There  is  an  abundance  of  gra!>s  in  j)laoes  along  the  road,  but 
no  water.     Good  camp  bn  Green  river.     Groves  of  cotton- 
wood  timber  along  the  river. 

Fontenelle  Creek G 

The  road  runs  up  the  creek  ;  gooil  grass ;  willows  for  fuel. 

On  Fontenelle  Creek 4 

Good  grass  and  water  ;  willows  for  fuel. 

Small  Spring  (on  tbe  left  of  the  road) 12 

Goud  {jrass,  no  wood. 

Ham's  Fork,  of  Black's  Fork 9 

Good  wood,  WiUer,  and  grass. 

Spring  (on  the  summit  of  a  mountain)    (} 

Good  grass. 

Muddy  Creek C 

Wooil,  water,  and  grass. 

Spring  (in  Hear  river  valley) 10 

(iood  \vo(k1,  water,  and  grass. 

S-r.ith's  Fork  of  liear  KMver C 

Here  the  road  from  l''(»rt  Bridger  (o  City  of  lioeks  coiner  in, 
and  those  going  to  California  can  follow  the  itinerary  for  that 
route,  which  (hose  going  to  Oregon  can  follow  it  to  Soda 
springs,  and  from  there  toUow  the  itinerary  for  the  route  from 
Soda  springs  to  Walla  Walla  and  Oregon  City,  which  will  bo 
inserted  in  this  book. 

Total  distance  from  Dry  Sandy  to  Smith's  Fork 110 


Hiusa. 
14 


155 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS.  j^g 

ITINERARY    OP    THE    ROUTE    PROM    SODA   SPRIXOs    TO    WALLA    WALL.    AKD 
OREGON    CITV,  OREGON,    VIA   PuRT   HALL. 

From  Soda  Springs  to  Portneuf  Creek.  Tf ' 

Water  and  grass  at  two  or  three  places*  aiong  [he  iwi/but  ni 

Koss's  Fork 

Fort  Hall  Valley 

Hoad  runs  down  the  cre'ek.'  '  'oood  Vamp. ^^ 

Snake  Kiver 

Koad^  crosses  tl^"  riJer' l^lto;;; '  Spi;ndi;f  graiJ/ plenty  Vf  ^ 
Fort  Hall 

^ots''  w"  '''^''^'  ;*''"^t';'e ; "panof  iL; "bJiidi;,.; w;,;';wo  '' 

rlK.r'     ,{   r'S""'^  "''^'''   ^''«  ^   United   States  fort. 
Uood  camp  all  along  here. 

Crossing  of  Port  Neuf  Kiver jo 

Fordabl.-  except  in  time  of  hig'h*  water.' "  (iood 'wood,' wiiie,' 
and  grass.  ' 

IJannack  Creek 

I'lenty  of  wood,  water  and  grass. 

American  Falls,   of  Snake  liivcr ,0 

tJood  camp.  

Kaft  Kiver « 

Koad  rough  and  rocky.     Sage  for  fuel* ;*  grass* scarce. 

Ucnd  on  Swamp  Creek j.^ 

Grass  scarce. 

On  Sniike  Kivor 2o 

K«.ad  crosses  Swamp  and  Goose  creeks.  '  'Wood  o"*  the  hills  • 
very  little  grass. 

Kock  Creek o- 

lii.ad  crosses  one  small  creek,  and  is  very  r.  ig'h*  iind  rocky  for 
several  miles,  when  it  enters  n  sandy  region,  where  the  grass 
IS  scurce;  sage  plenty,  and  willows  on  the  creek. 

Snake  Kiver <,  j 

Koad  vrotHCB  several  srmdl  branches.  Tiiero  is  but  little' 'nuss 
except  in  narrow  patches  along  the  river  bottom. 


150 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


ill 


Si 


!    [h    ; 


»m.K9. 

Fip\iin?  Falls 26 

Road  very  crooked  and  rough,  crossing  two  small  streams. 

Snake  Kiver 29 

Kond  crosses  several  small  creeks,  but  leaves  the  main  river  to 
the  north,  and  runs  upou  r.n  elevated  plateau.  Good  grass  at 
camp. 

Snake  River  at  the  Ford 16 

Koad  very  crooked.     The  ford  is  good  in  low  water. 

Small  I^ranch   19 

Koad  crosses  Snake  river  at  last  camp,  and  follows  up  a  small 
branch,  leaving  the  river  to  the  left.  (Jood  grass.  Koad 
ascends  a  high  plateau,  which  is  kept  during  the  whole  dis- 
tance. 

Kiver  "  Aux  Rochcrs" 26 

Road  passes  hot  sjjrings,  and  is  rough  and  rocky  ;  but  at  camp 
wood,  water,  and  grass,  are  abundant. 

Small  Creek 22 

Road  crosses  two  small  branchos,  and  is  very  rough  and  rocky. 
AVot)d,  water,  aiwl  grass,  plenty. 

Boise  River 23 

Road  crosses  one  small  ''reek,  and  follows  along  the  IJoiso 
river.     Good  wood,  water,  and  grass. 

Fort  r)oise 28 

Road  follows  the  south  bank  of  lioi^-e  river  to  the  fort,  where 
road  crosses  the  river.  Good  ford  at  ordinary  s(;iges.  Grass 
good  in  tilt!  river  bottoms.  Tliis  was  a  1  Imlsotrs  Bay  Com- 
pany fort,  but  was  abandoned  about  Wn  years  ago.  The 
United  States  government  established  a  military  post  here 
in  1803,  which   "  is  still  there." 

River  "  Aux  Mathews" 20 

Good  road  ;  plenty  of  coarse  grass,  wood  and  \\atcr  ph'uty. 

Snake  River 27 

Koad  passes  over  a  ro\jgh  country.  Gras.s  scarce  and  of  a 
poor  quality.  Road  crosses  Snake  river  here;  no  ford.  'J'here 
is  a  ferry  established  here  since  the  discovery  of  the  gold  mines 
in  JJoise  basin. 

liurnt  River 20 

Road  leaves  Snake  river  and  crosses  Kurnt  river,  and  follows 
,    up  the  north  bank  to  the  camp.     'I'hc  country  n  mountainous 
ami  rough  ;  but  there  is  plenty  oi'  good  grass,  and  there  is 
wood  along  the  river. 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS 


151 


2G 


23 


20 
27 


20 


Burnt  Kiver 

Small  Branch 

inus.     It  1,  .still  rough,  but  is  getting  bettor,     (^.ood  i,vrass. 


Mll.KS. 

')0 


Powder  I?ivor.  .  .  . 


Goo,i  r„,„i :  pasj.  piontj'.' '  Thore  (..'uo  1,;;;, 'n.^i ,ii',;..i;;; ;,;;. 


i;{ 


Creek, 


lioad  passes  a  divide    crossing  soyovi^  "sn;;]]  Vtivauii/^nd  'ii      ' 
smooth,  with  plenty  of  grass  and  fuel. 


20 


21 


Creek 

Koad   crosses  one  small' Im^ch/ind' 'is 'nuiu.;. '.iJiH,"  " 'tJ.; 
grass  and  fnel  are  abundunt.  ^ 

Creek 

Boa.l  follows  down  the  creek  foV  ton  '  n".i*los"  "  il'ien  ' iuv'm  no'  •x 
small  branch    and  is  good.     There  is  plenty 'of  arJZ     u-i 
J  iiore  are  sottlen.ents  all  along  the  road  fro.ii  Anlinrn  tn  ()ro'!'n 
eityat    this  tune,  and  new  mhies  are  constaiiiiy   lain-  di^. 
covered.  -^  ^ 

Branch 

Boad  crosses  a  divide,  and  strikes' jinother  bram'h. 

Small  Branch  of  the  ITinatilla  Biver 

( iood  road,  with  plenty  of  wood  aiid'grass. 

Branch  of  the  Walla  Walla  liivcr 

^^'ood,  water,  and  grass.  "  ' 

Walla  Walla  ]?ivcr 

^Vood,  water,  and  grass. 

Columbia  KMvcr  at  Old  Fort  Walla  Walla •, 

AVooil  wat(T,  and  grass. 

Butler's  Creek 

( Jood  camp. 

Wells  Spring «« 

rjood  camp. 

Willow  Creek ]  o 

Good  camp. 

Cedar  S|)ring in 

Good  camp. 


12 


10 
IS 


10 


;)•  . 


'■ ' 


•(1 

■■r  ' 


152 


MONTANA      AS     IT     IS. 


MILES. 


'   li' 


ii 


I  fU 


t , 


-■ii'f  ■■■ 

:  Of  ^ 


John  Day's  Kiver 6 

Good  camp. 

Forks  of  Uoad 5 

No  cam{)iiig  here.     Left-hand  road  for  wagons,  and  right  for 
pack  trains.     This  itinerary  takes  the  left. 

Ouley's  camp 10 

Good  camp. 

"  Eiviere  des  Chutes"  (Kiver  of  the  Falls) 19 

Good  camp. 

Fall  River 6 

Good  camp. 

Utah's  River 10 

Good   camp. 

Riviore  des  Chutes 18 

Good  camp. 

Rivit're  des  Chutes G 

Good  camp.     Road  follows  up  the  river,  crossing  it  several 
times. 

Sand  River  Fork IG 

Good  grass  a  mile  and  a  half  to  the  left  of  the  road. 

Good  camp 8 

Royal  Hill  Camp 15 

Good  camp. 

Sandy  River 7 

liut  little  grass. 

Down  the  river 45 

Good  camp  all  the  distance. 

Oregon  City 25 

(iood  camps  all  the  way. 


Sal 


em 


/o 


Good  camps  all  the  distance. 


Totiil  distance  from  Leavenworth  to  Soda  springs 1,108 

Total  distance  from  Suda  springs  to  Oregon  City 879 


Total  distance  from  Fort  Leavenworth  to  Oregon  City 1,987 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


153 


.    10 

.    19 

,     6 

10 

18 

G 
I 

16 


ITINERARY  OP  THE  ROUTE  FROM  FORT  LFji:fEyWORTH  TO  HONEY  LAKE 
VALLEY  (east  FOOT  OF  THE  SIERRA  NErADA,  ON  THE  NOBLE  CUTOFF ), 
VIA    SAUNDERS   CUTOFF. 

UILES. 

From  Fort  Leavenworth  to  Fort  Kearney 294 

From  Fort  Kearney  to  Fort  Laramie 335 

From   Fort  Laramie  to  Gilbert's   Station   (South 

Pass) 270 

Total  distance  from  Fort  Leavenworth  to  Gilbert's 

Station    899 

For  full  particulars  of  the  route  to  this  point, 
travellers  can  refer  to  the  itinerary  of  the  route 
from  Fort  Leavenworth  to  Great  Salt  Lake  City, 

From  Gilbert's  Station  to  Aspen  Hut 3| 

Good  grass  and  water.  If  the  grass  has  been 
eaten  off  by  the  Salt  Ljike  trains,  go  to 

Long'sCreek 2\ 

Here   you  have  a  good  camp,  the  grass  on  the 

hills   being  excellent.      Willows    on    the   creek. 

fronKiiiberrs     Qi'iiking-Asp  Grovc,  a  short  distance  to  the  left, 

sttttiou.  near  which  is  some  tir  timber.     Gravel  bottom  in 

M1I.E8.  the  creek.     Good  crossing. 

7T»J|y     From  Long's  Creek  to  Clover  Creek 2-i2Jj 

Good  gniss  and  water. 

lljhs    From  Clover  Creek  to  Garnet  Creek 3^^ 

Good  grass.  Aspen  timber.  From  tliis  creek  to 
the  Sweetwater,  it  is  a  rolling  country,  with  fine 
bunch-grass.  Pine  timber  as  you  approach  the 
river. 

iGygjy     From  Garnet  Creek  to  Sweetwater  Crossing ^-i^a 

You  will  find  this  a  good  camp.  Fine  grass  and 
heavy  fir  timber  a  short  distance  up  the  creek  to 
the  right. 

17t^oV     From  Sweetwater  Crossing  to  Poor's  Creek iVVo 

Good  grnss  nnd  tine  timber  to  the  left  of  the  road, 
The   ri)ad  follows  up   this   creek  for  nine  miles. 
Good  camps  all  along. 

29t»oV     l''''0'»  Poor's  Creek  to  Little  Sandy  Creek llyVff 

Good  grass.     Plenty  of  lir  timber. 

83^jj.     From  Little  Sandy  to  Anteli»po  Meadows 4 

This  is  a  largo  grass  plain,  named  from  the  num- 
ber of  antelope  found  in  this  vicinity. 


154 


MONTANA     AS     IT     13. 


I' 

Jit 


MORS. 

34  '^~^- 


Qft  r,  o 


47    7. -5 

*'Too 


C6flV 


71    , Si  2 


TO  *i'-_ 


85 


95t^ 


From  Antelope  ^leadows  to  l>in:-IIolo  of  Bip;  Sandy. 
Tliis  is  a  large  valley,  with  plenty  of  grass  and  tir 
timber. 

From  15ig-Hole  to  Crossing  of  Big  Sandy 

Hard  gravelly  road,  with  many  steep  pitches  the 
last  one  in  particular.  To  go  down  to  the 
river  is  very  steep.  Good  grass  and  plenty  of 
wood. 

From  Big  Sandy  to  Grass  Springs 

No  wood  but  sage.     Fine  grass  and  water. 

From  Grass  Springs  to  New  Fork  of  Green  Kiver. . 
Tlie  distance  between  camps  can  be  shortened  by 
striking  towards  a  clump  of  timber  to  the  right, 
where  there  is  good  camping.  Tlien  by  following 
down  the  stream  to  the  left,  a  short  distance,  you 
strike  the  road  at  the  crossing,  which  is  good, 
Tliore  is  a  large  island  in  the  centre,  and  the 
stream  on  each  side  is  from  twenty  to  tliirty  yards 
wide.  In  the  S[)ring  it  is  from  three  to  four  feet 
deep  in  each  channel,  and  you  had  better  raise 
your  wagon-beds  by  setting  blocks  on  the  bolsters. 
'J'lie  feed  is  good,  and  there  is  timber  on  the  island 
and  western  bank. 

From  New  Fork  to  Green   IJiver 

From  Green  river  crossing,  which  is  fordable,  ex- 
cept in  time  of  very  liigh  water,  you  can  strike 
soutii,  and  in  four  miles  come  to  Piney  creek  near 
its  mouth,  where  there  are  good  grass  and  timber. 
This,  however,  can  only  be  done  late  in  the  season, 
for  in  the  spring  it  is  marshy,  and  you  had  better 
keep  the  main  road. 

From  Green  Kiver  to  White  Clay  Civek 

Tiiere  is  plenty  of  alkali  on  its  banks — but  clear 
running  water  in  the  creek,  which  is  small  and 
without  even  u  willow  along  its  banks,  nor  is  there 
any  grass. 

From  White  Clay  Creek  to  liitter-Root  Creek 

Good  grass  and  water,  with  large  willows  for  fuel. 
This  is  a  Hue  large  stream  twenty-live  or  thirty 
yards  wide ;  swift  and  shallow,  with  gravel 
bottom. 

From  Bitter-Uoot  Creek  to  North  Fork  of  the  Piney. 
Jlolling  country,  covered  with  sage-brush.  Largo 
willows  on  the  creek ;  and  one  mile  to  the  left,  lir 
and  Cottonwood  timber, 


MTUfi. 

1   an 


8tMV 


1  fi  "^  R 


T     ,'>  1 


8 


''^^^ 


lOfW 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


155 


Mrua. 


^(Ar 


OS-rVcr     From  North  Fork  to  IMkl.Uo  Fork  of  Piney  Canon,     s""'^* 
Sage-bru.sh  country  ;  grass  along  the  crocks. 

99yV\T     Fi'om  Middle  Fork  to  Mouth  of  Piney  Canon 1  r.4 

Piney  creek  is  a  good-sized  creek  of  pure  icQ-c^'old        ^  ""^ 
water  running  very  swift  over  a  rocky  ])ed.     The 
canon,  which  is  about  seven  miles  long,  is  from 
one  (luai-ter  to  one  and  a  half  miles  wide ;  there 
is  tolerable  grass  in  the  cailon. 

10"to%     From  ISIouth  of  Canon  to  Piney  Fort 7  ui 

The  road  through  the  canon  crosses  the  creek  eigiit  ^  "  '^ 
times  ;  all  good  crossing.  You  will  find  sevend 
good  camps  in  the  canon  between  its  mouth  and 
Piney  fort  You  had  better  lay  over  at  Piney  fort 
and  recruit  your  stock,  as  you  have  a  block-house 
and  corral,  while  the  country  beyond  is  thickly 
timbered,  which  will  render  it  necessary  for  you 
to  move  as  rapidly  as  jjossible  over  to  {-'alt  n .er. 
It  is  also  necessary  to  keep  careful  watch  of  yo  ^r 
stock,  to  prevent  their  straying  in  the  woods  d 
becoming  lost.  It  is  over  thirty  miles  through 
this  timber.  After  leaving  Piney  fort  the  x-oad 
passes  over  a  ridge,  and  crosses  a  small  crcjk  in 
half  a  mile  ;  thence  across  a  bad  mountain  0  La 
Barge  creek. 

112-j7j^^     From  Piney  Fort  to  Labarge  Creek .5  i  :> 

This  to  a  large  creek  running  very  swift  over  a 
rocky  bed.  Tlie  road  follows  up  the  creek  foi-  half 
a  mile,  then  crosses  and  passes  along  a  low  ridge 
for  a  short  distance,  where  it  strikes  crossing  of 
Small  creek. 

ll'''^To*V     From  Labarge  to  crossing  of  Small  Creek 2^'^-''- 

"^"^''WA     From  Small  Creek  to  another  Small  Creek ^4^-1^ 

Good  grass  and  wood. 

11'3't^A     From  Small  Creek  to  Spring  Branch  in  valley 1  i-iL. 

ll^ToiT     From  Si)ring  Bnnich  to  Labarge  Valley ho 

Good  gniss  on  hills  to  the  right. 

ll^-jYV     From    Labarge   Valley  to  junction  of  Labarge  and 

Spring  Creek It  A 

The  road  from  this  point  lies  over  a  mountainous 
country,  but  is  not  rocky. 

122,-\3j     Fi-om  Spring  Creek  to  Branch  of  Smith's  Fork  of 

Bear  Kiver 0  m 

1  ou  cross  over  a  ridge  of  mountams  before  you 


156 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


MILES. 


MILES. 


Im 


t  'f 


1^1    00 


133t7^<\; 


137J5„o_ 


i^Sj\\ 


14Wo 


l^'J^o'o 


152t1^ 


Hi 

-■  i; 


158t13«,- 


IGOv^J',- 


reach  this  branch  ;  you  then  go  down  one  branch 
and  up  another,  one  mile  and  three  fourtlis,  to 
camp.  The  grass  is  tolerably  good  among  the  tim- 
ber. 

From  Branch  of  Smith's  Fork  to  Smith's  Fork 7^^% 

A  narrow  valley,  nearly  covered  with  thick  wil- 
lows.    Some  grass  on  the  hills. 

Down   Smith's  Fork  to  Crossing  of  Little  Beaver 

Creek 2y^ 

The  road  crosses  the  creek  four  times,  and  there  are 
some  bad  mud-holes.     Some  grass  on  the  liills. 

From  Little  Beaver  Creek  to  Spring,  near  top  of 

Mountain 1  ^SJI^ 

A  Ultle  grass,  plenty  of  wood. 

From  Spring  to  Head  of  Salt  River  Valley 3yV,V 

Some  grass  and  plenty  of  wood. 

From  Head  of  Valley  to  Crossing  of  Salt  River. . .      lyoTJ 
Gravel  bottom.     Some  grass  and  plenty  of  wood. 
The  road  follows  down  the  valley. 

From  Crossing  of  Salt  River  to  Crossing  of  Small 

Creek 2f\o^ 

The  valley  widens,  and  is  covered  with  as  good 
bunch  grass  as  there  is  in  the  world.  This  is  the 
most  beautiful  valley  I  have  yet  seen  in  the  Roci 
mountains.  The  Indians,  however,  say  that  it  u 
very  cold  in  the  winter,  and  that  the  snow  falls 
very  deep.  There  is  plenty  of  tine  trout  in  the 
river  and  its  branches. 

From  Spring  Creek   to   Second   Crossing   of  Salt 

i^'ver S^s^V 

Good  crossing.  Glorious  grass  and  water  ;  plenty 
of  wood. 

From   Second   Crossing   to   West   Branch   of  Salt 

^I^iver i^ 

Good  grass  and  wood,  but  rather  poor  water. 
Tlie  valley  at  this  point  is  about  four  miles 
wide. 

From  West  liranch  to  Smoke  Creek (^-^ch 

At  the  mouth  of  the  canon,  road  crosses  the 
crook  ani  enters  a  cauon  cne  mile  and  a  quarter 
long. 

From  Smoke  Creek  to  Red  Willow  Creek 2 

Good  grass,  wood  convenient. 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS.  157 

MILES. 

rnisa.  „ 

163 Jt«      From  Red  Willow  Creek  to  Salt  Bottom o 

"  Some  salt  springs  deposit  large  quantities  of  salt 

here  (for  farther  particulars  see  Note  47).  Some 
grass.  Here  the  road  leaves  the  valley  and  as- 
cends a  bench,  crossing  several  spring  branches. 

167^__«^     From  Salt  Bottom  to  Kinikinick  Canon 4 

Canon  one  mile  lorig,  cross  creek  twice. 

170tAA.     From  Kinikinick  Canon  to  Noon  Creek ^-j-^ 

*         Before  reaching  this  creek  you  cross  seven  sniall 
spring  branches  and  two  small  creeks. 

172y'-»-     From  Noon  Creek  to  Flat  Valley  Creek 2^*^^ 

'  Here  the  country  opens  out  into  low  rolling  ridges 

covered  with  grass,  and  no  timber. 

174  7_4^     From  Flat  Valley  Creek  to  another  Creek l-[^o 

""'         Good  grass  all  along  here,  but  little  wood. 
176t3-7_     From  Small  Cresk  to  Creeks  in  Large  Grass  Val-        ^^ 

ley l"o  t> 

'J'here   is   a   lake  in  this  valley  known  as  John 
Gray's  lake,  which  is  several  miles  long,  and  is 
marshy  around  the  edges ;  it  is  the  home  of  mj  riads 
of  ducks  and  geese,  but  the  sliores  are  so  marshy 
that  it  is  dillicult  to  get  within  reach  of  them. 
You   travel  along  the  valley  on  the  edge  of  tlie 
lake,  crossing  two  slues.     At  the  end  of  the  v-alley 
you  come  to  a  creek  which  is  a  branch  of  Otter 
Creek. 
187  v^-^-     From  Large  Valley  Creek  to  brunch  of  Otter  Spring 

Creek ^"i '^" 

Fine  fi^rass  but  not  much  wood. 

1  o^  «  2_     From  Branch  to  Otter  Spring  Creek ^-t\ys 

^""         Good  grass  and  water,  plenty  of  wood  in  some 
quaking-asp  groves,  to  right  of  road. 

19G  4  7_     From  Otter  Spring  Creek  to  Spring-in-Valley Ty^^'V 

"^^  "         Tlie  water  is  brackisli,  good  grass,  no  wood. 
197  34      From    Spring-in-Valley   to    Branch    of    Blackfoot        ^^ 

Creek ; T^^*^ 

Good  grass  and  water,  but  no  wood. 

1 00^  »-     From  Branch  to  Blackfoot  Creek  at  the  Ford  .....      l^J'^ 
^^'"         Tlie  crossing  is  good,  tine  grass,  but  not   much 
wood  i  you  ascend  to  a  bench  here,  and  leave  tlio 
river  to  your  right. 


158 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


Mil 


I' 


ri 


ilfi! 


MTLER. 


204^g^ 
20S^Vo- 

210,Vo 


215T^=ff 

217W\> 

218t\,V 
228t^J^j 

229t4,«^ 
230tVo 

342tVo- 


HILEH. 


244t«o 
252xV(r 


From  Blackfoot  Creek  to  Granite  Creek 3^^^ 

Good  grs\ss,  willows  on  the  creek,  no  other  wood. 

From  Granite  Creek  to  crossing  of  the  Same 1  Wo 

From  crossing  to  Point  where  the  Road  leaves  Black- 
foot  River ^^^u 

From  where  Road  leaves  IJlaokfoot  to  Thistle  Creek,     l/o'^j 
Good  grass,  road  crosses  two  small  creeks;    no 
wood  but  there  is  a  small  grove  of  quaking  asps 
one  mile  to  the  right. 

From  Thistle  Creek  to  Head  of  Port  Neuf  River 4^^ 

Quaking  Asp  grove  and  good  grass  at  the  crossing. 

From  Head  of  Port  Neuf  to  Junction  of  this  and  Soda 

Springs  Road ^^^s 

From  Junction  of  Roads  to  Entrance  of  Canon. .  .  .      1t\j^ 
Good  grass  but  not  much  wood  ;  a  spring  branch 
runs  through  the  canon  which  is  three  fourtlu^  of  a 
mile  long. 

From  Entrance  of  Canon  to  Small  Stream  coming  in 

from  Left ^^''i^ 

From  Small  Stream  to  Two  Small  Streams,  Branches 

of  Ross  Fork dj\'',j 

Good  grass,  but  very  little  wood. 

From  Two  Small   Streams  to  Junction  with  Sub- 
lette's Cutoff j%\ 

Cross  small  branch  in  one  eighth  of  a  mile. 

From  Junction  of  Roads  to  Ross'  Fork lyViJ 

'J  olerable  good  feed,  and  plenty  of  wood.  Road 
crosses  the  creek  and  enters  a  canon  about  one 
and  a  half  miles  long. 

From  Ross'  Fork  to  Snake  River  Valley,  and  Forks  of 

Road U^^Ja 

Some  grass  and  willows  for  wood.  Take  the  left- 
hand  road  to  bridge  on  Ross'  fork  ;  the  right  goes 
to  old  Fort  Hall,  which  is  now  deserted  and  in 
ruins. 

From  Forks  of  Road  to  Bridge  on  Ross'  Fork ^fjh 

Good  road  and  tolerable  grass ;   willows  for  wood. 

From  Bridge  on  Ross'  Fork  to  Bridge  on  Port  Neuf 

River 8 

Fort  Hall  in  sight  to  the  right.  Port  Neuf  moim- 
tains  to  the  left.  Fine  grass,  but  little  timber  in  the 
valley. 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


159 


1  0  0 


ToTT 


HUES. 

"•'^Too 


253^7-% 


263t''-2- 


274t'a_ 


27GT-y, 


To  0 


280 


*''-'^l  0  0 


288^Vo- 
291^^0^- 

299t\«,- 
802tV(j 


UTLE8, 

From  Tort  Neuf  Bridge  to  Stream  in  Port  Neuf 

Valley ,2J3_ 

From  Stream  to  a  Slough -jAj-j 

From  Slough  to  Koad  irom  F'ort  Hall j%\ 

From  where  Fort  Hall  road  comes  in   to  where  it 

turns  off  again,  going  to  Salt  Lake ^ixf'ii 

Good  level  road  all  along  here. 

From  Fort  Plall  and  Salt  Lake  J?oad  to  Bannack 

Cieek 6r%% 

Good  grass ;   willows  for  wood. 

From  liannack  Creek  to  Irvine's  Old  Fort ^tv% 

From  Irvine's  Old  Fort  to  Big  Spring   ^i^-oii 

At  all  of  the  ahove  points  you  touch  Snake  river, 
and  have  good  grass  and  wood.  This  spring  is 
is  aixtut  thirty  feet  wide,  and  is  found  by  innu- 
merable small  ones. 

From  Big  Spring  to  American  Falls  of  Snake  Biver.     l-iVo 
You  keep  along  the  river,  and  one  mile   farther 
on,  cross  a  deep  ravine.     1'imbcr  along  here. 

From  American  Falls  to  Crossing  of  a  Creek ^tot; 

From  Crossing  of  a  Creek  to  Cro.«sing  of  another 

Creek li^ 

From  Crossing  of  Creek  to  a  Bavine -^q^ 

Bocky  island  here  in  the  river ;  fine  grass  ;  some 
fir  timber.  In  the  next  three  miles  you  cross 
three  ravines,  with  timber  and  grass. 

From  Bocky  Island  Bavine  to  Crossing  of  a  Creek.     5^^^,% 
Timber  and  grass.     You  cross  a  ravine  in  half  a 
mile. 

From  Crossing  of  a  Crock  to  Fall  Creek 2yVj 

Steep  bank  on  the  west  side  ;  timber  and  grass. 

From  Fall  Creek  to  where  the  Boad  leaves  Snake 

Biver -rilTr 

Here  the  Oregon  road  turns  off  down  Snake  river, 
while  the  California  river  bears  to  the  right. 

From    where    Road    leaves   Snake   Biver   to   Baft 

Biver C^Vxr 

•  First  crossing  ;  good  grass  ;  willows  for  wood. 

From  First  Crossing  to  Second  Crossing 3^%"^ 

Good  grass. 


160 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IF 


nil 


mLES. 


32GtV.t 
320tV^ 

*>Qn  9  8_ 

341tP^^7 
344-^^0 

34ot^ 


HILKH. 


357fjt,T 


SG4tb»Tr 


38GVbV 


398i^>^, 


404^^'^ 


423 


From  Second  Crossing  to  Third  Crossing HiViT 

Grass  and  willows. 

From  Third  Crossing  to  Junction  with  Hudspeth's 

Cutoff St^^V 

From  Junction  to  Crossing  of  Small  Creek ^-^Jo 

Grass  and  willows.  Hoad  crosses  two  small 
streams  within  next  half  a  mile. 

From  Crossing  of  Small  Creek   to   Forks  of  Raft 

^''^^> ;: 2t%^ 

Good  grass.     Willows  for  wood. 

From  the  F'orks  to  Crossing  of  Creek IO-j^tmi 

Got  d  grass  ;  no  timber. 

From  Crossing  to  Small  Creek 2 

From  Small  Creek  to  Entrance  of  Kooky  Canon. . .      2-i^y'^j 
This  canon  is  three  quarters  of  a  mile  lo;ig. 

From  Entrance  of  canon  to  "  City  of  Kocks" l-i^tni 

Good  grass  and  camn  ground  on  a  small  spring 
branch  ;  for  the  first  the  emigration,  but  no  grass 
towards  the  last,  About  two  miles  faither  on  is 
the  junction  of  this  and  the  Salt  Lake  road. 

From  "  City  of  Rocks"  to  Gn...ite  Springs 12 

A  round  granite  "  butte,"  and  north  of  it  good 
grass  and  wafer.  The  road  from  here  to  the  top 
of  the  mountain  is  good,  but  great  care  mut  be 
taken  going  down  to  Goose  creek. 

From  Granite  Springs  to  Goose  Creek ^tViT 

Keep  your  eyes  skinned  hero  for  Indians,  lielow 
the  ruiid  is  a  good  camp,  and  all  the  wa)'  up 
Goose  creek. 

From  wiiere  you  strike  Goose  Creek,  up  the  Creek.   2'2^^(^^ 
Good  grass  and  water  at  the  head  of  Goose  creek, 
and  a  camp  road  leads  to  the  N.  W.  to  some  sj)rings 
in  a  large  op'Uj  space,  with  bottom-grass.     liuncii- 
grass  is  .«carco. 

From  Head  of  Goose  Creek  to  Kock  Sjjring 12  fV^ 

Wat<'r  good,  but  grass  only  for  the  llrst  of  the  emi- 
gration, itaiher  bud  hill  to  ascend  on  leaving 
(iroosc  creek. 

From  Kock  Spring  to  Cold  Spring ^^\ 

Deep  wells,  with  some  grass.  IJunch  grrss  on  the 
hills. 

Fronj  Cold  Spring  to  Hot  Siirlng  Creek IH^Va 

This  is  in  the  upper  part  of  Thousur''-Spring  vni- 


i 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


161 


waja. 


mug. 


ley.  About  nine  miles  from  Cold  Spring  is  abun- 
dant grass,  and  a  small  spring  close  to  the  road. 
The  other  water  in  sloughs  contains  alkali,  and 
avoid  using  it.  Hot  Spring  creek,  with  its  upper 
part,  has  good  water  and  grass.  There  are  a  tew 
rocky  places  on  the  dividing  ridge  this  side  of 
Humboldt  wells. 

437^^*0     1^J'<^>«"  Il^t  Spring  Creek  to  Humboldt  Wells 14^^^% 

Good  water,  good  bottom,  and  bunch  grass.  A 
hot  spring  and  some  rocky  places  and  crossings  in 
Humboldt  canon. 

^•iliVo     t'l'om   Humboldt   Wells  to    a   point    in   Humboldt 

C'auon 4 

P^rom  this  place  the  road  runs  along  the  river  to 
Lawson's  Meadows,  only  leaving  it  sometimes  to 
avoid  canons  or  soft  bottoms.  Grass  is  abundant, 
and  the  running  water  good ;  but  care  must  be 
taken  that  the  animals  do  not  drink  out  of  sIoujiIls, 
which,  in  the  latter  part  of  the  season,  contain 
alkali.  Horses  and  mules  are  somotimcs,  fiom 
the  use  of  this  water,  subject  to  a  peculiar  dis- 
ease, causing  a  swelling  of  the  neck  and  breast. 
The  best  preventative  is  to  put  rowels  in  the  breast, 
jiiid  keep  the  wounds  open.  If  any  signs  of  swell- 
ing appears,  biu'n  with  an  iron  three  or  fo>  cars, 
deep  and  long,  along  the  neck  and  breast,  and  keep 
them  open  with  blistering  plaster.  I  was  assured 
by  many  mountaineers  tha(.  this  is  a  safe  prevent- 
ative and  sure  euro      Th«  y^ad  is  good. 

4(i4^»yV     From  Hund)oldt  Canon  to  Bishop's  Creek 22^V(T 

CJood  crossing. 

4^'>Toi7     I'^fom  r.ishop's  Creek  to  North  Fork  of  the  Hum- 

bohit 20i»ifV 

Good  crossing. 

riny^x^     From  North  Fork  to  Fremont's  Canon 32 

Gravel  bottom,  but  rocks  in  bed  of  the  river. 

52«>Wij  From  Fremont's  Canon  to  IMagpio  Creek 0^^^ 

Jleforo  crossing  IMaupie  creek,  a  small  stream  has 
to  by  forded.  Both  have  grass  and  good  water. 
The  road  here  leaves  'ho  river  and  pa3.sos  ovtu'  the 
lulls  to  Crravelly  ford.  There  are  some  springs 
clo.so  to  tlio  road  among  tlie.so  hills,  and  in  I  ho 
early  p:irt  of  the  season,  good  grass  and  plenty 
of  it.  The  road  has  some  steep  and  roiky  places, 
nnd  sonic  steep  grades  going  down  to  G  ravelly  ford. 

u 


f    ! 


■■■■Si 


'•i 


rl 


162 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


VILEa. 


§' 


m 


I. 


■!  '.  ( 


V    3 


"To  0 


613iVd 


019.'^,+ 


loo 


636  iVj 


680-.'''  ■* 


685^-J, 


GOTiiJ, 


From  Mngpie  Creek  to  Grfivelly  Ford 

Grazing  ground  up  and  down  the  river,  with  good 
grass  atul  wood.  The  Humboldt  runs,  about  five 
miles  farther  down,  through  a  canon  ;  tlieroforo, 
the  road  goes  over  the  hills.  Look  sharp  i'or  In- 
dians all  along  here,  for  many  a  poor  emigrant 
has  been  killed  in  this  vicinity. 

From  Gravelly  Ford  over  the  Hills 


KtUES. 

1  o  n(j_ 


From  Camp  to  Stony  Point 

Good  road,  good  grass,   and  wood.     Indians  are 
always   in    this   neigiiborhooil  huntinji;  and   fish- 


10 
20 


ing; 


therefore,  keep  awake. 


From  Stony  Point  to  Foot  Hills  on  the  Pi-Utah 

Line 

Fine  springs  on  the  hillside,  with  good  grass. 
The  valli'y  to  the  north  is  covered  wi».i  sage-brush 
and  scanty  grass.  IJefore  rej'ching  the  hills,  you 
pass  some  sloughs  with  bad  water. 

From  Foot  Hills,  over  the  Hills 

Good  road.  This  is  now  the  country  of  the  Pi- 
IJtcs,  a  friendly  tribe,  .eeldom  committing  depreda- 
tions ;  but  it  is  well  to  keep  an  eye  on  them,  for 
Indians  arc  "  mighty  onsartain." 

From  over  the  Hills  to  Hend  on  Kiver    at  Tutt's 

Meadows 

At  the  bend  a  small  branch  comes  in.  The  lower 
crossing  is  sometimes  muddy  ;  the  upper  is  good. 

From  Tutt's  Meadows  to  Lassen's  Meadows,  some- 
times called  Little  Meadows 

Abundant  grass  both  on  the  upper  and  lower  part. 
1  advise  all  emigrants  to  rest  hero  a  few  days,  and 
to  cut  grass  and  take  along  for  though  water  may 
be  hud  from  here  to  Honey  Lake,  the  grass  in  the 
latter  part  of  tlic  season  is  dried  up  and  scarce. 

From  Upper  to  Lower  Knd  of  Lassen's  Mt'adows.  . 
Glorious  camping  places  along  here  lor  tired, 
w«)rnont  stock.  It  is  boat  to  leave  iho  meadows 
taking  the  right  hand  road  and  go  to  Antelope 
springs  to  camp. 

From  Lassen's  Meadows  to  Antelope  SprinjiB 

Kxcellent  water,  but  grass  is  scarce,  and  sage- 
chickens  plenty.  The  road  is  good  over  rolling 
hillH  to  Kabbit  spring  wells. 


38 


77 


44 


4  no 
*loO 


12 


r 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


163 


WIJRS. 

712,7  n_ 


731-^*^ 


7401^0^ 
75G,^'V 

772t^»^ 


782  iVo 
708,-*^ 


MaES. 

From  Antelope  Springs  (o  Rabbit  Spring  Wells 15  t-;,. 

Very  Utile  grass,  water  in  wells  for  cooking  pur-  "" 

pesos,  but  stock  has  to  be  watered  with  l)iickets ; 
there  is  not  sufficient  for  a  large  train.  The  road 
is  good  to  Hot  spring  from  here.  A  short  dis- 
tance fi-om  here  the  road  forks ;  the  right  hand 
one  going  to  Kogue  I?iver  valley,  Oregon,  and  to 
Yreka,  California  ;  the  left,  which  this  itineraiy 
follows,  goes  to  Honey  Lake  valley. 

From  Rabbit  Spring  AVcIls  to  Hot  Spring 18-j\,\ 

There  is  a  little  wire  grass  here.  Animals  may 
be  watered  here.  There  is  a  beautiful  road  from 
here  lo  Cxranite  creek,  over  the  perfectly  level 
bottom  of  Mud  lake;  this  part  of  whicii  is  dry, 
except  iti  the  spring.  The  hot  spring  is  on  the 
eastern  edge  of  the  lake. 

From  Hot  Spring  to  Granite  Creek l^i^'V 

Good  cold  water,  and  good  grass  along  up  the 
caiion  of  the  creek. 

From  Granite  Creek  to  Large  lioiling  Spring l-jVfr 

Remarkable  for  its  great  size  and  heat.  Very 
little  grass,  and  no  wood. 

From  Large  Hoiling  Spring  to  Deep  Hole  Springs. .     7-j2,,f^j 
A    pertL'Ct    oasis    in    the   desert.      Large   running 
springs  of   pure  ice-cold   water.     Abundance  of 
grass  and  wood. 

From  Deep- Mole  Springs  to  Buffalo  Springs IG 

Good  water  in  <leep  holes,  grass  in  the  nei'^libor- 
hood,  very  little  wood.  From  hero  the  road  goes 
over  rolling  hills  and  blutK-»,  with  some  sandy 
places,  to  Rush  valley  and  creek. 

From  Hutfalo  Si)rings  to  Hush  Valley Q.eo 

In  the  upper  part  of  Rush  valhy  there  is  good  water 

and   grass,  and  clover  waist-high,  but  ihero  is  no 

wood.     'I'liero  are  a  few  rocky  jihu^os. 

Through  Rush  Valley  to  INlud  Si)ring9 iG-j^fl^ 

Good  grass  but  no  wood. 

From  Mud  Springs  to  Honey  Lake  Valley 17 

Very  rocky  road  after  leaving  Mud  ."Springs,  but 
the  latter  part  of  it  is  good.  This  valley  is  now 
thickly  settled. 


',  J, 

• 

mmmm 


«Mi 


li'; 


164  MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 

RECAriTUI.A.TION. 

H11JM. 

PVom  Fort  Leavenworth  to  Gilbert's  Station 899 

From  Gilbert's  Station  to  Honey  Lake  Valley. . . .   Sloytiy 

Total  distance 1714 

From  Lassen's  Meadows  to  Carson  Valley,  via  the 
Sink  of  the  Humboldt 175^ 


I 


M 


■  I  i 

7  I       !l 


ITINERARY  OF  THE  ROUTE  FROM  LASSEn's  MEADOWj:,  ON  THE  HrMBOI.DT, 
TO  R0GI:E  lUVER  VALLEY,  OREGON,  AND  THENCE  TO  YRKKA,  CALI- 
FORNIA. 

Mll.ra. 

From  Lassen's  Meadows  to  Antelope  Springs 12 

iJoad  leaves  Huniboldt  and  takes  a  northwesterly  courf^e  to 
these  cp'rinps,  which  are  g(jod  water,  but  it  is  a  sage-brush 
country  without  nnich  grass. 

From  Antelope  Springs  to  Kabbit  Spring  "Wells I^t^oxt 

Very  little  grass,  water  in  wells  for  cooking  purposes,  but 
8to;'k  hits  to  be  watered  with  buckets,  and  there  is  not  enough 
for  a  large  train.  The  roail  is  good  to  IJlaek  Hock  spring, 
passing  along  the  hard  and  smooth  shore  of  Mud  lake.  The 
road  is  very  dim  along  here,  and  the  country  is  a  perfect 
desert,  without  good  water  or  umch  grass,  for  about  sixty 
miles. 

From  Kabbit  Spring  Wells  to  lllack  l?ock  Spring 38.^ 

Koad  level  and  hard  after  leaving  Jiabbit  Spring  wells,  with 
but  little  vegetation.  In  fourteen  miles  pass  springs,  but  the 
water  is  not  good.  Two  miles  faither  on  the  road  passes  u 
.slough  which  is  dillicult  to  cross  ;  the  water  is  not  gooil,  but 
may  be  fziven  to  stock  in  small  (piantitic''.  In  live  miles  from 
here  the  road  pa?ses  "  Black  IJock,"  mentioned  by  Colonel 
Fremont,  in  his  trip  from  the  Columbia  river  to  California, 
in  iHia-'l. 

From  Hlaok  Ihuk  S|)riugs  to  Mountain  Kill 20J^ 

Good  water  and  bunch  grass  in  the  vicinity.  Three  miles  from 
IJIack  Kock  are  boiling  .'•j)rings,  very  hot,  but  good  water 
when  cooled.  Grass  prcity  good.  Five  miles  (tu'lhcr  on  the 
road  passes  n  beautiful  creek  of  pure  water  with  good  grass. 

From  Mv)untain  Kill  to  IVIarshy  Lake 5^ 

From  Marshy  Lake  to  High  Kock  Canon lOJ 

This  cafion  is  twenty-tive  miles  long,  with  wild  and  curious 
B(H'nery  ;  road  crosses  the  creek  frecpienlly,  and  the  mud  is  bad  ; 
ill  ihu  uutumn,  huwover,  the  ruud  la  good. 


T 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


165 


In  Higli  Rock  Canon 14 1 

Small  Croek 

liejvutiful  country,  with  the  greatest  abiuKhmce  of  wood,  water 
and  grass. 

From  Small  Creek  to  Pine  Grove  Creek   '2o\ 

Koad  passes  over  an  interesting  country,  well  supplied  with 
wond,  water,  and  grass,  and  passes  around  the  south  end  oi  a 
salt  lake. 

From  Pine  Grove  Creek  to  West  Slope  of  Sierra  Nevada 18^ 

The  road  passes  over  the  mountain,  wliich  is  steep  hut  not 
rocky  ;  then  descends  to  a  small  stream  of  good  water,  which 
runs  into  Goose  lake ;  good  grass  and  fuel ;  look  out  for  tlie 
Indians  as  they  arc  warlike  and  treacherous  here. 

From  West  Slope  to  East  Shore  of  Goose  Lake 7| 

An  excellent  cami). 

From  Fast  to  West  Slioro  of  Goose  Lake lOj 

'i'his  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  fresh  water,  and  it  is  the  home 
during  the  spring  and  summer  of  innumerahle  water-fowls. 

From  West  Shore  of  Goose  Lake  to  Sh)ugh  Springs 10  J 

Tlie  road  passes  over  a  very  rocky  divide  covered  with  loose 
vulcanic  debris,  very  hard  for  animals,  and  wearing  to  their 
feet ;   they  should  be  well  shod  before  attempting  the  passage. 

From  Slough  Springs  to  Marshy  liake 18| 

The  road  is  ditficult  for  wagons. 

From  Marshy  I^ake  to  Clear  Lake 15 

A  beautiful  lake  of  pure  water,  with  good  grass  around  its 
{shores. 

From  Clear  Lake  to  the  East  Shore  of  llhctt's  Lake 2o\ 

Road  tolerable  over  a  rolling  rocky  oountry  between  lakes. 
The  roail  passes  along  the  shore  of  Tule  lake  for  a  wliort  dis- 
tance, then  leaves  it  and  crosses  Lost  river  on  a  natural  l»riilge, 
wliich  is  a  smooth  solid  ledge  of  rock,  running  across  the  river 
with  only  from  one  to  two  feet  of  water  rui\ning  over  it,  al- 
though the  river  is  of  very  great  depth  above  and  below. 
What  makes  it  still  more  singular  is,  that  the  natural  bridge 
ia  in  the  centre  of  a  valley  from  ten  to  fifteen  miles  wide,  and 
that  no  lu'd-rock  appears  in  the  banks  of  tiie  river,  or  any- 
where near  the  river.  This  river,  which  has  no  perceptible 
current,  exce[)t  at  the  bridge,  coimecla  by  a  tortuous  route 
Clear  lake  with  Tule  lake.  The  road  leaves  Lost  river  ai\d 
crosses  a  range  of  hills  to  Hhett's  lake,  which  is  better  known 
us  Litllo  Klamath  lake.     1'hcrc  is  uo  wood  along  hero. 


^mmmm 


166 


MONTANA      AS     IT     IS. 


1^   !  «' 


i'  ^ 


iriLEa. 

From  East  to  West  Shore  of  Rhett's  Lnke 19 

Plenty  of  wood,  water,  and  grass  along  this  road  henceforth. 
About  halfway  between  liere  and  last  camp,  on  a  small  spring 
creek,  putting  into  Khett's  lake,  and  literally  full  of  trout,  is 
the  folks  of  the  road :  the  left  hand  one  going  to  Yreka,  Cal., 
and  the  right,  which  keeps  down  the  creek,  going  to  Kogue 
IJiver  valley  and  Jacksonville  in  Oregon.  It  is  about  eighty 
miles  from  the  forks  of  the  road  to  Yreka,  with  a  good  road, 
and  good  wood,  water,  and  grass.  Look  out  for  Indians  all 
th  igh  this  country,  for  they  have  killed  many  emigrants  in 
tin    =  gone  by,  in  the  region  round  about  these  lakes. 

PVom  West  Shore  of  Khett's  Lake  to  Klamath  River 

The  road  leaves  the  lake  and  enters  the  forest  and  mountains. 
Good  grass  and  water  at  or  near  the  summit  of  the  divide. 
Tlie  road  is  tolerable  good.  The  ford  is  good,  except  during 
time  of  high  water. 

From  Klamath  River  to  Summit  Meadows 15^ 

The  road  passes  over  high  mountains  and  through  lofty  pine 
trees.  The  camp  is  on  the  summit  of  the  Siskiyou  mountains. 
Good  wood,  water,  and  grass. 

From  Summit  Meadows  to  Western  Slope 14  J 

Rough  roads. 

From  Western  Slo{)e  to  Rogue  River  Valley lOj 

Tiie  road  descends  into  the  settlements  in  six  miles,  when  there 
is  a  lovely  I'ertile  valley,  well  settled  with  fiu'mers. 

To  Fort  Lane 23| 

Near  "  Table  Rock,"  on  Rogue  River,  eight  miles  from  Jack- 
sonville, dragoon  post. 

From  Fort  Lane  to  Camp  in  Rogue  River  Valley 22 1 

(jlood  camps  all  along. 

To  Point  in  the  Siskiyon  Mountains 18 

Road  crosses  the  Siskiyon  mountains,  and  is  diilicult  for 
wagons. 

To  Yreka 24 

This  is  a  nourishing  mining  city. 

From  Yreka  to  Fort  J(mes 12 

This  is  an  infantry  post  in  Scott's  valley. 

From  Fort  Jones  to  Scott's  Mountain 20 

Good  camp  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain  valley.  Is  settled  all 
along.  Trail  passes  over  the  muuntuin,  but  it  is  impuusublo 
for  wagons. 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS, 


167 


From  Scott's  Mountain  to  Shasta  City 90 

Good  grass,  wood,  and  water  along  the  road. 

From  Shasta  City  to  Sacramento  City . 180 

'    RECAPITULATION. 

From  Fort  Leavenworth  to  Lassen's  Meadows 1,584 

P>om  Lassen's  Meadows  to  Rogue  River  Valley,  or  to  Yreka.     310 

From  Yreka  to  Shasta  City 122 

From  Shasta  City  to  Sacramento  City 180 

Total  distance  from  Leavenworth  to  Sacramento,  via  Yreka  . . .  2,226 


ITINERARY  OF  THE  WAGOX  ROAD  FROM  DENVER  CITY,  AT  THE  MOUTH  OF 
CHERRY  CREEK  ON  THE  SOUTH  I'LATTE,  TO  FORT  BRIDGER,  UTAH. 

Knia 

From  Denver  City  to  Vasques  Fork 5 

Good  road  and  line  camp. 

From  Vasqucz  Fork  to  Thompson's  Fork I91 

The  roail  crosses  three  creeks,  about  five  miles  apart,  and  is 
good.  There  is  plenty  of  water  and  grass  at  camp,  but  very 
little  wood. 

From  Thom|>son's  Fork  to  Bent's  Fork 16A 

The  road  ero>ses  two  streams,  about  live  miles  apart.  There 
is  no  wood  on  the  lirst  one.     Good  camp. 

From  Rent's  Fork  to  a  Creek 10 

Good  camp  and  good  road. 

BVom  that  Stream  to  another  one 13 

The  road  is  good,  and  here  is  an  excellent  camp. 

To  Catche  la  Rondre  River 3 

Tiie  Ca<!ho  la  Roudro  river  is  a  fine  large  stream,  whicli  comes 
out  of  the  canon  near  the  road,  and  is  dillicult  to  cross  when 
liigh  ;  its  bottom  is  hard  and  good.  Good  camping  along  this 
rivor,  with  abundance  of  wood,  water,  and  grass. 

From  Cache  la  Roudro  River  to  Reaver  Creek 10 

The  road  turns  to  the  left  and  strikes  into  the  hills,  ascending 
gradually  between  blutls,  and  is  very  good  in  dry  weather.  A 
good  camp  here. 


i  • 

^3  ■ 

I 

Nili 


4 


■ '' 


1 1 


168 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


From  l?cnvcr  Crock  (o  Small  linmrli 19 

The  road  cros^os  l?cavar  crvok  Ihrco  linios,  with  many  good 
caiiipiiifr  i»1mcos.  'I'lie  road  is  somewhat  liilly,  Imt  is  not  very 
rough,  and  passes  for  some  distance  throngh  ii  timhcrcd  region. 
Elk  aii<l  moimfain  sheep  are  })lcnty  ah)ng  here,  and  llicre  are 
some  few  antelope.  Tlie  camp  is  near  the  summit  of  the 
divide;  the  <co<l  is  rather  poor  in  this  vicinity. 

Fron)  Small  l?raneh  (o  'IVihiitary  of  Laramie 17 J 

Tiie  road  is  good  on  the  divide  ;  plenty  of  grass  and  water,  but 
not  much  wood. 

To  another  'I'lihutary  of  Laramie  Kiver 18 J 

The  ro.'id  crosses  l.aramie  river  ahont  three  miles  this  side  of 
last  cami).      Tiiere  is  good  camping  ground  liere. 

To  Small  Creek 14 

Here  is  u  tok'rahle  camp. 

To  anotlier  Tril)ulary  of  Laramie  River 7 

Here  is  a  very  frood  camp.  Tliis  is  sometimes  called  the  West 
fork  (if  riMriiuiie  liver.  Here  another  road  comes  in  from  the 
Laramie  crossing  of  the  South  I'latle. 

To  Sulphur  Spring  Creek 12 

Two  miles  hefore  reaching  this  creek  the  road  forks  ;  one  going 
north  of  the  Medicine  Bow  butle,  and  the  other  south  of  it; 
the  north  one  is  the  best. 

To  MiHlicine  How  lii vcr 5 

A  good  camping  phico. 

To  Prairie  Creek 17| 

A  good  camping  ground.  Some  parts  of  the  road  are  veiy 
rough  ;  it  crosses  several  small  creeks  which  are  good  cam[)ing 
places.     This  is  a  pood  game  country  along  here. 

To  Forks  of  Road ^ 

Take  the  leit  as  it  is  much  the  best. 

To  North  Fork  of  Platte  River 4J 

A  very  good  camping  place,  with  plenty  of  eottonwood  timber. 
The  road  crosses  the  river  here;  the  crossing  is  good,  except 
when  it  is  high  ;  it  is  then  very  ra})i(l  and  dangerous. 

To  Clear  Cnvk 12| 

No  wood,  but  large  brush  and  grass  is  scarce. 

To  Pond  of  IMilky  Water 13 

The  roa<l  leaves  the  trail  to  Rridger's  Pass,  and  bears  to  the 
right,  and  passes  over  a  smooth  country,  covered  with  sage,  and 
poorly  wutered. 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


169 


ni  TT  r^         .  MILES. 

lo  a  y  ine  Spring  on  tlie  Left  of  the  Road 8 

Tliis  camp  affords  plenty  of  good  wood,  water,  and' grass. 

To  Dry  Creek 2 

Grass  here,  and  water  except  in  a  dry  time. 

To  Muddy  Creek jq^ 

The  road  leaves  the  old  Cherokee  trail  at  Dry  creek  and  bears        ^ 
to  the  loft.     This  is  good  camp  for  a  few  animals  ;  the  cros.s. 
mg  is  very  bad. 

To  Hrackish  Spring j^i 

Very  puur  water,  and  very  little  grass.  •      •  •      '  2 

To  a  Lake i 

I'ri'tty  good  feed  on  tlie  hills.  The  road  can  be  shortened  by 
bearing  to  the  left  and  keeping  aU.ng  the  ed<ie  of  the  hills  for 
about  six  miles  before  reaching  the  lake.  The  old  trail  comes 
m  near  the  lake.  11iis  road  is  nearly  thirty  miles  nearer  than 
the  old  one. 

To  Red  Lakes 241 

Tlie  road  is  good,  but  it  crosses  a  dcf^ert,  miserable  country. 
1'he  water  on  those  lakes  is  very  bad,  but  it  is  bettor  than  none. 
I  think  Ihoy  probably  go  dry  in  the  latter  part  of  the  summer. 
There  is  some  grass  here. 

To  Seminoes  Spring 22 

After  you  leave  the  flats  around  Red  lakes  you  have  a  good 
level  road  to  the  spring,  where  there  is  a  good  camp. 

To  IJitter  Creek 12i 

New  road  to  the  left,  cutting  off  ten  or  twelve  miles.  There 
is  a  gooil  camp  here,  for  although  the  water  is  a  little  .'alt,  it 
can  be  used. 

To  Sulphur  Spring 25 

The  road  follows  down  Bitter  creek,  and  is  nearly  destitute  of 
grass  until  you  reach  this  point.  There  is  some  grass  in  the 
hills  across  the  creek  from  the  s[)ring. 

To  Crossing  of  Green  River 17 

The  road  leaves  Bitter  creek  at  Sulphur  spring  and  passes 
near  some  high  bluffs,  where  there  are  some  springs  and  very 
good  f(>ed.  There  is  a  good  camp  at  Green  river,  A'ith  plenty 
of  wood  and  grass. 

To  First  Crossijig  of  Black's  Fork l.'jj 

The  road  rutis  up  Rabl)it  hollow  whore  you  leave  Green 
river,  and  is  steep  and  sandy ;  it  then  passes  over  rolling 
prairie  to  Black's  fork.  Some  bunch-grass  on  the  hills,  and 
u  very  good  camp  at  the  crossing. 


fi  • 


170 


MON'i'ANA     AS     IT      18. 


;  ^ 


till! 


-  r 


m 


To  Seiond  Crossing  and  Fort  Laramie  Roatl 

Good  road  over  a  rolling  country,  with  occasional  patches  of 
?ago.     (iood  camps  along  the  creek  at  second  crossing. 

To  Ham's  Fork  Bridge 5^ 

Good  road  and  good  camps  up  and  down  the  creek.  Free 
hridge. 

To  Third  Crossing  of  Black's  Fork $ 

Koud  crosses  a  high  ridge.  The  ford  is  good  except  when 
the  creek  is  high,  when  it  is  best  to  take  a  road  which  goes 
up  the  right  bank,  and  avoids  all  the  crossings. 

To  Fourth  Crossing  of  Black's  Fork 14^ 

Good  road,  tine  camps,  good  wood,  water,  and  grass. 

To  Fifth  Crossing  of  Black's  Fork 2f 

Good  road  and  a  good  camp. 

To  Smith's  Fork 2f 

Good  road  but  very  little  grass. 

To  Fort  Bridgcr 11^ 

Good  road  and  good  camps  near  by.  

Total  distance  from  Denver  to  Fort  Bridger 426 


-I  t 


ITINERAIIY    OF   THE   ROUTE    FROM    ST.    PAUL,     MINNESOTA,    TO     FORT   WALLA 

WALLA,  IN  WASHINGTON  TERKITORY. 

T'lial 
Dist.  liDm 
St.  Paul.  Mii-KS. 

Fiom  St.  Paul  to  Small  Brook 17^ 

Wood,  water,  and  grass,  are  abundant,  as  far  as  the 
''  Bois  de  KSioux"  river. 

37^  From  Small  Brook  to  Cow  Creek 20^ 

This  stream  is  crossed  on  a  bridge. 

GO  J  From  Cow  Creek  to  Small  Lake,  North  of  the  Road 23^^ 

The  road  passos  over  a  rolling  prairie,  and  crosses  Elk 
river  on  a  bridge. 

77^  From  Small  L.ko  to  near  Sauk  Rapids 1*" 

The  road  cro.s.-es  Elk  river  twice  on  bridges,     Missis- 
sippi I'iver  is  near. 

no  I     From  near  Sauk  Rapids  to  "  Russell's" 18 

Ferry  acro.^s  the  Missis.sippi  river,  then  follow   the  Rod 
River  trail ;  camp  is  on  a  cold-spring  branch. 


;? 
T 


MONTANAASITIS.  lyj 

Mn,l!8. 

101 1     To  another  Spring  Branch  .... 

Before  reaching  this  camp  you  cross  sVuk  ;i'v;;;one  'hur  -      ' 
drecl  yards  wide  and  four  and  a  half  feet  deep. 

12 1 1     From  Spring  Branch  to  Lake  Henry . .  in. 

(jood  camp  and  good  road.  2 

HO       From  Lake  Henry  to  Lightning  Lake  133 

^er'dS'"'''  '^'''''  '"  ''  ^"'"^  '''''^'  '^''^'''  ^^"''  '^'^''^'  "  ^'       ^ 

lo7|     To  a  Lake    ^^ 

One  mile  from  Eed  River  trail  pass  White"  Bear  lake." "  * 

1G7       To  Pike  Lake ^^^ 

Pass  the  south  branch   of  ti.e"c"hippevvay"  ri*v"er ";  "r'oad        ^ 
runs  over  rolling  prairie  and  crosses  a  small  branch. 

18G^     To  Small  Lake ^r)i 

Cross  Chippeway  river  in  a  boat."  "Koad"  passes 'many 
small  lakes  and  the  grass  is  excellent. 

196       To  another  Small  Lake 93 

Koad  passes  over    rolling    prairies  and  'crosses'  'liabbi't 
river. 

223       To  "  15ois  do  Sioux"  Kivor 27 

Koad  (grosses  "  Bois  do  Sioux"  prairie," rdiing*."o"mitry." 

234       To  Wild  Rice  Kiver 1^ 

Koad  crosses  "  Bois  de  Sioux"  river,"  seven tyVeet  "wide 
and  from  four  to  seven  feet  deep,  with  muddy  bottom  and 
banks.  Wood,  water,  and  grass,  at  all  camps  between 
here  and  Maple  river. 

2381     To  Small  Creek 4, 

Road  crosses  Wild  Rice  river  on  a  bridge.    

2Go       To  Cheyenne  River op  i 

Smooth  prairie  country.  

281^     To  Maple  Kiver Iq. 

(^rosH  Cheyenne  river  on  a  bridge,  aud  several  branches". 

301 J     'I'o  Small  Creek 20 

Good  road  ;  no  wood. 

321^     To  Pond   20 

Wet  and  marshy,  many  ponds  in  sight  no  wood. 

33G1     To  Pond I5 

Approaching  Cheyenne  river.     No  wood. 


I  !' 


172 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


4 

w 


f:-, 


^^-i' 


I     •  -M 


Miles. 

350 


357 


3G7 


3771 


39 


^a 


415| 


437J 
469 


4851 


503^ 


5194 


534i 


To  Clievenne  River 13i 

Prairie  more  roHinjT.  Camp  in  the  river  bottom. 
I'ltiily  of  wood,  water,  and  grass. 

To  Slough 7 

JJoad  crosses  Clieycnne,  river,  fifty  feet  wide  and  three 
and  a  half  feet  deep.      No  wood. 

To  a  Lake 10 

KoUiii;!  prairie,  with  many  marshes.  Wood,  water, 
and  grass. 

To  I»ond 10^ 

Low  wet  prairie,  with  plenty  of  water  and  grass,  but 
no  wood. 

To  ^Iar?h \S\ 

Smooth  prairie,  generally  dry. 

To  Riviere  a  Jajrges 20 

Smooth  prairie,  with  marshes.  The  road  crosses  the 
river  several  times.     Wood,  water,  and  grass. 

To  Pond 21^ 

Hilly  and  marshy  prairie,  with  small  ponds  and  no 
wood. 

To  Small  Branch 12 

Marshy  praiiie,  filled  with  ponds,  with  a  thin  short 
grass  and  no  wood. 

To  Lake 19| 

On  a  high  knoll.  Road  crosses  the  south  fork  of  the 
Cheyenne ;  good  crossing.  Thence  rolling  prairie, 
passing  "  Butte  dc  Morale,"  also  a  narrow  lake  four 
and  a  half  miles  long. 

To  Pond 16| 

Marshy  prairie,  ponds,  and  knolls.  Cross  a  small  lake 
at  seven  and  three  quarter  miles.     No  wood. 

To  I'ond 

Rolling  prairie.  Cross  Wintering  river,  a  deep  muddy 
stream,  one  hundred  feet  wide  ;  also  muddy  prairies 
and  ponds.      No  wood. 

To  Small  Stream 16 

A  tributary  of  INIouse  river.  The  road  skirts  the  val- 
ley of  Mouse  river,  crossing  tlie  ravine  near  their 
heads. 

To  Pond 154 

Undulating   prairie,  with  occasional  marshes.      The 


171 


MONTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


173 


wasa. 


554| 


574| 


5004 


6091 


632| 


G'-iGk 


6704 

692| 

699 
705 
720^ 


7301 


741i 


MILES. 

road  tlien  turns  up  the  hijili  ridge  called  tlie  «  Grand 
Coteau,"  wliic'li  is  the  dividing  ridge  between  the  Mis- 
siissfippi  and  Miifsouii,  and  between  Ked  river  of  the 
Nortii  and  the  latter.     No  wood. 

T«  T^-ake 201 

lldly  road  approaching  "  Grand  Coteau."     No  wood. 

To  Lake 20 

Rolling  prairie  ;  smooth,  good  road  ;  no  wood. 

To  Pond 151 

Road   passes  "Grand  Coteau"   at  eleven  miles,   and       ^ 
runs    between   two    lakes.     No   wood,   but  plenty   of 
"  bois  de  vache,"  or  l)utfalo  chips,  for  fuel. 

To  Uranch  of  White  Earth  River 191 

Country  rolling   and   hilly.      The   road   passes   wood 
eight  miles  from  camp. 

To  Vond 231 

For  two  miles  the  road  passes  over  a  low,  flat  country, 
after  whieh  the  country  is  hilly.     No  wood. 

To  l*ond 231 

Rolling    and    hilly    country,    with   rocky    knobs;     at        ^ 
eigliteen   miles  cross   branch   of  Muddy   creek,  fifteen 
feet  wide.     Wood  in  various  places  near  this  stream. 
No  wood  at  camp. 

To  Pond 20 

Rolling  coinitry  ;  at  eleven  miles  there  is  water  in  a 
ravine.  To  the  left  is  more  water,  but  the  country  is 
rough.     No  wood. 

To  Fort  Union,  on  the  Missouri  River IGi 

Ro.id  passes  over  lut:h,  linn  prairie,  and  descends  a 
hill  to  the  fort.     Good  grass  near  in  the  hills. 

To  Pond gl 

Good  grass,  but  no  wood. 

To  Little  Muddy  River 6 

Good  camp. 

To  a  Creek I51 

Wood,  water,  and  grass  ;  two  good  camps  between 
this  camp  and  the  last. 

To  Big  Muddy  River IQ 

Drift  wood  for  fuel. 

To  Majsh,  near  the  Missouri  River 11 

Good  camp. 


174 


MOiJTANA     AS     IT     IS. 


1IILB8. 


4 


IDLES. 

759^     To  Poplar  River 18 

Good  camp.      One  or  two  good  camps  between  this 
and  last  camp. 

783       To  Creek  near  JNIissouri  River 23  J 

Good  camp. 

798       To  Slough  near  the  Missouri 15 

Good  camp. 

8151     To  Milk  River ...    17| 

One  good  camp  passed. 

829       To  Milk  River m 

Several  good  camps  passed. 

84Gi     To  Milk  River 17^ 

G :  )d  canip. 

8G()       To  Milk  River 19J 

Several  good  cumps  passed. 

883|     To  Milk  IJivor,  at  the  Crossing 17| 

The  road  Inllows  a  trail  on  the  bluffs,  and  descends  to 
the  river  again. 

891 J     To  a  Lake 7^ 

No  wood  ;  grass  and  water  plenty. 

903|     To  INIiik  River,  Second  Crossing 12^ 

(iood  camp. 

915|     To  Milk  Hivor 12 

G(Jod  cr.nip. 

921 J    To  Milk  Riv... 15J 

Good  cnraps  along  here. 

932      T(  Milk  Jlivcf lOf 

viood    !;!inip, 

952      T(  Milk  K'.v^r 20 

tiood  camp. 

9G8       'I  o  Milk  Hiver 10 

Good  camp. 

980       To  Rulk  Riv.i,  at  the  Third  Crossing 18 

Gocd  camp. 

993  J     To  Rrat."h  of  Milk  River 7 J 

Good  Ctjmp. 

1011     To  Jiranoh  of  K'Ak  River 17^ 

Several  good  camj)«  betweon  this  and  laai  "amps. 

1019     IJninch  ..f  Milk  River 6 

Good  camp. 


MONTANA     AS     IT     I 


175 


HILES 

1038^  To  Prairie  Spring joi 

No  wood  ;  water  and  grass  plenty. 
1052     To  Teton  Kivor jg. 

An  excellent  camp-road  crosses  Marias  river.  " 

lOGO^  To  Teton  l^iver,  near  Fort  Benton gs 

Good  camp.  This  is  one  of  the  American  Fur  Com-  * 
pany's  po.4s,  and  never  was  a  II.  S.  fort.  It  is  on  the 
Missouri  river,  abont  tliirty  miles  below  the  (Jreat 
Falls.  Lienteiiant  Mullan,  U.  S.  A.,  constructed  a 
military  road  from  tl  :-,  point  to  Walla  Walla,  and 
itniorarios  of  the  route  may  he  ha4  at  Fort  Ikniton,  but 
at  this  time  it  is  not  nf?<'essary  to  have  one,  as  there  are 
settlers  at  short  distances  along  th,;  entire  route.  The 
distance  is  six  hundred  and  eighteen  miles,  and  the 
road  piisses  tln-ough  some  of  the  most  beautilul  valleys 
the  sun  ever  shone  upon,  and  which  are  capable  of  sus- 
taining a  very  dense  population,  and  are  known  to  be 
rich  ill  minerals  of  all  kin  Js. 


KKCAriTULA'llON. 


Total  distance  from  St.  Paul  to  Fort  Henton 1003 

Total  liistance  fium  Fort  15eiiton  to  VVaUa  Walla.  .  .  .  .  .    (118 

Total  disiancc  from  St.  Paul  to  Walla  Wadti 1C81 


Km 


